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  1. Yesterday
  2. keep going..............$6500 - $12,000 for production molds
  3. I have the essential series ripper 3 " mold & don't have a problem with dents.My buddy does at times though because he gets his plastic a little to hot. If i'm around & keep him inline it's fine. lol
  4. How can I buy Tungsten lead

  5. From what i’ve gathered on my own similar journey, you want the body to be buoyant and then add ballast to the belly to get it to sink at the desired rate. This keeps the bait upright, and the mass towards the pivot point on the body allowing parts like the tail to move more freely. personally, i use poplar. Its plenty buoyant and doesn't take too much lead to sink. Also are you melting lead, or drilling weight holes and inserting solid weights. If solid weights, you could always go with a denser metal like tungsten so you don't have to use as much. I'm no expert by any means so please correct me if I'm wrong. Good luck in your search! Love the baits btw!
  6. Those of you who paint aluminum framed reels, what would you recommend as a good top coat for use in an airbrush?
  7. I have one of these, model 60329. I am in need of a pressure switch and they do not make replacement parts for this model. Is anyone aware of a compatible replacement switch for this model? Thanks in advance.
  8. my complaint with the essentials series has nothing to do with the finish of the baits, at least the 2 I have simply don't shoot as well as any of the cnc molds I have. the 3" cnc ripper (single cavity which im not a fan of either!) is damn near impossible to get dents in, temp doesn't effect it too much,. shoot it slow, shoot it fast it comes out perfect. the es 3" ripper, I have played with that mold a ton, very tough for me to get a dent free run out of that mold.
  9. @Travis Thanks for the response man! Yes I will be carving the details on this one. The problem I have had in the past with Linden and baits this size is that I have to put so much weight into them that I can't just put it into a couple of spots. Unless I want to drill all the way up into the middle of the bait I have to drill and fill multiple holes along the length of the belly just to get the lure to sink. I have always heard that you want to keep the weight low but, I am willing to give anything a try so if you think that drilling fewer holes but making them deeper would work for a bait like this I will surely give it a try. So, how would you go about weighting this thing? Thanks again!
  10. OIR, you always post some neat ways of doing things. Thanks
  11. Good idea. I've looked for some cookie cutters that i like to do the backs with, but haven't found any yet.
  12. To me it seems like you have the right ideas & location to make things work out pretty danged well in my opinion. I'd want to open early & have a good breakfast bar/ deli too if it were me doing it. The bait making on the spot is a good idea too. Sounds like you'll be fine & good luck.
  13. I personally don't have any problem whatsoever with the essential series molds. Color recipies can be adjusted for artificial stone molds so no doubt they be on sandcast molds too. You guys steer everybody away from these molds when infact they're a great option for somebody wanting in as cheap as possible or just experimenting to see if they want to go all in.Personally i think nice & shiny is good, but absolutely not necessary & it's not like the baits these molds produce are all that dull either. Of course it's everybodys own choice on what they purchase.
  14. I may have been lucky i don't know, but i have several artificial stone jig trailer & craw molds & have never used any oil at all. I did try the paint thing, but it didn't work out to good for me so i just cleaned it off & went back to shooting them without any oil & have made a bunch of baits with them & haven't had any problems.
  15. If carving details I would be using linden especially if you are planning on weighting anyway.
  16. Last week
  17. Thanks but i am actually looking for the transparent type
  18. I use a Twistech for my wire needs. However making forms with one is pretty damn hard. You would need to start with a wire form made on the bender and work from there.
  19. I think Del-Mart can safely be considered out of business at this point?
  20. Buy baits that you will fish. If you intend to make them to sell, buy as few types as possible, with as many molds/cavities of those few types as you can. Making 300 creaturebaits when you've got a 2 cavity mold isn't going to cut it. You're going to want to be able to shoot a dozen to twenty or more at a time.
  21. I've got quite a few Fat Guys Fishing molds. You definitely want to go to their Facebook page and browse through their posts then message them. They spend no time keeping their website current.
  22. Let me know if you find some for sale. Allen
  23. Hey TU Folks! I drew this up this morning and want the end result to be a single piece, fast sinking jerk bait. I've got some oak, some spruce, and some linden laying around but the linden and the spruce may be too light for such a big bait that should sink fast. I'm just wondering how some of you folks would approach this? What wood would you use and where would you weight it? As always thanks for all of your help!
  24. Yeah, uv polyester resins require specific uv wavelengths to cure. Maybe your light isn’t the right range. As an alternative, you can put them outside for 10-15 mins and sunlight will do the trick, even on a cloudy day.
  25. First, check to see that your uv lamp is the right one for your resin. Then, use more than one light. More light, closer to the bait will speed up curing.
  26. I recently am trying out uv cured resin for clear coating it is taking a long time to cure under a 10 watt uv lamp anyone know why it is taking so long I have heard it is suppose to take a matter of minutes but it is taking hours what am I doing wrong?
  27. I have struggled with the same problem for a long time. Fast cure does not allow degassing so what do you do. If you are using urethane resins like RC3, store in the driest place you can. Moisture is a killer and will cause a lot of bubbles. I have seen that firsthand. Older resins that have been open for awhile produce way more bubbles than resin just opened/unsealed. Next solution sounds like BS but has helped me big time. Put baby powder in the mold first, close it and shake. Open the mold and let the powder out. I usually slap the two sides together to get it out. This should leave a really light coat of powder in the mold. Now pour you resin. You may still see the bubbles but most will be just under the surface and not popped on the surface. My baits are not perfect, but this reduced surface popped bubbles by about 90%.
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