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#175758 T U "secret-sander" Giftxchange 2011

Posted by redg8r on 03 December 2011 - 01:18 PM

Miss out on the last lure swap or looking to add to your custom tackle collection?

Spread a little holiday cheer by joining our "Secret Sander" tackle exchange!

Attached File  tu_sec_sandr_2011.png   11.14KB   9 downloads

Works like most "Secret Santa" exchanges, All US residents are welcome to participate. (Due only to timing issues and being late in the season) If successful, we will plan one worldwide earlier for next year.

How it works:

All participants will randomly receive the name and address of another participant to make for. Participants aren't paired or reciprocal, they will simply be chosen at random. You will not know who is making for you and vice versa.
The recipient won't have a clue who you are unless you elect to tell them, you have the option of remaining anonymous by not leaving a name on the package.

General rules:

  • Must be functioning (usable) fishing tackle, made by yourself or your outfit.
  • Must be US resident.
  • Must be able to ship via USPS priority mail which includes free delivery confirmation.
  • If you CANNOT ship by the posted deadline simply DO NOT sign up.
  • Try and adhere to a fair market value of $10-$15 product total. Going over is fine if you're feeling generous.
How to participate:
  • FIRST Check the following link & make sure your postal address is available and updated in our system. We will pass your postal address to, and only to, the one member randomly chosen as your "Sander", otherwise your complete postal address remains hidden to the public as usual.
  • After your postal info is available "Like" this post, to sign up. The "Like" button is located lower-right of this post. We will use this as our list of participating members.
  • After cutoff, you will be privately assigned another random participating member to make for.
  • Make and mail your gift before the postal deadline.
  • Await your gift to arrive shortly after Christmas!
The most important thing is to follow through with your gift. It only works if everyone sends something and gets something in return.

Signup's are open from now until Sat. Dec. 17th. After which you will receive your addressee via PM.
Merry Christmas Everyone!

Jerry "redg8r"
p.s. I know the name "secret sander" is corny, feel free to pass along a funnier name if you come up w/ one :)
  • Lincoya, Coley, Richard Prager and 14 others like this

#4987 [SITE RULES] You MUST Read Before Posting.

Posted by redg8r on 30 September 2003 - 09:57 PM

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Last Update: 12/24/13

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  • dog1660, mcdawg, alexD12CAD and 7 others like this

#233506 Why Pvc?

Posted by mark poulson on 19 February 2015 - 11:08 AM

At Rowhunter's suggestion, I'm starting a PVC thread.

I use it for all my lure building, for the following reasons:


It is totally waterproof, so I can shape a lure, and then test float and ballast it without any sealing.  I have a 3 gallon bucket of water in my driveway that I use for test floating.  


It is buoyant.  The Azek PVC decking is as buoyant as poplar, a hardwood I used to build my  jointed swimbaits from.

The Azek trimboard is even more buoyant, like medium density balsa.  I can make really active shallow cranks with it.


It is strong.  The decking is as strong as any wood, for lure building, and the trimboard, although not as dense, is still plenty strong enough for any crank.  And I use it for my smaller two piece jointed lures, too.  I caught a 7lb largemouth with a PVC trimboard

spybait I made that was 4" long, but only 7/16" thick, and I had drilled several 3/16" holes up from the belly for my ballast.  She ate the rear hook, and the bait held up fine.

Both are strong enough to hold screw eyes with just a small pilot hole.  No need for any reinforcement, or setting into holes filled with epoxy.

I usually use the gap filling/brush on super glue alone to set my hardware, and a lot times my bills, too.  I use the accelerant (thank you Ben) dripped onto the glue to help it set quickly, once things are positioned.


It machines and carves well.  Although the sanding dust is nasty, because it sticks to everything, including my sinuses, PVC is easily machined and shaped with the same tools I used for wood.  

As with any work, sharp tools work best.

I cut out my bait profile, and lip slot, with a bandsaw, and try to drill any ballast hole while the bait has the flat sides, so I can drill straight holes with my drill press.

I use an oscillating belt sander with an 80 grit belt to do my major shaping, working from a centerline I put on the bait after I've sanded the bandsaw marks off.

I "carve" details with a dremel sanding drum, and drill out my eyes with a multi-spur bit on a drill press.

I typically sand down from 80 grit to 120 grit with a vibrator sander, and finish up with a small piece of sandpaper to get edges and details softened.

Because it has no direction-oriented grain, it carves really well with sharp tool.

It can be laminated into bigger lure blanks using the same PVC glue plumbers use for PVC pipe, or you can use super glue.  If you use both the PVC primer and the glue, the two pieces actually melt into one solid piece. 

As long as the two surfaces are flat and mate, you're good to go.


It paints well.  I can shoot Wicked White as a base coat onto a raw PVC bait, heat set it, and never have any separation problems with my paint schemes.  When I've had occasion to remove some paint to modify a bait, I've had to sand down to the PVC to get the paint off.  It never peels.

Occasionally, heat setting too hot can cause trapped air to bubble up under the seal coat, so I generally seal baits by rubbing crazy glue, or thinned epoxy, over them before I paint, if I want a super smooth bait.  But any bubbles that do appear can be popped by the sharp tip of an exacto knife, and they lay right back down when I press them with my exacto knife handle.  I've never had any baits with popped bubbles fail.

And, because it is totally waterproof, I don't have to worry about nicks and scuffs from rocks and hooks.  


Any top coat works.  I've used epoxies, urethanes, and concrete sealers, with no problems.


In short, it make lure building faster and easier, and that make it even more fun, so why I use it.

  • Rowhunter, JBlaze, bassguy and 7 others like this

#238514 Custom Baits Magazine, An E-Magazine

Posted by fatfingers on 30 May 2015 - 12:56 AM

Here is my take on this topic...

I was approached by the gentleman who started this magazine. He was respectful and offered me the chance to showcase my baits in his online magazine. The offer was at no charge to me and he asked for nothing but photos...as many as I wanted to submit.

Although I have not contributed as of yet, I saw nothing but an honest earnest offer to participate in his venture. I am currently busy with other matters but I may participate later just for fun. Why not? I enjoy building and I get a kick out of sharing my efforts...don't we all? Isn't that why the gallery here has no shortage of contributions?

I think that like any new venture, he will probably have some growing pains and that's okay with me. As is often the case with any new idea or venture, the mission may change as time goes on and perhaps will have more for everyone later.

I wish him all the best as he tries to get his venture off the ground. I hope he succeeds and I hope at some point he profits from his desire to showcase custom lures for everyone to enjoy.

We all enjoy looking at baits and on a blog that I started on another website, I have also tried to showcase what I consider to be some of the finest bait builders from all over the world. People seem to enjoy that and this fellow is simply trying to do the same, from what I've seen.

I see absolutely no reason to wish him anything but the best of luck as he tries to do something that he feels has a certain value for all to enjoy.
  • Salty's, Richard Prager, Vodkaman and 6 others like this

#235627 New Guy On The Site

Posted by mark poulson on 28 March 2015 - 10:07 AM

Be forewarned!  

If coffee had been created on the first day, it would have only take four days to create the world.

If bass fishing and lure making had been created on the first day, the rest of the world would never have been finished.

  • Vodkaman, barr5150, Uncle Jay and 4 others like this

#230996 Just Thinking...

Posted by mark poulson on 13 January 2015 - 03:59 PM

After I burned down my garage the second time, because I saw how far I had to go to even come close to his paint jobs, my homeowner's insurance won't allow me to look at Tim Hughes' baits any more.

  • jwfflipper, Vodkaman, bassguy and 4 others like this

#185055 The Beginning Of Hand Poured Fishing Worms!

Posted by jeff@mf on 17 April 2012 - 05:05 PM

These are promos from M-F few years after they started out, I was only 5 years old calling (M-F) where my mom worked that my brother was picking on me and now I've worked here over 15 years. Thought I would share this with you guys, see if you can see the prices back then: 1974 jeff@mf

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  • redg8r, mickeyg, softworm and 4 others like this

#244512 2015 Coolest Lure Contest Winners!

Posted by Vodkaman on 15 October 2015 - 09:28 PM

R&L - you would have been better off not posting. So I am going to take my own advice and not spoil this thread with any more sour words.


Congratulations and well done to all the winners.



  • Richard Prager, Bogbaits, RayburnGuy and 3 others like this

#244415 Scale Pattern Idea

Posted by jrhopkins on 13 October 2015 - 09:32 PM

was having trouble finding the size of mesh for my smaller baits and it occurred to me to try the tissue printing technique for scales. googled fish scale patterns, found the size I wanted, printed on the tissue paper and glued it to the bait. turned out good. will have to see how it looks once I finish the paint job ( perch).

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  • Richard Prager, mark poulson, goolies and 3 others like this

#242773 Molds For Pvc Lures

Posted by mark poulson on 08 September 2015 - 10:21 PM

Being able to hand carve a lure gives you the ability to experiment.  By using PVC, waterbased airbrush paints, and UV cured resin, you can conceive, shape, ballast, test, paint, topcoat, and fish a lure in one day.

I think molding is for when you've got one that really works well, and want to go into production.

For some, it's the destination.  For others, it's the journey.

  • Munkin, Vodkaman, RayburnGuy and 3 others like this

#236553 Lip Size Vs Depth

Posted by Vodkaman on 15 April 2015 - 09:57 AM

RW - do not concern yourself about the questions. Even if the question has been asked before, it serves a purpose to re-address a question and see if any new ideas come to surface.

This is a very interesting question and was actually one of my pet projects in my early days of TU, when I attempted to write a spreadsheet for designing lures; were you enter in all your parameters and the sheet would tell you if the lure was stable or not, how deep it would swim, how wide the wobble would be and how fast it would wobble.

Everyone warned me that it was impossible, but that only encourages me. Actually some things are possible to predict mathematically, but there are so many variables that have to be taken into account. At the time, my limited knowledge was holding me back, but as my knowledge from testing improved, I found that I did not need a spreadsheet to tell me how a lure would swim, I could just tell.

Predicting the depth is one of those difficult features. This is because there is a lot more to it than the length, shape and angle of the lip. The most important variable in determining the swim depth is the tow eye position.

But, there is even more to it than this; the length, width, shape and curvature of the back of the lure has an effect. The length of the active edge of the lip, combined with the length, width and shape, all these features have an effect.

So, certainly predicting a swim depth with simple spreadsheet maths is not possible.

What you can do, is learn what affect each feature has on the depth of the lure. Think about how a lure achieves depth in the first place. Understanding these details is what experience is all about.

Here is an example:

A deep diver design, long lip, shallow angle with tow eye on the lip. There is an ideal position for the eye for maximum depth. Move the eye forward and the lure swims shallower, move the eye further back and the lure swims shallower.

Analogy - firing a cannon ball. There is an optimum firing angle. Fire too low an angle, distance shortens, fire too steep, distance shortens.

Back to the lure; The eye position is a balance of all the features that I mentioned above. This means that I can alter the swim depth by altering any of those features. Let's say you have a lure that has the perfect balance, then obviously altering anything is going to make the lure swim shallower, but what we can do is think of the change in terms of the tow eye position. Starting off with an easy one:

Shorten the lip length - effectively eye position moves forwards. Swim angle reduces, bait swims shallower.
Lengthen lip length - eye position moves rearwards. Swim angle increases, nose down, but bait swims shallower with a harder thump.
Narrower lip - eye forwards.
Wider lip - eye rearwards.
Thicker lip - eye forwards.
Thinner lip - eye rearwards.
longer body - eye forwards.
shorter body - eye rearwards.
Fatter body - eye forwards.
Thinner body - eye rearwards.
Rounder body - eye forwards.
flatter body - eye rearwards.

This should be enough to get you thinking about the design.


  • mark poulson, Seeking 56, RayburnGuy and 3 others like this

#235596 Are All Blank Crankbaits The Same?

Posted by DingerBaits on 27 March 2015 - 10:51 PM

As a supplier of blanks, I can't say anything bad about any of the guys that sell unpainted cranks as I have ordered from just about all of them and have had great experiences. The only suggestion I can give is don't go through wLure. All of their baits are KO's of KO's and the quality isn't there. You really can't go wrong with ordering from any of the guys on here. 

  • jwfflipper, Richard Prager, mark poulson and 3 others like this

#231039 Just Thinking...

Posted by Skeeter on 14 January 2015 - 02:07 PM

I believe that color does matter. I have been throwing crankbaits hard since 1998 and I feel that I have proved that to myself. However, that is just my opinion.


As far as paint jobs are concerned….. that is just the fisherman’s decision. So many fish have been caught and so much money has been won off of simple paint schemes (Homer, Dolphin, Carp, Black/White, Black/Yellow) that I feel super HD paint jobs are not necessary. HOWEVER, I do look at these beautiful lures as a work of art. It is complicated and takes a lot of talent to create these beautiful objects. I appreciate the effort and talent of those that make them. To me it is what separates those that just want to make and/or paint a bait to use or those that are truly passionate about the craft. I have bought some of these baits for my personal collection. I just appreciate the exceptional skill and craftsmanship of others.  


I have said forever that if you are going to make well made crankbaits you have to “love the craft”. You have to be totally ate up with making the best crankbait that your two hands can possibly make. To me, this means going the extra mile to develop your skills and knowledge. You have to be willing to make countless mistakes to develop your personal talents.


I constantly push myself to reach a higher plane than any other bait maker.  I am willing to make the mistakes and put up with the failures to make the finest crankbaits that God and my two hands will allow. And I doubt that many people have spent the time studying crankbaits in a pool as much as I have. I don’t care about how much time it takes, how much money it costs, how many I can make at a time or how much money I can make. I just want to make the best. In other words…..I don’t care about the money…. I want the name.


I don’t judge my work by showing my lures to fishermen. I just watch the reactions of other bait makers when they see one of my crankbaits. Bait makers know how much work it takes to make them. Therefore, it is their reaction to my work that I want to see. When I hand a fellow craftsman one of my baits and I see their eyes widen in the first two seconds of seeing the lure then I know I have done good work on the appearance. If the bait knocks their socks off then they have to react, they don’t have to say a thing. However, that does not necessarily mean that the lure is any good. If I sell a lure to someone, and they come back for another, then I know that they are catching fish with it. For me that is enough proof that my work is acceptable.


But when it really comes down to it, I am the best judge of my work. If I am happy with the way a lure looks and performs then I am satisfied for the moment. I set my own standards very high and I know that I am my toughest critic. I don’t lie to myself. I don’t need the approval of someone else. I know in my guts that a particular bait is the best that I can create.  But….. we all have to do a little “showboating” now and then.


There are two quotes that I have always remembered and believed in.


Rick Clunn : “A lure is nothing more than a tool” to get the job done.

Bill Dance: “The number one lure in every fisherman’s tackle box is confidence.”


I feel that if we believe that we have the right tool and have the confidence to fish it properly, the only thing left is to find the right fish to present it to. I think that this is the number one factor that most of us fail at. So this year, that is what I will be working on.



  • jwfflipper, sonoman, RayburnGuy and 3 others like this

#172560 How To Build A Vacuum Former

Posted by Coley on 30 September 2011 - 04:23 PM

You will need a small hot plate, you can get this at wally world or other store.Attached File  DSCF0537.JPG   352.49KB   289 downloads

Enough 1"x 6" x 3/4" to build a 12" OD square frame.Attached File  DSCF0537.JPG   352.49KB   289 downloads
We are going to use a shop vac for our suction.

One 1" x 6" x 4' piece of pine lumber
One 1" x 4" x 4' piece of pine lumber
Four 3/8" x 2" flat angle braces
16, 1/8" x 1/8" Plaster of Paris rivets with back up washers.
One piece of thin scrap wood, plastic or other type of material 10" x 10"
One piece of what is called punch plate for vacuum bed top, 10" x 10"
Some silicone caulk, some tape, (I used alum. tape) 16 dry wall screws 1 1/2" long

OK, lets get started by building a 12" x 12" box for the hot plate to set in.

Using the 1" x 6" lumber cut 2 pieces 12" long and 2 pieces 10 1/2" long.
Cut a small notch in one of the boards for the hot plate cord to come through
this will become the bottom of the box.
This box is screwed together with the dry wall screws. Screw the 12" pieces
to the 10 1/2" pieces.Attached File  DSCF0539.JPG   283.46KB   112 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0541.JPG   259.49KB   124 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0547.JPG   193.95KB   111 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0548.JPG   242.14KB   134 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0550.JPG   209.06KB   154 downloads

Now lets build the vacuum bed.
Using the 1" x 4" piece of lumber, cut 2 pieces 10" long and 2 pieces 8 1/2" long.
and screw the 10" pieces to the 8 1/2" pieces using the dry wall screws.
Before screwing the last piece on use a hole saw to cut a hole in it that will fit your
shop vac.Attached File  DSCF0542.JPG   231.75KB   161 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0554.JPG   216.33KB   142 downloads
The bottom of this hole should be about 3/8" from the bottom of the box we are building.Attached File  DSCF0554.JPG   216.33KB   142 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0555.JPG   205.56KB   162 downloads
We are also going to tape the 10" x 10" piece of whatever you use on the bottom of the box.
We will then caulk the seams inside the box.Attached File  DSCF0556.JPG   239.24KB   213 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0557.JPG   228.61KB   230 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0559.JPG   195.03KB   273 downloads
Now tape the punch plate on top of the box. We now have our vacuum bed.Attached File  DSCF0564.JPG   257.55KB   287 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0561.JPG   279.21KB   301 downloads
Now we need to build an angle iron frame with a 10 1/2" inside dia.and a 12" outside dia.
I think the pictures will explain this. The frame will match the 12" box perfect and slip down over the 10" box.Attached File  DSCF0566.JPG   267.19KB   256 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0567.JPG   170.74KB   275 downloads
Use the 3/8" x 2" flat angle braces on each corner, attach with the Plaster of Paris rivets and washers.Attached File  DSCF0572.JPG   281.11KB   286 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0573.JPG   212.33KB   339 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0575.JPG   321.16KB   438 downloads
Add a couple handles from a piece of dowel.
This completes the construction process

Now to use this, cut your plastic to form 12" x 12" and attach to the alum frame with the binder clips.Attached File  DSCF0578.JPG   244.43KB   660 downloads
Place your models on the punch plate, I use baits cut in half, and get a good right and left side.
Set the temp on hot plate about theree fourths of the way, not on high.
I have had not a fire but, i guess you could if it got too hot.
Place the plastic in the frame over the hot plate and start the shop vac.
The plastic will sag at first then tighten up then sag again, it is time to place it over the vacuum bed.Attached File  DSCF0582.JPG   258.04KB   819 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0583.JPG   210.48KB   842 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0586.JPG   282.79KB   740 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0587.JPG   260.75KB   669 downloads

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#250173 Overview Of Ultra Molds Mini Shooting Star. Long Read

Posted by taylor1595 on 24 January 2016 - 10:54 PM

Let me preface this little write up by saying I'm in no way affiliated with Ultra Molds and haven't been and won't be compensated for this post.  The reason for doing this is that I know there is interest in this product but there is very little hands on info about it and I would have loved to have someone shorten the learning curve and give me pointers before I got mine.  Hopefully this will not be removed and thought of as an advertisement because that is not it's purpose at all, it's simply some tips and tricks to help people decide if this system might be for them.  With all that said I wanted to wait after I've had the system a few months and have ran around 300 gallons of plastic through it before I gave my thoughts. 


The system comes with two pots with stirring motors and heaters with digital controls connected by a manifold for dual injecting.  You also need to by the dual injector that has the tips that fit in and turn the valves on each pot and the manifold.  First thing I would recommend is getting the Universal Heater that they sell.  There are a couple of reasons for this.  One reason is that the first thing I do when I walk into the shop is turn on the Universal Heater with my dual injector sitting in it and let it start getting hot.  While it's heating I then can clean the pots out from the residue from the day before and the injector will be up to temp by the time I'm done cleaning and heating the plastic up.  Another reason for the Universal Heater is that I run it's temp up to 325 on the digital control but I run the pots at a different temp. (more on this later)  A couple of other "options" that I opted for and almost didn't and am so glad I did after using the system.  You can get a mounting plate with holes all pre drilled and everything ready to mount it on.  I almost didn't get this but it made it very easy to set up in the shop.  I drilled 4 holes in the stainless bench that I have it on in the shop and mounted the plate with system on it and fastened it with bolts and wing nuts so I can remove it easily if I need the room for something else.  Another thing I almost didn't get and can't imagine using the system without is the locking brackets.  The way Rupert explained these to me is that they designed these for a customer that had a disability and had limited use of one arm so he need to be able to draw the plastic one handed.  The brackets make drawing plastic so much easier that I honestly think if you have a system without them you need to spend the 20 bucks or so and get them.  Instead of having to push in with one hand to seat the injector and pull on the handle and working against yourself and making it easy to suck air the brackets keep the injector firmly seated and you can draw plastic one handed.  Very slick and like I said I would hate using it without it now. 


As far as actually using and running the system it's pretty simple and straight forward once you get the feel of the valves and injector.  Here are some observations and tips from things I've found after running it a few months.


1. I seem to have the best luck with reducing dents, getting good laminates, not discoloring the plastic, if I run the digital controls on each pot set at 300 degrees.  (remember I set my Universal Heater at 325)  I keep my injector sitting in the Universal injector set at 325 the whole time I shoot.  I feel like by keeping the injector on that heater it will stay much much hotter and I have no problems with it plugging up.  It would probably work fine sitting in the middle cradle between the pots, but I feel like it keeps things flowing better when the injector is really hot. 


2.  I heat my plastic in the microwave and then add my coloring, glitter, etc before I put it in the pots.  You can heat from raw to workable temp in the pot, but it's going to take longer and you are going to have to turn the temp up and then back down.  I run on 60 ounce batches and it takes 12-15 minutes to heat 60 ounces of plastic to temp depending on the strength of your microwave.  I put 60 oz in each pot.  If I'm doing single color baits both sides get the same color, for laminates I have one color in each.  the 60 oz comes up to just under the top of the stirring paddles. 


3.  Cleaning is not as bad as I was afraid it was going to be.  All I normally do between colors is after the pots have cooled I peel what plastic I can out including the "puck" at the bottom, then spray the inside with simple green and wipe out with a paper towel.  When I take my plastic out of the microwave I turn on the pot heaters to begin heating the pots.  I don't do this before then because I don't want what is leftover in the channel to the valve and manifold to melt and run back into the pot before I add the new plastic.  After I get the colorant and glitter I dump the plastic in the pots and then I purge the manifold and injector by drawing an inch or so out and shooting it on the table.  Usually doing this 2-3 times and you are rid of the previous color and ready to go. 


I read on here somewhere about blowing the channels out with an air compressor and am going to try that pretty soon as that may reduce the amount of plastic I have to purge. 


Shooting Star vs Presto Pots


I started out trying to run two presto pots with a Basstackle Twinjector setup.  For what I do and my personal preference I can't imagine going back to the prestos.  I feel like I'm much more efficient with the shooting star (even though Frank could still shoot circles around me out of his Prestos, but that doesn't count because he is a machine)

there is no blending block to clean out and your injectors aren't submerged in the hot plastic

The shooting star is a pretty well sealed and contained unit so the smoke is very much reduced.  I still run a vent system, but I couldn't handle the smoke that the presto pots put out. 

There is very little waste when you are done with a batch and I always had a hard time with sucking air when I got close to empty with the prestos.


One thing I will note is that the single injector you can get for the system is kind of difficult to use with the system due to the push/pull thing I talked of earlier and the opening and closing of the valves can unseat the injector tip.  I have found the single injector extremely useful for doing remelts though.  I heat the injector in the universal heater and melt sprues in a big pyrex and just draw from the pyrex with the single injector and wipe it and sit it back on the heater between shots. 


After using it for several months I would say I'm very happy with the system and Rupert was very easy to deal with whenever I had a small issue and went above and beyond to get it resolved.  I also had him build me an air clamp that you can see on the right side of the picture of my setup.  This is a huge time saver as well not having to mess with manual clamps. 


Like I said, this is not meant as an advertisement, but mainly to give info on a fairly new system and to answer questions people might have that are on the fence about it.  If anyone has any other questions I'd be happy to answer as I'm sure I've left something off. 





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  • camrynekai, Vodkaman, mark poulson and 2 others like this

#249862 Solarez

Posted by Jdeee on 16 January 2016 - 07:41 PM

Good thing fish don't carry hammers :drool:

  • mark poulson, RayburnGuy, barr5150 and 2 others like this

#249826 Tally Wacker

Posted by mark poulson on 15 January 2016 - 09:33 PM

I read online that alcohol is bad for you when you're sick, so I'm cutting back on my internet usage until I get better.

  • Vodkaman, RayburnGuy, Musky Glenn and 2 others like this

#249706 Elmers Rubber Cement

Posted by Nathan on 14 January 2016 - 10:20 AM

Good ole Elmers Rubber Cement works great for temporary bill placement... If you have a bait that your not sure what bill to use glue it in with Elmers....I'll take several different bills with me and try them all on the lure. Elmers locks the bill in good enough for testing but then is easily removed when your done plus it peels right off the bill clean so you can reuse the bill...Nathan
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#247579 Wire Benders

Posted by Travis on 10 December 2015 - 08:51 PM

I don't use any special tools per say. I just wrap the wire around a finish nail then grip with vice grips and twist.  I will either cut line tie clean or "barb" it.    For bass lures I mainly use stuff from Ace (few blocks from my house) and I believe it is 19 gauge when I forget to order from McMaster Carr (0.041   302/304 stainless steel safety wire).


It is 19 gauge....








Some of the ties in the red bin have the ends cut clean others left so I can bend one back to make the "barb".

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#245307 2015 Coolest Lure Contest Winners!

Posted by m_vandorn on 02 November 2015 - 05:58 PM

I would like to add a positive note to this discussion.


The really great thing about the business or hobby of lure making is that the possibilities are endless. From my experience and what I’ve read, there will never come a day when every possible lure design has been made and sold. The variables are far too great.

For example, there is freshwater, saltwater and brackish water. Then there is pond fishing, lake fishing, river fishing, creeks, streams, fishing on the beach, in from boats, way out in the ocean and I’m sure I haven’t covered them all. Add on top of that; there are different lures for different types of fish and there are so many types of lures, such as, topwater, crankbaits, soft baits, jigs of all kinds and don’t forget all of the color combination and unique designs, such as what kaimon did with sea shells.


I know the above is not new information to anyone on this site, but my point is this; it does not matter the competition. The lure making business does not belong to big manufacturers. There are thousands of home based lure making businesses and room for many, many more. It could easily rivals that of jewelry makers. Like the jewelry making business, lure making is a form of art.


So, if you are making lures as a business or a hobby, it is an exciting endeavor. Lure making is not just about catching fish, it is about catching the eye of the fisherman and I have to say, there are a lot of eye catching creative artist that frequent this site. I mean there was an entry in the contest where a guy made a small pike like lure out of foam insulation and it was beautiful.


I believe there is good reason to be optimistic about what we are doing and I am looking forward to learning from the many artist on this site.


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