Jump to content



Photo
- - - - -

Making Jointed Lures


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 CedarLakeMusky

CedarLakeMusky

    Member

  • TU Member
  • PipPip
  • 152 posts
  • Location:
    Cedar Lake, MN

Posted 12 September 2010 - 11:47 AM

I was looking at making some jointed lures. I was wondering what is used to hold the pieces of the lure together. Should I use screw eyes? I would have too open one screw eye and the bend it back when I put it over the the other eye. Is this strong enough when caughting bigger fish? Any ideas would be great!

Thank you,

CLM

#2 jrhopkins

jrhopkins

    Member

  • TU Member
  • PipPip
  • 273 posts
  • Location:
    seattle

Posted 12 September 2010 - 01:33 PM

I was looking at making some jointed lures. I was wondering what is used to hold the pieces of the lure together. Should I use screw eyes? I would have too open one screw eye and the bend it back when I put it over the the other eye. Is this strong enough when caughting bigger fish? Any ideas would be great!

Thank you,

CLM



#3 jrhopkins

jrhopkins

    Member

  • TU Member
  • PipPip
  • 273 posts
  • Location:
    seattle

Posted 12 September 2010 - 01:38 PM

lots of people use screw eyes. epoxied into the bait the will hold well.

#4 bluefin1

bluefin1

    New Member

  • TU Member
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Location:
    mass

Posted 12 September 2010 - 02:26 PM

Im currently trying to make a few right now and I was told to use a swivel and pins or you can use a plastic hinge cut to your size or you can make the hinges with sheet metal. but any who in tutorials there is a guy making a bait using pvc board but it shows you how to use the hinge style. well hope you figure it out. like I said im still working on it but good luck.

#5 BobP

BobP

    Advanced Member

  • TU Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,224 posts
  • Location:
    Summerfield, N.C.

Posted 12 September 2010 - 04:00 PM

I hand twist my hook hangers and line ties out of stainless wire, and it's easy to make body joints the same way. Just make an eye from wire, then make the second eye with the loop through the first eye before you twist the shank into a screw shape. I install the hinges after finishing the crankbait.

Attached Files


Edited by BobP, 12 September 2010 - 04:01 PM.


#6 mark poulson

mark poulson

    Advanced Member

  • TU Sponsor
  • PipPipPip
  • 7,317 posts
  • Location:
    los angeles

Posted 13 September 2010 - 09:16 AM

If you use a screw eye/hinge pin method, you can adjust the screw eyes in or out to fine tune your lure's swimming action.

#7 Bassman82

Bassman82

    Member

  • TU Member
  • PipPip
  • 14 posts

Posted 14 September 2010 - 11:13 PM

If you use a screw eye/hinge pin method, you can adjust the screw eyes in or out to fine tune your lure's swimming action.


If you were making jointed bodies for muskie baits Mark, would you use stainless steel screw eyes or do you thinnk the nickel plated brass ones in say an inch long and 0.063" diameter wire would be sufficient?

#8 mark poulson

mark poulson

    Advanced Member

  • TU Sponsor
  • PipPipPip
  • 7,317 posts
  • Location:
    los angeles

Posted 16 September 2010 - 08:03 PM

If you were making jointed bodies for muskie baits Mark, would you use stainless steel screw eyes or do you thinnk the nickel plated brass ones in say an inch long and 0.063" diameter wire would be sufficient?


I have never seen a muskie in person, but I've caught a lot of barricuda, and they look a lot alike to me. Big, strong, lots of sharp teeth.
I'd never use anything less than .092 sst screw eyes, at least 1 1/2" long. Brass is too soft.
There is a pike fisherman, Jeep, who is a member here. He just posted a video of some fish he caught with his Esox swimbaits. Check out his video, and give him a PM. He'd be the perfect guy to give you some first hand advice.

#9 muskydan666

muskydan666

    Member

  • TU Member
  • PipPip
  • 196 posts

Posted 17 September 2010 - 11:30 PM

I have never seen a muskie in person, but I've caught a lot of barricuda, and they look a lot alike to me. Big, strong, lots of sharp teeth.
I'd never use anything less than .092 sst screw eyes, at least 1 1/2" long. Brass is too soft.
There is a pike fisherman, Jeep, who is a member here. He just posted a video of some fish he caught with his Esox swimbaits. Check out his video, and give him a PM. He'd be the perfect guy to give you some first hand advice.

Hi,Like Mark I only use some .092 s.steel screw eyes!For musky baits brass is realy to soft!Cheers.Dan

#10 vafishing

vafishing

    New Member

  • TU Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts

Posted 02 February 2012 - 04:10 PM

I hand twist my hook hangers and line ties out of stainless wire, and it's easy to make body joints the same way. Just make an eye from wire, then make the second eye with the loop through the first eye before you twist the shank into a screw shape. I install the hinges after finishing the crankbait.


How do you attach those pins into the bait to make sure they will not come out? Just epoxy them into predrilled holes or something? Just getting ready to make my first attempts at swimbaits and trying to get all my ideas in place on how to do it.

#11 mark poulson

mark poulson

    Advanced Member

  • TU Sponsor
  • PipPipPip
  • 7,317 posts
  • Location:
    los angeles

Posted 02 February 2012 - 07:28 PM

If you're using wood, then by all means cover over the holes with epoxy after they're in place. It's not to keep them in the predrilled holes, it's to keep as much water out as you can.
If you're using PVC, there's no need to seal the holes, since it's totally waterproof.
My pins are a snug fit.
If I think a hinge pin is a little loose, I'll put a slight bend in it near the top, so it's forced into the last part of the hole, and it holds fine

Edited by mark poulson, 02 February 2012 - 07:34 PM.


#12 Vodkaman

Vodkaman

    Advanced Member

  • TU Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,539 posts
  • Location:
    Indonesia

Posted 03 February 2012 - 08:00 AM

I fix the top and bottom of the pins with a dab of UHU soft glue. The pins are not under any load that is trying to pull them out. The top coat of epoxy is plenty to hold them in. To remove, simply grind the epoxy, which has to be removed anyway and tap the pins out with an old drill bit.

Dave