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Jigs With Free Moving Hooks
14 replies to this topic
Posted 17 March 2012 - 07:53 PM
Having read the article in my FLW Outdoors Magazine, BASS edition, about all of the various makers of jigs that have free moving hooks. I'm wondering how many members here in the Wire Baits forum have made or are making something similar without any mold modifications? I'd like to try and make some, which is why I'm asking the question. Suggestions and specifics of making them are appreciated .
Posted 18 March 2012 - 05:55 AM
I use a round head mold for heavy hooks in 1 to 3 inch. I use welding wire and make an eye. Then pass it out the back with about 4 in. clear. Then I pour the lead. No mold modifications. Then I cut the lead off where it holds the plastic tail leaving the ring for the skirt. Then I form a tail loop like on a lure with the wire. Then I add an open eye Siwash hook of my choice. I have failed a couple of times trying to add pictures so I will not eve try but it makes a jig that works in a few applications rather well. Nice thing s are it did not ruin the mold and I do not have to use a split ring which I think is a weak point. Hope I have explained it well enough.
Posted 18 March 2012 - 10:00 AM
Yea, what Cadman said. I make them up to 8 oz. They work great...."Death from below".
Posted 18 March 2012 - 10:29 AM
Yeah, I know that Do-It makes a mold like that but I'm trying to save $$$ by using molds that I already have. Unless some one wants to trade for some of the ones that I've never used.
mkvnmtr - What guage or wire diameter are you using? So if I understand your description you're using the part of the jig mold where the hook shaft comes out as the connection point for the hook. Have you ever had that area straighten out and then lost a fish since the hook can slide off.
Posted 18 March 2012 - 03:43 PM
I use the same stainless welding wire that the lure building guys use for their thru wires. Just make a bend back into the lead and make it fit where the eye would be on a jig hook.. I think it is 1/16 of an inch. Nothing will straighten it out. I believe they use it for mig welding. I buy it at a welding supply. I have tried the same thing on some other molds but I like this one the best.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 10:26 AM
So you make an eye where the hook eye would be then you bend the wire and run a section out the back where the hook shaft would normally be, Correct ??
Last night I tried making two separate loops of of wire to fit the hook eye and shaft areas. Could not get the one for the hook eye to sit correctly. I guess that I need to work on that portion of the build. I was using .035 diameter wire used for leaders and spinner bait frames. I also have .029 diameter. Might try that as it is obviously thinner and easier to bend, etc.
Any thoughts, guys ???!!!
Posted 19 March 2012 - 10:35 AM
Yes you have the idea correct. I find the larger wire easier to work with than the smaller but a little practice and you will have it. All my work is for saltwater so I use bigger stuff than the freshwater guys. Using smaller wire you might need to turn the free end a little to keep it from coming out. I have friends that make small wire eyes for the jigs that they pour. Here in Mexico jig hooks are hard for some to find so it is common to make them with stainless wire. My experience is the small wire will pull out if you do not have a bend in it. My big wire does not do this.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 12:29 PM
That Do-it earball with a split ring and hook is a killer! It will surprise you how well it comes through weeds and if you use it with a bouyant plastic bait it absolutely crawls over laydowns completely unscathed. When finances are right I'm getting an earball mold for just that purpose!
Posted 19 March 2012 - 01:38 PM
I've been thinking about trying this with my ball jig no collar mold. Are ya'll fishing it with the hook point exposed or with a offset hook texposed?
Posted 19 March 2012 - 02:20 PM
I'm starting to fish more weedless baits recently
Are you talking about a football shaped weight or roundhead or...?
You might try the #0 ss wire eyes and bend the ends out to help hold better.
I've been able to modify some larger cannonball molds (4-8oz) to make jigs similar to what they call ball jigs.I have a recess for the swivel to lay during the pour. I add the hook on later by opening the eye then re-closing it onto the swivel
I use the xtra long ss wire eyes
It catches fish pretty good and the fish down twist off as easily because of the swivel.
But, if this for FW, the swivel is probably not necessary nor desirable
Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:59 PM
Made some of the jig heads last night using a 3/8th oz . football head. Boy was it a lot of work forming the eye to go where the hook eye would be then the correct angle to go down the hook shaft area. The fun part will be attaching the hooks and closing the straight section of wire where the hook shaft normally lies. I'm using 0.029 dia wire in an old football head mold that I got for free. Might try and play with one or two of the larger head sizes to make different weight units.
Posted 29 March 2012 - 10:56 AM
Ended up taking a little bit of the hook eye material out and the channel to the jig body. The wire does well but using the 0.29 wire I had a little bit of over flow where the hook eye area was enlargened. I'm going to try 0.035 wire next.
The issue that I had last night while powder painting was material getting into the hook eye for the added on hook. I'm thinking about powder coating then curing then adding on the hook.
Posted 29 March 2012 - 01:02 PM
if you remove the powder coat from the eye before you cure it, it's easier. Not easy, but easier.