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  1. Yesterday
  2. Just an idea for dipping/sealing if your lures are that long, you might try a pasta jar off eBay. Many of the have airtight seals.
  3. ive got 2 lil can of these but my lure are too long to dip. i'll try to find something like tennis ball container or something like that. that's what ive tried it was full of big particle that didn't dissolved whit the 4012. is that the opaque white that you talking about ?
  4. One of those things you need to dial in. As mentioned hook selection will play a roll and bait shape. Any shaped bait can get the action but symmetrical baits always easier. French fries were some of the first baits we would weight and get to shimmy on the fall. Well exaggerated shimmy more of flutter. I find plastic softness to be critical as takes a lot less forces to get the bait to move and the longer senkos about the easiest to get moving. I just play around with adding more softener to the the baits but then you really end up with one and done baits (if that matters). One of those baits I don't pull out to frequently as would rather find more active fish but that doesn't always happen.
  5. I have used the createx a lot just thin it some and good to go. You want the highest solid loading that you can spray essentially. I have also dipped baits in Zinnser primer, let drip then rotate, much thicker coat and can hide sloppy finish work on a bait.
  6. Mark - I agree; flat or even slightly concave will help. Dave
  7. Just a dual injector, the mold is just one cavity, the bait is horizontal at a right angle to the sprue and belly up.. When we shot it the blending block was parallel with the bait with the dark color to the outside of the sprue. Here is a picture of the mold just for reference. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiB49qA54fjAhVIwcQHHTNxDegQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F96021-New-Do-It-Essential-Series-6-Paddle-Tail-Soft-Plastic-Injection-Mold-%2F112603177963&psig=AOvVaw0VykdLDFdbZ3kc2diwNNBm&ust=1561661060709803 The shape itself is absolute pike candy.
  8. hey fellow lure makers what brand did you suggest me to cover quick and easy ? i was going to use createx opaque white but it was as thick as pasta dental and it was new, i have no ides what happened ,first time that i see that.i don't even know if it's a good one or not. for now the only white that ive used is aztek ,and it look like it took forever to make opaque finish tks
  9. Have you checked out the LPO textured Air-Trap skirts? Their #735 dirty pumpkin works really well out here on the CA Delta for both jig skirts and spinnerbait belly colors. It looks like either a crawdad or a bluegill. http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Silicone-Material/Ventilated-Air-Trap-Skirt-Material.html
  10. For me, my rule of thumb for paddle tail swimbaits is the longer and thinner the tail shaft, the stiffer the plastisol I use.
  11. A flat belly, and raising the ballast partly about the centerline of the bait, were the keys for getting my spybaits to shimmy on the way down. Maybe that was from alternating vortices. I use VMC weighted hooks on my paddle tail swimbaits, which have a rounded belly, and they rock side to side on the retrieve, but they don't seem to shimmy on the fall. Maybe a swimbait with a flat bottom would shimmy.
  12. How were you able to get them to pour like that?
  13. I guess you could use a dedicated epoxy syringe to force the epoxy down into the hole, provided you use Barry's vent hole method so there is no air trapped under the epoxy. Mudhole sells epoxy syringes. Cleaning the syringe afterwards would just be a matter of flushing it with denatured alcohol.
  14. Anyone ever tried this; and if so, how did it work?
  15. So the new Dual injector showed up and yes it had to be tried. I though I only had one mold that would do a laminate correctly, but since the ES 6" paddletail is one of our favorites we had to try. The initial guess was that since the plastic has to turn a corner we though the best we would get is swirl, needless to say we were surprised when we cracked the mold. There is still work to do on the color , the goal was baby walleye this iteration is probably a half decent baby bass The other thing is my 25 year old microwave just does not have the juice for 2 cups of plastic , so it needs to be replaced, what sort of wattage should I be looking for.
  16. I had a stone mold of a shad impact that would shimmy on the fall. But, I got rid of it because it always had a bubble right at the nose. It was one of the first molds I tried and it shimmied. No other jerkbaits have that I have made. So, I bought that mold again. No shimmy so far. Same plastic. I think I need to play around with hooks. I could try adding the HD sinking additive too.
  17. Hello, My name is Wayne and I have recently joined the forum. While searching the internet for some soft VIB molds I came across the UT and saw some very interesting posts which I'm sure will be very helpful as I gain more experience. I'm am new to soft plastic making and would like to try making some SP VIBS. At least that what we call them here in Australia, we do have some slightly different terminology than the US in some instances and this maybe why I cannot find what I'm looking for. There are times when I'm using soft plastics in deeper water 90ft + that it takes to long for the plastic to sink into the strike zone near the bottom. To overcome this I have been using weight soft VIBS similar to those in the picture below. A Jackall knock off. I would like to have a go at making some myself and making my own colors. Could any members recommend a place to buy a aluminium injection mould for this type of lure/bait? I have search in this forum and the net for only one result. This set comes with 2 molds so you can make the harness and then do the injection however, the seller has been unresponsive so that's why I'm looking for alternatives. Any comments appreciated. So much information here I can see hours of reading coming up. Cheers Wayne
  18. Last week
  19. C'mon man!!!!! LMAO!!!!! I've asked you for the colors you have used already. On a serious note though, I know the natures edge colors pretty well, they are one of my favorite series.
  20. Smalljaw has all the skirt material catalogs memorized. Allen
  21. All Eyes

    Old warts back to new

    Beautiful as always.
  22. I saw a gentleman on youtube make a thing like an icing bag. Basically he cut the corner off a clear sandwich bag and used it to shoot epoxy into his lure holes. Just tossed it when he was done.
  23. First you have to understand what causes shimmy; a phenomenon called 'vortex shedding'. These are vortices that form around the falling object and alternate from one side to the other. Unfortunately, there is a minimum speed before the alternating vortices start. I can't give you any numbers, sorry. But, I can say that a wide, flat worm will start slower than a round worm. To demonstrate, drop a ball bearing or a metal rod into a bucket of water and it drops straight to the bottom. Repeat using a coin and you will see the difference. Dave
  24. I tried to accomplish different "shimmy" actions via different blends of plastisol but because of the configuration there isn't enough density of material to make a noticeable difference. Personally I take 10 penny nails and cut the head off and insert in the bait. Depending on where I can get to swim in a circle or fall backwards on a dead stick.
  25. Braided Line

    Pumpkin Shad

    That puppy would be a killed for Bass in the St John`s river! To bad we`re not neighbors ….that way I could prove it.
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