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#175758 T U "secret-sander" Giftxchange 2011

Posted by redg8r on 03 December 2011 - 01:18 PM

Miss out on the last lure swap or looking to add to your custom tackle collection?

Spread a little holiday cheer by joining our "Secret Sander" tackle exchange!


Attached File  tu_sec_sandr_2011.png   11.14KB   9 downloads



Works like most "Secret Santa" exchanges, All US residents are welcome to participate. (Due only to timing issues and being late in the season) If successful, we will plan one worldwide earlier for next year.


How it works:


All participants will randomly receive the name and address of another participant to make for. Participants aren't paired or reciprocal, they will simply be chosen at random. You will not know who is making for you and vice versa.
The recipient won't have a clue who you are unless you elect to tell them, you have the option of remaining anonymous by not leaving a name on the package.


General rules:

  • Must be functioning (usable) fishing tackle, made by yourself or your outfit.
  • Must be US resident.
  • Must be able to ship via USPS priority mail which includes free delivery confirmation.
  • If you CANNOT ship by the posted deadline simply DO NOT sign up.
  • Try and adhere to a fair market value of $10-$15 product total. Going over is fine if you're feeling generous.
How to participate:
  • FIRST Check the following link & make sure your postal address is available and updated in our system. We will pass your postal address to, and only to, the one member randomly chosen as your "Sander", otherwise your complete postal address remains hidden to the public as usual.
  • After your postal info is available "Like" this post, to sign up. The "Like" button is located lower-right of this post. We will use this as our list of participating members.
  • After cutoff, you will be privately assigned another random participating member to make for.
  • Make and mail your gift before the postal deadline.
  • Await your gift to arrive shortly after Christmas!
The most important thing is to follow through with your gift. It only works if everyone sends something and gets something in return.

Signup's are open from now until Sat. Dec. 17th. After which you will receive your addressee via PM.
Merry Christmas Everyone!

Jerry "redg8r"
p.s. I know the name "secret sander" is corny, feel free to pass along a funnier name if you come up w/ one :)
  • Lincoya, Coley, Richard Prager and 14 others like this


#233506 Why Pvc?

Posted by mark poulson on 19 February 2015 - 11:08 AM

At Rowhunter's suggestion, I'm starting a PVC thread.

I use it for all my lure building, for the following reasons:

 

It is totally waterproof, so I can shape a lure, and then test float and ballast it without any sealing.  I have a 3 gallon bucket of water in my driveway that I use for test floating.  

 

It is buoyant.  The Azek PVC decking is as buoyant as poplar, a hardwood I used to build my  jointed swimbaits from.

The Azek trimboard is even more buoyant, like medium density balsa.  I can make really active shallow cranks with it.

 

It is strong.  The decking is as strong as any wood, for lure building, and the trimboard, although not as dense, is still plenty strong enough for any crank.  And I use it for my smaller two piece jointed lures, too.  I caught a 7lb largemouth with a PVC trimboard

spybait I made that was 4" long, but only 7/16" thick, and I had drilled several 3/16" holes up from the belly for my ballast.  She ate the rear hook, and the bait held up fine.

Both are strong enough to hold screw eyes with just a small pilot hole.  No need for any reinforcement, or setting into holes filled with epoxy.

I usually use the gap filling/brush on super glue alone to set my hardware, and a lot times my bills, too.  I use the accelerant (thank you Ben) dripped onto the glue to help it set quickly, once things are positioned.

 

It machines and carves well.  Although the sanding dust is nasty, because it sticks to everything, including my sinuses, PVC is easily machined and shaped with the same tools I used for wood.  

As with any work, sharp tools work best.

I cut out my bait profile, and lip slot, with a bandsaw, and try to drill any ballast hole while the bait has the flat sides, so I can drill straight holes with my drill press.

I use an oscillating belt sander with an 80 grit belt to do my major shaping, working from a centerline I put on the bait after I've sanded the bandsaw marks off.

I "carve" details with a dremel sanding drum, and drill out my eyes with a multi-spur bit on a drill press.

I typically sand down from 80 grit to 120 grit with a vibrator sander, and finish up with a small piece of sandpaper to get edges and details softened.

Because it has no direction-oriented grain, it carves really well with sharp tool.

It can be laminated into bigger lure blanks using the same PVC glue plumbers use for PVC pipe, or you can use super glue.  If you use both the PVC primer and the glue, the two pieces actually melt into one solid piece. 

As long as the two surfaces are flat and mate, you're good to go.

 

It paints well.  I can shoot Wicked White as a base coat onto a raw PVC bait, heat set it, and never have any separation problems with my paint schemes.  When I've had occasion to remove some paint to modify a bait, I've had to sand down to the PVC to get the paint off.  It never peels.

Occasionally, heat setting too hot can cause trapped air to bubble up under the seal coat, so I generally seal baits by rubbing crazy glue, or thinned epoxy, over them before I paint, if I want a super smooth bait.  But any bubbles that do appear can be popped by the sharp tip of an exacto knife, and they lay right back down when I press them with my exacto knife handle.  I've never had any baits with popped bubbles fail.

And, because it is totally waterproof, I don't have to worry about nicks and scuffs from rocks and hooks.  

 

Any top coat works.  I've used epoxies, urethanes, and concrete sealers, with no problems.

 

In short, it make lure building faster and easier, and that make it even more fun, so why I use it.


  • Rowhunter, JBlaze, bassguy and 6 others like this


#4987 [SITE RULES] You MUST Read Before Posting.

Posted by redg8r on 30 September 2003 - 09:57 PM

SITE RULES] You MUST Read Before Posting. Welcome to Tackleunderground's boards. In order to make your stay as pleasant and constructive as possible please take your time to read through this, it will help you get the most from our boards These guidelines can be changed at anytime, without notice.
Last Update: 12/24/13

Tackleunderground.com prides itself on being an open & accommodating resource for anyone interested in creating custom fishing tackle. We strive to keep an edge on other related websites by keeping a clean, up to date & well organized reference for our visitors and members to benefit and enjoy.
With that said, there are some important site guidelines that need to be followed, these guidelines are strictly enforced by our staff.

Infractions are given to any of the guidelines broken below, and can result in having your post/s moved, edited, removed and/or your user account/s temporarily suspended or permanantly banned from the site.
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  • dog1660, mcdawg, alexD12CAD and 5 others like this


#238514 Custom Baits Magazine, An E-Magazine

Posted by fatfingers on 30 May 2015 - 12:56 AM

Here is my take on this topic...

I was approached by the gentleman who started this magazine. He was respectful and offered me the chance to showcase my baits in his online magazine. The offer was at no charge to me and he asked for nothing but photos...as many as I wanted to submit.

Although I have not contributed as of yet, I saw nothing but an honest earnest offer to participate in his venture. I am currently busy with other matters but I may participate later just for fun. Why not? I enjoy building and I get a kick out of sharing my efforts...don't we all? Isn't that why the gallery here has no shortage of contributions?

I think that like any new venture, he will probably have some growing pains and that's okay with me. As is often the case with any new idea or venture, the mission may change as time goes on and perhaps will have more for everyone later.

I wish him all the best as he tries to get his venture off the ground. I hope he succeeds and I hope at some point he profits from his desire to showcase custom lures for everyone to enjoy.

We all enjoy looking at baits and on a blog that I started on another website, I have also tried to showcase what I consider to be some of the finest bait builders from all over the world. People seem to enjoy that and this fellow is simply trying to do the same, from what I've seen.

I see absolutely no reason to wish him anything but the best of luck as he tries to do something that he feels has a certain value for all to enjoy.
  • Salty's, Richard Prager, Vodkaman and 4 others like this


#235627 New Guy On The Site

Posted by mark poulson on 28 March 2015 - 10:07 AM

Be forewarned!  

If coffee had been created on the first day, it would have only take four days to create the world.

If bass fishing and lure making had been created on the first day, the rest of the world would never have been finished.


  • Vodkaman, barr5150, Uncle Jay and 4 others like this


#230996 Just Thinking...

Posted by mark poulson on 13 January 2015 - 03:59 PM

After I burned down my garage the second time, because I saw how far I had to go to even come close to his paint jobs, my homeowner's insurance won't allow me to look at Tim Hughes' baits any more.


  • jwfflipper, Vodkaman, bassguy and 4 others like this


#185055 The Beginning Of Hand Poured Fishing Worms!

Posted by jeff@mf on 17 April 2012 - 05:05 PM

These are promos from M-F few years after they started out, I was only 5 years old calling (M-F) where my mom worked that my brother was picking on me and now I've worked here over 15 years. Thought I would share this with you guys, see if you can see the prices back then: 1974 jeff@mf

Attached Files


  • redg8r, mickeyg, softworm and 4 others like this


#231039 Just Thinking...

Posted by Skeeter on 14 January 2015 - 02:07 PM

I believe that color does matter. I have been throwing crankbaits hard since 1998 and I feel that I have proved that to myself. However, that is just my opinion.

 

As far as paint jobs are concerned….. that is just the fisherman’s decision. So many fish have been caught and so much money has been won off of simple paint schemes (Homer, Dolphin, Carp, Black/White, Black/Yellow) that I feel super HD paint jobs are not necessary. HOWEVER, I do look at these beautiful lures as a work of art. It is complicated and takes a lot of talent to create these beautiful objects. I appreciate the effort and talent of those that make them. To me it is what separates those that just want to make and/or paint a bait to use or those that are truly passionate about the craft. I have bought some of these baits for my personal collection. I just appreciate the exceptional skill and craftsmanship of others.  

 

I have said forever that if you are going to make well made crankbaits you have to “love the craft”. You have to be totally ate up with making the best crankbait that your two hands can possibly make. To me, this means going the extra mile to develop your skills and knowledge. You have to be willing to make countless mistakes to develop your personal talents.

 

I constantly push myself to reach a higher plane than any other bait maker.  I am willing to make the mistakes and put up with the failures to make the finest crankbaits that God and my two hands will allow. And I doubt that many people have spent the time studying crankbaits in a pool as much as I have. I don’t care about how much time it takes, how much money it costs, how many I can make at a time or how much money I can make. I just want to make the best. In other words…..I don’t care about the money…. I want the name.

 

I don’t judge my work by showing my lures to fishermen. I just watch the reactions of other bait makers when they see one of my crankbaits. Bait makers know how much work it takes to make them. Therefore, it is their reaction to my work that I want to see. When I hand a fellow craftsman one of my baits and I see their eyes widen in the first two seconds of seeing the lure then I know I have done good work on the appearance. If the bait knocks their socks off then they have to react, they don’t have to say a thing. However, that does not necessarily mean that the lure is any good. If I sell a lure to someone, and they come back for another, then I know that they are catching fish with it. For me that is enough proof that my work is acceptable.

 

But when it really comes down to it, I am the best judge of my work. If I am happy with the way a lure looks and performs then I am satisfied for the moment. I set my own standards very high and I know that I am my toughest critic. I don’t lie to myself. I don’t need the approval of someone else. I know in my guts that a particular bait is the best that I can create.  But….. we all have to do a little “showboating” now and then.

 

There are two quotes that I have always remembered and believed in.

 

Rick Clunn : “A lure is nothing more than a tool” to get the job done.

Bill Dance: “The number one lure in every fisherman’s tackle box is confidence.”

 

I feel that if we believe that we have the right tool and have the confidence to fish it properly, the only thing left is to find the right fish to present it to. I think that this is the number one factor that most of us fail at. So this year, that is what I will be working on.

 

Skeeter


  • jwfflipper, sonoman, RayburnGuy and 3 others like this


#172560 How To Build A Vacuum Former

Posted by Coley on 30 September 2011 - 04:23 PM

You will need a small hot plate, you can get this at wally world or other store.Attached File  DSCF0537.JPG   352.49KB   289 downloads

Enough 1"x 6" x 3/4" to build a 12" OD square frame.Attached File  DSCF0537.JPG   352.49KB   289 downloads
We are going to use a shop vac for our suction.

One 1" x 6" x 4' piece of pine lumber
One 1" x 4" x 4' piece of pine lumber
Four 3/8" x 2" flat angle braces
16, 1/8" x 1/8" Plaster of Paris rivets with back up washers.
One piece of thin scrap wood, plastic or other type of material 10" x 10"
One piece of what is called punch plate for vacuum bed top, 10" x 10"
Some silicone caulk, some tape, (I used alum. tape) 16 dry wall screws 1 1/2" long

OK, lets get started by building a 12" x 12" box for the hot plate to set in.

Using the 1" x 6" lumber cut 2 pieces 12" long and 2 pieces 10 1/2" long.
Cut a small notch in one of the boards for the hot plate cord to come through
this will become the bottom of the box.
This box is screwed together with the dry wall screws. Screw the 12" pieces
to the 10 1/2" pieces.Attached File  DSCF0539.JPG   283.46KB   112 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0541.JPG   259.49KB   124 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0547.JPG   193.95KB   111 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0548.JPG   242.14KB   134 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0550.JPG   209.06KB   154 downloads

Now lets build the vacuum bed.
Using the 1" x 4" piece of lumber, cut 2 pieces 10" long and 2 pieces 8 1/2" long.
and screw the 10" pieces to the 8 1/2" pieces using the dry wall screws.
Before screwing the last piece on use a hole saw to cut a hole in it that will fit your
shop vac.Attached File  DSCF0542.JPG   231.75KB   161 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0554.JPG   216.33KB   142 downloads
The bottom of this hole should be about 3/8" from the bottom of the box we are building.Attached File  DSCF0554.JPG   216.33KB   142 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0555.JPG   205.56KB   162 downloads
We are also going to tape the 10" x 10" piece of whatever you use on the bottom of the box.
We will then caulk the seams inside the box.Attached File  DSCF0556.JPG   239.24KB   213 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0557.JPG   228.61KB   230 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0559.JPG   195.03KB   273 downloads
Now tape the punch plate on top of the box. We now have our vacuum bed.Attached File  DSCF0564.JPG   257.55KB   287 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0561.JPG   279.21KB   301 downloads
Now we need to build an angle iron frame with a 10 1/2" inside dia.and a 12" outside dia.
I think the pictures will explain this. The frame will match the 12" box perfect and slip down over the 10" box.Attached File  DSCF0566.JPG   267.19KB   256 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0567.JPG   170.74KB   275 downloads
Use the 3/8" x 2" flat angle braces on each corner, attach with the Plaster of Paris rivets and washers.Attached File  DSCF0572.JPG   281.11KB   286 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0573.JPG   212.33KB   339 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0575.JPG   321.16KB   438 downloads
Add a couple handles from a piece of dowel.
This completes the construction process

Now to use this, cut your plastic to form 12" x 12" and attach to the alum frame with the binder clips.Attached File  DSCF0578.JPG   244.43KB   660 downloads
Place your models on the punch plate, I use baits cut in half, and get a good right and left side.
Set the temp on hot plate about theree fourths of the way, not on high.
I have had not a fire but, i guess you could if it got too hot.
Place the plastic in the frame over the hot plate and start the shop vac.
The plastic will sag at first then tighten up then sag again, it is time to place it over the vacuum bed.Attached File  DSCF0582.JPG   258.04KB   819 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0583.JPG   210.48KB   842 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0586.JPG   282.79KB   740 downloadsAttached File  DSCF0587.JPG   260.75KB   669 downloads

Attached Files


  • redg8r, Charles Mitchell, jaythefisherman and 3 others like this


#240838 What To Do In A "copying" Situation?

Posted by Travis on 23 July 2015 - 03:56 PM

Exactly why I'm not releasing names. There is a little deeper reason to it as well, and some details I have not released for several reasons. If I'm right about these other "details", then this situation is much more serious and it would rock the custom tackle industry. If I'm wrong...I might as well just go live on Mars. 

So I apologize if people are anxious to know or mad that I'm not saying who it is...but believe me it's for a good reason that I am keeping my mouth shut.

 

 

Rock the custom tackle making industry....  :lolhuh:   I am beginning to think this is sort of like Geraldo opening Capone's safe.  


  • Richard Prager, mark poulson, Sniper and 2 others like this


#237736 Epoxy That Doesn't Need A Turner?

Posted by BobP on 12 May 2015 - 08:16 PM

Until epoxy begins to harden, it will migrate due to gravity.  Devcon Two Ton is one of the faster "30 minute epoxies" but it still takes about 45 minutes before it hardens enough not to migrate - and that's at 75-80 degrees.  If you have no turner, you can hang the bait up and then periodically reverse it for the 45 min required.  Turn it frequently, about every minute at first, then gradually less often as it begins to stiffen.  Putting a wire hanger on the front and rear of the bait makes the process much easier.  The exercise will teach you that a lure turner is something you want to build sooner rather than later.

 

There are other coatings, like Solarez UV cured polyester resin, moisture cured urethanes, and concrete sealers that are basically brush on and hang up coatings.  They either cure fast (uv) or are so thin (mcu and sealer) that any excess drips off the lure before they harden.  But epoxy is a great coating for many reasons and if you plan to build baits in the future, a lure turner is the way to go.


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#236553 Lip Size Vs Depth

Posted by Vodkaman on 15 April 2015 - 09:57 AM

RW - do not concern yourself about the questions. Even if the question has been asked before, it serves a purpose to re-address a question and see if any new ideas come to surface.

This is a very interesting question and was actually one of my pet projects in my early days of TU, when I attempted to write a spreadsheet for designing lures; were you enter in all your parameters and the sheet would tell you if the lure was stable or not, how deep it would swim, how wide the wobble would be and how fast it would wobble.

Everyone warned me that it was impossible, but that only encourages me. Actually some things are possible to predict mathematically, but there are so many variables that have to be taken into account. At the time, my limited knowledge was holding me back, but as my knowledge from testing improved, I found that I did not need a spreadsheet to tell me how a lure would swim, I could just tell.

Predicting the depth is one of those difficult features. This is because there is a lot more to it than the length, shape and angle of the lip. The most important variable in determining the swim depth is the tow eye position.

But, there is even more to it than this; the length, width, shape and curvature of the back of the lure has an effect. The length of the active edge of the lip, combined with the length, width and shape, all these features have an effect.

So, certainly predicting a swim depth with simple spreadsheet maths is not possible.

What you can do, is learn what affect each feature has on the depth of the lure. Think about how a lure achieves depth in the first place. Understanding these details is what experience is all about.

Here is an example:

A deep diver design, long lip, shallow angle with tow eye on the lip. There is an ideal position for the eye for maximum depth. Move the eye forward and the lure swims shallower, move the eye further back and the lure swims shallower.

Analogy - firing a cannon ball. There is an optimum firing angle. Fire too low an angle, distance shortens, fire too steep, distance shortens.

Back to the lure; The eye position is a balance of all the features that I mentioned above. This means that I can alter the swim depth by altering any of those features. Let's say you have a lure that has the perfect balance, then obviously altering anything is going to make the lure swim shallower, but what we can do is think of the change in terms of the tow eye position. Starting off with an easy one:

Shorten the lip length - effectively eye position moves forwards. Swim angle reduces, bait swims shallower.
Lengthen lip length - eye position moves rearwards. Swim angle increases, nose down, but bait swims shallower with a harder thump.
Narrower lip - eye forwards.
Wider lip - eye rearwards.
Thicker lip - eye forwards.
Thinner lip - eye rearwards.
longer body - eye forwards.
shorter body - eye rearwards.
Fatter body - eye forwards.
Thinner body - eye rearwards.
Rounder body - eye forwards.
flatter body - eye rearwards.

This should be enough to get you thinking about the design.

Dave


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#235643 Omg I Just Have To Vent

Posted by mark poulson on 28 March 2015 - 06:02 PM

I usually hit both parts of my D2T with my hair dryer in cold weather, so they become more runny and easier to squeeze out and mix.  The resin is always thicker than the hardener, at least for me.

 

An associated question.  Is there an epoxy that will prevent me from dropping a freshly coated lure onto my garage's carpet strip?  Hahaha


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#228364 Just Thinking...

Posted by Hughesy on 26 November 2014 - 09:32 AM

My paint jobs do catch fisherman. Fisherman like Larry Nixson, George Cochran, Stacy King, Randy Blaukat, Tommy Martin, Gary Klien, John Sappington, Brent Chapman, Robbie Dodson, KVD, Mike McClelland,  plus many, many more.Thanks to everyone who has purchased my lures over the past 30 years.
Color does matter. At least these pros think so.


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#212898 Lure Drying Wheel

Posted by FLASH on 09 January 2014 - 04:10 PM

recovering from a recent operation at home with not much todo and lots to think about . So now after a day in the shed i now have this little helper .

Hope some of you may find this usefull .

FLASH


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#211056 Putting Fur On A Rodent Lure?

Posted by Nathan on 09 December 2013 - 03:48 PM

Several types of fur are usable...Fly fisherman have been using fur on flies for decades....The easiest way to use fur is on the hide. Look at "Zonker Strips" at a fly shop.....They are cut from Rabbit, squirrel..etc. or you can buy whole hides of coon,Muskrat etc. and cut your own......Nathan

Attached Files


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#210090 Swim Jigs

Posted by bass100 on 22 November 2013 - 12:12 PM

I have had alot of people ask me how I am putting in these weedguards so hopefully this will put all the questions at rest.  You can put wire weedguards in any mold. 

 

1) you cut a weedguard insert so it is flush with the inside of the cavity

Attached File  swimjig1.JPG   126.99KB   189 downloads

2) cut a slot in the weedguard insert for the wire weedguard.  I use a dremel.

Attached File  swimjig22.JPG   71.67KB   243 downloadsAttached File  swimjig33.JPG   73.93KB   238 downloads

3) when you make your weedguards make sure that it hooks around the jig hook.  Use wire of

     your own choice.

Attached File  swimjig44.JPG   33.12KB   256 downloads

4) put it all together in the mold.

Attached File  swimjig55.JPG   112.82KB   215 downloads

 

So as you see you can put a wire weedguard in any mold that takes a fiber weedguard.  Hope this helps.


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#187972 Part Time Plastics

Posted by XFactorTackle on 22 June 2012 - 01:24 AM

It's a tough business with lots of competition. I went from part time to full time. It's do-able but most people are not willing to put in the amount of time or money that it takes to be successful, and that goes for any business.

You need to be willing to make $0.00 a year and work your butt off day in and day out. No vacations, no sick days, no dream vacations, just hard work. If you plan on fishing everyday and making big $, stop dreaming because that's not going to happen. To be successful you need to plan on working 12-15 hours a day and fishing very, very little.

As for being bought out, focus on step 1 first. Having a vision for success is great but you need to be able to focus on important tasks like getting up and running first.

Jeff
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#178146 Bass Skin

Posted by Fishsticks on 10 January 2012 - 12:52 PM

I got the idea of using real fish skin from another member who did it on this site. I throw back 99% of the fish I catch, but when I do keep one or two, it is to eat them. I prefer to use as much of the animal as I can when I do. I don't think deer are captured and released just to shave there tails for a buck tail. I was taught if you kill it, you eat it. I prefer to use as much of the animal as I can when I do.
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#176515 How I Make A Pvc Crakbait

Posted by nedyarb on 19 December 2011 - 12:32 AM

Thanks to all the member on TU for their help. This is how I make a pvc crank.
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