Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Today
  3. What thickness do you guys measure for your inline spinner blades? The #4 blades I've purchased have a thickness of 0.018" compared to some commercially produced spinners with #4 blades at 0.027". Not surprisingly the commercial blades are quite a bit heavier (2.0 g vs 1.3 g) The spinners I've made with these blades seem to work but have less resistance when retrieved. The blade outline and profiles are very similar and I'm not sure if the thinner blade moves easier through the water of if I'm getting less blade motion or a different blade angle. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated as well. The my bead and hood are identical to the commercial and my body is similar (slightly shorter/wider) and, if anything, would cause more drag than the commercial body. For illustration here's a (brass) blade I've purchased stacked on top of a (copper) commercial blade. There are very slight differences in blade profile but I would think the decals the commercial guys put on some blades result in more difference that what I see between these two blades. Thanks!! -Tim
  4. Many Eyes

    20” SS Lures

    20” mantle piece bait.
  5. I can think of two ways. Put dye in a thick glue type epoxy like Devcon Two Ton, daub it on and , put on a lure turner for an hour, then allow it to cure for a day.. Second, put dye in some UV cured polyester resin, daub it on and cure in a UV lamp or outside in sunlight for a few minutes.
  6. Looks Like Lightning Through The Transparency , Great Job.
  7. That’s One Sick Looking Bait , Kick A$$ Work. Mike
  8. ZimmerBuilt

    50mm 3.2g

    Balsa wood lure made by Chris Zimmer

    © Chris Zimmer

  9. I use Alumilite as well and if you are buying small quantity it can be costly. Buying in large quantity it’s not bad in my opinion and I build larger baits I have not tried featherlite because controlling buoyancy through different ratios of micro balloons and resin is a big part of how I build. I have used Smoothon’s version of alumilite white (can’t remember the name) and it was brittle compared to Alumilite and more prone to bubbles in my opinion. I don’t know what you pay for Alumilite vs smooth-on resin but for larger quantity Alumilite is cheaper for me even with shipping it from across Canada one thing I did find with Alumilite products shopping around is important because of price differences. I have seen 2gal of Alumilite white with up to $300 difference in price here in Canada Outside of smooth-on and Alumilite I don’t have a different resin option for you. I can say for my use Alumilite is a better option then smooth on
  10. I have been building baits out of Alumilite products and it is really nice, I really like the way the baits come out, but it is a little pricy, is there something cheaper beside Alumilite products As anyone used Feather Lite lightweight urethane casting??? I have watched some videos looks pretty good but not sure how good it is Thanks Gino
  11. Does anybody have a recipe for the Gene Larew electric blue color they would be willing to share? I'm looking for the electric blue color they discontinued, years ago this thing was completely loaded with flake.
  12. This is a latex poured crab with a felt shell and foam-covered claws. The foam claws rise slightly while underwater. The bottom is weighted with non-toxic wire so that it always lands right-side up.
  13. Travis, thanks for the response. I really appreciate it. I'm glad you mentioned about having the DWP a little more runny. I'm definitely going to do that with the top half of the mold for this bait. And thanks for the response about the injector. Kind of what I was expecting to hear, just nice to get verification.
  14. RM3

    split ring size

    I think you answered your own question.............. If you look at a per piece price on most hardware, generally speaking, cost difference is minimal between "cheap" and quality.
  15. I always wiped it off but find Johnson's paste wax or Mann's Ez Release easier to deal with. I mix thinner typically more like cake or pancake batter. I wan't it to run as it fills in detail better. I don't use and injector very often but mine doesn't lock, just take care and all good.
  16. Mark, yep that's the stuff. It still says rock hard on the can. And it is good stuff. As far as working time goes, I'm new to it as far as using it to make a mold goes. IMO it sets pretty fast. Working time before it starts to set, I don't know? 10 minutes? As I said in my initial longggggggggg post. I mixed it pretty thick, pretty much the same as if I were patching sheet rock with it. You might be able to extend working time if you mixed it a little thinner. I'm not sure though. And OIR ..... I did your suggestion of boiling water. It cleaned it right up with only the expected softening of the outer layer of the mold. And it was only a slight softening. So thank you for that suggestion. Just need to let it thoroughly dry for a couple more days and then I can seal it and try and shoot some baits. Or at least shoot some baits when my order from Lurepartsonline.com get's here. Gonna place the order tomorrow. Hopefully be shooting baits this weekend. While I'm here.... if anyone has used the hand injector that Lurepartsonline sells, what are your thoughts on it? It says the nozzle isn't secured with a locking pin. Does that present a problem other than I'll need to be a little careful while using it?
  17. How long is the working time before it begins to set? Can you add something to extend the working time?
  18. Thanks. Back in the 60's and 70's, when we used it on construction jobs we called it Durham's Rock Hard Putty. Good stuff.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...
Top