Wire Guards

[CarverGLX]

Originally sent this as a private message but thought that several
will benefit from this and don't plan on making a living making baits
anytime soon. If anyone has listed this as a method before I apologize
and I'm not trying to steal your thunder. So here goes:

 

Whenever I first started pouring jigs I did so because I wanted wire
guard jigs and there weren't a lot of options. I tried several different
methods of putting in wire guards..... many of which are listed above.

One day I got tired of guards falling out with the various methods
and decided I would come up with a way to have the wire/cable around the
hook to prevent this from happening. The insulated coverings worked but
were aggravating and stretched, burned..... So I tried to come up with
another collar idea to keep this from happening. I needed a stiffer more
durable tube.... something metal. It hit me... the metal sleeves used
on the cable in the first place!

 

These sleeves are perfectly sized to two strands of the cable and are
made of steel. The 90# cable that others are using is what I generally
use and fits perfectly and tightly into a size 4 sleeve. I sometimes
also use 135# cable for flipping jigs which will fit into a size 5
sleeve. 100 of these cost around $5 and they are indefinitely reusable.

 

To make this happen cut a length of wire (4-5 inches) and double it
over forming a loop. Insert the tag ends into the steel leader sleeve
and adjust the loop to what will be left in the head. Run the loop over
the hook shank and pour. Never get it out without remelting. Wires also
generally sit side by side in the mold instead of front to back.

 

The football mold that uses the FG-12 guards may have to be slightly
modified to do this. I am away from my pouring stuff at the moment or I
would check mine. Go almost into the mold using an 1/8" bit and a drill
press. Or an easier quicker option is to close the mold on a bit with a
hand drill and a partner and slowly apply tension to the handles to
close the mold on the bit held at the depth you want it. I suggest as
close as you can get to the cavity without going in. this keeps the
wires tighter and prevents much flashing.

 

Other important tips:

-remove sleeve and separate wires before powder paint curing

-clean powder paint off wires before curing with your fingers

-Trim wires evenly to about the barb of the hook or a little shorter.

-Larger size hooks take heaver cable to get the weedguard effect. Bending forward and bringing wires together helps too.

!!!!!---Burn coating off the wire that will remain inside the head as it will create a gas bubble when pouring.... hollow pours.

-you can also burn all the coating off a strand of wire to get a lighter flex wire.

!!!!!---- Wear a respirator when burning off coating. Burning vinyl isn't very healthy.

-Hold the spout slighly off the mold (still touching but not pressed
tight)  and slightly tilted when pouring to avoid flash and partial
pours.

 

Hope this helps and give it a try. Wire guards are worth the effort.

[andy1976]

Sounds like a gold idea. I'm not seeing any pics though. Do you have any?

[Curt - NC]

Sounds like a gold idea. I'm not seeing any pics though. Do you have any?

 

Ditto here. No pics showing up, but I'm assuming that you didn't post any?

[CarverGLX]

Sounds like a gold idea. I'm not seeing any pics though. Do you have any?

That would help. I will try to get some up in a week or two when I get back to my bait making stuff... Different state at the moment.

[CarverGLX]

Originally sent this as a private message but thought that several

will benefit from this and don't plan on making a living making baits

anytime soon. If anyone has listed this as a method before I apologize

and I'm not trying to steal your thunder. So here goes:

Whenever I first started pouring jigs I did so because I wanted wire

guard jigs and there weren't a lot of options. I tried several different

methods of putting in wire guards..... many of which are listed above.

One day I got tired of guards falling out with the various methods

and decided I would come up with a way to have the wire/cable around the

hook to prevent this from happening. The insulated coverings worked but

were aggravating and stretched, burned..... So I tried to come up with

another collar idea to keep this from happening. I needed a stiffer more

durable tube.... something metal. It hit me... the metal sleeves used

on the cable in the first place!

These sleeves are perfectly sized to two strands of the cable and are

made of steel. The 90# cable that others are using is what I generally

use and fits perfectly and tightly into a size 4 sleeve. I sometimes

also use 135# cable for flipping jigs which will fit into a size 5

sleeve. 100 of these cost around $5 and they are indefinitely reusable.

To make this happen cut a length of wire (4-5 inches) and double it

over forming a loop. Insert the tag ends into the steel leader sleeve

and adjust the loop to what will be left in the head. Run the loop over

the hook shank and pour. Never get it out without remelting. Wires also

generally sit side by side in the mold instead of front to back.

The football mold that uses the FG-12 guards may have to be slightly

modified to do this. I am away from my pouring stuff at the moment or I

would check mine. Go almost into the mold using an 1/8" bit and a drill

press. Or an easier quicker option is to close the mold on a bit with a

hand drill and a partner and slowly apply tension to the handles to

close the mold on the bit held at the depth you want it. I suggest as

close as you can get to the cavity without going in. this keeps the

wires tighter and prevents much flashing.

Other important tips:

-remove sleeve and separate wires before powder paint curing

-clean powder paint off wires before curing with your fingers

-Trim wires evenly to about the barb of the hook or a little shorter.

-Larger size hooks take heaver cable to get the weedguard effect. Bending forward and bringing wires together helps too.

!!!!!---Burn coating off the wire that will remain inside the head as it will create a gas bubble when pouring.... hollow pours.

-you can also burn all the coating off a strand of wire to get a lighter flex wire.

!!!!!---- Wear a respirator when burning off coating. Burning vinyl isn't very healthy.

-Hold the spout slighly off the mold (still touching but not pressed

tight) and slightly tilted when pouring to avoid flash and partial

pours.

Hope this helps and give it a try. Wire guards are worth the effort.

[andy1976]

Nice I will. try that.

[Curt - NC]

Pics make it much clearer! Thanks for adding them