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  2. Grisley

    Alumilite UV?

    I’ve dipped pop maxes and similar baits with gill slits in the alumi-uv. You can either clean out the slits with a toothpick before curing it or clean them out afterwards with a dremel. The only problem with clearing them out before curing is that any clear coat that you get in the passages inside of the gill slits won’t cure. This leaves uncurred resin in the passages that would need to be rinsed out with some isopropyl alcohol. I’ve done both , but now I usually just clean them out with a dremel after curing. I just didn’t like the idea of having the uncurled resin sitting inside the passages of the bait and having to flush it out with alcohol, which could soften the topcoat.
  3. Can you dip a pop max in the Alumilite UV with success without clogging gills and other holes in the mouth of the bait?
  4. Your cream, opaque colored baits are ABS but your clear ones are made of polycarbonate. If you have clear ABS then you actually have MABS and its impact characteristics drop considerably. The nicer baits are actually sonic welded together as it is easier than glue to control and will allow the bait to run truer out of the box.
  5. Thanks Mark. I found some that will work for me and bought a 1000. thanks again
  6. The main drawback to uv polyester resin seems to be the cost. If you use, say, 1/4 oz of resin on a bait, you get 28 baits out of a 200 gram bottle of DecorRom resin, costing $22 or so. Alumilite Alumi-UV resin is similarly costly. The Solarez resin is much cheaper but contains wax flakes that leave a white haze on the lure when cured. If your pocketbook can stand the strain, uv cured polyester resin is a really fast and user friendly, very durable topcoat.
  7. I just started using DAP Rapid Fuse for sealing wood bodies. So far so good. It is carried by my local Walmart for $4.97 for a 0.85 oz. bottle. I have one bottle that I have been using for 3 months and it has not gone bad yet. https://www.walmart.com/ip/DAP-RapidFuse-All-Purpose-Adhesive/52199544 The baits I make tend to be on the larger size (5" to 12", 1 oz. to 5 oz.). So, I like using a larger bottle superglue.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Heres my first go at it 2 1/4" long x 2" wide, 1/8" thick lexan, 3/4 oz sinker Pool test went well.... tried 4 different tow points and ended up using the hole 1" from the front edge, any further back and the contraption wiggles like a crankbait, i figure thats wasted energy that would take away from the max diving depth.... only have a few feet of water in the pool since we're getting it ready for winter, so to test the diver i cast it across the pool, let it sink to the bottom, and then see if i can lift it off the bottom by lifting the rod instead of reeling..... no dice... the thing hugs the bottom and comes back to me no matter how hard i tug at it The real test will be my next trip to the lake... not sure when that'll be, sooner than later if i can help it
  10. Finally got around to this project, and i might have nailed it on my first try...... tested in the swimming pool by casting across, letting it sink to the bottom, then lifting up on the rod instead of reeling... it hugs the bottom no matter how hard i try to pull it up..... now for the all important lake test, stay tuned
  11. Here are some on TW: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Punching_Skirts/catpage-PUNCHKIRTS.html
  12. I use ZAP, because I can get it, and their accelerant, in bigger bottles. https://robart.com/collections/zap-glue-zap-cas
  13. I think Lime Green would be a safe bet. That picture almost looks like 2 colors. Like maybe watermelon base over clear with the flake.
  14. Using them to seal wooden lures. Like you stated. SO you can get a few lures sealed per bottle? That is a pretty smart idea so the larger amount doesn't harden or go bad.
  15. What is the intended use? I buy mine at Dollar Tree. 2 bottles (0.28 oz total) for 1 dollar. So a little over 7 bucks for 2 oz. Don' t have to worry about bulk going bad once opened. The bottles don't clog or dry up easily. More controlled dispensing. Easily can coat a few balsa bass cranks, glue line ties, etc...
  16. Found some on Amazon: Bob Smith 103 Insta-Cure 2oz Super Thin - $10/bottle on Amazon Starbond EM-02 Super Fast Thin, Premium Instant CA (Cyanoacrylate Adhesive) Super Glue - 2 oz - $10.75/bottle Any other choices or better places to buy? Use is to Seal wooden lures mainly.
  17. All depends on what firetiger's your trying to match.
  18. Does anyone have a recipe for the green in firetiger? Thanks!
  19. just wanted to give my 2 cents. I am very new to lure building and painting. I purchased the big combo Air Compressor, IWATA from Amazon. It came with a small set of paints. I tried them about 5-6 times and was getting terrible results, I thought I was just downright awful at painting. I was very fortunate and found some Createx and Wicked paint sets at a great price all new. Talk about night and day when it comes to painting with nice paints compared to the cheap ones that came in the kit I bought. Literally blown away. I have no idea about other brands, but I will say the there is an incredible difference when comparing the super cheap paint to more expensive paint.
  20. Came across this post and wanted to say I am 30 and just got into custom lure building. I will say Marling Baits on YouTube is the main reason. I will have a ton of time this winter and have started acquiring tools. I will say FB Marketplace and LetGo has been incredible in getting the more expensive tools super cheap. I am going to make a post with everything I have so far to see if i am missing anything. I made my first one quickly this weekend eyeballing it to see how the tools work. Its so satisfying. I didn't even put the hooks on yet, can't even imagine catching my first fish on a homemade lure. Just wanted to say I love this forum for all of the tips. look forward to having a very enjoyable hobby this winter to really learn and make something that I can be proud of, from the design to the painting.
  21. I still have some and I can check if you like
  22. Do you have a design in mind and just need it modeled? Do you have a grade of material picked out? Or are you just wanting to pay for all the engineering work to be done?
  23. They did ok without a lure turner. I had a small amount pool at the bottom of one, I think I applied too much, but it was no problem. I thought about a drop wire on the tip, but when It dries, it could be difficult to get the wire out. It dries so fast when you put the light on it, I just don't think a turner is needed. I do let it level out a little, maybe a minute, before I expose it to u v light. You could use a hand held light to set it up before you hang it, but I'm holding off that for now. This is new to me, so I'm learning as I go, but the results so far are very good. I do use gloves when I handle the lure to keep skin oil off the lure, which is also a good thing to do when using epoxy.
  24. I have used both BSI and Devcon 2 ton with good results. Initially I had some issues with the epoxy sometimes being a little lumpy. A couple of things that I do are: I always thin the mixed epoxy with a few drops of denatured alcohol. This helps it spread better and also seems to help bubbles to rise out. After mixing and adding epoxy, I let it set for a minute or two for bubbles to rise. I may be kidding my self, but banging the bottom of the epoxy mixing cup on the table seems to help bubbles to rise. If I use glitter in the epoxy, the presence of the glitter seems to break up bubbles. All that being said, 30 minute epoxy only gives you a few minutes of working time. A mistake that I’ve made is trying to clear coat too many baits at once. I have found that I can do a good job brushing on and spending evenly two baits, before the epoxy starts to cure. When I’ve done three or more, I’ve always had to refinish. When I’ve had gaps or bubbles, I’ve waited 24 hours, then lightly sanded and recoated with epoxy, that I’ve thinned a little more than usual. Also a bait turner is essential. I leave baits on for eight hours.
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