capt mike Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 I have been using line thru inserts that I ordered online for pouring my soft swimbaits. After a few months, they begin to corrode inside and change the plastic to a green color. My store bought Osprey Talons have a similar insert inside, but that does not occur. What in the world is going on here? Am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Maybe you need to coat your inserts. I have line-thru swimbaits that have inserts which turned white over time. It's the lead oxidizing. Maybe a coat of clear nail polish, or even a topcoat dip, will do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt mike Posted December 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 is that what you have done in the past Mark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baitjunkys Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Material is low grade of the insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt mike Posted December 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Material is low grade of the insert. What do you recommend? These were from basstackle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) I haven't tried it, but it shouldn't ruin the insert or the bait. I'm thinking of trying the nail polish on a lead-weighted hook that I pour into a swimbait mold I have. If and when I do it, I'll let you know how it comes out. Edited December 31, 2013 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baitjunkys Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 They are aluminum correct? Are they being used in saltwater? Generally 5052 has better corrosion resistance. Than 6061. 6061 is generally found in machined products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadfrog Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Epoxy coat the ones you have and then find another source for the next ones . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baitjunkys Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 I wouldn't think it is activating with the plastic, the molds don't. If you examine your molds closely you will also find some manufacturers use less grade aluminum in building them. Good idea on epoxying them, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painter1 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Are these made with dissimilar metals? Add salt and water to that and corrosion is assured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 (edited) With LEAD You are going to get the corrosion . As TF said coat them with Epoxy or Powder Paint. I am not fimiliar with what Aluminum will do over a course of time. With Molds you are not letting the Plastilsol COAT or Sit for any length of time ... I have cast Aluminmu Molds from back in the 60's and the only ones that have any corrosin are those that got wet accidently in storage. In regards to Nail Polish .. unless it has been changed .... WILL react with the plastisol .. the Nail polish reacts as the same with Lacquer. Hope that helps Edited January 1, 2014 by JSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 With LEAD You are going to get the corrosion . As TF said coat them with Epoxy or Powder Paint. I am not fimiliar with what Aluminum will do over a course of time. With Molds you are not letting the Plastilsol COAT or Sit for any length of time ... I have cast Aluminmu Molds from back in the 60's and the only ones that have any corrosin are those that got wet accidently in storage. In regards to Nail Polish .. unless it has been changed .... WILL react with the plastisol .. the Nail polish reacts as the same with Lacquer. Hope that helps Thanks for the heads up. I'll stick to a top coat, and see how that works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt mike Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Where can I get good inserts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baitjunkys Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Where can I get good inserts? I dont think there is any other options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) The ones I have seen have a stingy coat of chrome over brass. If the chrome plate was better the inserts would be better. Alternatively have a shop make a couple thousand of them out of 303 stainless on a CNC lathe. I make poured lead ones for my own use now. I don't leave them in the bait long though usually. I make them up a few days before I plan to use them, and they get tore up. As soon as I finish the CNC conversion on my mini lathe I plan to change over to stainless, so I can make them up further in advance and keep them in my boat. I had planned to experiment with coatings, but never got around to it. Aluminum is easy to cut, and doesn't react (much) with the plastic, but its also pretty light when compared to steel or brass. You could have aluminum ones made pretty cheap. Stainless ones cost a litlte more partly due to material cost, and partly because stainless is a bit of a pain to machine. Notice I specifcally said 303? That's because its one of the "easier" to machine stainless alloys. There are some other alloys that machine ok too, but... if you have some made let your shop decide which stainless alloy they like for it. It will be the one they will give you the best quote on. Edited January 5, 2014 by Bob La Londe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt mike Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 My next idea is to use a urethane plastic resin insert that I cast myself. Do you think that will react with plastisol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 How are you going to get enough weight with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baitjunkys Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 How much wait you need? All I want a line thru for is a little ballast.My plastic will get it to sink as fast as I want. Pour a little splitshot into the resin if you want more weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 (edited) Well, I designed the mold for one of the popular west coast line throughs and they had some very specific weight requirements. One required 3/8 ounces, and another required 1/2 oz. In order to get what they wanted in a compact size they went with coated lead. I never asked what they coated it with. I did their lead molds too. Like I said, for my own I use lead, but I make them up a few days before (sometimes the night before) I plan to use them. I plan to make stainless inserts shortly so I can keep baits in my boat for extended periods. I've found an alloy that turns well. Seems to turn better than generic 303. If it drills well on the lathe making a couple hundred of them for my own use will be the breakin project for the newly converted cnc lathe. I just need to get a bigger t-slot table to make the cross slide for the saddle to acomodate my gang tooling. On the flip side, I can see using just enough ballast to keep them upright for waking them, but big fat swimbaits surface so easily anyway that its kind of a moot point. Edited January 7, 2014 by Bob La Londe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinamike Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Capt Mike, LureWorks makes a special coating for this purpose. So you can use your same inserts without any adverse effects. Also, this coating will make the plastic adhere to the insert. With this material you should get very satisfing results. I can't remember the name of it right off just call Bruce at ext. 106, tell him what you need, and he will fix you right up. You may have to leave him a message but he will call you back. Their number is 912-225-4533. This should take care of your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt mike Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 How are you going to get enough weight with that? I will make it big enough (not too big) to add the weight I need. And, like baitjunky said, I can always add lead to the resin pour which will lock the lead in and not react with the plastisol. I like a slow sinker that works like the Osprey Talon. Im using fairly small inserts from Basstackle in a 5oz platic swimbait. It barely gets the baits to swim straight. Too fast and it goes sideways. But it's slow enough to fish deep. My only question is, will the resin react with the plastisol. Carolina Mike, thanks for that info. I will definitely look into that coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lajo1976 Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Its called Bondcoat http://www.ispikeit.com/Store/p-691-bondcoat-glue-4849.aspx 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
