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  2. Thanks guys, next question. With these new alloys, does the slag break off like lead, or does it need to be cut off? I have ordered the release spray...
  3. BobP

    Etex conditions

    If you have tacky areas, there are 3 possible causes. A bad batch of epoxy, not measuring exactly enough, and not mixing well enough. Of the 3, mixing problems is the most prevalent. You can let Etex sit for 15 minutes before application if you want a thicker coating. Your humidity is not a problem as epoxy is formulated for a nominal 70 degrees and 50% humidity. Etex is good stuff but it contains solvents to thin it and promote bubble expulsion, which makes it more prone to fisheyes than other epoxies.
  4. As Smallie says, Plaster of Paris (or Durhams) is a great way to learn the ins and outs of the molding process without spending huge $$$$. Never pour excess down the drain or you will be spending huge $$$$. Dave
  5. Plaster is a cheap way to get into mold making and it is available locally. Go to Home Depot and get water putty. It works like plaster of Paris but is stronger. The bull worm is a good worm to start with because it has a flat side. This is what I do but there are variations that will work as well. You will develop your own process if you keep making molds. My process may take longer than others but being retired, I don't rush anything. Go fishing if you can't keep yourself from fiddling with the mold. Superglue the flat side down to a container. I use the Styrofoam containers meat is packaged in at the supermarket. Mix up the putty and cover the glued down bait. Let it dry overnight and carefully remove the mold from the rest of the pieces. The mold has to dry and then be sealed. Some people put them in their vehicle this time of year to do this. I usually set the mold on top of my oil fired furnace and wait a week. Once dry, you can seal it in a number of ways. I prefer to use Elmers white glue that is thinned with water to a 50 - 50 mix. Pour it in to fill the mold cavity, let it sit five minutes and pour the glue out. I like to take some of the glue being poured out and wipe it on the surface of the mold with my hand. I set the mold upside down on newspaper with wooden skewers as spacers to keep the mold off the newspaper. Let it sit overnight and remove the now stuck on skewers. Roll them to release rather than pull them off. Let the mold dry another day and it is ready to use. As I implied above, you can find ways to speed it up if you want to.
  6. I'm a little late to the dance, but better late than never. For my perch senko baits, I use Lureworks Scuppernong for the amber color, and a baby bass or green watermelon for the green. Light of course. For the amber side I have tried amber, mustard, and a few others. Scuppernong seems to work the best. Orange glitter in the amber part, and green glitter and a tiny biy of black for the green part. I think the glitter I use is Emerald Green. Weight is around 10.5 grams. About the same as yamo weight. The laminate comes out somewhere between a perch color and a pumpkinseed sunfish coloring. Has been deadly for me.
  7. Haven't been on in a while, but taken some advice from you all. I beat the hell out of it , stir and stir some more, and seems to work out ok. Not a fan of the stuff, but I have a quart and it will last me until hell freezes over. Once hell thaws out I will go back to the M-F hardener.
  8. Just bought some from Lure Works about a month ago. Is it discontinued or out of stock?
  9. Yes, I understand the trial and error... But I don't pour plastics. I'm trying to get this figured out so the guy I have make them for me has a starting point... Not getting much advice here.
  10. very hard to tell until it gets mixed and poured .. just make small batches til u get it rite .
  11. Thoughts on less green pumpkin colorant and some of this? It's not the hi-lite... https://www.lurecraft.com/Pearl-Turquoise-Powder-Pigment/productinfo/1X751/ This is the hi-lite https://www.lurecraft.com/Super-Hi-Lite-Luster-Pigment-TURQUOISE/productinfo/1X289/
  12. Possibly, but not likely we live in Tennessee and this is an older bait , we dont have a cabelas, I hate it when baits dont have brands on them, years ago I went through an old tackle box that my dad had and it had alot of baits I'd never seen before, they had nothing to identify what they where
  13. Welcome to free enterprise. It will peak and the numbers will fall off. Same goes for plastics. Repackaging is king in so many. It will be alright. The big boys have been doing it for yars.
  14. Man, I'm stumped. In the past I've used a drop of runny super glue on soft parts of baits. It works, sometimes.
  15. And the basketball courts are a joke with all of the players out there. Just like the golf course, the football fields, and the baseball diamonds. But the cream always rises to the top doesn't it? Most of us recognize true tallent, don't we? "How bad you want it?" Skeeter
  16. https://www.lurecraft.com/SUPER-HI-LITE/products/17/ Mike they make a turquoise highlight powder. I have no idea what it looks like but I do use the blue powder for white baits to give them the pearl blue glimmer look. Allen
  17. Could it be a Cabela's house brand bait? Allen
  18. Facebook is a joke with custom baits period. Like you said everyone that has been painting for 15 minutes is spraying the same Chinese blanks. Jigs and spinnerbaits are the same way with some being just a BOSS pre-made skirt on a BOSS jighead.I use to pick up some decent lures from the Fishing Flea Market and Bass Baits Buy and Barter. Now they are just flooded by 500 different guys trying to sell the same thing and fighting each other for scraps. Go onto one of those pages I mention and post you are looking to have some crankbaits painted and see how many replies you get, Allen
  19. Then the wire frame does not fit at all. I have moved on to other projects now and will revisit this in the future. Allen
  20. Yesterday
  21. Can you send them my way as well please.
  22. Heat the spring pins with a lighter ... and it will melt into the elaztech ... Insert the heated pin and twist.
  23. Hope your plan B gets better results Dave I still have some tweaking to do with my special projects. The few designs I will be starting with are 100% my own but not ground breaking in my opinion. There is promise in 2 designs that are versatile and just straight up catch fish. I just see it wise to test a smaller market before I think larger production. Not getting excited with hope of quitting my day job yet
  24. I already have two coats on it, of Etex. Don’t want to do a third. Sanding some off wonts help, just the tacky areas? I let both parts sit in the mixing cup for a few after mixing. I’ve read that it won’t run as much this way. What do you think of this?
  25. I've had E tex pull away from sharp edges. I stopped that by coating the sharp edges with D2T, out 1/4" past the edge for lap, and the coat the rest of the bait with E tex, lapping it onto the 1/4" strip of D2T. Try coating the bare spots with D2T, and then recoat the whole bait with E tex. I had problems with E tex not curing when I didn't mix it enough, or let it sit for 10 minutes after mixing. I think letting it sit allows the two parts to bond completely. This is what the tech at E tex told me when I call them You can apply a second coat of E tex over the first one that had the uncured stuff, and it will cure out the uncured stuff as the second top coat cures. That way you save the bait. I hope this helps.
  26. I am having trouble getting the Etex curing on lures. Never had this issue b4. I work in the basement. We bought a dehumidifier that brought the number from 71 to the mid 40’s. Is this critical? I wipe down the pieces with an alcohol swab before applying. I wear gloves as well. To keep oils from affecting the coating. I still get spots where it has pulled away from a spot. Very troubling. Should I sand off epoxy and start again?
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