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  2. Good comments. Keep searching for that bit extra that will make your lure more desirable than the rest. I know, it is not easy chasing rainbows, but not impossible either. If you don't chase the rainbow then you are unlikely to stub your toe on the pot of gold Dave
  3. I just check Basstackle it looks like they have Injectors in stock
  4. I just check Basstackle it looks like they have Injectors in stock
  5. Excellent points, these. Presently, it's taking me roughly 3 hours of actual hands-on work, per lure. The bulk of that (probably 50%) is spent painting. As I get better at it, and paint more than 1 or 2 baits at a time in the same pattern, this time will go down. Much of that painting time is spent cleaning the airbrush between colors. My target price point to enter the market with my first lure is $60. After taxes and materials costs, that leaves me about $45ish profit. From there comes income tax, plus time spent keeping the books, responding to customers, processing orders, t
  6. Today
  7. What was the name of the parts house in New Jersey that became Mudhole. Anyone old enough to recall?
  8. Bait Plastics(Polysol) & MF if you like ordering straight from the manufactures. Dead On if you want repackaged plastic from a hobby supplier. Also BP has free shipping, DO don't.
  9. Look into Taig CNC machines... I have one and use it for everything, molds, baits, boat parts, etc.... to get into CNC you're probably at 2K and upwards.... there are A TON on Taig users and forums so info is easy to find. But there is a real learning curve - you'll need to know a CAD system to create the bait - learn a CAM system to generate CNC code for the machine... and then the ins and out of CNC machining. If you HAVE to make balsa baits - CNC is probably the only option other than a duplicator. If you can live without wood and make "plastic" baits.... I'd just get a 3D printer fo
  10. This is for a 10pk of Do-It Blade Bait Inserts in Nickle. Shipping Will be USPS First Class. 20 Available
  11. Basseducer

    FG-40 Weedguards

    This is a 10pk of Do-It 5/32 Base Hole Pins. They are for the Do-It molds that take the FG-40 Weedguard. They are new, but out of the original package. Shipping will be USPS First Class. 17 Available
  12. People do not buy hand made baits because they are cheap, they buy because the lure is unique and of the highest quality. Your bait has to gain a reputation for catching MORE fish than the chunk of plastic on the shelf at Walmart. Yes, you need a pro angler on board who believes in your lure. A Kevin Van Dam is not going to get the job done, people will not attribute his success to the lure but to the man himself. I would take my lure to a struggling pro, get him to try the lure, prove that it is a fish magnet, then you can both retire on the lure's success. Only my opinion; cha
  13. Exactly, which is part of the challenge. Figuring out a charge rate that makes it worth my time and also still sellable. Maybe if could get Kevin Van Dam to use one of my baits...
  14. My charge rate is significantly higher, which is why I never entered the lure market. Dave
  15. I'm going the same route as @exx1976. I haven't sent in my paperwork yet, but I'll keep the whole thing above board. It stinks to pay the piper, but like you said I'll just build it into my prices. The challenge for me is making a quality bait efficiently enough to make the price worth my time/effort and acceptable to a customer. If I'm just making some for myself and my friends it doesn't matter if it takes me 7 hours to get it right, but for a seller 7 hours x $10/hr is $70, which looks steep for a 2 1/2" crankbait... The next thing I need to do to help figure out the actual cost is
  16. I'll follow up with you all on this, but I was in the shop cutting out a glide bait and the shop teacher asked me for a design challenge... he wants to use the x-carve to cut out some lures! He has a round bit and is eager to try out some features he hasn't used yet. Here's the plan so far: I'll send him one of my templates. He'll then design a program to cut two halves of it simultaneously, adding in lots of detail for scales, fins, gill plates, etc., and cutting out the lip slot. We'll also make a program to cut the inside, making a path for a wire form and ballast weight, maybe even
  17. Just getting into soft plastic baitmaking gf got me a do it mold and injector some starter kit type stuff and I got into it got more stuff and now im kinda stuck the do it injector is not working so good seems to be sucking air and any of the quality injectors are sold out. Don't really want to throw money away on another cheap one. Any suggestions on how to proceed
  18. component systems equipment 13 fluid beds twelve inch hold 3 - 4 pounds, oven ,14 aluminum racks, 30 pounds of powder paint and more to much to list over 6000 invested sell for 1500 or best offer, call 330-322-1988 or email davesprofishing@roadrunner.com for either a word document or pdf with pictures and details
  19. It's best to use what works for YOU. Trust me......we've had every plastic war known to man on here. I used MF because it was the easiest to work with at the time, but the others were not available then. Since you say you can't tell the difference between those 3, then I would think the choice is obvious. The cheapest.
  20. Ain't that the truth. There's a guy on there selling handmade wooden baits for $19.99. They aren't exactly the best looking lures out there (I wouldn't buy one, even for that cheap), but $19.99? I know what kind of materials costs are involved, and he should be paying 1.199 in FET on each one, so his profit can't be more than $10 per bait. That $1.199 would put a big dent in that if he was actually paying it. I don't know for sure, but I gotta think guys selling at that price are simply ignoring it. I don't know. I already registered. Filed the LLC and registered to collect sales t
  21. A buddy just got one of the higher-end X Carve machines. Spent upwards of $5k on it. I haven't been over the check it out myself yet, but he seems happy enough with it. It's a neat idea, but I'm still trying to nail down my design. The best laid plans do not survive the first encounter with the enemy, as the saying goes. Shipped a bunch of lures out to guys for testing, and I'm making some tweaks on the design based upon their feedback. Once I get it all sorted and begin offering them for sale, if they start flying out the door, maybe I'll consider a CNC. For now, I'm doing well eno
  22. For a mechanical duplicator; the cutter has to be capable of removing the material effortlessly from the stock on a single pass. Stock removal is about 1" per minute depending on the mechanical design. A standard router bit is the worst tool for the job in my opinion. A ball end router is better, but it will blunt quickly and unless you sharpen your own, it will be a VERY costly item to replace. I do not see a Dremel cutter keeping up with the volume of material being removed or coping with the cutter depth. Dave
  23. I have had both and preferred the doit unit over the bass tackle. It got hot faster and I could empty the chambers better. Had less reheats that way. It is all about what you like. Many guys like the pins. I get that as well. I do have two of the doit large injectors as well and love them, triple pin units. Again gets hot quicker and allows less reheats of solid plugs.
  24. I would be happy starting out with a duplicator but much smaller than the ones I’ve seen and one to hold a dremel tool instead of router. My main focus right now is a crank bait similar to speed trap but made from balsa with no rattles. I’ve made a couple by hand and there not too bad to make but hard to get consistent...for me anyway. My flat sided baits are fairly easy to replicate by hand
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