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Jaw

Small Crankbait Fishing Opinions

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My question is this. What set up do you guys use when fishing small light baits like rapalla #5 shadraps or other ultra light baits? I have used curado 50es on finesse rods also have a 50 model core that I've used. I've also tried spin cranking rods and 2000 to 2500 series spinning reels. Both have worked with different levels of success in different scenarios. I've even debated trying one of my zo2s that I use for crappie fishing spooled with 8lb line paired with a st croix premier light crankbait rod. Just curious what your best set up would be for lighter baits with minimum drawbacks. Just food for thought thanks

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For me, anything below 1/4 oz (a #5 Shadrap is 3/16) gets a ML spinning rod and 6 or 8 lb line.  The reel size doesn't matter but all mine are 2500 size.  If conditions are very calm I can throw them on my 50E or Scorpion 1000 and a very soft tipped rod - but I'm hoping the wind will be blowing!  And if it is, I'll go where it is creating a current to fish that Shadrap.

 

I say this a a dyed in the wool baitcaster fisherman.  I'll do anything to avoid using a spinning reel - except not be able to fish efficiently.

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Like BobP, I do my best to avoid cranking with a spinning reel.  After a long day, wrist fatigue will add up.  However, I do use a spinning setup for most 1/4 oz and for anything below that.  I like a 7', medium power, preferably in a moderate fast action.  The deeper flex can allow your bait more freedom to work properly, let the fish take the bait deeper, and is nice for absorbing hard runs and head shakes.  My reels are 20 and 30 size Quantums.  The larger frames tend to have a wider spool, that can aid in line management and greater capacity.  They may also have a more powerful drag.  My reels make the occasional trip to the coast for redfish, and the stout drag and larger line capacity are nice.  I'm not throwing these baits in water that's especially clear.  I'm also not concerned with max depth, so I like 12lb line.  I've used mono, fluoro, and braid (with and without a clear leader) and all have their selling points.  The spinning rig can be nice with light baits in the wind.  I also use them in smaller streams where casting angles are sometimes tricky.  The spinning gear is more forgiving in these situations.

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So what are you looking for Jaw? What do you want the setup to do? I would think a spinning rod with 6 to 8 lb test would be good. If you want to throw it with a baitcaster then I would think the 50 Core would do good. I mean if you are really going to thow the light stuff a lot then there are baitcasters that can thow it well. You could probably find a lighter spool for the Core and get some great performance out of it. You can change bearings in the reel or you can do some polishing on the interal parts. Or there are reels that are already to go for the light stuff. The only draw back to all of this is the cost factor. It takes some money to buy or rebuild a reel for finese.

 

I throw the Shad Rap a lot. I have several rods that I throw it with.

 

*  6'9" Kistler Argon crankbait rod

*  6'6" Kistler LTA crankbait rod

*  6'6" Castaway Med. crankbait rod  (this is a 16 yr old rod built with the old GLoomis blank.) It is even telescopic.

 

Reels

*  Shimano Scorpion 1000

*  Shimano Chronarch MG 50

They are both spooled with 10lb Suffix Elite

 

One secret that I can give you is to put a #6 Owner ST-41 treble hook on the belly. It adds weight to the bait and honestly helps the bait cast better. It does not hurt the action of the bait and your hookups will really improve. Do not change the back hook. It will add too much weight to the bait and make it sink. This little change will really help you throw it better.

 

Skeeter

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Skeeter my systems work fine I like to use my 50 e curado on a finesse wright and McGill 7ft fluke rod the most when throwing lighter baits I've got a few crankbait rods that work and I would rather use them than my spinning gear was just curious if someone had something different going on I know there are some different finesse reals coming out from Abu but not sure if they are worth the price may have to wait and see some reviews on them before I consider a purchase thanks for the feedback

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Skeeter my systems work fine I like to use my 50 e curado on a finesse wright and McGill 7ft fluke rod the most when throwing lighter baits I've got a few crankbait rods that work and I would rather use them than my spinning gear was just curious if someone had something different going on I know there are some different finesse reals coming out from Abu but not sure if they are worth the price may have to wait and see some reviews on them before I consider a purchase thanks for the feedback

 

Ask your question here:  http://forums.tackletour.com/viewforum.php?f=47&sid=3640b43dac5fe1e4dcf8669250d1a5de

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I mainly end up using a tricked out older Abu Pro Max or Daiwa Fuego for smaller baits.  The rods I use are some ML BPS Pro XPS Finesse Rods that were around for a few years.  I bought 3 for under a 100 when the were getting rid of them and the price is right as they end up broken eventually when I am snaking through the woods to get the smallie creek.

 

I am fishing shallow waters with lots of hang ups so Suffix 832.  With the rod action no issues with loosing fish and can usually get the crank back when needed.   Fishing the lake still find myself using mono Suffix the past few years. 

Edited by Travis
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Thanks for all the information guys I was just curious about what others were using. Skeeter and Bob I must admit ignorance about what a shimano scorpion was and also being able to get spool and bearing upgrades just looked them up and I really like the scorpions reviews but not sure if I am ready to shell out the bucks for it right now probably stick with my core and curado untill they bite the dust shame I can't find that model curado new anymore I guess it's been discontinued so you have to get a chronarch now. Thanks for the link Mark l will check it out but it was just interesting finding out how my choices stacked up to everyone elses

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I got my Scorpion 1000 more than 10 yrs ago when they were selling for around $150 from Japan.  Its claim to fame is the VBS centrifugal braking system that is externally dial adjustable, plus a very light spool.  It casts great but frankly, the retrieve is rather rough compared to most of my other Shimanos.  I added a longer handle to my 1000 because it seems to almost bind with the short Japanese handle when reeling heavier baits.  I seem to remember that Shimano is shipping a reel with VBS into the U.S. domestic market now?  But Shimano seems to be moving their whole reel lineup in the direction of smaller, lighter, reels with low mass spools - in other words, they are all more like the Scorpion 1000 of a decade ago.  I have a Chronarch 50 and a Curado 50E that are similar size, have most of the same features, and are smoother reels with better gearing, albeit without the very handy VBS brakes.

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I have 3 of them. Two of them were bought in 2003 and one in 2006. Mine are still smooth and work very well. I still throw them all of the time. I just replaced the bearings in 2 of them 2 years ago with Shimano open face bearings. The other one has a pair of ZPI ceramic ABEC 7 bearings in it. I tear them down and completely clean and grease them twice a year. I oil the bearings every month (unless I use them a lot). I hope to get 11 more out of them. If you have any questions about this stuff Jaw, just ask.

 

Skeeter

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It was the same with the Scorpion 1000. Like Bob said they sold for about $150.00 but right before they were discontinued they were selling for $234.00. Nothing much has topped the braking system on that reel. That little reel was ahead of its time.

 

Skeeter

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I have a old Calcutta 250 and i have had it a long time. Still works like it was new. If you set it up right you can throw really small baits. When i had my tackle shop i sold a lot of them just showing customers how far i could throw a floating worm with it. Joking i would tell folks i could throw a feather with it. I use it with a All Star rod. I hope you find something you like.

 

Good luck, Brent

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Paired my curado 50e with a falcon low rider Topwater rod this weekend it has a good parobolic action like my crankbait rods using 8lb pline good casting results with some ultralight crankbaits and #5 shad raps usually don't throw them this time of year but caught a few fish in the river setup worked pretty good. I bought a tatula back around Christmas and a lighter action stcroix rod that I just put to the side (gift card from basspro) decided to try it out in the yard yesterday after I played with it for awhile and got it set up it casts light baits surprisingly well guess we will see how it handles the wind

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G-Loomis spinning rod and Diawa spinning reel for me.  I use light weight braid with a fluoro leader and about the only problem I ever have is wind knots in the line.....I like the braid since I fish in the sticks.  I've pulled some very nice largemouth out of junk using light lures on this rig.

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I use a Chronarch MG 50 for my 1/4 oz and 5/16 oz. jerkbaits, on a 7' Falcon Shoal Cranker rod that is no longer made.

Oiling the brake pins lightly (thank you Dan Isaacs, of ReelEx) has made the reel even better for throwing finesse baits.

I actually have four of these reels, all 10+ years old, and oiled all their pins.  It truly made a big difference in cast light stuff, and in casting in general.

Edited by mark poulson
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Lightly oiling the centrifugal brakes is something a lot of guys miss when servicing their reels.  I don't oil the brake pins but I do put a drop of bearing oil on a Qtip and run it around the brake drum.  It really helps the casting smoothness.  One thing I've seen on brake drums I get to work on from others is the drum is corroded and its surface is sometimes literally torn up.  Don't know how you expect the brakes to work smoothly with that!

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BTW, I've mentioned this before but in the realm of finesse baitcasters, one I really like (if you don't mind using round reels) is the old Ambassadeur Pro Max 1600 or 3600.  These reels are decades old now but you still see them occasionally on Ebay, selling in the $50-75 range.  They retailed for $169 back in the day, which was a lot of money for the time but they had bearings on the spool (2), pinion (1), disengaging level wind (2), and the handle paddles (2) plus a light spool and a 5.3:1 retrieve ratio.  About 8.5 oz.  Lifetime warranty.  I got 5 of them on which I did a 100 % disassembly, clean, and lube and upgraded any worn parts (still available from Abu).  Slick little reel for a bargain price!  I use two black brake blocks in the centrifugal system, turn the cast control knob all the way OFF and cast a crankbait long distances all day long in windy conditions with nary a backlash.  Frankly, I'm unsure why they cast so far without backlashing with so little cast control engaged.  I think it's just the configuration and spacing of the spool inside the frame.        

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BTW, I've mentioned this before but in the realm of finesse baitcasters, one I really like (if you don't mind using round reels) is the old Ambassadeur Pro Max 1600 or 3600.  These reels are decades old now but you still see them occasionally on Ebay, selling in the $50-75 range.  They retailed for $169 back in the day, which was a lot of money for the time but they had bearings on the spool (2), pinion (1), disengaging level wind (2), and the handle paddles (2) plus a light spool and a 5.3:1 retrieve ratio.  About 8.5 oz.  Lifetime warranty.  I got 5 of them on which I did a 100 % disassembly, clean, and lube and upgraded any worn parts (still available from Abu).  Slick little reel for a bargain price!  I use two black brake blocks in the centrifugal system, turn the cast control knob all the way OFF and cast a crankbait long distances all day long in windy conditions with nary a backlash.  Frankly, I'm unsure why they cast so far without backlashing with so little cast control engaged.  I think it's just the configuration and spacing of the spool inside the frame.        

 

Those sound like great reels!

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