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Jig Man

Curing Powder Paint

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Jig Man

I arranged my rack so that the jigs will hang about center of the upper and lower elements. An important item to get is a cheap thermometer (WalMart) so that you have some idea of the temp. The thermometer I use registers from 150 degrees to 600. The oven I used came from WalMart and was about $30. It can be set for bake, broil or toast and will heat to 450 degees. I don't have a problem with scorching, but if I get a little too much powder on the jigs, they will form a "nose" or drip on the lower end. Hope this helps.

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Jig Man

My set up is almost like cavu's ? the difference is the way my rack is set up. On the very back of the rack I cut the rack's end rail (that runs parallel to the back of the toaster) about a ? inch from the two side supporting rails. These cuts let me bend the rack in the middle to about a 60 degree angle (bent L shape). Now the rail that was at the back is angled up and I can hang my jigs on it. Took a Dremel and cut some grooves on the rail to minimize the jigs from moving around. I can do up to 14 jigs at a time ? lots more if I'm doing UL jigs. BTW ? picked up another toaster at a yard sale for $5 Saturday. Same model (newer) as my old one, so didn't have to make a new rack.

Surprised you didn't get more runs/drips then scorching with your old set up. Way to close to your heat source.

Cavu failed to mention that he has posted a very informative tutorial on powder painting that covers a lot of basics.

Also, monitoring your temperature is critical, especially if you get into using different manufacture's paint (Color-Rite, Columbia Coatings, etc.). They aren't as easy as Pro Tec but the effects you can get are worth the effort. I use a thermocouple and a TC reader.

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jig man-

Everyone is going to tell you to keep the jigs away from the direct heat. There are many ways to do it. I do not have a picture with me, but I went to Walmart and bought a small enough bread pan (deep sides). I then cut some hangers and welded them on the top. I have 4 rows and can hang 10 jigs on each row without them touching for a total of 40 jigs. If you would like to see the rack, just say the word and I will take a picture of it.

Tally

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Jigman

I use a paint stripping gun to heat the lead and then put the powder on with - believe it or not - a small woman's make-up brush. After heating the lead. I dip the brush in the PP and just tap it over the jig head. The paint falls off like ash from a cigarette and melts on the lead. I hold the jig over the paint container so that any that misses the jig is recylced.

I have made hundreds in this fashion and it works well. Personally I do not bother with the curing heat because I coat my baits with epoxy, so it is not necessary.

Hope that is some help.

musky_man

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Jig Man-

Here is the picture. It is nothing special but it works good for me. I have very few if any of the "nose" or drips but I think that really comes with the amount of powder applied and the time that you heat up the jig. Practice and waisted jigs is the only way you will learn. There is no scorching here either. I hang the jigs by the hook and let them hang inside the pan. This way they are not very close to the top element and the pan keeps them away from the bottom element. It is very important that you PRE-HEAT the oven. I hope this helps and if you have any other questions, fire away.

Tally

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Sorry about that, I should have taken a picture of it in the oven also. The toaster oven I have is a sunbeam, bake, broil and toast probably just like Cavu's. When the door is open it also pulls out the rack that sits over the bottom element. To answer your question: NO, sit it on the oven rack. I will take a picture when I get home and post it Wed.

Tally

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Something interesting I found out while talking to a rep for Pro Tech Powder Paint. All of the paint is not the same. By that I mean some colors weighs more, flow better and dip better. If I remember right he asid that he worst was the white pearl, and that has proven out form me. I seem to have a more difficult time getting a thin coat that covers with that color. Some of the other colors shake out of my 35mm film canisters with the holes in the top better than others, resulting in a sometimes bumpy second color on a jig. Some colors liquify better in the fluid bed. Moisture also plays a big part in how the powder paint coats. Any other observations?

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Cavu

Had the same discussion with Pro Tech, when I was trying to trouble shoot my fluid bath that I had purchased from them.

Haven't had much problem with pearl ? but I mix a fine holographic glitter (from Columbia Coatings) in it and that might be stabilizing the paint. If the saltwater swap happens you will see the results. Doing a "Sardinia" (red, white, and blue) and a Mexican Flag (red, white, and green) using the pearl for the white.

My problem child is a red (Pro Tec) that I mixed with an awesome glittered red (candy apple red?) I got from Color Rite (this is before I got the holographic glitter). You get anywhere close to 325F and it wants to run and sag.

Some things I try to remember;

Don't commit anything to memory (mixing ratios, curing temperatures, etc); write it down (preferably in a dedicated notebook).

Use a reliable temperature reference.

Experimenting is fun.

When you pooch the paint job on a jig, you have made a donation (I've made a lot of donations).

Use cheap hooks when you are starting out ? no fun when you goof on an Owner or Gamakatsu.

Jig Man

Regular artist paint brush work well. The further you are away from the jig the finer the powder but you sacrifice control and you have a bigger mess to clean up. You still have to "fluff" your paint when you are using the paintbrush.

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JIGMAKER

Sorry the pic isn't clear, the one I wanted to post didn't come out at all. Made two cuts, one on each side, on the back of the rack separating it from the support sides so I could bend the rack in the middle and roll it up. I'll try another pic of just the rack tomorrow.

Posted a pic in the Jig Gallery of the color combo I was telling you about.

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I've been using Spike-it brand powder paints, about had it with dipping in vinyl for the time being. It's messy, sticky, stringy, and I don't much care for the strange feelings of euphoria even with a mask after using it. As far as that goes, I'm going to acrylics eventually anyways. However, I am getting the hang of powder paints, I cure a few that come out bad, they tend to bulge at the bottom but I think that is because the coat is just a bit thick, but I am using the kitchen stove. Which is getting a lot of my lure making use, actually I use it more than my wife. Anyways, does anyone else use Spike-it or is everyone here a pro-tec fan? I'm quite happy with the results, from time to time, however, one lure that doesn't cure right is nasty to clean up. MEK doesn't even remove the stuff.

Mik

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Mik

It?s not a good idea to use your cooking stove for curing powder paint ? you should buy a cheap toaster oven. Think Columbia Coatings or Pro-Tec has a warning posted on their site about using kitchen stoves.

If you are referring to Quick Coat by Colorite you are using some tough stuff to work with. The color combinations are great and that might be the problem because, of the formulation, the paint tends to clump. That?s when you get bulges, runs, and drips. If you are using standard colors, you might want to reduce your cure temp and increase the time. To apply your paint, you might want to use the makeup/paint brush or the film canister technique ? it gives you a thinner coat.

Try mixing QC with PT clear coat ? don?t know why but it makes the QC easier to work with. Made up some jigs using QC/PT black diamond mix with an overcoat of CC illusions ? very nice effects.

Columbia Coatings has a lot of good info about powder paint formulations and they have a large selection of paint. Pro Tec/Netcraft is probably the easiest (most $) to use.

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