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gat0r

Removing Weedguards

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THe easist way is to heat the head up, and then simply pull them out. problem is, you will leave a hole where the weedguard was.

Are you planning to glue them back in after painting? If not, I would look into purchasing the heads without the guards.....if so, try covering the guards with something while painting.....I use teflon tubing.

Regards

JM

www.daimonlures.com

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Thanks Jigmaster. Yeah I remember your suggestion about teflon tubing. I've been to three hardware places around here and none of them even know what it is. Where would I find it? I just want like 3-5 feet of it.

I just want a good process to paint and bake/cure my heads to give them a rock hard finish. Fish a lot of rocks and jigs scrape up after one use. I want them to last, especially if I sell them to friends.

Anyone put on Epoxy coats over their powder coated jigs? Just curious how you guys get a good finish.

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I get my tubing at an industrial supply house. find a place near you that sells tubing and hoses, etc. for hydraulic and pneumatic applications. They would likely carry teflon tube.

As for epoxy.......I have a couple of lures that I use......Devcon 2-ton works well........be sure to mix it WELL. Cures in about 4-5 hours.

regards

JM

www.daimonlures.com

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Well my first foray into curing powder painted jigheads with teflon tubing was a disaster... I lost 15 of 20 jigs because the weeguards bent over and melted then reformed as one hard mass. I think it's because they were too close to the heat source. How do you secure the weedguard tubing so that no weedguard is exposed? Do you cap the ends?

The five that survived have a nice hard enamel now but it wasn't the ratio I was hoping for.

I think I baked them at 275 or 300. And in 5 minutes 15 weedguards were ruined.

Any other suggestions are always appreciated.

Thanks,

gat0r

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I had the same issue on my first couple of batches. I went out and purchased a cheap oven thermometer (couple of $ at the local supermarket) to see what the temp really was in the oven. I was surprised at the variance in temp from the dial setting to the actual temp in the oven. With mine set at 270 it would heat to over 300 initially and then fluctuate between 270 and 290. It took some time to play with the settings but I kept messing with it until the max temp would not exceed 275 once it went through the preheat cycle.

Hope this helps.

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One thing you want to make sure of is to pre-heat the oven to 25-30 deg. over the temp you are going to cure at. The reason why is because after you preheat the oven, then open the door, add 15 to 20 to 30 jig heads now you have let out alot of the heat. Its the preheat stage that ruins most fiberguards. The preheat stage is very high heat coming from the elements. If you preheat to 30 deg over your curing temp, when you close the oven door after loading your jigs on the rack the oven does not have to go into the long, high temp preheat mode.

Try this, it works for me.

Mr B

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YEs, definetly pre-heat the oven.

I also fuse the ends of my weedguards prior to pouring the head....it is easier to process through the casting, painting and curing.

When finished curing, simply take a pair of side cutters, cut weedguard to desired length.

SOme guys like the fused ends, as they will tie hair, etc on the heads, and it allows them to move the weedguard out of their way on the vise. Then they will cut off the fused ends when completed.

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