Jump to content

  2. →
  3. → Small lathe-turned cranks

Navigation




 * * - - -

Small lathe-turned cranks



  • Views: 276

    Here is some of my latest work , just turned them down out of a temper the other day , just after my memory about some "classic" crankbait designs:yes: . All of them are approx. 2 1/5" in length(without lips) . They all do work fine , tried them in my bath tub prior to painting , but can never tell about their diving depths , finally assembled the hooks just now ! I am not too satisfied with my first "crayfish" pattern , since the segments separation lines turned out too thick and uneven , I really should have used a felt pen for them instead of brushing:( . The two lures with aluminium lips I have brush-painted with modelmaking enamels , since I found it too finacky to mask the lips for spraying with my rattlecans:huh: . All lures are thru-wired with a harness running through a slot in the belly . When assembling these , I have glued in some small pieces of roofing lead sheet as well , obviously my estimations about location and weight of these were right , I am pretty much satisfied with their action , though their paint jobs can never compete with the beauties displayed in here :yes:. greetz , diemai




    captsully18
    Oct 24 2008 09:09 AM
    Really nice work Demai. Good reproductions of some classic baits. Paint jobs are good. You have talent. David
    • Report

    parrothead127
    Oct 29 2008 08:48 PM
    OK Demai, I turn alot on a lathe, so how in the heck did you turn that top one?
    • Report

    diemai
    Oct 30 2008 09:38 AM
    @ parrothead127 Alright , it does not come out of the lathe like this , off course:) ! You would first turn the head portion entirely round and "fat" , then get more slender in diameter towards the belly and larger again down the tail , don't cut down tail end at 90° , but shape it a bit concave , a bit like a half ball shape . Cut off wood extensions on either side , smoothen blank ends . Now draw four accurate pencil lines along the length of lureblank , also leading over both ends of it , to exactly meet in center , virtually dividing the blank into quarters ! These lines are for reference for lipslot , pilot holes or harness , but also for shaping the unsymetrical tail portion . After you have done some more rough pencil marking , you would just sand away the rear thicker portion to make up for the curved downward rear back outline , off course plane and paralell to the refering marker lines . Take care about an even transition to the remaining untouched round portion . Now mark the rear flanks outlines on that new curved plane and also sand wood away to achieve that tapered shape down the tail(viewed from top) , they must off course sit in a right angle to the first plane and paralell to each other(viewed fro the rear end) ! I do these operations on a 40 grit sanding disc , takes only 2-3 minutes , but good eye-balling required ! The final sanding to achieve smooth transitions all over and a nicely rounded back portion is done by hand , after you cut the wire harness slot and and lipslot with a "Dremel" cutting disc and/or drill pilot holes for screw eyes(if not utilizing internal wire harness) . I hope , that my explanations are at least a bit understandable , I find this way of shaping certain crankbait models easier and faster than working them out of rectangular stock . More questions ? Feel free to contact me:yes: ! greetz , diemai
    • Report

    1. → Gallery
    2. → Hard Baits
    3. → Small lathe-turned cranks
    4. Site Rules