All Activity
- Past hour
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naga188vip joined the community
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I started with cheapest possible flush cutters & worked my way up to middle of the pack. Main difference was paying more for harder steel lengthened the time before re-sharpening was necessary. Also purchasing made in USA was a good way to express patriotic support for American mfg.
- Today
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Flaswimbaiter started following No action from bait?
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The lip seems a little far back. That line tie next to the lip should make it wobble wear as the one on the nose should make it shimmy.
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I don’t sand or file. I use a dull knife and wipe the blade across the mark left by the cutters. That flattens it out so it doesn’t show after painting.
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I just clean the mold with acetone then apply the high temp silicone where I want it. I smooth it out with a sharp straight edge and clean up any excess with a QTip set it aside for 24 hours then use it.
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Looks like the angle of the bill/lip is not down enough to me. That is where I would start, And the lip may need to increase surface area.
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dpz702 started following No action from bait?
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Im trying to make more realistic lures and im wondering if anyone can point out from this photo why my bait has pretty much no action. I placed weight almost exactly on center, its almost a slow rising and i also tried sanding the bib to give it sharper edges. I tried adding a second anchor point closer to the bib but it didnt do much. The only thing i can think of is angle or size/shape of bib is bad? Iv been making lures for a few months now and i really would like to get this right, i kinda ruined this one with superglue trying to add a second anchor point but its a good learning experience. Anyhelp would be appreciated and sorry if this is posted on wrong subject.
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dpz702 joined the community
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I did a Bojon search. I found a lot of interesting information I am going to try to expand upon. This has been a fun journey. Thanks guys
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This. ^. I've been suing the same two pairs of sprue cutters from barlows not only for lead, but for my tin bismuth as well. I'm probably going on 20 years. Everything from 1/8oz up to 20oz. Although at times the bending back and forth with a pliers works pretty well too. When trimming lead with the Barlows cutters, the sprues just fall. When cutting tin, those suckers go flying! Usually one or two quick passes with a file, or a high grit sand paper should do the job. I pass the head over the sandpaper, or just pass an aggressive file over the jig or weight or whatever. One or two passes should not create dust. I think if you go nuts sanding and filing , then, yeah. You'll create dust.
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I made two different colors. One was blue craw with Pumpkin Brown added, and blue and a tiny bit of green highlight, with the bottom color a burnt orange. The second one was MF Crawfish with brown pumpkin added to deepen the color, and again the burnt ornage under color. The burnt orange was made with Lurecraft orange darkened with brown pumpkin and MF brown. Both types came out kind of nondescript. Took them out of the molds, tossed them into a water bath. and when I went to take them out I could see them in the water. how the colors both seemed kind of natural. One was a deep brownish, yet seemed greenish with the blue craw. The crawfish colored one seemed to be almost a deep olive. Very natural looking. In the water both colors looked so completely different. I'm pleased with my results, but feel I could improve the colors. Maybe a drop or two of straight green? I didn't use any glitter because I wasn't sure what color to use. Maybe brown? Copper? Orange? Maybe I'll do a motor oil craw, and add sparkle blue flake? I got time to play around. Yet. It's not like I've never had experiments fail before. I'd take photos but doubt if they'd come out showing what I can see, especially in the water.
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The top photo looks as though some kind of highlight was added.
- Yesterday
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Nice! I have a mold the runs around the hook eye. What process do you use to add the silicone?
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This is very cool. THANK YOU!! Now I can imagine trying to match some of those colors. No thanks!
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I have been using a cheap pair of gate cutters from Barlow’s. I’ve cut several thousand sprus off and only sharpened them a few times.
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This is the chart I use as a reference guide when someone asks for a "crayfish" colored bait. Allen
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Need an accurate RC 1.5 and maybe a 2.5 stl
TerryF2858 replied to Mad Moose Baits's topic in Hard Baits
What program do you use fusion or something. -
Flaswimbaiter started following Fast floating Deep diving lure with no wag or wobble
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Fast floating Deep diving lure with no wag or wobble
Flaswimbaiter replied to pald9723's topic in Hard Baits
Any kind of lip will prob impart some action. I was thinking of a tear drop shaped lipless crank with a lot of forward weight. The fat bottom should keep with from wobbling. If you go with a lipped bait try putting the line tie way forward on the lip, this should kill the action. - Last week
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Arne started following Twisted Wire Eye Patent
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Looks like if you extend the loop out the right side insead of the left and y ou should be golden. Arne.
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pald9723 joined the community
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I would love some help with this design. You probably will think it sounds like a horrible design for a bass lure. That is because I am using it for snagging spoonbill from shore. Instead of the classic snagging setup of tying a weight at the end of line with treble placed a couple feet above, which rises when the hook is pulled through the water. I want a hook that goes downward through the water when yanked. so tying a treble hook a couple feet above this lure onthee line should work well. This design in my opinion is less likely to spook the paddlefish before the hook hits. So please help me with a deep diving, floating lure, with no wag or wobble. I would consider a cashapp donation for the help designing the product. Right now most snaggers use a boat with dipsy divers. These lures would be more for shore casting.
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Someone at the patent office is not doing their job! Dave
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Nor did he/she invent it. There is an element of folks out there than will try to come up with something like this so that they may recover damages later by a maker utilizing a technique. I heard about one out there that posted multiple images of largemouth bass online. When a Bass Club utilizes an image, they go after the Club and settle for a fee.
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Filing lead can create hazardous dust. With practice and a proper quality tool flush cutters can be used to shave off the sprue break or cut scar high spots.
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I refurbish my Swanstrom cutters with flat EZE Lap diamond sharpeners, the cheap plastic handle ones work OK but the extra fine grit can wear out quickly, so best to start with a coarser grit(s). My cutters have an adjustable gap to prevent blade clash dulling. Its important to flat sharpen the cutting edges of flush cutters like the original and avoid creating bevels.
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Do-It WMF-6-A (Weedless NED Mold). Hooks other than Victory 10777?
Ogajiga replied to RobTube's topic in Wire Baits
What's wrong with the Victory hooks ? -
Slammingjack started following Midwest Finnesse Jig Mold (MFJ-6-A)
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midwest finesse jig Midwest Finnesse Jig Mold (MFJ-6-A)
Slammingjack replied to Yak_addict_785's topic in Wire Baits
The way you help people is why I buy most of my products from you. Thank you for what you do.