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#175758 T U "secret-sander" Giftxchange 2011

Posted by redg8r on 03 December 2011 - 01:18 PM

Miss out on the last lure swap or looking to add to your custom tackle collection?

Spread a little holiday cheer by joining our "Secret Sander" tackle exchange!


Attached File  tu_sec_sandr_2011.png   11.14KB   9 downloads



Works like most "Secret Santa" exchanges, All US residents are welcome to participate. (Due only to timing issues and being late in the season) If successful, we will plan one worldwide earlier for next year.


How it works:


All participants will randomly receive the name and address of another participant to make for. Participants aren't paired or reciprocal, they will simply be chosen at random. You will not know who is making for you and vice versa.
The recipient won't have a clue who you are unless you elect to tell them, you have the option of remaining anonymous by not leaving a name on the package.


General rules:

  • Must be functioning (usable) fishing tackle, made by yourself or your outfit.
  • Must be US resident.
  • Must be able to ship via USPS priority mail which includes free delivery confirmation.
  • If you CANNOT ship by the posted deadline simply DO NOT sign up.
  • Try and adhere to a fair market value of $10-$15 product total. Going over is fine if you're feeling generous.
How to participate:
  • FIRST Check the following link & make sure your postal address is available and updated in our system. We will pass your postal address to, and only to, the one member randomly chosen as your "Sander", otherwise your complete postal address remains hidden to the public as usual.
  • After your postal info is available "Like" this post, to sign up. The "Like" button is located lower-right of this post. We will use this as our list of participating members.
  • After cutoff, you will be privately assigned another random participating member to make for.
  • Make and mail your gift before the postal deadline.
  • Await your gift to arrive shortly after Christmas!
The most important thing is to follow through with your gift. It only works if everyone sends something and gets something in return.

Signup's are open from now until Sat. Dec. 17th. After which you will receive your addressee via PM.
Merry Christmas Everyone!

Jerry "redg8r"
p.s. I know the name "secret sander" is corny, feel free to pass along a funnier name if you come up w/ one :)
  • Lincoya, Coley, Richard Prager and 14 others like this


#233506 Why Pvc?

Posted by mark poulson on 19 February 2015 - 11:08 AM

At Rowhunter's suggestion, I'm starting a PVC thread.

I use it for all my lure building, for the following reasons:

 

It is totally waterproof, so I can shape a lure, and then test float and ballast it without any sealing.  I have a 3 gallon bucket of water in my driveway that I use for test floating.  

 

It is buoyant.  The Azek PVC decking is as buoyant as poplar, a hardwood I used to build my  jointed swimbaits from.

The Azek trimboard is even more buoyant, like medium density balsa.  I can make really active shallow cranks with it.

 

It is strong.  The decking is as strong as any wood, for lure building, and the trimboard, although not as dense, is still plenty strong enough for any crank.  And I use it for my smaller two piece jointed lures, too.  I caught a 7lb largemouth with a PVC trimboard

spybait I made that was 4" long, but only 7/16" thick, and I had drilled several 3/16" holes up from the belly for my ballast.  She ate the rear hook, and the bait held up fine.

Both are strong enough to hold screw eyes with just a small pilot hole.  No need for any reinforcement, or setting into holes filled with epoxy.

I usually use the gap filling/brush on super glue alone to set my hardware, and a lot times my bills, too.  I use the accelerant (thank you Ben) dripped onto the glue to help it set quickly, once things are positioned.

 

It machines and carves well.  Although the sanding dust is nasty, because it sticks to everything, including my sinuses, PVC is easily machined and shaped with the same tools I used for wood.  

As with any work, sharp tools work best.

I cut out my bait profile, and lip slot, with a bandsaw, and try to drill any ballast hole while the bait has the flat sides, so I can drill straight holes with my drill press.

I use an oscillating belt sander with an 80 grit belt to do my major shaping, working from a centerline I put on the bait after I've sanded the bandsaw marks off.

I "carve" details with a dremel sanding drum, and drill out my eyes with a multi-spur bit on a drill press.

I typically sand down from 80 grit to 120 grit with a vibrator sander, and finish up with a small piece of sandpaper to get edges and details softened.

Because it has no direction-oriented grain, it carves really well with sharp tool.

It can be laminated into bigger lure blanks using the same PVC glue plumbers use for PVC pipe, or you can use super glue.  If you use both the PVC primer and the glue, the two pieces actually melt into one solid piece. 

As long as the two surfaces are flat and mate, you're good to go.

 

It paints well.  I can shoot Wicked White as a base coat onto a raw PVC bait, heat set it, and never have any separation problems with my paint schemes.  When I've had occasion to remove some paint to modify a bait, I've had to sand down to the PVC to get the paint off.  It never peels.

Occasionally, heat setting too hot can cause trapped air to bubble up under the seal coat, so I generally seal baits by rubbing crazy glue, or thinned epoxy, over them before I paint, if I want a super smooth bait.  But any bubbles that do appear can be popped by the sharp tip of an exacto knife, and they lay right back down when I press them with my exacto knife handle.  I've never had any baits with popped bubbles fail.

And, because it is totally waterproof, I don't have to worry about nicks and scuffs from rocks and hooks.  

 

Any top coat works.  I've used epoxies, urethanes, and concrete sealers, with no problems.

 

In short, it make lure building faster and easier, and that make it even more fun, so why I use it.


  • Rowhunter, JBlaze, bassguy and 9 others like this


#4987 [SITE RULES] You MUST Read Before Posting.

Posted by redg8r on 30 September 2003 - 09:57 PM

SITE RULES] You MUST Read Before Posting. Welcome to Tackleunderground's boards. In order to make your stay as pleasant and constructive as possible please take your time to read through this, it will help you get the most from our boards These guidelines can be changed at anytime, without notice.
Last Update: 12/24/13

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With that said, there are some important site guidelines that need to be followed, these guidelines are strictly enforced by our staff.

Infractions are given to any of the guidelines broken below, and can result in having your post/s moved, edited, removed and/or your user account/s temporarily suspended or permanantly banned from the site.
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  • dog1660, mcdawg, alexD12CAD and 7 others like this


#238514 Custom Baits Magazine, An E-Magazine

Posted by fatfingers on 30 May 2015 - 12:56 AM

Here is my take on this topic...

I was approached by the gentleman who started this magazine. He was respectful and offered me the chance to showcase my baits in his online magazine. The offer was at no charge to me and he asked for nothing but photos...as many as I wanted to submit.

Although I have not contributed as of yet, I saw nothing but an honest earnest offer to participate in his venture. I am currently busy with other matters but I may participate later just for fun. Why not? I enjoy building and I get a kick out of sharing my efforts...don't we all? Isn't that why the gallery here has no shortage of contributions?

I think that like any new venture, he will probably have some growing pains and that's okay with me. As is often the case with any new idea or venture, the mission may change as time goes on and perhaps will have more for everyone later.

I wish him all the best as he tries to get his venture off the ground. I hope he succeeds and I hope at some point he profits from his desire to showcase custom lures for everyone to enjoy.

We all enjoy looking at baits and on a blog that I started on another website, I have also tried to showcase what I consider to be some of the finest bait builders from all over the world. People seem to enjoy that and this fellow is simply trying to do the same, from what I've seen.

I see absolutely no reason to wish him anything but the best of luck as he tries to do something that he feels has a certain value for all to enjoy.
  • Salty's, Richard Prager, Vodkaman and 6 others like this


#254420 How Times Have Changed

Posted by MarkSpolarich on 12 April 2016 - 12:44 PM

I remember when I first started painting lures and even building a few how this site was the only source of information. Unpainted blanks were limited to a few sources and were tempermental sometimes to fish. You could ask people on this site how they painted a color but you still had to work through the process all by yourself. We even had to learn how to blend colors thru trial and error.

 

I leave the "business" for several years and now you can find a multitude of sources for unpainted crankbaits, youtube videos showing the entire process of painting any color pattern imaginable, and even sites with painting tutorials you can print out.

 

While things have changed one thing remains constant. This site still remains as a great source of information and full of very helpful people that will assist in any way they can!!


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#255240 Favorite Injector

Posted by Frank on 29 April 2016 - 12:45 AM

Bob did not start the post so his comments are welcome and always have been. He not posting a thread selling his products and showing what he has done. Funny how some can take things way out of context. We have forums for all types of posts and if used right everyone benefits. Over many years many of us on this forum have contributed great knowledge to anyone who asks. And many of us have seen some that don't, they complain and go away.
  • Vodkaman, mark poulson, Bob La Londe and 4 others like this


#253420 Preventing Rubber Skirts From Melting

Posted by JBlaze on 24 March 2016 - 08:11 AM

I do, and speaking of being old , I am finally re-tiring. :yes:  April 30th will be my last day of work. yipeeeeee!


  • Vodkaman, mark poulson, Musky Glenn and 4 others like this


#253369 Preventing Rubber Skirts From Melting

Posted by smalljaw on 23 March 2016 - 12:28 PM

You need to take your baits tied with rubber out of the boxes and places them in a bag with unscented talc. Give the baits a dust and store in a separate box with each bait being it its own compartment and not touching any other bait. Every other month you need to redust with the talc, it keeps the rubber from sticking together and absorbs small amounts of moisture. I'm on the old side so this may be new to some but when we were kids and you got a new bike tire inner tube, it was made out of rubber and when you opened the box the inner tube had white powder on it and in the box, it was there to keep the rubber from melting together and the same treatment will help living rubber from getting that way.


  • cadman, JBlaze, mark poulson and 4 others like this


#251880 How I Make Rounded Crankbait Lips

Posted by tc-lures on 21 February 2016 - 03:46 PM

Here is how is round over crankbait lips.

tools needed vice grips, washer or bushing, band saw or sander.

1. clamp lip to bushing or washer using vice grips.

2. shape lip with bandsaw or sander.

3. clean up with sandpaper.

 

hope this helps.

Todd

 

Attached Files


  • Nathan, jwfflipper, mark poulson and 4 others like this


#235627 New Guy On The Site

Posted by mark poulson on 28 March 2015 - 10:07 AM

Be forewarned!  

If coffee had been created on the first day, it would have only take four days to create the world.

If bass fishing and lure making had been created on the first day, the rest of the world would never have been finished.


  • Vodkaman, barr5150, Uncle Jay and 4 others like this


#230996 Just Thinking...

Posted by mark poulson on 13 January 2015 - 03:59 PM

After I burned down my garage the second time, because I saw how far I had to go to even come close to his paint jobs, my homeowner's insurance won't allow me to look at Tim Hughes' baits any more.


  • jwfflipper, Vodkaman, bassguy and 4 others like this


#185055 The Beginning Of Hand Poured Fishing Worms!

Posted by jeff@mf on 17 April 2012 - 05:05 PM

These are promos from M-F few years after they started out, I was only 5 years old calling (M-F) where my mom worked that my brother was picking on me and now I've worked here over 15 years. Thought I would share this with you guys, see if you can see the prices back then: 1974 jeff@mf

Attached Files


  • redg8r, mickeyg, softworm and 4 others like this


#251599 Bead Media Vs. Salt (Video)

Posted by joelhains on 17 February 2016 - 10:17 AM

I just put together a video comparing salt and glass bead media as an additive in sinking stickbaits. Check it out! Let me know what you think. I've learned so much from you all here on TU. Its time I try in my feeble way to share as well!


  • Tubeman, Roger Linnell, Vodkaman and 3 others like this


#250173 Overview Of Ultra Molds Mini Shooting Star. Long Read

Posted by taylor1595 on 24 January 2016 - 10:54 PM

Let me preface this little write up by saying I'm in no way affiliated with Ultra Molds and haven't been and won't be compensated for this post.  The reason for doing this is that I know there is interest in this product but there is very little hands on info about it and I would have loved to have someone shorten the learning curve and give me pointers before I got mine.  Hopefully this will not be removed and thought of as an advertisement because that is not it's purpose at all, it's simply some tips and tricks to help people decide if this system might be for them.  With all that said I wanted to wait after I've had the system a few months and have ran around 300 gallons of plastic through it before I gave my thoughts. 

 

The system comes with two pots with stirring motors and heaters with digital controls connected by a manifold for dual injecting.  You also need to by the dual injector that has the tips that fit in and turn the valves on each pot and the manifold.  First thing I would recommend is getting the Universal Heater that they sell.  There are a couple of reasons for this.  One reason is that the first thing I do when I walk into the shop is turn on the Universal Heater with my dual injector sitting in it and let it start getting hot.  While it's heating I then can clean the pots out from the residue from the day before and the injector will be up to temp by the time I'm done cleaning and heating the plastic up.  Another reason for the Universal Heater is that I run it's temp up to 325 on the digital control but I run the pots at a different temp. (more on this later)  A couple of other "options" that I opted for and almost didn't and am so glad I did after using the system.  You can get a mounting plate with holes all pre drilled and everything ready to mount it on.  I almost didn't get this but it made it very easy to set up in the shop.  I drilled 4 holes in the stainless bench that I have it on in the shop and mounted the plate with system on it and fastened it with bolts and wing nuts so I can remove it easily if I need the room for something else.  Another thing I almost didn't get and can't imagine using the system without is the locking brackets.  The way Rupert explained these to me is that they designed these for a customer that had a disability and had limited use of one arm so he need to be able to draw the plastic one handed.  The brackets make drawing plastic so much easier that I honestly think if you have a system without them you need to spend the 20 bucks or so and get them.  Instead of having to push in with one hand to seat the injector and pull on the handle and working against yourself and making it easy to suck air the brackets keep the injector firmly seated and you can draw plastic one handed.  Very slick and like I said I would hate using it without it now. 

 

As far as actually using and running the system it's pretty simple and straight forward once you get the feel of the valves and injector.  Here are some observations and tips from things I've found after running it a few months.

 

1. I seem to have the best luck with reducing dents, getting good laminates, not discoloring the plastic, if I run the digital controls on each pot set at 300 degrees.  (remember I set my Universal Heater at 325)  I keep my injector sitting in the Universal injector set at 325 the whole time I shoot.  I feel like by keeping the injector on that heater it will stay much much hotter and I have no problems with it plugging up.  It would probably work fine sitting in the middle cradle between the pots, but I feel like it keeps things flowing better when the injector is really hot. 

 

2.  I heat my plastic in the microwave and then add my coloring, glitter, etc before I put it in the pots.  You can heat from raw to workable temp in the pot, but it's going to take longer and you are going to have to turn the temp up and then back down.  I run on 60 ounce batches and it takes 12-15 minutes to heat 60 ounces of plastic to temp depending on the strength of your microwave.  I put 60 oz in each pot.  If I'm doing single color baits both sides get the same color, for laminates I have one color in each.  the 60 oz comes up to just under the top of the stirring paddles. 

 

3.  Cleaning is not as bad as I was afraid it was going to be.  All I normally do between colors is after the pots have cooled I peel what plastic I can out including the "puck" at the bottom, then spray the inside with simple green and wipe out with a paper towel.  When I take my plastic out of the microwave I turn on the pot heaters to begin heating the pots.  I don't do this before then because I don't want what is leftover in the channel to the valve and manifold to melt and run back into the pot before I add the new plastic.  After I get the colorant and glitter I dump the plastic in the pots and then I purge the manifold and injector by drawing an inch or so out and shooting it on the table.  Usually doing this 2-3 times and you are rid of the previous color and ready to go. 

 

I read on here somewhere about blowing the channels out with an air compressor and am going to try that pretty soon as that may reduce the amount of plastic I have to purge. 

 

Shooting Star vs Presto Pots

 

I started out trying to run two presto pots with a Basstackle Twinjector setup.  For what I do and my personal preference I can't imagine going back to the prestos.  I feel like I'm much more efficient with the shooting star (even though Frank could still shoot circles around me out of his Prestos, but that doesn't count because he is a machine)

there is no blending block to clean out and your injectors aren't submerged in the hot plastic

The shooting star is a pretty well sealed and contained unit so the smoke is very much reduced.  I still run a vent system, but I couldn't handle the smoke that the presto pots put out. 

There is very little waste when you are done with a batch and I always had a hard time with sucking air when I got close to empty with the prestos.

 

One thing I will note is that the single injector you can get for the system is kind of difficult to use with the system due to the push/pull thing I talked of earlier and the opening and closing of the valves can unseat the injector tip.  I have found the single injector extremely useful for doing remelts though.  I heat the injector in the universal heater and melt sprues in a big pyrex and just draw from the pyrex with the single injector and wipe it and sit it back on the heater between shots. 

 

After using it for several months I would say I'm very happy with the system and Rupert was very easy to deal with whenever I had a small issue and went above and beyond to get it resolved.  I also had him build me an air clamp that you can see on the right side of the picture of my setup.  This is a huge time saver as well not having to mess with manual clamps. 

 

Like I said, this is not meant as an advertisement, but mainly to give info on a fairly new system and to answer questions people might have that are on the fence about it.  If anyone has any other questions I'd be happy to answer as I'm sure I've left something off. 

 

 

 

 

Attached Files


  • camrynekai, Vodkaman, mark poulson and 3 others like this


#246362 Shelts Unpainted Bodies

Posted by Vodkaman on 20 November 2015 - 08:12 PM

Daniel - Usually when people join TU, they either introduce themselves or ask a question. You sign up and post two recommendations for Shelts within 3 minutes. If I was a cynic, I might suspect that your real name is Mr Shelt, but of course, promoting your own products in the forums would be breaking the site rules, if you had time to read them.

 

Dave


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#244512 2015 Coolest Lure Contest Winners!

Posted by Vodkaman on 15 October 2015 - 09:28 PM

R&L - you would have been better off not posting. So I am going to take my own advice and not spoil this thread with any more sour words.

 

Congratulations and well done to all the winners.

 

DAve


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#244415 Scale Pattern Idea

Posted by jrhopkins on 13 October 2015 - 09:32 PM

was having trouble finding the size of mesh for my smaller baits and it occurred to me to try the tissue printing technique for scales. googled fish scale patterns, found the size I wanted, printed on the tissue paper and glued it to the bait. turned out good. will have to see how it looks once I finish the paint job ( perch).

Attached Files


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#242773 Molds For Pvc Lures

Posted by mark poulson on 08 September 2015 - 10:21 PM

Being able to hand carve a lure gives you the ability to experiment.  By using PVC, waterbased airbrush paints, and UV cured resin, you can conceive, shape, ballast, test, paint, topcoat, and fish a lure in one day.

I think molding is for when you've got one that really works well, and want to go into production.

For some, it's the destination.  For others, it's the journey.


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#236553 Lip Size Vs Depth

Posted by Vodkaman on 15 April 2015 - 09:57 AM

RW - do not concern yourself about the questions. Even if the question has been asked before, it serves a purpose to re-address a question and see if any new ideas come to surface.

This is a very interesting question and was actually one of my pet projects in my early days of TU, when I attempted to write a spreadsheet for designing lures; were you enter in all your parameters and the sheet would tell you if the lure was stable or not, how deep it would swim, how wide the wobble would be and how fast it would wobble.

Everyone warned me that it was impossible, but that only encourages me. Actually some things are possible to predict mathematically, but there are so many variables that have to be taken into account. At the time, my limited knowledge was holding me back, but as my knowledge from testing improved, I found that I did not need a spreadsheet to tell me how a lure would swim, I could just tell.

Predicting the depth is one of those difficult features. This is because there is a lot more to it than the length, shape and angle of the lip. The most important variable in determining the swim depth is the tow eye position.

But, there is even more to it than this; the length, width, shape and curvature of the back of the lure has an effect. The length of the active edge of the lip, combined with the length, width and shape, all these features have an effect.

So, certainly predicting a swim depth with simple spreadsheet maths is not possible.

What you can do, is learn what affect each feature has on the depth of the lure. Think about how a lure achieves depth in the first place. Understanding these details is what experience is all about.

Here is an example:

A deep diver design, long lip, shallow angle with tow eye on the lip. There is an ideal position for the eye for maximum depth. Move the eye forward and the lure swims shallower, move the eye further back and the lure swims shallower.

Analogy - firing a cannon ball. There is an optimum firing angle. Fire too low an angle, distance shortens, fire too steep, distance shortens.

Back to the lure; The eye position is a balance of all the features that I mentioned above. This means that I can alter the swim depth by altering any of those features. Let's say you have a lure that has the perfect balance, then obviously altering anything is going to make the lure swim shallower, but what we can do is think of the change in terms of the tow eye position. Starting off with an easy one:

Shorten the lip length - effectively eye position moves forwards. Swim angle reduces, bait swims shallower.
Lengthen lip length - eye position moves rearwards. Swim angle increases, nose down, but bait swims shallower with a harder thump.
Narrower lip - eye forwards.
Wider lip - eye rearwards.
Thicker lip - eye forwards.
Thinner lip - eye rearwards.
longer body - eye forwards.
shorter body - eye rearwards.
Fatter body - eye forwards.
Thinner body - eye rearwards.
Rounder body - eye forwards.
flatter body - eye rearwards.

This should be enough to get you thinking about the design.

Dave


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#235596 Are All Blank Crankbaits The Same?

Posted by DingerBaits on 27 March 2015 - 10:51 PM

As a supplier of blanks, I can't say anything bad about any of the guys that sell unpainted cranks as I have ordered from just about all of them and have had great experiences. The only suggestion I can give is don't go through wLure. All of their baits are KO's of KO's and the quality isn't there. You really can't go wrong with ordering from any of the guys on here. 


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