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  1. Today
  2. The Whopper Plopper works excellent for big pike and muskies. I love fishing topwater lures of all kinds. As said in other form posts, I'm pretty sure those big dumb beasts would eat almost anything, any color, and any shape. It just has to be presented at the right place at the right time. All the extra fancy paint and carvings are to catch anglers like myself haha. I love the top waters in the post above! Keep it up, the bigger the better for muskies some days.
  3. I am going to be building one and was thinking of putting it on you tube as a step by step. It will require you to have: 1. Knowledge of casting metals 2. Knowledge of casting epoxy resin 3. Common sense, lol I have been mechanically inclined since the 1980s in the automotive field and see thousands of ways to make one. But I am gonna try to keep it as simple as I can. Email lockdownking at gmail and I will send you back a link. No need to subscribe. Not interested in building a following.
  4. Hi, Is this P/U board easier to shape, sand and carve than Forex, please? (I suppose they are not the same material :D)
  5. I am not familiar with using decking material like this. I have been intrigued by other comments using this stuff. I have only been making lures for about 1-yr and have only used Cedar up until now. Is this stuff the same as using wood? Weight, density, holding power, carving the same? Thanks for your input!
  6. If you make your plopper out of AZEK PVC decking, you can carve the tail out of it, too. Use the original plopper as a reference. Your bait will float on the pause, instead of hanging tail down, so it's a little more weedless.
  7. I have not used a Whopper Plopper, but I am fascinated by the design and hope to "re-create" my own version soon. It looks pretty straightforward with having the joint towards the back 1/3 of the bait. The challenge will be to come up with the appropriate shape to the tail version (rubber or plastic) to allow for proper rotation and action. Stay tuned, I will keep you posted on my results! One more story with regards to top water lures: I began serious fishing with a good friend while in Northern Wisconsin. His father gave us each a classic Injured Minnow. My buddy who had considerable prior experience was with me on the first evening about 2-hrs before dark. As we were approaching what looked like a good area to fish, a nice 4-5 lbs bass broke the surface near us. My buddy immediately stopped the boat and cast to the spot. As luck would have it, he managed to cast on the exact spot where the fish had broken the surface. In a split second, the fish was on the lure like stink on sh_t. He brought the fish to the net and I was "hooked" for life on top-water fishing. The shear action and terrifying crash of a big fish breaking the surface is all that it took for me. This of course only works when conditions are right and fish are actively feeding on the surface. I have zillions of lures as do most fishermen, but I have a special affinity for top-water because of this one instance and I have had many, many others in my old life!
  8. I bought a pair of Abu Garcia Pro Max 1600 reels recently. I also purchased bearing kits and different retrieve cogs. Is there anywhere online that shows the disassembly and repair of these reels? Thanks much Randy
  9. Gotcha! I’ll have to try it and see. Thanks!
  10. I also noticed that dipping in acetone seems to help smooth out the surface on resin lures anyway. Wayne
  11. I do the same process with my resin baits. Dipping in acetone is to clean the bait of dust, oil’s and any other residue. That way your paint sticks well
  12. Ballast calculator sent. Dave
  13. Yesterday
  14. I bet it would work I just don’t have any. Truth is when it comes to top water situations I have always reached for the fly rod. I have a ton of gear and I might own 3 top water lures This build will be expanding both fishing and lure building style
  15. I'm taking a couple out for a swim tomorrow. I'll try to remember to post my results. No promises. CRS!
  16. Ted, I use Zap's Zip Kicker. I bought the 8 oz refill bottle, and use a leftover piece of .051 sst wire, just long enough for the lid to screw on with the wire inside for storage, for my drip rod. Ben Siegel (Rayburn Ben) turned me on to it. He suggested it would let me use just a drop or two where I needed it, instead of wasting a lot by spraying it. He was right again! One drop usually does the trick. Here's a link to it at Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pacer-Technology-Zap-PT29-ZAP-Zip-Kicker-Refill-8-oz/148387039
  17. I've found that multiple thin coats of Createx, dried between coat with a hair dryer, really speeds up the painting process for me. I started out using solvent based paints (rattle cans) but the fumes were too much for me, even though I painted at the edge of my garage with the overhead door open. That's what drew me here to TU, and turned me on to water based airbrush paints. But I've seen some baits painted with lacquers, and they are amazing. The finishes look so deep, it seems like they are already in the water, so, if you can figure out a system with lacquers that works for you, I'll be very jealous! Good luck.
  18. Thanks for that info. I’ll try the white primer and see how that works for me. I appreciate the help.
  19. Forgive what may be an obvious question, but have you ever thrown a Whopper Plopper for those fish? Larry Dahlberg actually designed that bait for muskies. I think it would be the perfect surface lure for shallow, aggressive/defensive fish: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/River2Sea_Whopper_Plopper/descpage-R2SWP13.html Here in NoCal, big bass and stripers kill those baits.
  20. Yeah, that happened to me, too. That's why I started coating with the super glue. It's not perfect, but it helps. I've also found that heating the bait and then letting it cool back down before I coat it helps, too. I think it helps any left over solvents offgas. Lastly, I have begun using Rustoleum white primer (rattle can) as a sealer. It fills in the surface defects from sanding, and gives a smoother surface to paint over. I let it dry/cure overnight.
  21. Dave, I also usually add more lead than needed and drill and test, drill and test so a copy of your calculator would greatly improve the time needed to figure out the perfect buoyancy for the baits i am making. I would love a peak at it if you could send it to my email. Zachmtalbert@gmail.com Thanks a ton man! i cant wait to give my feedback! Zach
  22. So that's why I got bubbles when I added a little heat with a hair dryer! I wondered what I was doing wrong. Thanks!
  23. Smalljaw, Thanks for the info and explanation.
  24. Mark what kind of accelerant is it (name) and how do you apply it.
  25. I also use nail polish on my PVC trimboard baits sometimes, and there is no need for a sealer with that, since it's thicker and doesn't get absorbed. If I'm airbrushing my bait, then I finger on a couple of coats of runny super glue first, to harden the surface a little, and to keep any solvents still trapped in the PVC from bubbling up if I overheat it while drying the paint. PVC isn't without it's problems, but it's perfect of how I like to build and paint.
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