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  2. 21xdc

    Shelts blanks

    I have ordered from them many times w/o any issues.... I'm patient.
  3. Not identical, but close. https://www.btsmolds.com/swim-bait/608-swim-bait https://www.btsmolds.com/swim-bait/609-swim-bait https://www.btsmolds.com/swim-bait/7-swim-bait-2-cavity
  4. Yesterday
  5. Sdunn

    Shelts blanks

    I have gotten several orders from them also with no problem. I would be happy if they would just respond with an ETA. Maybe it will work out.
  6. Sdunn

    Shelts blanks

    I understand it takes several days from China. My problem is that I had to order the same blanks thru AliEpress and they are selling them for shelts. I ordered and got an ETA from them and a notice the next day they were shipped. If alieexpress
  7. azsouth

    Shelts blanks

    I wish I could answer your questions exactly but I can not....All I know is that sometimes they get here in 2 weeks and other times are a lot longer....5+ weeks! I have received everything I have ordered from Shelts.
  8. Sdunn

    Shelts blanks

    I understand it takes several days from China. My problem is that I had to order the same blanks thru AliEpress and they are selling them for shelts. I ordered and got an ETA from them and a notice the next day they were shipped. If AliExpress is selling the same blank why is mine not shipped? I'm needing my orders and I'm beginning to think I'm out 180 dollars and the rest of my hook order also
  9. There are tons of heavy wire jig hooks, it just depends on specifics. Are you looking for a 60 degree, 90 degree, 30 or 45 degree? Flat eye, regular eye and do you want just a wide gap or an extra wide gap (EWG)? I'm asking because there are wide gap hooks that are not EWG and EWG hooks that are described as being a wide gap. For 90 degree there is the Owner 5316, a 2X strong version of the 5313 bit is only goes to a 2/0 and then there is the Trokar TK-840, it has a large gap but also a sproat bend so in addition to it being a heavy wire it is also stronger because of the bend. For a 60 degree regular eye hook I'd look at the 4/0 Gamakatsu 2034, it is an EWG style hook with heavy wire, 45 and 60 degree hooks with the EWG bend are typically shorter because the extra wire for the large gap is taken from the hook shank. Flat eye hooks there are a few good ones that will work. My favorite is what I use for my power finesse jig which is a 3/8oz ball head jig with a 3/0 Eagle Claw 2706 which is the same as the Mustad 32796. Then you have the Gamakatsu 5941, and the Trokar TK-805. If you want the EWG style hook in the flat eye there is the Mustad 38108 and the VMC 7328. The Bitsy Bug is nothing special, I believe it is just a 2/0 Mustad 32786 but I may be wrong, but the point is there are very few heavy hooks custom made for finesse jigs, most use a regular jig hook in a smaller size to keep it compact. I make a 5/8oz flipping jig for grass, it has a Mustad 32786 6/0 but if you looked at it in your hand you would think the hook was a 4/0 as it is compact for a 6/0 hook. Part of that is because of the head but the other reason is the 60 degree bend but if you give me some specifics on what type of hook you want based on the parameters I gave you along with what mold or head you want, I'm sure someone could recommend a hook that will work.
  10. not that exact one but I did try the rainbow chrome, even after watching countless videos on how to properly put it on....I personally had no luck.
  11. azsouth

    Shelts blanks

    No problem with the rant, Sometimes shipments get held up from overseas.... just be aware of that. You might be able to order your blanks through Amazon, it would be worth a try if you are in a bit of a hurry.
  12. Does anybody make a wide gap short shank heavy wire bass jig hook for a finesse type jig or are they all custom made ? something like bitsy bug or a few other manufacturers size with type, hook etc. I have tried searching and haven't come up with anything Thanks
  13. KennyP A bit of advice with your pursuit of a life like action. Something I have found when someone is building a lure is they have this vision on how it should move. We often get caught up in trying to make the lure track perfect and keep consistent action. What I have found over time these are not the lures that out produced others. They look good and often do catch fish but they are just OK. The most productive lure I ever created now sits snagged on the bottom in 160ft of water. It out produced anything I trolled for Lakers. It was actually a reject that split well drilling a pilot hole and rather then tossing it I just did a random re shape. It had a random action I cannot duplicate. It seemed to fight it self every which way and randomly take off 4ft to the side then track back to center. It was a complete spaz and far from natural What I am getting at is in your search for a perfect natural action don’t overlook your mistakes a long the way. You maybe trying to fix a lure that will out produce the one in your mind. Always let the fish be the judge
  14. LureWorks Methiolate 132 Methiolate is a pinkish shade of fluorescent Orange. If you dont want to invest in a new colorant then you would be better mixing fluorescent orange and fluorescent pink, although depending on what you have it may be hard to match the transparency of the single pigment. Good luck.
  15. Anyone know the formula? Lurecraft sells what looks close but not exactly. I've mixed orange with a drop of brown and it's close. A merthiolate Slider Worm caught bunches of fish first time I tried it, but Charlie Brewer doesn't make Sliders in that color any longer.
  16. Hillbilly voodoo – Good comments. In my early days of lure design and building, I too had a ‘wall of shame’, lures that just did not work. Once I understood more about what the water was doing, I was able to take the lures off the wall. Duplicating a successful hand carved lure is a problem. I am actually considering writing a post about ‘reverse engineering’, the fancy word for ‘copying’. The root of the problem is that it is very difficult to accurately duplicate the exact 3D shape, it will look close, but any slight errors will change things. You can get all the features close enough by eye; shape, lip size and position, ballast location, hook positions, tow eye position and so on. But, the one thing that you have not duplicated is the buoyancy of the lure. If you get say the width wrong by 0.5mm too big then the volume of the body increases by as much as 5%. Add to this all the other body shape dimensions that were very slightly off, and you end up with a significant error, and a lure that floats or sinks faster. Also, add to this any differences in the wood density. If the buoyancy is wrong it does not mean you have to alter the body shape, you can simply adjust the ballast to achieve the required buoyancy. To determine the buoyancy; you could float the lure and make a note of how much sticks out of the water, or you could measure more accurately by performing the ‘Archimedes dunk test’ which I posted under the same name. Yes, sounds complicated, but once you have done it a couple of times it really is easy. Each feature of the lure generally has two adjusters. As stated in the previous paragraph; body shape and ballast are matching adjusters, and ballast is easier to adjust than body shape. Another adjuster pair is lip length and tow eye location, decide which adjuster is easier to adjust. KennyP – thanks for the nice comments, and good luck with your project. CNC – this stuff is not for everyone, it is just another way of looking at things. People know what I write about, if not interested then simply move on. Experience is a powerful tool, but it takes many years to attain. On the other hand, knowledge is a lot easier and faster to attain. Put the two together. Dave
  17. VM, I got annoyed a long time ago when you were trying to analyze and describe hydrodynamic flow, but some folks seemed to want you to stop. I rather enjoyed your discourse on the subject and wished they would just move on if they didn't want to try to absorb it. It was some great stuff. I've looked at a number of similar subjects since and I think always understood them better because of your attempts here to explain.
  18. Last week
  19. I use the baking soda and superglue as Nathan stated when the lure will have a white belly. Baking soda and superglue dries to an off-white color and doesn't leave a shadowy spot beneath white paint. If I am filling a deeper hole, I fill it partially with baking soda, add the glue, let dry and repeat until I get built up. It dries real quick. I use epoxy on baits that will have a non-white belly. I typically will mix sawdust in with the epoxy. I have a couple of ziplock bags of saw dust of different types of wood collected from when I clean my belt sander. If I have a big hole to fill, say due to moving the ballast to a different spot, I will make a plug out of a small dowel and epoxy or glue it in. Likewise, If I put an screw eye in the wrong place, if will fill that with superglue and a toothpick, trim flush and seal with more superglue.
  20. Thx. So clear I don't think the fish could see it.
  21. Try filling the area with backing soda...Then kinda of smooth it out and add thin super glue..(Not jel..you want it to penetrate the baking soda).. let dry and sand smooth..Nathan
  22. Epoxy works for me. Fill it just a little proud of the lure and then sand it flush.
  23. I have used a hot glue gun to fill and glue in...
  24. I’m trying to find a better option for sealing my weights in lure blanks. Right now I’m using plumbers putty and every now and then it’s cracking my epoxy topcoat. I believe it’s because of the hardness of putty and it’s pushing out on epoxy and cracking it when it gets warm out. Any suggestions?
  25. Vodkaman, thank you for your technical expertise and being able to break it down Gumby style so I can follow along. I started this hobby with a goal in mind. I wanted to be able to make a lure that looked and acted as realistic as possible but was also functional enough to catch fish. I haven’t been at this as long as most of you so I have done a lot of research, most of it here on TU. I have spent time, more than I would like to admit drawing out ideas only to do more research and find out my ideas were not all that original, there goes fame and fortune . But, I would also like to say that I have learned a lot, things I would assume the average lure maker doesn’t know. Conversations such as this have sparked quite a few ideas, more than I have the time to peruse. The knowledge I have received from reading up on vortices here on TU, just enough to give me an idea for a lure I have drawn dozens of concepts of over the last couple of years. Just recently I got to the point where I think I have something close enough to try as a working model, time will tell.
  26. Dave: I would like to have your ballast calculator. Seems great¡¡¡¡. Not sure if I have to include my email....just in case: diegovillarreal2000@gmail.com

     

    Thank you¡¡¡

    Abrazo. Diego. 

     

    1. Vodkaman
    2. calden

      calden

      Received¡¡ after rescuing it from my spam box¡¡¡. Works fine. Thank you. Diego.

  27. Voodkaman I also have to give you credit for your ability to explain the technical aspect of lure making. It has helped improve my understanding of things as well. Unfortunately it has also sparked new ideas I have to try now lol Good news my present prototype has been moving forward without out a single hiccup because of it. In about a week it will be tested to see if the fish agree
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