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Wiggle Wart Question?

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I just recieved the 8 wiggle warts I bought from a seller on ebay. He sent the lures with hooks, and he had size 2 hooks on the front and size six on the back. Is this how the pre rapala warts came from storm? Also, 5 lures had the lead rattle rusted so it wouldn't rattle, I was not happy! The 5 that were bad are the clear lures, the solid colored baits were good!

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They came stock with #5 hooks. They can be hard to find. I would put a 4 on the front and a 6 on the back. On the ones that won't rattle, you can sometimes smack the wart on a table sideways and it breaks the rattles loose. You might have to smack it a couple of thimnes

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A lot of thoughts have been expressed on why the WW was such a great fish catcher.  Some proposed that it was the lip design, but the Rapala versions are the same.  Some say it is the version of the rattle that caused a different sound, but a lot of other older lures had a very similar sound (lead thud).

 

I suppose you might have just stumbled on shy they are/were so effective, and so much more then Rapala's new version.  The erratic and unique swim may be due to the corroded (lead does not rust - but the oxide is formed the same way) rattles stick on the swim and changes the action before they release and allow the lure to go back the other way.

 

 

Hmmmmmm, how do we recreate that intentionally?

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A lot of thoughts have been expressed on why the WW was such a great fish catcher. Some proposed that it was the lip design, but the Rapala versions are the same. Some say it is the version of the rattle that caused a different sound, but a lot of other older lures had a very similar sound (lead thud).

I suppose you might have just stumbled on shy they are/were so effective, and so much more then Rapala's new version. The erratic and unique swim may be due to the corroded (lead does not rust - but the oxide is formed the same way) rattles stick on the swim and changes the action before they release and allow the lure to go back the other way.

Hmmmmmm, how do we recreate that intentionally?

You could excellerate the lead oxidation before putting the ball into a chamber in the plastic bait. Preditor baits is attempting to remake the wart right now from the other wart post. They look great in the pics.

I believe this action is much more than just the lead ball sticking however. Looking at many of these baits there is great inconsistency (storm. Not preditor). I have warts you would swear are smaller or thinner than a standard wart. They aren't wee warts either. I have others that have dimples in the bills. Some line ties are barely exposed, some way out and exposed well....

The wart action is a combination of factors:

Sticking rattle

Thin lip edge

Slight lip curl

Tow point placement

Lip angle

Lip area

These last three resulting in presentation of area of lip that is subject to diving force.

A bait that had a rattle that would occasionally stick would be a good option and should work. If you make it though everyone will call it junk. The public expects lures to work as machines and would consider this a flaw. Great idea though from a fish catching standpoint. Some mechanical system that doesn't rely on oxidation would be best from a sales standpoint so it is without doubt intentional. Some have previously mentioned magnets. Wart success came from people using the baits and catching fish and large distribution. They built them to SELL. Fish catching came as a nice bonus and all this is likely a fine coincidence, occasional slop, multiple molds......

You must build a bait that is right to the point of blowout from the three lower factors above. Even then you will make some that won't run due to inconsistencies.

So... You must make something consistent enough to sell, tweaked to the point of instability, but not so far as it create a lure that won't run for Goober to complain about. Lol. If you are building them for yourself you can build them right to the edge though. Good luck.

Edited by CarverGLX
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I have made hunting cranks by drilling a crossways hole low in the belly, and just behind the front hook hanger.  I

determine how much ballast I need, and then subtract the weight of a .22 caliber sst ball bearing that I put in the crossways hole, so it's free to move from side to side.  

It's tricky to get the amount of side to side movement right, but it give the bait a darting side to side action, when the ball is shifted from one side to the other during the retrieve, changing the center of gravity.

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