ChilliSpoons Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 I know that thin coats are the answer for laying down paint but I find multiple thin coats with my airbrush to be very tedious. The plugs that I paint are used plugs that I lightly sand prior to laying down my base. I was hoping that I could use a product like Krylon or Tremclad as a base. I use AutoAir and Createx paints followed by concrete sealer for my clear. I thoroughly heat set between coats but I'm curios if the rattle can base would react negatively with these other products. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silo1688 Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 I build custom balsa plugs. after I seal the wood with superglue I'll use rattle can white primer/sealer. In fact I'll use my of my base color with rattle can, normally flat or a low satin. I noted the Ctex pain will still stick to it as well. then I'll use the airbrush for details. I hate cleaning out my airbrush. I'm too impatient. this works really well for me. I also use ACC for topcoat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Chili, since the basecoat and topcoat are both solvent based, you won't know whether they react badly until you try them. Some do, some don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 If it helps I use rustoleum cut with a bit of acetone for my base after sealing the blank twice with gst. I dip and hang them till dry. I also use gst as my topcoat. I've never had a problem. I can't see why rattle can wouldn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChilliSpoons Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Thanks Guys for the info. I'm definitely going to try the rattle can base on at least a few plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kustom Krankz Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 I ran out of create white one day and looked over to the side and there was a can of .99 walmart white spray paint- what the heck lets give it a try- worked great--just takes a little longer to dry- I have used d2t and mcu as a clear on it and it worked good for me- mike <::>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChilliSpoons Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 .99 rattle can from Walmart. I like that idea. Cheap and easy, just like me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveG Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Yes it works I use rattle can base matt white just make sure you allow proper drying before using Createx water based paints and you should not get a reaction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChilliSpoons Posted April 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 Now the next test will be how the Concrete Sealer reacts to these paint combinations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bass Man Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 I use Krylon Fusion for a base coat & have been for years, without any kind of trouble. It may not work with all clears, but works fine using BSI for clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 You may run into a problem with your concrete sealer...If Your base coat is enamel and enamels usually don't play nice with most of these sealers...you should know with in a few minutes if it is going to work...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Do a test before you break your heart on a finished lure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 I use rattle can white primer (water based) as a base coat and seal with GST. No problems here. I just have to wait a bit for the base to dry. I hate cleaning my airbrush as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt M Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 I use rattle can white primer than base coat is brush on cheap acrylic craft paint. I do detail work with Createx in an airbrush then top coat with ACC. I find the primer gives the bait a brighter finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChilliSpoons Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I never realized that water based rattle can paints existed. I'll definitely start with that option. And Yes, cleaning an airbrush is one of the least desirable parts of this whole painting hobby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 What is it about cleaning your airbrush between color changes that you guys hate so much? I'm not understanding because it only takes a few seconds. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhersh Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 What is it about cleaning your airbrush between color changes that you guys hate so much? I'm not understanding because it only takes a few seconds. Ben x2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChilliSpoons Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I wouldn't say that cleaning the airbrush is my favorite thing to do but it is all part of this hobby. But I do find the task of laying down multiple layers of a white base to be tedious and I wanted a shortcut. I have experimented with some spoons that we're previously painted and then clear coated with Rattle Can clears by dipping them in my concrete sealer. There wasn't any wrinkling or lifting of the paint which surprised me. Maybe the properties of my concrete sealer are somewhat different than GST concrete sealer commonly used on this forum. Let the experimentation continue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Thanks Chilli. I was just wondering if there was something we might be able to do to help speed up the cleaning process, but if you've got a system that's working for you then I wouldn't mess with it. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChilliSpoons Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Here is my cleaning process on my Paasche Talon: Using Auto-Air or Createx Wicked paints Between Color changes: -Rinse the bowl thoroughly with warm water -Spray water through the airbrush and backflush the bowl numerous times until clean -Sometimes I'll spray some Isopropyl Alcohol through which seems to clear things out really well. At the end of the painting session: Same as above except: -Use some Fantastic in the bowl and allow to soak for a couple of minutes -Spray the Fantastic through the airbrush -Disassemble the airbrush and wipe the needle clean -Clean the tip with denture toothpicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Thanks Chilli. I was just wondering if there was something we might be able to do to help speed up the cleaning process, but if you've got a system that's working for you then I wouldn't mess with it. Ben Ben, Lately the fails I've had painting have been when my eclipse starts spattering. It seems like I have to "pump" the airbrush to get any color to come out and when it does, it spatters at first. Now I do clean between colors but it still seems that this happens too often. I'm wondering if I need to give it a bath in acetone again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Ben, Lately the fails I've had painting have been when my eclipse starts spattering. It seems like I have to "pump" the airbrush to get any color to come out and when it does, it spatters at first. Now I do clean between colors but it still seems that this happens too often. I'm wondering if I need to give it a bath in acetone again. It's possible you could have some dried gunk in your airbrush and it may be that you need to thin your paint a little or even turn up the air pressure. You may need to strain your paint as well because even tiny clumps can cause your brush to spatter. As far as making sure your airbrush is clean I like to soak mine in Createx Airbrush Restorer a couple times a year or whenever the need arises. My personal preferences as far as paint and air pressure is to thin the paint so that it can be sprayed at pressures as low as 5 psi. And that's why I'm a bit of a fanatic about keeping my airbrush clean. I can promise you that's not possible with paint that hasn't been thinned or with a dirty airbrush. As far as cleaning between color changes a lot depends on the paint being sprayed as to how I clean it. For paints with lots of pigment in them, such as white, I first clean the bowl thoroughly with water and then dump that water out of the bowl without spraying it. If the bowl doesn't come completely clean I repeat the process. When the bowl is clean I back flush with water alternating between back flushing and spraying. With colors like white I then run a bowl of acetone through the brush back flushing as I do so. For a lot of colors you can skip the acetone. Most transparent paints and pearl paints (the ones I use anyway) are easily cleaned with just water. You'll be able to tell which colors you can clean with water and which ones need a shot of acetone once you start paying attention to that part of it. (not saying you don't do that already) Reading this may make you think that's an awful lot of steps and will take a lot of time, but once you do it a few times, and know what to look for, it probably takes me less than a minute to make sure my brush is clean. For me it's much easier and faster to keep a brush clean than it is to deal with the problems you can run into when it's not. The steps I go through are not carved in stone. No doubt others have a cleaning process that works for them and it may not even be close to what I do. This is just what works for me. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) It's possible you could have some dried gunk in your airbrush and it may be that you need to thin your paint a little or even turn up the air pressure. You may need to strain your paint as well because even tiny clumps can cause your brush to spatter. As far as making sure your airbrush is clean I like to soak mine in Createx Airbrush Restorer a couple times a year or whenever the need arises. My personal preferences as far as paint and air pressure is to thin the paint so that it can be sprayed at pressures as low as 5 psi. And that's why I'm a bit of a fanatic about keeping my airbrush clean. I can promise you that's not possible with paint that hasn't been thinned or with a dirty airbrush. As far as cleaning between color changes a lot depends on the paint being sprayed as to how I clean it. For paints with lots of pigment in them, such as white, I first clean the bowl thoroughly with water and then dump that water out of the bowl without spraying it. If the bowl doesn't come completely clean I repeat the process. When the bowl is clean I back flush with water alternating between back flushing and spraying. With colors like white I then run a bowl of acetone through the brush back flushing as I do so. For a lot of colors you can skip the acetone. Most transparent paints and pearl paints (the ones I use anyway) are easily cleaned with just water. You'll be able to tell which colors you can clean with water and which ones need a shot of acetone once you start paying attention to that part of it. (not saying you don't do that already) Reading this may make you think that's an awful lot of steps and will take a lot of time, but once you do it a few times, and know what to look for, it probably takes me less than a minute to make sure my brush is clean. For me it's much easier and faster to keep a brush clean than it is to deal with the problems you can run into when it's not. The steps I go through are not carved in stone. No doubt others have a cleaning process that works for them and it may not even be close to what I do. This is just what works for me. Ben I think we Hi-jacked this thread!!I appreciate the advise. I think I know the culprit now that I have been thinking about it. It seems that my paint bottles (createx) have gotten some dried gunk around the spout. Also, I got a wicked color and it seems to be the one that clogs things up. Yes, I shake them up first but I don't strain them. I think it's time to ask the wife to borrow her nylons. Edited April 11, 2014 by FrogAddict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Wasn't even thinking about highjacking the thread. Sorry about that Chilli. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChilliSpoons Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 No Apologies needed. I'm a newbie and struggle with consistency when laying down paint and find some of the comments may be related to some of those issues. When mixing paint it seems like "Thin to Win" is the trick and trying a rattle can base may not worth the risk when top coating with a concrete sealer. I'll continue to spray numerous layers of a white base to save possible negative paint reactions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
