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  1. Today
  2. Looking for Delsmart twintail mold.
  3. Don't try to buy molds or injectors from overseas. Buy from USA companies only. If you're going to buy an injector, buy a basstackle.com injector. Which brings up another topic, don't go cheap on your molds and injectors. They're like tools, buy a quality one the first time and you won't have to buy it again in the future. You don't want to buy a mold and have to modify it yourself. If you buy a mold and it doesn't shoot right, ask for a refund or replacement. Trying to modify molds yourself will probably lead to frustration (unless you have a lot of experience) and then you'll probably quit the hobby. Companies like Bait Plastics and Basstackle.com have been good to me.
  4. Never used resin much... but 2 part urethane foams I have used over the years for some lures. Balsa used in cranks is typically 10 to 12 lbs per cubic ft. You can get 10 lb per cubic ft urethane foam.
  5. I know what you mean! I'm trying to get back into lure making but seeing some of the paint jobs here make my best efforts look like caveman art. Makes me look at my old Paasche H with somewhat lessened enthusiasm.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Balsa varies in density from 0.07 to 0.2 were water (neutral = 1.0) specific gravity (SG). Resin with micro balloons is 0.65 at very best. A huge difference. The effect of SG is one of those things that you have to gain experience of. Best advice; construct first prototypes as close as possible to your final material SG. This is important stuff. Dave
  8. The amazing white resin from alumilite is said to be beginner friendly compared to other brands... i used it with absolutely no prior resin casting experience and had fine results with no problems Others like the smoothe on featherlight stuff, but i havnt tried it so i cant comment As for RTV silicone, ive used alumilite (the pink stuff) in the past, no complaints... but now i order the blue RTV 45 from Spike-It/Lureworks simply because i order other stuff there too... it works fine as well
  9. @mark poulson Thanks man! I think it turned out pretty decent. On the drier right now so should look even better with epoxy topcoat. You know, I was in Virginia in April and May for work on Ft. Eustis. They had a big lake there that was part of their outdoor recreation program. You could rent kayaks and canoes and get a license to fish the lake as well. I got one of the licenses and spent each day on my lunch break and on the weekends out there fishing. Killed the bass with a white chatter bait but that is beside the point:) Anyway, one of the first things I noticed is that they had giant common carp in there. It got my attention because carp fishing here in Europe is big business. One day I was walking through the woods around the lake, making my way from spot to spot, and I saw a dead fish on the bank. I got close to take a look and low and behold.....it was what I know as a "Brachse" or "European Bream". I was like "What in the hell is this doing here?" The European Bream is a type of carp so I assume that maybe they made their way over there at some point just like the commons, mirror, and Asian carp did. The one I made looks more like what you will find in England but the one I saw in Virginia was the kind we have here in Germany. See below.
  10. lm22

    Molding A Crankbait

    Thanks for the advice. What silicone and casting resin would you recommend?
  11. You could definitely make a mold of it and cast copies in resin with microballoons added. BUT, you probably wont get the same action out of it as you do with balsa. You can only add so many microballoons to the resin before it starts affecting the strength and rigidity. Adding ballast is easy and you have a few options there. You could pour in something like bird shot or bb's into the mold while you are pouring the resin, you can drill holes and fill with melted lead, or you can drill holes and insert solid lead or any other heavy metal of your choice. I pour my resin copies with about 9.5% microballoons by weight and it gets the buoyancy right around the poplar i use for carving. My guess is balsa would be closer to 11% or higher but i really don't know. Never made or tried to replicate a balsa crank or any crankbait with resin so im just speculating here. Good luck in your search!! Edit: Listen to vodkaman, he knows his stuff!
  12. Your main problem is material density, you will never get the resin bait to swim the same as your balsa prototype. Balsa is extremely light, and with the ballast reasonably centered you can expect a very lively action. With a much denser resin material you will find the waggle a lot more subdued compared to the wide balsa action. For a first attempt, keep it simple, just mold the body, cut the lip slot and holes as with balsa. This will allow you to experiment with positions of holes and slots. Once you have a prototype that you are happy with, then you can then think of refining the mold design for efficiency. Dave
  13. I have made a crank bait out of Balsa that I like the action of. I have a template that I made of the side profile, but I can't make the crank bait body exactly the same from wood. Can you make molds of a crank bait body out of silicone and then make them out of resin. If so, how would I get the lip and weight into the crankbait? What silicone and resin would be best for it?
  14. JRammit

    Ball head spinnerbaits

    These are poured in a do-it ballhead jig mold, i modified the 3/8 oz cavity to accept an o'shaughnessy hook and just ran the wire out the sprue hole and carefully cut the sprue away from the wire... r-bend is from a wire bending jig i made from a 2x4 and some nails...... cool trick, if you smash a ball head in a vice it becomes kind of an asprin head, on which you can apply stick on eyes, then coat in epoxy
  15. Looks good! I have no idea what a European Bream looks like, but do know what good carving looks like, and this is it.
  16. JRammit

    The "J-shad"

    This design is based off one of my oldest successful crankbait designs, with a few tweaks... i thinned it down to 1/2" (from 5/8"), shortened the body length to 2 1/2" vs 2 3/4", elongated the belly to more closely match a shad profile, and changed the lip thickness to 1/16" vs the 1/8" which was all i had at the time i built the original...... the main design aspect i kept was the tail of the body being slightly higher (1/8") than the nose, this kinda makes the whole bait "lean" into the lip angle, and pushes the curvature of the back further to the rear..... the original dove up to 8' deep and had a desirable mix of "x" and "y" rotation, but was lacking in vibration and "thump".... This model is slimmer (less body mass) but also shorter (less diving surface) so id expect it to dive to a similar depth, and in pool tests it has plenty of the "thump" lacking from the original.......... this seems to be a solid design, meaning that every prototype i built (4 total) ran true with the same lip/tow point formula... lip 1/2 the length of the body, tow point 1/4" out from the nose... this allowed me to fine tune for the action i wanted instead of just trying to get the thing to swim............ finish is foil under pearl silver belly and black/gold pearl back with yellow "vein"
  17. Well here it is guys. First attempt at a European Bream. Pre epoxy.
  18. I'm also a carpenter and have worked with my hands my whole life. I have made some molds from blanks, But I can not get what I need by hand. I wish I had access to a CNC machine, I have lots of ideas I could create. Thanks and keep an eye out for me please.
  19. What companies are best at making custom molds for soft plastics an what’s the cost on a 20 cavity mold . I kinda new to this been making custom baits as a hobby an some of my baits have never been on the market . They are my own creations of how I fish an I’m ready to try to get them in other fisherman’s hands . I’ve made several molds with plaster an silicone just to make prototypes but that’s not a real effective or efficient way to make baits an it’s kinda aggravating any help would be appreciated.
  20. Man, you're way ahead of me! Of course, my kids will tell you that's nothing to brag about. Hahaha Time for a dumb question. Can you take one of the Do-It mold blanks and just carve what you want? I'm a carpenter, so I have no idea what's involved in doing something like that.
  21. That is very generous of you, but I'm not able to do hand carving anymore. Old hands taking their revenge for too many years of abuse, I guess. But I still enjoy seeing the beautiful stuff you and the other builders on this site make. Keep it up!
  22. OIR

    Tell me what to buy

    aluminium molds are the top best white stone molds are ok pale stone mold need a lot of lube. mixed color mold are crap. Dual Color Hand Injection Kit (get the big mixing block)
  23. Last week
  24. I did that 1 month ago... That is how I know when it was made. Look>>> https://custombaits.com/index.php?topic=12052.0
  25. Ive always heard the only difference between an alcoholic and a drunk is that alcoholics go to meetings.... not sure if this site counts as a meeting, but here we are Im not a fan of Nike anymore, but just do it... knowlege is great, experience is super great.... and the good thing about soft baits is the fish dont notice when you screw them up.... not so when you get hooked on hard liquor, i mean baits.... too many lures too little time (that should be somebodys signature post)
  26. @TootsMalone @mark poulson @Saugerman @KennyP @Vodkaman @eastman03 @Travis and @anyoneiforgot if you guys are ever in Europe let me know before hand and hopefully we can meet up and I can put you guys on some fish.
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