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stretcher66

Thru Wire

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They could be thru-wire or eyelet. 

 

Here is a thread showing how one guy makes his own cheap butterfly jigs in Bondo molds with a thru-wire.

http://yumabassman.com/forums-new/index.php?topic=3194.msg16765#msg16765

 

I recently made an aluminum mold for a butterfly jig that could be used with thru wire or eyelets. 

http://www.barlowstackle.com/Stainless-Steel-Wire-Eyes--P1195.aspx

 

You can't tell the difference when the bait is finished which one was which, but unless you have your lead alloy just right for strength I think the thru wire is going to reinforce the bait and be a much stronger choice. 

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the way the guy has the thru wire on the bondo mold seems like it defeats the purpose of thru wire.  I will have to figure a way to connect the two loose ends incase the actual jig was to break apart so that i wouldn't loose the fish.  Thank you for the links to that it is very helpful.

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Its going to take a lot to straighten out .080 spring wire, and even a single strand through the length of the bait is going to help keep it from breaking up.  Like a piece of rebar though a piece of concrete, doubling them up and wiring them together can't hurt, but its also easy to over engineer a problem. 

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I have a 25oz butterfly type mold (Thanks Bob) that I just used to make a few jigs.

I use the #3 long eye in mine and I am not worried about pulling out.

The eyes are flared on the end so they should hold well.

I  think alot depends on how thick your jig is. In a Do-It fluttter jig the jig has a thru wire that isn't twisted closed and they hold up real well. But they need the thru wire as the jig is thin. Mine is a bit thicker.

Also I used wheel weight lead for mine.

I will be trying them on Halibut this summer. I hope to land a 100+ pounder (or maybe 200)on one of mine.

Edited by Kasilofchrisn
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I realized I forgot to post a pic of my butterfly style jig.

I use a #3 long stainless eye. They are 1.3" long. The stainless #3L eye on top comes down to about the center of the 3D eye on the jig.

I havent tested these yet But I don't forsee any problems with them pulling out at all.

newjigs_zps89132cec.jpgnewjigs2_zpsb11b6e55.jpg

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Pipe jigs are used a lot for halibut. We were just discussing making pipe jigs on an alaska fishing forum.

A poormans jig that can be made to any desireable size relatively cheaply.Scrap copper used to be easy to acquire but not so much anymore with the price of metal at the scrap yard.

 

A lot of butterfly style jigs are rigged with the solid ring and split ring for the assist hooks.

You need the solid ring because split rings have a small possibility of cutting the assist line.

Assist hooks run from the top eye which is also where you attach your line is good for several reasons.

One is less lures snagged on the bottom and lost.

Also many fish like to attack bait fom the head and some like to eat them head first. Fish can't swim backwards so a struggling baitfish in their mouth only swims farther into their mouths. So more hookups on those fish with hooks from the head of your bait.

Also the assist line, instead of a straight split ring and hook, eliminates a lot of leverage a fish would use to pull a hook out.

The line twists instead of the whole jig twisting.

Either way I do like butterfly jigs.

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Fish can't swim backwards... very fast.  I have watched a bass come up, get a good look at my bait, and then back up a little bit before turning and darting away more times than I care to admit.  LOL.

 

(Not so often now that I know about provoking reaction strikes.)

Edited by Bob La Londe
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