Newby Lessons; No Template?

[joliepa]

As I was saying in the last post, I got alignment problems.  BIG alignment problems on my first carved lure.   It doesn't run, it spirals.... I have the strong preminition its NOT going to run right.  (though I do appreciate the advice on how to try to fix it).

 

but for now, I'm starting over again.

 

This time... Hang the Template.  I liked the one I had alot less when I started carving it, anyway.  my "japenese lure" template was a twig.  very small.  lots of tough to eyeball curves.   a feeble attempt at centerlines was never very accurate. 

 

 

This time I took a compass and found all my centerline first.   I built the hole design on circles. and the idea to cut the least amount that I thought might make a likely shape.   from a block 4" by 1.25"(high) by 1"

 

a big circle 1.25" high , 1.5" from the front.   a half sized circle at the but and bottom of the blank.   a half sized circle in the front.  

a few cutout curves to reduce mass in the front and rear of lure....   Its going to be Fatter than what I like, but until I get a chance to do some accurate ripping on a table saw, I'm trying to keep the amount of material I'm cutting limited.

 

centerlines everywhere.

 

Its kind of like, meditate on the wood and find out the shape It WANTS to be.

 

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Can it be that a newby can make a better Lure Without a template?? this I will tell  you...

 

the lip slot IS finally Definitely strait, the top of the slot was made carefully with a miter and its very strait.  No making the same mistakes...

[mark poulson]

When one of my cranks spirals, it's usually because I don't have enough ballast forward of the belly hook hanger.

In order to figure out how much ballast a new crank needs, I take a successful crank of similar size and shape, either mine or a store bought, and test float it in my water bucket.

I add ballast to my new crank until it hangs at the same angle as the successful crank.

It may not be scientific, but it works.

[joliepa]

ahh..

 

hence the importance of Static angle and how it looks sitting in water, etc.

 

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unfortunately, my goto baits are all beyond me.   my first lure was this paper cutout on the internet and model #2 is more like, whats the simplest way to make this symmetrical and strait.   I intend to try to get something that looks a little more like a usually throw as model #3.  alterations of the basic block of wood will definitely help me get closer to the classic rogue/huskyjerk shape  (but I have to wait to get access to a table saw-- no more handcuts!!!)

 

--

so the approach is going to have to be scientific. 

 

current thinking :

 

Use archimedes dunk test to get close to the right amount of lead.

 

With modeling clay, split shot, and duct tape;   Drill hole, place split shot, fill with clay, duct tape.

 

pull it through water.

 

 

PLAN B is to pour over past threads about weighting baits.  I kind of remember people hanging weights on fishing line slipped on the body with a rubber band.  But if the weight placement is important - I don't see how thats going to show me what the lure will do once the wieghts have been placed in the lures....

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and of course I will try to save the spiraling lure.  first I need to get the lip notch right.

[Travis]

I am a firm believer in making templates.

 

1. It will be repeatable    Can't get too scientific in trying to make a bait if you are "free handing" it every time.  Take the variable out of the equation.

 

2. Easy to put in paint, sketch up, etc.. and resize and tweak.  

 

Heck under 5 minutes and you can have a Rogue template ready to go. Google search will give you 100's of side views and easy to fine color scheme that shows weighting position.   Copy paste into paint, resize, mark line/hook ties, weight positions, go ahead and erase the hooks, then copy and paste until you have a sheet of side templates, and save.  Grab the calipers and a rouge and good to go.

 

I had templates somewhere and have saved them to a disc somewhere.  They aren't exact rogue shape but I think I have caught a fish or two on the design. 

 

 

Edited November 6, 2013 by Travis

[joliepa]

If you find the file Travis, I'd greatly appreciate it.  the "rogue" design is very solid for river walleyes.

 

 

On the other hand for photos.  I've got photos.  It just looks really hard to form.   my first attempt at a curved surface was anything but, symmetrical.   Lure #2 needed to be something a little easier to form.  There's still a huge learning curves for ballast and hardware.

 

 

I was reading old posts though, and one of the regulars pointed out how impossible it was to create a symmetrical shape "by eye" alone.  I'm thinking the secret to symmetry.  (which is the first and most important thing for a newby to figure out), is a methodical procedure in carving.   and that after he has spent some real time in drawing up strait lines.

 

Lure #2 may not be by template, but its a very reproduceable method.   3 circles at precise intervals.  and finished to a very solid common shape,  basically the shad rap  (or if you will an elongated version of Bob P's avatar).

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By the way if my hardheaded stubborn nature isn't obvious enough, know that I greatly appreciate ALL of the advice.   I've resolved 'to do it my way' MOSTLY 'cause part of this hobby is figuring out whether something will work and because I'd like to understand what doing XYZ does to a plug.

 

but I'm sure to botch up many more plugs than just the first one, and some clever better way of doing it, will greatly appeal to me once my own attempts have failed.

----

 

I'd be really thrilled to make a rogue or something that is very similar to one though.  Have you travis fished your rogue lure.  was it as good at catching fish?

 

 

 

[Travis]

Carving symmetrical is difficult at first but with a little practice one can get pretty darn close, well close enough it isn't going to effect performance.  I always start with squared stock and a sharp knife.  Sharp is very important and sharp to some isn't sharp.  If you like woodworking in general  HOCK TOOLS: The Perfect Edge is an very good book about sharpening anything one would want and the science/metallurgy behind it.

 

With a square blank I will then start to pare away the wood and just repeat on each side mimicking blade angle and depth of cut.  Controlled pull strokes towards my thumb and it is like carving butter.  If one is using any force at all the knife isn't sharp (I use basswood and paulowina some).  A few lures and you will be knocking them out in no time.

[joliepa]

I've been chipping away at the first few of them over the weekend.

In thinking through the title at little... I think I may be misleading. There IS a template. Indeed there is a pretty detailed shape and its not that far from many other lures.

But instead of getting some kind shape online, then cutting around it. The idea is to start with a couple circles and a centerline and a few other measurements. with the point that this design needs to be simple to cut, a minimal amount of curves, with as many strait lines as possible.

In the interest that some other newby's might want to try this shape (or approach) here is the rest of the build.

First with a ruler and a compass the shape is sketched onto the sides of the lure

With a coping saw cut the shape. Cut the lip slot with a miter.

now carve and shape. Given the dimensions of the block (1" x 5/8" wide) the resulting lure is somewhat flat sided.

at this point my thoughts about carving seem to be Right on. make things simple and its easier to keep things symmtrical.

I don't know if the lure is symmtrical ENOUGH, but it is a far better job than my first attempt. Maybe I'm just doing it with more confidence cause its MY design... and I love doing things my way.

[scrubs]

One thing you may find helpful is drawing lines with a soft pencil perpendicular to the centerline. If you check these from the front and back uneven spots will be easier to find. Make sure it's a soft pencil tho, don't want to dent the surface.

 

bill

[joliepa]

you know, I think I will attempt a "grandma" shape this weekend...

Here is one HUGE thing I have been finding out about making lures. The first time always seems to go bad. I think the first time, I am just to sloppy and unfamiliar with the process. but after a few mistakes you quickly pick up on exactly what matters and how close it has to be.

besides, there are things I want to copy and try. a circle and a line isn't the guide for every lure...

so to the newbies, I have changed my mind. Use your templates! but then don't be afraid to ditch one if you don't like the way its going. perhaps you are just not ready for some shapes or possible kinds of lures....

[MuddyCreekFisherman]

im new to this as well and was wondering if they (lure parts online) make pre-made ballast weights or do you make them yourself???

[RayburnGuy]

LPO does have the ready made belly weights. I think they come in sizes from 2 to 6 grams and they have the hook hanger already molded into the weight.

 

Ben