The Dutchman Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 Is anyone using the Do-It bullet weight mold? If so, what is your procedure. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 What is your specific questions regarding this mold???????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dutchman Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 The pull pin says to use oil on the rod. Sometimes oil will get in cavity and sinker will not fill. Most of the time the sinker is difficult to get off rod. Specifically, what oil do people use? do you only do one cavity at a time. How difficult should it be to get the sinker off the rod? I think I covered all my questions. Maybe. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 (edited) Joe, This must be an older mold from Do-It or it is made by someone else as I don't see it listed anywhere. What I would like to see is the inside of the cavity and how they are laid out along with how the pull pin looks. What is the model number of the mold and who made it? Also if you can post a pic that would be easier for me to give you a correct answer, or e-mail me a pic. So without seeing the mold or the pull pin I can only give you this info. I have 4 Do-It molds that require a pull pin. I found out the hard way and by trial and error on how to pour these as there is no info on this anywhere. Here are my findings. #1 If you have multiple cavities per mold side, I found that if you pour all three per side, it is nearly impossible to pull the pull pin out. I struggled to do this the first time I poured and damaged my pull pin. So only do one cavity at a time. It's easier on the hands. #2 Yes even pouring with one cavity at a time it is hard to pull the pin out. So as soon as the cavity fills. Immediately yank that pull pin out when the bullet weight is still in the mold and hot. Pull the pull pin out when the weight is still in the mold, you will have more leverage that way. Do not take the weight out of the mold and then try to pull it off. You will damage the pull pin and the weight. Ask me how I know. #3 Do not use oil. I found that the oil does not work any better, and it gets all over the mold and the weights. Also now you have oil all over your weights and if you want to powder paint them or airbrush them, you will have to degrease them. A real P.I.T.A. #4 At first, I could not get full pours at all. More trial and error. You must use mold release in the molds. I found that it solved all of my problems on full pours on molds with pull pins. #5 I also found that I got better results pouring with a ladle. A cheap $4 ladle works just fine. The ladle works because it allows the lead to be poured faster with a smaller stream and let's the air escape. I also noticed that when pouring with a ladle I have a tendency not to over pour, thus letting the lead suck into the cavity.and giving complete pours. Try the ladle it does work. I have three bottom pour pots and I've tried tilting the mold all different ways till the month of Sunday, did not work. The ladle is your best shot for this. My mold has a deep sprue hole and it is hard to get it to work. Sometimes it is better to just fill the cavity until you have only enough lead to see it cover the cavity. Another words do not over fill it only causes problems. #6 These molds and pull pins have to be hot and I mean really hot. Especially the pull pin. #7 Gap the mold a little. This helps the air escape. You might get some flash, but it is still easier to trim off some flash then to pour for three hours and get all bad pours. I've been there and done that. Patience is a virtue with pouring these types of molds, trust me I know. Spent many hours trying to figure this out and cusssing. #8 Finally you can try this last step, until you get in the groove and start getting good pours. Spray your pull pin with mold release. It will at least for a half dozen pours get you good ones and get you going. The mold release will not last on the pull pin, because you have lead on the pull pin and the friction of pulling the pin out all the time will take off the mold release. This is it in a nutshell. I don't know how everyone else does this, but I have spent many hours trying to find a quick easy solution to these molds. There isn't one. All 4 of the molds I have are all a P.I.T.A. So what I do, is if I need a dozen or two dozen poured, and I finally get on a roll and they start pouring really well, I pour 4 or 5 dozen and put the rest in a plastic zip-lock bag, because I know the next time I pour these again, I will have problems all over again. These are not easy molds to pour and definitely not for the beginner. If you need more help PM me. Also post those pics. I would like to see the cavity set-up. Edited September 15, 2012 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dutchman Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Wow!! The mold I have is the WR-9-A by Do-It. I will attempt to send a picor pics. I may have to e-mail them as I'm not very handy. Thank you for the reply. I can see that what you went through is what I am going through. Not an easy job. Thanks again. As they say "you da man". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 (edited) Wow!! The mold I have is the WR-9-A by Do-It. I will attempt to send a picor pics. I may have to e-mail them as I'm not very handy. Thank you for the reply. I can see that what you went through is what I am going through. Not an easy job. Thanks again. As they say "you da man". Joe, I see that mold is still available and just as I suspected it has a similar pull pin to the molds that I have. I am also going to guess that all of the worm weight cavities are horizontal or parallel to the length of the mold halves. With that said, you are pulling the pull pin through the mold and through the entire length of the molded worm weight. So yes it will be hard to pull, do only one cavity at a time, get a small ladle, try the steps up above, definitely use mold release, and you should be in business. This is not an easy mold to pour either. Please do post pics for others to see what you are up against, and if you need more help PM me or do post questions so others can learn from your experience. Glad to be of help and post your results as you get good pours. This way we all can see how you solved your problem and learn. I learn a lot from guys as well as you may find an easier way to do something. I'm all for easier as I have enough probelms at times pouring. Good luck. Edited September 15, 2012 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Joe, I sent you a PM with my e-mail. If you can't get to post the pics. E-mail me a pic of the inside of the cavity and the pull pin, separate pics, and I will post them for you here, to show everyone what your questions are all about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 This is how I solved the pouring problems: 1) make the vent holes in the mold deeper. You don't want to make them wider just deeper. I did this with a dremel. 2) I use a hot plate on 400 degrees to keep the mold hot. With my setup I have a hot plate on the left of the pouring pot. This plate has the lip that is on the hotplate cut off so that the molds will lay flat on the plate. Then I have a hot plate on the right of the pouring pot that is cold so I can demold the hot molds. 3) I do oil the pull pin but I oil it with cutting oil. I put a couple of drops on a paper towel and run the rod through it. The cutting oil is not going to smoke or tourn into gum with the high heat. 4) Use soft lead. 5) Pour the lead and wait about 3 seconds then pull the pin. You can't wait to pull the pin. The lead and mold must not have time to cool down. This is how I do it and I don't have any problems. I pour all the cavities at one time but I am also not a small guy. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted September 17, 2012 Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 Attaced are the pics of the mold (WR-9-A) by Do-It that the Dutchman was referring to for those of you who are curious on what it looks like . I posted his pics for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dutchman Posted September 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 Ted, I sent two pics - one of mold and one of pull pin. Hope you received it via e-mail. If not, let me know. Also, I tried Moly on my pull pin. It worked OK - better than oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dutchman Posted September 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 Guess you got them. Thanks for posting Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted September 17, 2012 Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 (edited) Joe, No problem glad to be of some help. Edited September 17, 2012 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted September 17, 2012 Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 Just an added 2 cents worth ... Use Regular Bar soap to grease the pull pin. "Drag" the pin thru it before the next pour while it is still hot ... Learned this trick from a fellow that did tons of sinkers .. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
