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Fatman

Blade Bait Inserts

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For you guys that pour your own blade baits who do find the best and cheapest for the nickle and brass blanks???? I finally got one of the old ZR model molds (Silver Buddy) and I need to get blanks for it. I'm looking at quantities of 100 each in brass and nickle in the small and large.

Thanks

Fatman

Edited by Fatman
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I've been looking for about a year for extremely good prices. I have not found anything phenomenal. However, the best place for pricing is Barlow's. Also they have very reasonable shipping for my location anyway. But check your zone because that's what they go by. I don't know of anyone else that has great prices. I am in the process of designing a different style for mine. The blade will be out of aluminum which will make it vibrate more. I will them have them cut on a laser. I'll post info if and when all of this happens.

For anyone else that knows of a better place that has really good prices please post. I'm looking as well.

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For you guys that pour your own blade baits who do find the best and cheapest for the nickle and brass blanks???? I finally got one of the old ZR model molds (Silver Buddy) and I need to get blanks for it. I'm looking at quantities of 100 each in brass and nickle in the small and large.

Thanks

Fatman

Fatman, Cadman, I realize that this is an older thread, but I was wondering if you found a good supplier of blanks and if the aluminum laser cut blanks worked? I am also thinking of trying the aluminum and am interested in anything that you found.

Thanks,

Dave

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Fatman, Cadman, I realize that this is an older thread, but I was wondering if you found a good supplier of blanks and if the aluminum laser cut blanks worked? I am also thinking of trying the aluminum and am interested in anything that you found.

Thanks,

Dave

Dave,

I have a guy here locally that will lazer the parts for me in cold rolled steel, Alum 6061-T6, copper, brass and stainless steel. On the copper and brass, you are better off going to a guy that has a water jet, as lasers have a problem with the reflection of the laser bouncing off of the shiny materail and onto the lenses and mirrors. So currently my project is on hold. Reason being, is you have to have some sort of file (solids or dxf) so they can import the image into their cutting software, so the laser or water jet has a contour or a path to follow to burn or cut. I have not had a chance to draw these up yet as I'm pretty busy. The drawing part is not the problem, it's trying to copy the profile accurately. Well with out dimensions, it is pretty laborious. I have one profile done. A prototype actually has to be made, to make sure that the part will fit in the mold after it is cut with consistency. Once I have them done and tested I will share the .dxf files with anyone that wants them. I guess you can take an original blank pattern and scan it, but I'm sure you will have to tweak it as nothing is as easy as it seems. Sorry I don't have more for you at this time.

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Dave,

I have a guy here locally that will lazer the parts for me in cold rolled steel, Alum 6061-T6, copper, brass and stainless steel. On the copper and brass, you are better off going to a guy that has a water jet, as lasers have a problem with the reflection of the laser bouncing off of the shiny materail and onto the lenses and mirrors. So currently my project is on hold. Reason being, is you have to have some sort of file (solids or dxf) so they can import the image into their cutting software, so the laser or water jet has a contour or a path to follow to burn or cut. I have not had a chance to draw these up yet as I'm pretty busy. The drawing part is not the problem, it's trying to copy the profile accurately. Well with out dimensions, it is pretty laborious. I have one profile done. A prototype actually has to be made, to make sure that the part will fit in the mold after it is cut with consistency. Once I have them done and tested I will share the .dxf files with anyone that wants them. I guess you can take an original blank pattern and scan it, but I'm sure you will have to tweak it as nothing is as easy as it seems. Sorry I don't have more for you at this time.

Let me know if I can help you out with the CAD and DXF work. Got a bit of time to spare here.

Dave

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I was actually just looking at the new DO-It catalouge and cringing at the cost of the blanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, I was buying the blanks from Stamina(LPOL), but then their prices jumped so I went to Barlows. I figured that it may be time to research getting a lighter, more reactive blade.

Cadman, Dave,

Thanks for the info and the offer of help!

If I find a good source of alternate blanks, I will let you all know.

Thanks again,

Dave

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Yes, I was buying the blanks from Stamina(LPOL), but then their prices jumped so I went to Barlows. I figured that it may be time to research getting a lighter, more reactive blade.

Cadman, Dave,

Thanks for the info and the offer of help!

If I find a good source of alternate blanks, I will let you all know.

Thanks again,

Dave

Dave I will look into this and get you guys some info. This may take a couple of weeks.

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Ok Guys,

I have some info and help for you. Attached is a PDF of the large blade. The small blade is not done yet. I can give you a .DXF file which you can take to any laser or waterjet shop and they can cut the profile for you. This profile will work for all materials. Cold Rolled Steel, brass, alum., stainless steel, copper,and any other material that if you pour lead over it will not melt. Now here are the parameters.

This part was measured with calipers, micrometer, pin gages and any other inspection instruments I could find to make it like the original. With that said if you use the .DXF you must do the following.

#1 Make sure you have several samples made prior to any production run. I have not had a chance to have these made, checked and fitted in my mold. They should be close.

#2 Make sure your parts are deburred before you try to put them into a mold.

I will not be held liable if you take these parts and just make them. They have not been made and tested. You have to do this on your own. This is just a cad file to help you guys from paying for cad work nothing else. It's your responsibility to make sure everything is the way you want it

I will also look into trying to get some prices for these to see what a ballpark number is for certain materials. Will post later on this.

Also as you can see, you can put profiles or your name cut into the baits. You may want a lightening bolt, or a logo in there to promote your business. There are many things that can be done. Naturally the more detail you put into this the more costly it will be.

I will keep you guys updated if I find anything more on this and when the smaller version will be ready.

Just so you know, the blade thickness on the original is(.032") The plated blade is a little thicker due to the fact that the plating has some thickness to it. The (.032") thickness is available in all of the materials I mentioned above, give or take several thousandths of an inch,.

Let me know if you need more help.

Large Blade.pdf

Large Blade.pdf

Large Blade.pdf

Large Blade.pdf

Large Blade.pdf

Large Blade.pdf

Large Blade.pdf

Large Blade.pdf

Large Blade.pdf

Edited by cadman
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Hi Cadman,

Yes please!

daakiy01@yahoo.com

Thanks!

Dave

Dave,

E-mail sent.

For all you guys that try this as samples first. Please post the results here of how the fit was of my blade. I would like to make sure it fits correctly so that I don't keep on giving out bad DXF files. Please give me your feedback. Also if you happen to have some samples made. PM me as I would like to get 1 of yours to see the fit in my mold as well. I don't plan on having any made at this present time.......

Thanks....................Cadman

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OK guys the small blade is complete. See atached PDF file. For those of you that asked for the .DXF files I am sending you the small one as well.

As mentioned above, please make sure you have the DXF file checked and proven in your mold for fit and function so that it is correct before you run production.

Also if it doesn't fit and/or you get a good DXF file, please PM or e-mail me so I can get a good DXF file for future members. No point in sending out a bad DXF file over and over again.

Finally I want to say this before I finish.

I want to personally thank Vodkaman(Dave) for doing the entire small blade for me from scratch and sending me the DXF file. Without his help this would not be done in such a timely manner. All I can say is that some members go above and beyond to help others and the members of Small Blade.pdf

Small Blade.pdf

Small Blade.pdf

Small Blade.pdf

Small Blade.pdf

Small Blade.pdf

Small Blade.pdf

Small Blade.pdf

Small Blade.pdf

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I'm with Cad!!!!!! Thanks Dave, after working with the Civil Engineers in the AF Reserves I saw just how much work goes along with learning CAD systems. And for Dave to donate his time and experience for FREE is UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've saved the files but haven't found anyone in my area that can do sample cuts, they all want minimum 100 per size per material with no guarantees. So right now I'll keep looking around for someone who can do it.

For those of us who are kinda stuck having to buy them I've run a few companies. These prices are for 100 of the ZBS (small) in nickle and brass and ZB-M (large) in nickle and brass, for a total of 400 blades. I'll only list what the blades will cost as shipping would be different for everyone.

Janns$100.88

Barlows$102.90

Zeiners $126.40

LureCraft $136.80

Fatman

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Thanks Cadman and Fatman, too generous. If Ted is doing stuff for the members, I am happy to be part of it.

The PDF's look good, but I had to download a newer version of reader. I should have done this long ago. It takes about 30 minutes, but at least it is free.

I looked into lase cutting for a project many years ago and this is what I found:

Laser cutting or what ever method is employed, involves costs. Setup costs, a nesting file has to be created, manpower and all the other overheads have to be paid for. Regardless of how many blades you order, these charges will be the same. The next charge is for machine time and should not be anything to do with the number of items. There will be a handling charge, as 2000 small parts are more of a problem that 3 big parts, but this should only be small. Also you will be paying for a full sheet, even if you only order 10 blades. So it makes sense to order the maximum number that can be squeezed out of one sheet. Unfortunately, I do not know the sheet sizes, but I do know that the unit cost will be considerably less than the numbers quited on Fatmans post. This will only work as a community sharing thing with someone organizing the order and distribution.

I am looking forward to the feedback Ted, as this process has other applications in lure building, such as cutting lip profiles.

Dave

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