Powder Coating Jig's
17 replies to this topic
Posted 25 January 2009 - 11:41 AM
Is anyone powder coating jig's?
I recently started making weedless jigs and am having problems with the weed guards. I have poured with the weed guard in the mold, and with pin's in and glued the weed guards in and then powder coated the jig's but my weed guards all show signs of heat damage.
Do i need to powder coat them with the pins in and then remove the pin's and glue the weed guards in? And if so how do you keep the paint from cracking when the pin's are removed?
Please help this is a big problem for me!
Posted 25 January 2009 - 11:55 AM
Pour your jig using the base pin. Remove the pin and sprue and prepare for painting.
Heat the jig.
Insert the pin.
Dip in powder.
Remove the pin (rotate as you remove), this is all done while the powder paint is still soft, so you have to be quick.
Bake to cure.
Once cooled, you can glue in the weedguard.
I use teflon pins rather than metal ones as they are so much easier to install and remove than the metal type and they last forever.
Give this a try and let us know how you do.
Posted 25 January 2009 - 11:58 AM
Thanks for the info , where do you get the teflon pins?
Posted 25 January 2009 - 12:11 PM
You can get them from C.S. Hyde Company.
CS Hyde Company, IL, USA: PTFE Beading (aka PTFE Minature Cord); small diameter from .028" to .150"
Select the size you need, i.e. 1/8" = .125
Posted 21 June 2010 - 02:19 PM
I put the jig in the toaster without base hole pin, then put them in before the powder paint to put the pin pitch in the powder and then take it off, so the pin stays cool and does not attack the paint, ready to be used again.
I also have the fluid bed, I have so many different jars, so it suits me and not use it, but I found that simply mixing the powder every 2 / 3 jigs and the result is satisfactory.
Edited by davidefc, 21 June 2010 - 02:29 PM.
Posted 23 June 2010 - 04:57 PM
I am interested in the teflon pin idea, this is news to me and would be worth a try, but gosh I don't want to buy 25 feet / $70 worth of the stuff. Anyone willing to clip a section off and let me buy it from ya? maybe enough for a dozen pins or so.
Posted 23 June 2010 - 05:29 PM
Wooden dowels work well and on smaller jigs, a piece of toothpick.
Posted 25 June 2010 - 07:48 PM
Troul Hawk and others. I have a guy that gets these for me pre-cut to 1" strips x 1/8" (.125) diameter. If you are interested, PM me as I can get them. Once you guys try these you will never go back to metal pins. I even use these for inserts in my lead molds and it works great. No more struggling pulling pins out of jigs. They come out as easy as a hot knife out butter. Below is a pic.
Edited by cadman, 25 June 2010 - 07:50 PM.
Posted 28 June 2010 - 08:29 AM
Posted 06 December 2010 - 08:17 PM
I have been playing with the teflon pins and they work great, still a good idea to get a 1/8" drill bit incase you have a tight fit. You can ream them out by hand, and the weedguards fit great!
I glue mine in with super glue gel, works great and one drop is all it takes
Posted 07 January 2011 - 05:20 PM
After pouring 1000`s of jigs each year, mostly with weedguards. This has really been a big problem.
This is some of the problems that have come up.
With pouring weedguards into jig head, the mold gets hot afterv just a few pours.
This really gets the weedguard distorted.
Even baking the jigs with weedguard in, will really distort the weedguard if to much heat is used.
The best results I have had is putting the weedguard into your jighead after baking and curing paint.
This is really a tricky thing to get done without getting to much paint inside the guard hole.
Now this can be solved really easy if you have a dremel, Just ream out the hole then glue weedguard inside.
i always ream out the holes after taken out of oven, the hot powder coat is real soft at this time.
Hope this helps
Posted 07 January 2011 - 06:22 PM
Just put pins in your weedguard holes when you are painting the jig and you will never ever have to drill again. I've been doing this for sevaral years and it just plain works. Also if the hole is slightly tight just take one strand of fiber off the weedguard. It works all the time. Finally it is easier to put in the non fused side in the hole versus the fused. The fused side is bigger at the bottom and it has a tendency to flare the weed fibers when forced in.
Edited by cadman, 07 January 2011 - 06:23 PM.
Posted 16 October 2013 - 04:16 PM
The teflon pins work good and you can leave them in the head when you powder coat them and also when you bake them. The paint will scrape off of the teflon easily also. I always remove the pins from the heads before I powder coat the heads and drill the excess paint and lead out of the weedguard hole. I use either a 1/8 drill bit or a number 29 drill bit to drill the hole out, this depends on which size of weedguard I am going to use. I have drilled out thousands of doing it this way. If you leave the teflon pin in when you powder coat the head, you will still need to make the hole larger for the weedguard regardless.
Posted 16 October 2013 - 04:19 PM
I also glue the weedguards in using 5 minute epoxy and they are impossible to pull out after a while. I have tried super glue but they can be pulled out easily for me.
Posted 16 October 2013 - 04:22 PM
I have never tried gluing weedguard with the unfused end first, I will have to try that, sounds interesting.
Posted 17 October 2013 - 06:01 AM
I have found this method the easiest for me, without the weedguard strands all flared out.
Posted 30 October 2013 - 05:23 PM
I paint and bake mine. Then I use a drill to carefully drill out the cavity. Then glue the gaurds in. It works quite well