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  2. both heads where cured ,pro tec pwder paint. aztek is water based paint by testor. i m just looking to find a good brand that will stick to powder.for details ,scales etc notings beat airbrush and paint, but what is the best brand that is the question
  3. Today
  4. I am a little confused as well? I airbrush over cured powder paint all the time. Mostly just throat accents on spinnerbaits or swim jigs. Had a weird reaction once using some rattles can paint over powder. Sprayed some automotive clear over the powder before the rattle can paint and it fixed the problem. Allen
  5. I just like the paint jobs and wire tied skirts too much to just toss them. Plus, they have a really good hook, so I reuse them instead of tossing them. It's really easy to put an eye bend in the wire close to the head, clamp that eye bend into a vise, and then use a pair of needle nose vise grips to do a couple of wraps with the tag end around the base of the eye. A dremel with a cut off wheel gets rid of excess wire, and, Wham (Deadpool reference), you're done.
  6. I've made some of those, too, but I think the Arkie head jigs make a better head for those. The blade hits that head, but not the thin spinnerbait heads. That thin head helps the swim jig pass through grass and tules better, too.
  7. I have hand dipped oiled sections of pin flags cut to the length needed & inserted them into molds then after shooting pulled the pin flags & have a redneck core shot.
  8. I've used lureworks, calhouns & baitplastics. I'm using baitplastics right now, but i'd say lureworks medium in the box is my favorite all the way around. Baitplastics medium is a little soft for me on some baits so i add some hard to it & it does great. I just realized a 2014 thread was revived.
  9. MF makes an "easy stretch" that I love for trailers and swim baits... Fairly soft and super durable... Look it up.
  10. I don't do 3D printing. I barely type. But I carve lures out of PVC, so I have some experience with trying to achieve a particular action. My rule of thumb is rounder lures have roll, flatter sided lures don't. Something to do with how the shape affects the water as it flows past (thank you Dave). If I were you, like Wayne said, I would make some wood mockups of different cross sectioned lures that were otherwise similar in size, length, lip, and attitude in the water, and begin to experiment until I got a shape that acts the way I want it to, and then do my 3D printing based on that lure.
  11. ddl, I guess I'm lost on what you are trying to accomplish. Here are my questions. #1 Are you powder painting lead head jigs? If so, you can put other powder paint over the first coat, or multiple colors and then bake your jigs. Your powder will not rub off. It will however wear off over time by dragging the jig on the bottom of the lake. #2 What is Aztek gold? Is that a brand of powder paint? #3 Is the black a powder paint? What brand, and did you bake it. Once I can get some answers, maybe I can help figure out what is going on.
  12. Yesterday
  13. I am green as grass on this subject, so as with many newbies, I could use some help from some experienced people to be open to share. I was intrigued by the thought of getting samples from some suppliers. I assume that by a sample they would supply pieces to feel the different soft to hard mixes of their product. Am I correct? Do you find that most offer this service or is it pretty rare. I have a restricted income so I can't afford to keep trying different plastisol to find the right hardness. Any ideas? Are there any here that might be willing to send me a scrap of one of their pours and the company they use. I'd be willing to pay for the postage . . . I assume would be the same as mailing a letter. What do you say?anyone out there wanna help an old man out? Thanks in advance, Roger
  14. for some reason was sure the aztek was ok . it is really stange since ive ab aztek gold to a black powder painted head and it stick more than anything i have ever seen it is kind of a fusion . so ive tried the same colors but that time over white and it peel like gloves ,just need scottowell and windsgield washer and it is fully white again . im totally lost . what should i do and why from hero to zero ? extreme moisture maybe ?? ive got no words to explain it
  15. core shot in this mold .. Hmmm ?
  16. Maybe I am using the wrong term but I was envisioning using a rod to create a cavity in the plastic to shoot the second color through. so shoot the body color with the rods in the bait pull the rods out of the baits trim the body so the the hole runs through the full lenght. replace bodies back into the mold. shoot the contrasting color.the plastic goes through the hole in the first color and fills in the tail.
  17. One thing I do when I look at a mold is visualize, think about where the plastic will go looking at the runner and cavities one one side. So for a core shot, we would pour an ounce or two of hot plastic into the runner followed be an injection. In this mold, that ounce or two would go down that runner, fill the bottom cavity, might get a bit in middle cavity followed by shot. That’s exactly what you would see in final baits. Bottom cavity would be pour color, you might get some core effect in middle cavity, top cavity would be shot color for the most part. That’s why every mold doesn’t do core shots well.
  18. What about doing a coreshot that should give you a pretty cool effect with that mold.
  19. ddl

    lead sheets questions

    tks for all of you
  20. A friend used to remodel hospitals. He got sheets from Xray rooms. I broke off the dry wall then used my fish cooker and a cast iron pot (outside) to melt it down and burn off the gunk. I poured it into ingots. It was really soft lead.
  21. also old shower pan liners and roofing material.
  22. All- Great info. I appreciate all the tips. I will be pouring again tomorrow and will make sure I give them enough time to cure. I will also try to boil the baits that are bent.
  23. I have some and have processed three or four 4x8’s. I took a high pressure spray washer after mine and some industrial degreaser. This took most of the old adhesive and drywall and whatever else is sticking on them off. You can use the most aggressive nozzle you have. The summer heat dries them out pretty quick. Take a shop hammer to them to lay them flat. once dry, I used a sheet metal scissor to cut them into strips and rolled the strips up to get the pieces manageable. Into an outside pot they went. Lots of flux and skimming off anything that comes up. Get upwind. After a pot of it is clean, ladle into a muffin pan where the ingots will fit in your pour pot. It will be good stuff. Mostly used in X-ray room construction.
  24. Yep like mentioned. Lead sheets are usually soft. If you want to know how soft it is, take your fingernail and see if you can scratch it to the shiny stuff underneath. If it scratches easily it is soft. As far as anything with lead acid batteries including posts, I would pass on those. Take the sheets.
  25. Last week
  26. I have 300+ lbs of sheet lead and it's soft... I never saw any plastic on mine. Peel it off first if you can. If not, I'd melt it in a junk pot and pour ingots to use later in your good pot.
  27. are the lead sheets are almost pure? i can get some but the guy told ma that there is a kind of lil plastic film on .is that something that should be hard to remove or i can put it straight into my lee melting pot ?? the guy also got battery pole is that a better option than the sheets ? tks in advance
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