In line weight

Big Pancho
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

Hello Mark sorry I haven't been able to post this earlier. I have been battling a cold. Here is the in line weight I designed for my baits. As you can see the majority of the weight is pushed forward towards the front of the head. I designed this guy with two locking points. The first locking point is the big hole I drilled in the front of the head and the second is the little notch on the rear of the head. Once the hot plastic is poured into the mold it will flow through and around the two locking points and this thing will not move what so ever. The neat thing about the head is that it does not matter slow or fast the bait will always run true. It took me some time to figure this one out and hope this helps you and the boys out a bit in making your baits swim true. I made the proto type head out of scupley bake clay and follow up by making a two piece bondo mold. The key is two make two bondo molds. Why I say this is because if you start pouring the head rapidly the bondo mold does not like excessive heat. Make the two molds and pour one at a time and rotate the molds so that the molds last a bit longer. Bondo is a good inexpensive product to use for this application. One of these days I will have someone make me an aluminum mold for these heads. But for right now this will have to do. Well if you have any further questions please just ask.

Pancho


  Report Image
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0


4 Comments

Thanks for the tutorial.

I was wondering what to use for my mold.

I've had good luck with plastics and POP, but the last time I poured lead, it was in sand molds I made for triangular surf sinkers, more than thirty years ago.

Do I need to seal the bondo, like I do with POP?

And where should I put my sprue, and vent holes?

Share this comment


Link to comment

Mark there will be no need to seal the two piece bondo mold. The only thing you will have to do is once you cast first half of the two piece mold you will need to use a lubricant and apply it to the first half of the mold before casting the second half. The lubricant will help you split the completed mold. Don't make the same mistake I made and forget the lubricant or you will have a complete block of bondo with the insert stuck in the block. Like I said learn from my mistakes. Just trying to help. If you have any question just ask.

GOOD LUCK

Frank

Share this comment


Link to comment

I know what you mean. Been there, done that with POP.

Fortunately, it's easier to break POP than bondo.

I use PAM as a release agent now.

Share this comment


Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now