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Uv Cure- And The Quest For The Perfect Clear Coat


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#1 A-Mac

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 01:40 PM

I've been digging and digging and digging to try to find alternative uc cures.

 

I found this one most recently: 

http://www.epoxies.c...ble-illumabond/

 

This has a list of several clears.  I e-mailed them about a preferred product for non-yellowing and water resistant.  However, you need a high-intensity uv light to make these cure... which are very very expensive.  They said a black light or nail light bulb is not intense enough to fully cure (they recommend an 1100 watt light).

 

I then checked out cureuv.com  

This site had guitar finishes that looked great.  However, the company said that this isn't intended for outdoor use or being submersed in water. 

They recommended a separate product:

http://www.cureuv.co...eaner-19oz.html

 

However, this is an aerosol.  I dug deeper and found this:

http://www.cureuv.co...oating-8oz.html

 

Cureuv said that this provides a hard, clear, non-yellowing, gloss finish.  He said that they have a client that uses this on surfboars... imagine that!  Anyway, I ordered some (more costly than solarez) to try it out.  

 

 

I found other automotive uv cures, but they were also aerosols... at 40 bucks a pop.

 



#2 Nathan

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 02:28 PM

Thanks for taking one for the team!..lol..Can this new product be cured the same way as Solarez?...Nathan

#3 A-Mac

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 05:26 PM

They sell lights (which aren't cheap either), but cure times for sunlight exposure seem comparable to solarez... so I'm hopeful.  

 

It didn't mention any special lighting applications either, which sounds more appealing.  Nevertheless, solarez is pretty kick-ass.  I especially like it for filling in ballast holes.

 

Worst case scenario, I can clear up my headlights!



#4 Nathan

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 11:02 AM

I was on Larry Dalhbergs sight and notice a post the Anglingarcher had made regarding top coats...Larry confirmed that they are about too release a UV top coat.....Nathan

#5 A-Mac

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 05:14 PM

http://www.cureuv.co...oating-8oz.html

 

I tried this product on a lure the other day.  The stuff is water thin.  However, it was easy to brush on and the cure process was a breeze with a nail light.

 

Perfect clarity  and very glossy on a rootbeer chartreuse pattern I painted.  The product seems to be similar in appearance to DN, only easier to use.  I'll post a pic later.

 

I HAVE NOT DONE ANY SUBMERSION TESTS YET!  I haven't done anything other than cure it.

One thing I did notice, this is a flexible finish too.  But it came out better than I was expecting.  The major benefit, none of the timed light cycles necessary for a great looking finish.  I brushed a coat on, let it hang for 2 minutes and recoated.  I put 3 coats on, each coat making a significant contribution to increasing the glossiness of the finish.  



#6 A-Mac

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 07:44 PM

http://i270.photobuc...zps6ce5bac6.jpg

 

the lure on the left has 3 coats of the headlight stuff, the lure on the right is 1 coat of solarez (which is one of my best finishes with the product so far).



#7 mark poulson

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 10:58 PM

http://i270.photobuc...zps6ce5bac6.jpg

 

the lure on the left has 3 coats of the headlight stuff, the lure on the right is 1 coat of solarez (which is one of my best finishes with the product so far).

 

Very nice!!!  You make beautiful baits!

I really like how much working time I have with Solarez, and how quickly it sets once I put it under the UV light.



#8 A-Mac

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 08:12 AM

Appreciate it Mark.  I'm thinking the headlight restorer (HR) might be a better option on resin baits, where the clear coat is not a supporting structure (like on wood).  

I can put 3 coats on with the headlight stuff and cure in about the same time it take to let a lure with solarez drip.  I didn't do any sort of light cycle either with the HR, I just flipped the switch and let it bake for 2 minutes.  I noticed thin spots on the angles of my lures from Solarez, I think 3 coats of the HR provide better corner coverage.

 

Not saying that I won't use my Solarez by any means, but if having a glossy finish is more of a concern, than this may be a better option.

 

Anyway, the part that really matters.  I'm doing a submersion test today for 24 hrs.  I plan to weigh the coated balsa lure before and after to see if water is absorbed.  Will post results tomorrow.



#9 Nathan

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 10:39 AM

Looking forward to hearing your results...Nathan

#10 mark poulson

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 10:43 AM

That is interesting looking stuff.  I have a 2003 Honda Civic with dull headlights.  It will be cheaper to clean and coat them than to replace them.



#11 A-Mac

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 10:26 AM

I removed the lure a few seconds ago.  The finish was still glossy and didn't look or feel any different than before submerging.  

However, the weight increased slightly.

Before submerge: 13.8grams: 214grains

After: 14.3 grams: 222 grains

 

So there was some absorption.  However, I'm not sure how this compares to the other clears, but this is only a 3.6% weight increase.



#12 Jdeee

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 12:12 PM

A-Mac

Why don't you try dip sealing with solarez first, then prime and paint like you normally do and after topping with the HR. That should make your baits waterproof?

Edited by Jdeee, 18 April 2013 - 12:13 PM.


#13 A-Mac

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 12:44 PM

A red lure I posted in the gallery had solarez first over foil.  I polished the solorez before painting and cleared with the HR.  The HR over the Solarez is clear and glossy, it displays the red foil great.