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DR609BASS

Chatterbait Blades

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Hi guys. I am going to make spinnerbaits and make some chatterbaits for myself with the spinnerbait heads. I've tried using the coffin style blades from lurepartsonline and attaching them with 2 split rings on some of my weedless brush jigs with not so good results. I then tried bending the blade back towards the head slightly and it seemed to help but didn't completely stop the blade from rolling over and not vibrating during part of the retrieve.That is why I'm going to make some out of spinnerbait molds. I also bought the more rounded style blades vs the coffin style this time. My question is do others bend the blade back like I mentioned to get a better action? And also tips for chatterbait marking. Im going to make them With the ultra minnow spinnerbait mold the smaller 1/4 to 1/2 oz size mold.Any responses will be much appreciated! Thanks

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The problem you are having is 2-fold, the first is the coffin shaped blades from LPO are magnum size, the smaller "bass" size are patented by Z-Man, so those big blades need a larger head to create sufficient force for them to vibrate which is why placing a bend was able to help. The second reason is the head itself, most heads do work but some are better than others, I have used the double split ring set up with the Snootie jig and it worked fantastic, you got a lot of movement as the double split ring allowed an exaggerated side to side action. I also make one with a spinnerbait head and .040 wire and this way is cool because it allows you to really control the action. My friend that goes fishing with me a lot likes a hard vibrating bait without the side to side movement, more like a spinnerbait, he says he can work it around cover better. Anyway, I can make it do that by attaching the blade to the wire with 2" of wire between the blade and the head, I like some movement but I also like the blade to tick the head slightly for sound, to do this I simply attach the blade right at the head, the bottom of the blade barely hits the top of the spinnerbait head so you get some sound but not much. Experiment with it but first thing you need to do is use the regular rounded blades as the only coffin or hex blades available to us are the musky size blades.

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I had a few lighter wire, heavy bodied spinnerbaits that would break right behind or at the R bend.  If I got one back with a broken off blade section, or if one broke when I was tuning it after a fish, that's when I made the chatterbaits out of them. 

They used the lighter wire on only their deeper runners, for some reason.

It sucked, but they caught fish.

I don't think the chatterbaits with the longer wire catch more fish, at least the ones I've made.  In fact, since I throw them in off colored water, or over submerged grass, I think having the vibrating blade removed somewhat from the lure is a liability, since the fish hone in on the vibration.  And the longer wire catches more grass because the bait hangs down deeper, at least for me.

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Most of the "Chatterbaits" that I make are with an open-eye hook, linked directly to the blade. This seems to give the best action. The only downside feedback so far seems to be that when used a lot around rocks, the hooks don't stay as sharp as the pro's would like. These type of hooks are not tempered as hard so they can be bent closed and not break. I'm in the process of testing a new idea and using a harder tempered EWG hook in a pro-series now.

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I took a piece of hard metal and drilled a hole in it right on the edge with my drill press just big enough to relieve the tip of my center punch as I hit the eye of Mustad hook to open it up just enough to slip your Chatterbait blade on. After the eye of the hook is open, cover eye (your favorite technique) and powder paint. Last step is add your blade and close eye back with pair of pliers. Like Smalljaw, I use the rounded small blades from Jann's. Good luck!

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I had a few lighter wire, heavy bodied spinnerbaits that would break right behind or at the R bend.  If I got one back with a broken off blade section, or if one broke when I was tuning it after a fish, that's when I made the chatterbaits out of them. 

They used the lighter wire on only their deeper runners, for some reason.

It sucked, but they caught fish.

I don't think the chatterbaits with the longer wire catch more fish, at least the ones I've made.  In fact, since I throw them in off colored water, or over submerged grass, I think having the vibrating blade removed somewhat from the lure is a liability, since the fish hone in on the vibration.  And the longer wire catches more grass because the bait hangs down deeper, at least for me.

 

The lighter wire baits definitely have more vibration.  I don't recall the brand, but one production line has all lighter wire, and the guys I know who use them swap baits after every big fish in a tournament.  They save the beat up ones for fun fishing.  There is one manufacturer who makes a bait with a heavy wire from the R-bend to the head, and a light wire above the R-Bend.  I've had the light wire wear out and break, but its never cost me a fish because of the design.  

 

http://www.yumaproam.com/dualconcept.html

 

He is small but does sell all over the country.  If anybody is interested in them I can get you in touch with Manuel.   Manuel says he has broken the lower part of one.... fishing for yellowtail.  LOL.  

 

Dual%20Concept%202.JPG

Edited by Bob La Londe
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I have not really looked into it to see how its done.  I would probably silver solder (plumbing solder not lead) and then crimp sleeve it.  I might even go so far as to make my own crimp sleeves that are an exact fit for the wire sizes, but I don't know exactly how Manuel does his nor would I ask him.  I just buy them from him.  If I wanted to make my own I already said how I would do it.  

 

This was one of three brands of spinnerbait I used to buy.  

 

Secret Weapon

Nichols

King Cobra

 

Now that he has a good white pearl color I no longer buy the Nichols.  

 

Oh, yeah.  I think Willy Wacker is the name of the one that is all light wire construction.  

Edited by Bob La Londe
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