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Insperation from "Creature Spoon"

Insperation from "Creature Spoon"

Here is my version of the creature spoon. I got the design from a member that is well known, Dieter or Deimia. I made this spoon wider than Dieters just because I like the look of the wider spoons and it seems that the fish in our area like them a lil bit more lol. I also made the line tie in the middle of the top head more of fo experimenting and I thought I would get more action from this. The tilted head serves a huge amount of difference in the action. When I was trying to get this guy to swim I noticed that when I moved the head down with the curve of the spoon I got more wiggle so I decided to keep it like this. I am very surprised by the action of this spoon. I did not think i was going to be able to get it to swim without rolling over but to my surprise it has a very uniform side to side wiggle. It seems like that the pivot point of the "X"ing action is where the two round parts of the spoon meet. Still havent took it out to the lake for some fish test but according the bathtub test it looks very promising. Thanks for looking, Jacob

    A very interesting variation :yes:, Jacob , I like it ,..... you also wrote a very informative describtion to it :yes:!

    But I guess , that for my own demands it would rise up too fast due to the line tie location:? .

    But I am looking forward to your first outdoors report;) .

    I have made spoons before with such a duolock snap line tie , it is quite a PITA to rig the snap into the two holes , .......what I have found out is , that the snap could accidentally open , if rigged the way that you did .

    It is better to put the snap the other way round , so that the closure hooklet would stand away from the spoon , otherwise under tension of a big fish or a snag leverage of the spoons surface or the rim of its hole against the closure hooklet or its shank may open up the snap .

    You were right to say in your comment to my version , that bath tub testing often won't show the full potential of a lure , ...I have fished my spoons for a while yesterday in a canal in Hamburg(check picture at http://www.flickr.co...n/pool-hoheluft) , and I must say, that they do wiggle more , as I have thought at first ,..... just as you have written in your statement about the pivot point !

    Also it does overturn on a sharp twitch(but doesn't constantly spin) , but this only adds more flash to it .
    Probably your wider version won't , since it has more sideward stability due to being not as narrow:? .

    And these spoons do cast pretty well ,.... I had to take care not to hang them into the trees on the other side of the canal ,..... most likely the pike hang out below the branches or that theatre barge there , caught a few smaller ones there before ,..... but this time they were unwilling to strike .

    greetz , Dieter:yay:
    @ Dieter, You are very correct with the spoon rising quickly, I plan on using these with the downrigger and troll right above the weeds with these guys. It will be quite nice to now that all these spoons will need to get above the weeds is just a small speed increase and now the spoons rises above the weeds. It will be very interesting to see what the fish think of these8O. I am planing on using some heavier gauge metal when I make some more spoons but for now I like working with the thin copper since its so easy to mend and shape into whatever I want it to be:yeah:. I see what you mean with the snap though, maybe I could just make a stainless split ring and weld it around there like you see on some of the saltwater lures, lol that will be another project:lolhuh:. Thanks, Jacob
    Pretty nice idea about the downrigger trolling ,..... haven't thought about that , it's not very common around here(only on a few bigger lakes and the Baltic Sea) , most likely even tossing crankbaits behind a boat is not allowed everywhere . But it is really a good method to keep your spoons off the bottom As far as for the line tie , ........you can take a piece some thicker , rigid SSt wire , maybe 2" to 3" , and grind a point to either end(eases rigging) . Bend it around a vertically clamped nail to an "U" shape , leaving one shank little longer than the other . You need to drill two holes in line through your spoon , best of same dia. as the wire , their distance to one another accordingly to the shanks' distance of your wire form(desired eye size) . Lead the wire form through the holes ,..... as said before , a snug fit is of advantage ,.....clamb the "U" bend in a vise letting it protrude a bit to make up for a line tie and bend the two shanks offset down the spoon's plane . Snip off shanks to a remaining length of 1/4" or little less and gently hit them with a hammer to achieve a sharper 90 kink . I sometimes utilize this method for line ties on some aluminium crankbait lips ,.......Australian builders use it a lot on their baits' lips as well , only that they let the wire form sit loosely in larger bores or even slots to gain sufficient play to render their baits self tracking ,......some call these wire forms "omega-clips" over there . good luck , Dieter:yay:
    mark poulson
    Jun 29 2009 05:15 PM
    Chatterbaits use exactly the same hole configuration and duolock snap, and I've never had one come unbuttoned yet. Of course, the chatterbait blade is free swinging, so the fish don't have the same leverage as with a metal spoon. My biggest fish on one was a 7lb largemouth that went completely under the boat and jumped on the other side. It was during a night tournament, and my partner almost had a heart attack. I fish them on 50lb braid, so the strain is all on the rod and the snap, and, so far, I haven't had any problems. My partner took some down to Lake Baccarrac in Mexico, and he said he had some fish that opened the snap down there. Of course, his best five one day went 49+lbs! I check the snaps all the time, just in case.
    @ mark poulson Hahaha , Mark , .......didn't even know , what a "chatterbait" is , I did google for it to get an idea and viewed some pictures . These are unknown over here ,........still :lol:????? Anyway , as you've said , they do have one pivot point more to prevent leverage , also some have the snap rigged with the closure snap standing away from the blade , so such accidental opening can't happen , anyway . I had just noticed these snaps to accidentally open a few times , when fishing some weird spoons , that I had designed many years ago , ..........if my memory serves me right , even only the acceleration force on a powerful cast could already cause the problem , .........so later I had put them all the other way round . greetz :yay:, Dieter
    I would have to agree with Dieter on this one, chatterbaits have that pivot point so i bet it would be pretty hard for the snap to come open. I think that me and my dad are just gonna try to make some things for this. I really like the idea of yours Dieter, it seems like it will work very well but I think that I would fail if a large fish was to get on. But maybe a "U" shaped welded split ring would work well? Beats me lol Ill just see what I can make and maybe tweak to. Thanks for all your input, it really helps! Thanks, Jacob
    @ spoopa I make these "omega clips" out of 1,5 mm SSt welding wire(would't trust thinner one either) ,..... I don't have any worries about it ! My PB pike of approx. 47" hung onto such a clip mounted on a 1,5 mm thick aluminium sheet crankbait lip("Cisco Kid" style) , to my surprise not even the kinked lip had de-formed ! A friend of a friend even boated an European silure of approx. 66" on one of my crankbaits made that way , .......no problems about those clips ! Made of wire of the mentioned thickness these wire forms are at least more though as thinner gauge copper sheet , I suppose ? greetz , Dieter
    Yes Dieter, I would imagine if your stainless "Omega clips" could withstand a 47" pike then they could withstand a 3lb trout lol. Also I imagine just like you say that my copper sheet would break or bend before the clips failed. This is more in the test stages though, I plan on making these spoon types out of thicker gauge metal just for the purpose of the copper bending from a fish of any size. Thanks, Jacob
    @ spoopa Probably try to obtain some brass sheet in an RC model shop . These alloys are still easy to work with(still just a little harder and more rigid than copper) . Or try your luck at scrabyards ,..... but since there are different alloys for different purposes around better take a file(or also shears) along to make a few strokes or cuts on the material , this will give you an idea about its hardness , ......if it removes or cuts material easily , its OK ,..... but if the file just slides over just scratching the surface , drop it ,....... that sheet material won't cut and bend easily ! good luck :yay:, Dieter