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#175758 T U "secret-sander" Giftxchange 2011

Posted by redg8r on 03 December 2011 - 01:18 PM

Miss out on the last lure swap or looking to add to your custom tackle collection?

Spread a little holiday cheer by joining our "Secret Sander" tackle exchange!


tu_sec_sandr_2011.png



Works like most "Secret Santa" exchanges, All US residents are welcome to participate. (Due only to timing issues and being late in the season) If successful, we will plan one worldwide earlier for next year.


How it works:


All participants will randomly receive the name and address of another participant to make for. Participants aren't paired or reciprocal, they will simply be chosen at random. You will not know who is making for you and vice versa.
The recipient won't have a clue who you are unless you elect to tell them, you have the option of remaining anonymous by not leaving a name on the package.


General rules:

  • Must be functioning (usable) fishing tackle, made by yourself or your outfit.
  • Must be US resident.
  • Must be able to ship via USPS priority mail which includes free delivery confirmation.
  • If you CANNOT ship by the posted deadline simply DO NOT sign up.
  • Try and adhere to a fair market value of $10-$15 product total. Going over is fine if you're feeling generous.
How to participate:
  • FIRST Check the following link & make sure your postal address is available and updated in our system. We will pass your postal address to, and only to, the one member randomly chosen as your "Sander", otherwise your complete postal address remains hidden to the public as usual.
  • After your postal info is available "Like" this post, to sign up. The "Like" button is located lower-right of this post. We will use this as our list of participating members.
  • After cutoff, you will be privately assigned another random participating member to make for.
  • Make and mail your gift before the postal deadline.
  • Await your gift to arrive shortly after Christmas!
The most important thing is to follow through with your gift. It only works if everyone sends something and gets something in return.

Signup's are open from now until Sat. Dec. 17th. After which you will receive your addressee via PM.
Merry Christmas Everyone!

Jerry "redg8r"
p.s. I know the name "secret sander" is corny, feel free to pass along a funnier name if you come up w/ one :)


#185055 The Beginning Of Hand Poured Fishing Worms!

Posted by jeff@mf on 17 April 2012 - 05:05 PM

These are promos from M-F few years after they started out, I was only 5 years old calling (M-F) where  my mom worked that my brother was picking on me and now I've worked here over 15 years. Thought I would share this with you guys, see if you can see the prices back then: 1974 jeff@mf

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#4987 [SITE RULES] You MUST Read Before Posting.

Posted by redg8r on 30 September 2003 - 09:57 PM

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Last Update: 12/24/13

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#211056 Putting Fur On A Rodent Lure?

Posted by Nathan on 09 December 2013 - 03:48 PM

Several types of fur are usable...Fly fisherman have been using fur on flies for decades....The easiest way to use fur is  on the hide. Look at "Zonker Strips" at a fly shop.....They are cut from Rabbit, squirrel..etc. or you can buy whole hides of coon,Muskrat etc. and cut your own......Nathan

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#210090 Swim Jigs

Posted by bass100 on 22 November 2013 - 12:12 PM

I have had alot of people ask me how I am putting in these weedguards so hopefully this will put all the questions at rest.  You can put wire weedguards in any mold. 

 

1) you cut a weedguard insert so it is flush with the inside of the cavity

swimjig1.JPG

2) cut a slot in the weedguard insert for the wire weedguard.  I use a dremel.

swimjig22.JPG swimjig33.JPG

3) when you make your weedguards make sure that it hooks around the jig hook.  Use wire of

     your own choice.

swimjig44.JPG

4) put it all together in the mold.

swimjig55.JPG

 

So as you see you can put a wire weedguard in any mold that takes a fiber weedguard.  Hope this helps.




#187972 Part Time Plastics

Posted by XFactorTackle on 22 June 2012 - 01:24 AM

It's a tough business with lots of competition. I went from part time to full time. It's do-able but most people are not willing to put in the amount of time or money that it takes to be successful, and that goes for any business.

You need to be willing to make $0.00 a year and work your butt off day in and day out. No vacations, no sick days, no dream vacations, just hard work. If you plan on fishing everyday and making big $, stop dreaming because that's not going to happen. To be successful you need to plan on working 12-15 hours a day and fishing very, very little.

As for being bought out, focus on step 1 first. Having a vision for success is great but you need to be able to focus on important tasks like getting up and running first.

Jeff


#178146 Bass Skin

Posted by Fishsticks on 10 January 2012 - 12:52 PM

I got the idea of using real fish skin from another member who did it on this site. I throw back 99% of the fish I catch, but when I do keep one or two, it is to eat them. I prefer to use as much of the animal as I can when I do. I don't think deer are captured and released just to shave there tails for a buck tail. I was taught if you kill it, you eat it. I prefer to use as much of the animal as I can when I do.


#176515 How I Make A Pvc Crakbait

Posted by nedyarb on 19 December 2011 - 12:32 AM

Thanks to all the member on TU for their help. This is how I make a pvc crank.


#172560 How To Build A Vacuum Former

Posted by Coley on 30 September 2011 - 04:23 PM

You will need a small hot plate, you can get this at wally world or other store.DSCF0537.JPG

Enough 1"x 6" x 3/4" to build a 12" OD square frame.DSCF0537.JPG
We are going to use a shop vac for our suction.

One 1" x 6" x 4' piece of pine lumber
One 1" x 4" x 4' piece of pine lumber
Four 3/8" x 2" flat angle braces
16, 1/8" x 1/8" Plaster of Paris rivets with back up washers.
One piece of thin scrap wood, plastic or other type of material 10" x 10"
One piece of what is called punch plate for vacuum bed top, 10" x 10"
Some silicone caulk, some tape, (I used alum. tape) 16 dry wall screws 1 1/2" long

OK, lets get started by building a 12" x 12" box for the hot plate to set in.

Using the 1" x 6" lumber cut 2 pieces 12" long and 2 pieces 10 1/2" long.
Cut a small notch in one of the boards for the hot plate cord to come through
this will become the bottom of the box.
This box is screwed together with the dry wall screws. Screw the 12" pieces
to the 10 1/2" pieces.DSCF0539.JPG DSCF0541.JPG DSCF0547.JPG DSCF0548.JPG DSCF0550.JPG

Now lets build the vacuum bed.
Using the 1" x 4" piece of lumber, cut 2 pieces 10" long and 2 pieces 8 1/2" long.
and screw the 10" pieces to the 8 1/2" pieces using the dry wall screws.
Before screwing the last piece on use a hole saw to cut a hole in it that will fit your
shop vac.DSCF0542.JPG DSCF0554.JPG
The bottom of this hole should be about 3/8" from the bottom of the box we are building.DSCF0554.JPG DSCF0555.JPG
We are also going to tape the 10" x 10" piece of whatever you use on the bottom of the box.
We will then caulk the seams inside the box.DSCF0556.JPG DSCF0557.JPG DSCF0559.JPG
Now tape the punch plate on top of the box. We now have our vacuum bed.DSCF0564.JPG DSCF0561.JPG
Now we need to build an angle iron frame with a 10 1/2" inside dia.and a 12" outside dia.
I think the pictures will explain this. The frame will match the 12" box perfect and slip down over the 10" box.DSCF0566.JPG DSCF0567.JPG
Use the 3/8" x 2" flat angle braces on each corner, attach with the Plaster of Paris rivets and washers.DSCF0572.JPG DSCF0573.JPG DSCF0575.JPG
Add a couple handles from a piece of dowel.
This completes the construction process

Now to use this, cut your plastic to form 12" x 12" and attach to the alum frame with the binder clips.DSCF0578.JPG
Place your models on the punch plate, I use baits cut in half, and get a good right and left side.
Set the temp on hot plate about theree fourths of the way, not on high.
I have had not a fire but, i guess you could if it got too hot.
Place the plastic in the frame over the hot plate and start the shop vac.
The plastic will sag at first then tighten up then sag again, it is time to place it over the vacuum bed.DSCF0582.JPG DSCF0583.JPG DSCF0586.JPG DSCF0587.JPG

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#220080 Simple And Cheap Swimbait Holder

Posted by RayburnGuy on 02 May 2014 - 03:48 AM

Hey guys,

 

Since I don't paint a lot of swimbaits I was looking for a cheap and effective way to hold them while painting and I couldn't justify buying one of the "helping hands" holders that a lot of you use even though they're relatively cheap. I had tried making a couple different holders from heavy wire and was never satisfied with them. The bait would flop around and the joints would move allowing painted surfaces to touch each other. Combine my cheapness with liking to build tools, gadgets, jigs, etc. I came up with the holder shown below.

 

It's made from a wooden coat hanger, a couple eye screws, 2 rubber bands and a couple of "S" hooks bent from the wire I normally use for hangers and ties. The whole thing was made from stuff laying around the house and it works great. You can vary the tension on the rubber bands by wrapping them around the eye screws. There's also an eye screw located under the bait so a short wire "S" hook can be hooked to the belly hanger.  The eye screw that holds the "S" hook on the bottom can be placed anywhere along the coat hanger to match whatever size lure your painting. The tension on the "S" hook can also be varied by changing the length of it. This is done so the jointed sections of the swimbait can be aligned parallel to each other. You can hold the holder in your hand or place it in a vice if you need to use both hands for painting.

 

On this particular swimbait I drilled a small hole in the tail to allow an eye screw to be threaded into it so the tension would be applied through the center of the lure. After painting is done a small drop of super glue is all that's needed to repair it.

 

Anyway, just thought I'd share my latest crazy idea in case some of you aren't satisfied with what your using now.

 

Ben

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#213919 New Lure Turner/dryer

Posted by dpalinsk on 27 January 2014 - 05:32 PM

A friend of mine (Carl) helped me build this lure turner/dryer.  Actually, I helped design it and he built it.  I wanted it to be multi-purpose, something that could dry lures and jigs.  We were looking at other turners on that Interweb thingy, when we (Carl) came up with the idea to use a spring fitted into a beveled area on one of the wheels.  It was a good idea and it works well.  It's whisper quite and runs smoothly.

 

Carl took lots of pictures while making and incorporated those with his notes on how he built it a PDF file.  It's too large to post here, but I would be happy to email to any who would like a copy.

 

 

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#212898 Lure Drying Wheel

Posted by FLASH on 09 January 2014 - 04:10 PM

recovering from a recent operation at home with not much todo and lots to think about . So now after a day in the shed i now have this little helper .

Hope some of you may find this usefull .

FLASH




#212789 Want To Start A New Company

Posted by carolinamike on 07 January 2014 - 11:12 PM

First off, let me clear some things up. A quality large scale production machine will run you somewhere in the neighborhood of $50,000 to $70,000. This piece of equipment has the capabilities of producing 15000-25000 pieces in about 8-10 hours. The cavity count in a mold is just according to the bait. For instance, a straight worm, you may get 60-70 cavities, or a creature bait such as a craw, you may only have 25-35 cavities. The standard production mold is around 30 inches tall. The width depends on the length of the bait. Trout Support is correct in saying that the mold is specifically designed to the injection machine producing the product. Not all machines are the same. It's hard to give an exact cost when it comes to production work without having some information about the particular bait. It's basically based on how many can be produced in an 8 hour period, and the actual weight of the plastic that it takes to fill the mold.

 

Packaging costs will vary, most packers charge per bag of baits at a cost somewhere between .10-.25 per bag. Again this has several variables, it's mainly based on how many packs of baits can be produced per hour.

 

The advantages of having someone else to produce your baits is you have time to do marketing and promoting of product. You don't have employees to worry about as far as production goes. So you basically have time to concentrate on sales. The advantages of producing your own baits are not that great unless you are doing a large amount of baits. Keep in mind when you are running production equipment that most measurements are based on 5 gallons of plastic. You have to have a pretty good knowledge of how plastic flows. Also you have to be pretty mechanically inclined. And you have to have sufficient space for production and storage. Just for a basic setup of 1 machine, you're probably looking at over $100,000 by the time you factor in the machine, the mold or molds, the initial startup material, such as plastic, coloring, flake. Also you're going to have to have a cooling rack, a 7-10 HP air compressor, sufficient electrical capacity to run everything, also sufficient space for scrap storage and you will also need a sufficient cooling system.

 

The starting point for the production of a plastic bait will be to contact a mold maker, no need for a middleman to do any kind of CAD work or drawing, the moldmakers will work directly with you and do this type of work for you. Just remember everyone that you involve in this is another person you're paying. There's really only 2 companies right now producing production molds. Which are Zorn and Basstackle. Mold costs are going to average anywhere from $5,000 to as much as $15,000. It's just according to what all you want in the bait. Keep in mind the mold delegates all aspects of the baits, such as laminates and two colored tails. The machine just basically pushes plastic. I think you can trust these two moldmakers not to reproduce your product for someone else. And they both will be glad to sign legal documents to ensure this. But the bigger companies do have ways around things. So a patent is a must to ensure full protection. Most folks that can't afford to go the patent route make sure that they have sufficient production or inventory so if the bait takes off big, they can meet all demand. This really doesn't protect you from being copied, but it does establish your place in the market, and will build you a loyal customer base. Yamamoto's Senko is a prime example of this. There's a bunch of stick baits on the market, but there are those guys out there that are only going to use Yamamoto's Senko. The bait business is nothing to be taken lightly, it is very very competitive and very cutthroat. Also one thing I forgot to mention, if you do your own production work, you will be responsible for a 10% quarterly Federal Excise tax, but you're paying this tax whether you produce it or whether I produce it, or another injector. And by the way all injection companies have a minimum production run, including me. I've recently had to restructure due to scheduling, so I won't do anything less than a 4 hour (half day) run. All your other injection companies require an 8 hour (full day) run per color. Reason being, if someone comes in in the evening, and sets the equipment up for the next days run, then all the operator does is come to work and produce the product. We are currently the only company I know of that will actually change colors in the middle of the day. Even though this post is long there's still some more details. Feel free to call me and I'll be glad to answer any questions that I can. And I'll even give you names of other injectors besides myself. My contact information is listed on my profile. I hope this helps you have an idea of how the process works.




#211977 Coolest Lure Contest Now Running!

Posted by Lincoya on 25 December 2013 - 12:32 PM

I don't see how you can put hand MADE and hand PAINTED lures in the same category. There is a lot more work that goes into a handmade lure than one that someone just paints.

 

Gene




#206665 Tackleunderground's Future Secured...

Posted by redg8r on 19 September 2013 - 11:32 PM

Thanks George,
 
Travis,  I hear ya, some will remember...
Looking back, we were a small group of builders on another site, run by (Erik) one bright guy with a day job who got in over his head & let it fall into disrepair.
When the site went offline (for longer than usual) a few of us discussed setting up another forum to keep our group together.
I already had a forum setup to support a lure carving machine I'd been working on (Anyone remember the "Duplik8r"??) so we started gathering there to what would later become Tackle Underground.
 
We had no visions of grandeur, no preconceived notions, we were just sick, crazy, obsessed tackle makers who stumbled into craft stores at 8pm coated in sawdust looking for glitter & a wedding veil to cut up. We were packrats, hoarding epoxy, plaster, wheelweights....swiping pyrex cups from our wives, & gladly taking heat for it.
 
Parts were sparse & anything lying around was a potential lure component. 
We needed each other to validate our insanity & our original home on the web was just gone....like that....poof.... no warning, no explanation.
 
I despised Erik for a long time for doin that to us, but we saved an ember & relit that fire here.
I promised myself from the start, no matter what, I'd never run TU that way... how hard could it be right??
 
You starting to draw a parallel yet?
 
I've said this before, my hobby was making tackle, now my hobby is making sure you enjoy your hobby.
TU has had much better days....she needs work & it will take full-time devotion to turn that around.
 
I promised myself I'd never run TU that way & I've now kept that promise. I've become TU's #1 problem and I'm fixing that problem, I'm in her way & its well overdue.
 
I've entertained offers for awhile, from fellow members on up to conglomerates who own 100's of forums with topics from sports cars to Japanese anime' I could've $$ out, no notice & sacrificed all our work in the process. I vetted & chose who I felt would carry on our day-to-day & work to refuel that fire lit over a decade ago.
 
I hear and understand everyone's feelings.... LPO is a company, but one genuinely vested in our success. They know we are independent thinkers...they know we shop all over...there are many symbiotic avenues for TU & LPO that don't involve them forcing product down our throats.
 
Bottom line?..... they hope to earn your business by maintaining this site, serving your best interests & help you refine your craft.... how?? well, as usual, it's up to you:
 
Concerns are understood,
A few weeks from now I'll be a normal TU member & I'll reap or forfeit along with you, my friends.
 
Jerry "redg8r" 



#198874 List Of Injection Companies

Posted by carolinamike on 13 March 2013 - 05:08 PM

Keep in mind that D&J are well known for being a knock off company. Not only do they manufactor baits but they also have a retail sales company(Big Bite Baits). Over the years they have helped shut down several mom and Plaster of Paris businesses. There are more injection companies, but unless you have ten or twelve molds they consider you small potatoes. With these companies, the big boys come first, most all of the big companies, including D&J, want to do a full day's run of a single color, no one wants to change the color in the middle of the day. A day's run can be 10 to 15 thousand pieces per color, some compaies will do less but there is a 25 to 30 percent charge for doing so. I dont mind helping you find another injector but I pretty well know all of the injection companies out there, and they are also familiar with me. I dont need to know details about your bait but I do need to know the details of what type of work you want done, what you expect from an injection company, and what your mold is capable of in order to put you with the right injector, and i can also recomend a mold maker to you, but i will need to know how you want your mold sit up in order to suggest a mold maker. Like i said I dont mind helping you, i've done it for several companies and some of them I dont do their work.




#195963 Likes

Posted by Vodkaman on 11 January 2013 - 03:09 PM

I think this is one of those new-ish features that hasn't really been embraced by the community yet. I have hit it a few times, when a good point is made or I totally agree, but would have nothing to add by commenting.

 

I think it is a good feature and I hope it grows in popularity.

 

Dave




#194483 Bojon

Posted by Richard Prager on 04 December 2012 - 06:53 AM

I wish the best for Bojon.....great guy.
For those pouring if you don't have an adequate ventilation system you are committing suicide. Nosebleeds, congestion and migraines are NOT a coincidence. I have Emphysema with 27% total lung function. I fished this weekend for the first time in 16 months because I don't have the energy to hook up the boat and go out by myself until I get a transplant.  Was it caused by pouring for several years...........doubtful since I smoked for 40 and polished jewelry for 13. Did it aggravate it...................without a doubt! If you can smell it, then you're breathing it. Am I trying to scare you?..................damn straight, I am! Take it for what it's worth but I can't carry my kids for more than 100 feet.


#175498 Tackle Box

Posted by toadfrog on 28 November 2011 - 12:02 AM

Used to be kits for that . But they will be basically for fly fishing . Buy the time you wag a wooden box around you'll be able to scratch your feet without bending down .


#172028 Information On How To Burn Your House Down.

Posted by Clint M on 17 September 2011 - 07:35 PM

So today my wife and kids are gone and I decide its the perfect time to melt some lead. Turn on the fan, and pot and while im waiting I decide that im going to try fluxing my lead for the first time. Yeah well everything is melting and I go and get one of my wifes candles out of the kitchen. Knowing full well im in trouble the minute she gets home. I bust the candle into four pieces. Its one of the short fat ones. I take a quarter of the candle throw it in the lead and thats when all hell breaks loose! First the freakin thing ignites sending flames shooting about four foot up in the air. Next thing not to do is blow on it when its on fire. Apparently i spit when i was blowing, and sent lead shooting all over the wall. Then to top it all off my fan and my light were right in the flame. Did you know it takes somewhere in the neighborhood of a minute for the flames of a good fluxing to go out. Well i do now. So the moral of my story is always flux while your wife is away!! Oh and probably should read up on exactly how much candle wax to use. Apparently a fourth of a candle is overkill. Also probably a good idea to have 911 on speed dial when you are fluxing. This way the fire department, and the paramedics can get there in time before your wife gets home.