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  2. Used some rattle can Durachrome once and that's the one and only time I've ever had DN wrinkle. Solvents are notorious for not playing well together. A lot of the procedures we use to make lures is really nothing more than a "witches brew". We use a lot of things in ways that were never truly intended to be used in the way we do. The thing you have to do is isolate where the problem started and don't do that anymore. That's easier said than done a lot of times, but unless you have a degree in chemistry or can afford to employ a lab full of chem techs then it's the only choice we have. good luck................Ben
  3. Did you use a solvent based primer, like a rattle can primer?
  4. i have the angling ai little hammer mold, which is a 2.75" swimbait, 4 cavity and a fairly large runner, with 4 individual sprues for each cavity (hard to explain, but it takes a decent amount of plastic, check the pics on the ai site) and it fills very easily with around 2oz of plastic. i would think with a normal sprue/runner, you would be fine with 6 or 8 cavities. the 3.75" version fills with about 2.5oz, just for reference.
  5. Yesterday
  6. I do it as a hobby, too. I understand wanting to try to get as close as possible, so you don't waste either plastic or mold making material. If you want to get close, weigh some similar baits, and then weigh 4 oz. of plastic. Figure out how many similar baits it takes to weigh 4 oz. You'll have to subtract some for the sprue, and there will be a little waste anyway, but that should get you close. It is not an exact science. Be prepared to fail. We all do. If you make a mold with too many cavities for your injector, you can always eliminate some cavities until you get it right. Remember, perfect is the enemy of good.
  7. thanks mark, im just doing it as a hobby for fun so im not in a position to have a lot of waste so im trying to keep things in sinc as far as not too big or too small
  8. I thin my KBS 10 to 15% Wayne
  9. I usually make 6 cavities for smaller baits, with individual sprues. That way, if I run out of plastic, there will still be some baits that are good. If you're making a one sprue/multi-cavity mold, I'd probably only do 4 cavities with a 4 oz. injector. If it's still too much for your injector to fill, you can always block off one cavity at a time, until it pours right.
  10. Could the MCU need to be thinned?
  11. I’m looking for this style bait keeper. I just need the keeper not the hooks. If anyone knows what they are called or where I can find them I would greatly appreciate it
  12. im going to make a mold for 3" (80mm) paddle tail minnow swimbaits i dont want to make too many or too little cavities per mold but im unsure how far the plastic goes i have a 4 oz injector so that is realistically only going to hold 3.5 -3.75 oz of pouring plastic when full so with that in mind what can that fill in one shot? 3 cavity, 4 cavity, 5 or 6 cavity? i would like to do a 5 or 6 cavity mold but not if i cant fill it in one shot thanks for your help
  13. Ya got me. If the MCU is not pooling anywhere on the baits, the only other cause I’ve heard of is wet water based paint - which doesn’t exist in your case.
  14. Using KBS Diamond clear and just let drip no turning, no problems. Wayne
  15. While I am spraying my lures after each color I have a bucket of hot to warm water with some soap added and blow the brush in and out of the water till clean, then using a little of brush cleaner and spray it till empty. I take apart the brushes when I start to have the slightest problem, just don't want to fight it and screw up a paint job. It takes no time at all to do. Like mark said when you think it is blowing good clean it and then see the results, you will be happy you did it . Wayne
  16. I tear my gun down and clean it completely between each color. But I am shooting lacquer. I don't want any chance of colors being mixed. Skeeter
  17. Mark , you need me to test a plopper while you heal , Laughing , Those look Great. Mike
  18. Last week
  19. Since you're the one who turned me on to Airbrush Restorer, I'll give the acetone backflush a try. Thanks.
  20. After doing the initial cleaning with water I always flush and back flush with acetone. Maybe once a year I will clean with airbrush restorer but have never encountered the kind of crud your talking about. Acetone is your friend. Ben
  21. When I'm done cleaning and back flushing.... I shoot 1 cup of xylol/xylene through my brush..., Then soapy water, then water... I never break down my brush's... I'll take the needle out once and a while and wipe them down with xylol/xylene...
  22. This is a confession. I am lazy. I thought I had a really good air brush cleaning system that was fast and easy. I typically backflush my air brush with clean water after each color during each painting session. I do a final backflush when I'm done for the day, using first Windex and then water/dish washing liquid soapy water, wipe down the needle, and then shoot some more soapy water through the brush before I hang it up until the next time. I only paint once a month or so, whenever I get the urge to make a bait, so my air brush sits in my hot garage a lot. I've never had it work so well that painting wasn't a struggle. After having to paint with high pressure only in my last painting session, I decided to do a thorough cleaning. Last night I shot and backflushed some Createx Airbrush Restorer, and then broke the air brush down completely and soaked the parts overnight in the Restorer. This morning I went back down into the garage to finish the cleaning and reassemble the air brush. As I removed each part from the Restorer, I used Q-tips and a fine wire to clean each individual part, blowing air through each part as I went along. I have never been this thorough in my cleaning process. Wow! The amount of old paint I removed with the thorough cleaning process was amazing. It was like blowing your nose when that sinus problem finally clears up. I have never seen that much old paint in my brush before, but, then again, I've never been that thorough before. I won't make that mistake again. The air brush shoots so well now, with a full spread spray instead of one side or the other being heavier, I'm inspired to paint again soon. And I just broke down my other Iwata HP-C brush and put it in the Restorer to soak until tomorrow. So "don't neglect your earmuffs, Mr. Longbottom". This may be old news to you guys, but it was a real eye opener for me.
  23. it is a good air brush, good starter for sure.
  24. The powder sprayer looks like it works pretty slick. I looked into the "tapping method" as well and I will try that for some of the fine detail work. I'm doing something similar to what Tally is doing only trying to use less paint. The salt and pepper shaker just sparked an idea. Once the main colour is painted, maybe I will try and add some fleck with a secondary colour using a shaker. Thanks for all the info!
  25. Check out the Angling A.I. 5.75. 4 cavity jerk bait mold. It may be what you are hunting.
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