Iamsam Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Just getting really into making spinnerbaits and jigs. Is living rubber the way to go for the skirting material? Also I seem to be having some issues pouring the lead on my spinner bait do it mold I am having about 3-4- bad pours out of every 10 or so pours I do. I am using the Eagle Claw L255 4/0 hook on a 3/8 oz head. The hook shows through the side of the bait at times. Mold is the ultra minnow spinner kig mold. weedless football jig mold I have I seem to have no problems with. Thanks, Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 (edited) I think if you check out past threads you will find your answers. Edited March 26, 2013 by JSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 One of my cavities on one of my poison tail jigs would not pour very well. Cadman suggested I get some release agent. I bought Frankfort Arsenal drop out and it solved my problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iamsam Posted March 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 thanks Jig Man I'll have to try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 (edited) The problem you are having with the ultra minnow is a hole right in the middle of the body and one 1 side, correct? If that is the case there are 2 things you can do, the first is get the mold a little hotter before you start to pour, the other is the hooks could possibly be too cool because when that happens to me the hole is usually right on or close to the hook eye. You don't need to do much, put the hook in the mold and close but instead of pouring right away, count to 7 and then pour, and then the other thing you can do is turn the heat up on the pot if you are melting with a lee pot. I can cast jigs with my pot between 6 and 7 but spinnerbaits I turn it to 7 and I leave the mold heat a little longer, to give you an example, I put the mold on top of the pot to heat it up, when pouring jigs I usually can start as soon as the lead melts but when I do spinnerbaits I'll leave it go an extra 5 minutes. I do get in a hurry sometimes and usually a pour or two and I get a hole which reminds me if I'm in a hurry then don't pour the spinnerbaits. Good luck and let us know how it works out. EDIT: BTW....Welcome to the board!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Edited March 27, 2013 by smalljaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 Smoke the mold,then wipe off the excess on the outside of the cavities.You can use a small,butane pencil torch to make 3-4 passes on the hook(inside the mold). This will heat the hook and help the lead complete its path. Make sure you center the hook eye in the deepest part of the body and close the spinner bait wire form around the eye of the hook. Clean,fluxed lead works best. It would be helpful to posses a digital pyrometer to monitor the temperature of your lead. i have molds that pour @ 770 degrees,other @ 825 and then some very difficult,small jigs w/ double barbs that require 925 degrees to pour completely. I've used Frankford Arsenal drop-out but you must wipe away all excess (outside the mold cavity ) or the mold will flash.Waiting to remove this product after it dries will result in the need to use 200 grit, wet-sandpaper to completly remove it.I do like the product for the outside pouring sprue entrance which facilitates easier lead casting removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iamsam Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Thanks guys I never thought about letting the hooks warm up I bet thats my issue. Patience isn't a virtue of mine I'm usually in a hurry on everything I do.. What about living rubbet skirts? I'm thinking about buying some of that and trying it or should I just stick with the precut tab silicon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Thanks guys I never thought about letting the hooks warm up I bet thats my issue. Patience isn't a virtue of mine I'm usually in a hurry on everything I do.. What about living rubbet skirts? I'm thinking about buying some of that and trying it or should I just stick with the precut tab silicon? Thanks guys I never thought about letting the hooks warm up I bet thats my issue. Patience isn't a virtue of mine I'm usually in a hurry on everything I do.. What about living rubbet skirts? I'm thinking about buying some of that and trying it or should I just stick with the precut tab silicon? Living rubber has great action and so does silicone but a lot of guys like living rubber because it seperates faster in the water so it does have more movement on a jig or spinnerbait. The stuff has a lot of drawbacks which is why silicone was made and since silicone I never looked back, rubber clumps up and will melt if left in a hot utility box and once it happens you need to replace it. I have discovered a really good skirt material called Bio-Silk and I only have found it at LPO but it looks and feels and has the action of rubber but it is silicone and just like living rubber it is only available in straight colors, no patterns or flake of anykind. I know how to store living rubber, I had to do it over the winter because my jigs were all living rubber at one time and what I did was store them in a bag with unscented talc, the powder absorbed moisture and kept the strands from sticking together, chalk powder also works but it is a lot of trouble and silicones has a wide range of colors and patterns that break up the outline of a lure so I stick with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
