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  2. While I am not the OP thanks for posting I will be contacting you this week. Allen
  3. Cool project for you both. Keep us updated on your progress!
  4. Hi! We specialize in fishing tackle packaging and all of our equipment and supplies are all made here in the US. Feel free to visit out website www.blisterpackaging.com or give us a call at: 800-341-5961
  5. We can help with that. We specialize in fishing tackle packaging. All equipment and supplies are made here in the US. Here is our contact info: www.blisterpackaging.com 800-341-5961
  6. Hi Gray! Visit our website www.blisterpackaging.com we can help with your packaging! 800-341-5961
  7. We specialize in fishing tackle packaging and everything is made here in the USA! Give us a call we'd be happy to help. www.blisterpackaging.com 800-341-5961
  8. Hi Keith, We specialize in fishing tackle packaging! Visit our website or feel free to give us a call. www.blisterpackaging.com 800-341-5961 You can ask for Bob
  9. We specialize in fishing tackle packaging, and can definitely help! Visit our website or give us a call! www.blisterpackaging.com 800-341-5961
  10. I have a handful of molds to make your own plastic baits, they are Caney creek molds, now owned by DO-IT molds, I'm listing them at 20% less than retail shipped, they are in perfect order and can be seen on do-its website to show finished baits. first picture is 1. caney creek croaker 3.5" (retails for $54.50) $43 shipped https://store.do-itmolds.com/Caney-Creek-Croaker--35_p_72.html 2. small fry 1.75" (retails $69.50) $55 shipped also have a laminate plate for this, allows for shooting separate belly colors $25 shipped https://store.do-itmolds.com/175in-Small-Fry-br-12-Cavity_p_144.html 3. super fry 3.5" (retails $119.50) $95 shipped. https://store.do-itmolds.com/35-Super-Fry-10-Cavity_p_224.html 4. stinger 3.75" (retails 59.50) $47 shipped https://store.do-itmolds.com/375-Super-Stinger-5-Cavity_p_153.html 5. wutz-it 5" ( retails 89.50) $71. https://store.do-itmolds.com/Wutz-It--5--4-Cavity_p_81.html not pictured 1 injector for use with the injection molds, $30( essential for use with these molds) 2 hand pour jig/dropshot baits( minnows) $25 each 1. stinger 2 3/8" $60 shipped multi.JPG
  11. Might wanna take a look at Jacobs.... they are at least pneumatic powered.... cost a lot lest that a big auto machine... not sure about shipping to Australia. http://stores.jacobsbaits.com/injection-machines/
  12. Little more info on the bait I dissected... B1 is the large ballast and fixed in placement - it weighed 2.1 Grams B2 is a "rattling" ballast - able to move back and forth laterally across the bait - .095 grams B3 was a very small ballast weight... did not remove it - but couldn't be more than - .1 -. 2 grams at most. The bait is 86mm long - measuring tail (not hanger) to end of lip - the lip is approx 27mm in length.
  13. The only "semi auto" injection machines (that still require an operator and a lot of input, maintenance etc) are the full size $30k - $60k production machines that use $6k - $10k molds. They are very large and would no doubt cost an arm and a leg to ship. As far as the bubbles we would need to see a picture of the molds and the problems you're having.
  14. Ok, I made a second foray into my garage sale stash for this weekend looking for you some electric red worms. Nada, but I did find another 100 pack of electric blue, 2 15 pack electric blue and 2 15 packs of black blue. Are you interested in any of these?
  15. Hey Girls_Hunt_Fish_2k I am cleaning out my deceased father's garage. I found a box with 2 package of 100 7 inch purple gator tails, never opened. (1) 15 count pack of same, never opened..and 1 15 count electric blue, never opened. Are you interested? Not sure of shipping costs. I'm located in central Illinois
  16. Hey Guys - Starting to lineup my winter projects!!! So on top of new softbaits, kayak mods and everything else in life - I felt the needed to take a crack at the "hunting" crank bait. While I like to think I have a very technically sound understand of engineering principals... half of Dave's posts started to go over my head!! LOL!!! Being a more visual person.... I put together a small diagram based on a crankbait that I cut in half. Figured I'd start with something that's know to work perfectly - then see what I can do to screw it up!! Just looking for a little feedback regarding if I've read the posts/assumptions correctly and if I'm heading in the proper direction. I would like to utilize a deep diving bill... which from what I read could be more of a challenge - I may back off that a bit and angle it down a little - but if at all possible I'd like to make this bait dive down a solid 8 feet. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. My plan is to CAD up this bait and run the halves in ABS through a 3D printer. Thinking about screwing the halves together at first which will allow me to open/move the ballast around as necessary.... might even make the lips attach in a manner I can just remove/replace as well instead of trimming so I can be more precise in knowing how much I've taken off, etc. Plus I can just run a bunch in the machine and know exactly what is different on each. Any feedback would be great and when I get further along through the fall/winter I'll post up my progress. Thanks! J.
  17. Hi, I am recently shifted in Oregon and I need HDPE Tubing, do you have any reference of any local distributor? Previously I was living in Michigan and used to order my HDPE Tubing from: https://www.spiratex.com Thanks!!
  18. Driftwood


    If you are having trouble centering the stream, find a Lee's pot to try pouring with. (Haha, some of us older guys aren't so steady these days.)
  19. JBuff


    What appears to be bubbles is actually the contraction of the plastic when you drip or miss center. By design the "rings" are cut to prevent capturing bubbles, I've poured thousands and can honestly say I've never had an air bubble in a ring. One thing though if you fill too fast you may see some air trapped at the top just below the reservoir. It should take in a 5" about 5-6 seconds to fill the cavity, fill backup and top off the previous pour (eliminates dents). As I posted previously practice hitting the center and you'll see this go away with repetition. A tip for success is to get in the habit of always holding your pyrex at the same height and always start with a narrow stream.
  20. I get the same size bottles (20g) here in Indonesia. It is imported from China, named Kenko. I buy 5 at a time for $1 each. Yes, they last a long time, showing no signs of going off. Dave
  21. Enforcer has um .. https://www.enforcerbaitmolds.com/product-page/2-inch-swim-bait-mold
  22. Costly it is. I'm stepping out of my comfort level on this after using Devcon for quite some time. I tried the concrete sealer deal also, but the smell just kept hanging around, and it sometimes reacted with some of my paints, so I quit that for now. I still have a can of KBS to try and see how that goes, so that's next up. Also, I just coated 3 SK swim bait KOs with uv, and had a few fish eyes on each, vs zero on the cranks. I wasn't expecting that. The cranks had a textured finish, the swimsuits were slick. Seems nothing is the perfect fit. Definitely something to consider.
  23. Grisley

    Alumilite UV?

    I’ve dipped pop maxes and similar baits with gill slits in the alumi-uv. You can either clean out the slits with a toothpick before curing it or clean them out afterwards with a dremel. The only problem with clearing them out before curing is that any clear coat that you get in the passages inside of the gill slits won’t cure. This leaves uncurred resin in the passages that would need to be rinsed out with some isopropyl alcohol. I’ve done both , but now I usually just clean them out with a dremel after curing. I just didn’t like the idea of having the uncurled resin sitting inside the passages of the bait and having to flush it out with alcohol, which could soften the topcoat.
  24. Can you dip a pop max in the Alumilite UV with success without clogging gills and other holes in the mouth of the bait?
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