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  1. Today
  2. Barrel twist wire screw eye

    Anyone know how to make a Barrel twist screw eye for larger plugs? Could you share a procedure.
  3. Harder soft baits

    I had the same experience when I first started pouring. Someone here on TU suggested I hadn't gotten the plastisol to the 350 degree turn over point. I bought a digital thermometer from Harbor Freight, and, once I had gotten the plastisol to the right temp to begin with, no more sticky baits. Once it's gotten to 350 degrees, it can be reheated to 335+- and hand poured, or to 320+- to inject. The hotter the plastisol, the more it shrinks as it cools, so it takes some experimenting to find the right temps. for what you want to pour. Good luck.
  4. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    Dale, Do you dip, and, if you do, do you let the KBS drip back into the dipping jar?
  5. Painted DT16.jpg

    That puppy should really get some depth with the big bill. Color combo matches nicely.
  6. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    THAT'S IT! lol, Xylene......Suriously, the mason jars has the seals on the lids. If you keep the lip of the jar and seal clean there should be know problems. I've heard of wax paper being used for sealing, I don't use it. The trash in the bottom doesnt bother me either if it doesnt get churned up. Coming to the end of a jar and I hate to see any lost KBS......oh well, cost of using it I guess. Dale
  7. New Weed Guard Set-Up From Mark Pack

    Just thinking, I saw a patent application from the 60s that would seem to prevent every 3D eye we put on a hard bait. But, seems we don't have an issue so far. I have been doing that style of weed guard for 45 years on my bass flies, just tied the monofilament instead of using a slip piece of rubber. Patents applied for don't seem to protect, as indicated by CNC, and enforcing patents seems pretty hard as well. I am glad that for the most part I am a hobbyist. I suspect that there is a patent for how I breath air, and a lawyer willing to sue me over it. I know that someone has a patent application for just about everything else, including time travel (search it out). ROFLOL
  8. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Travis has a point. Engineering controls, like first not using dangerous products, is always the first option. 2nd is venting the material so you don't exceed the PEL, permissible exposure limit, for the toxin. 3rd of course is using the appropriate respirator, and using one that fits and gives you sufficient protection is best. The best supplied air is useless if you don't use it, the best half mask is useless if it does not fit or the filters are incorrect. The supplied air unit I used was bulky, impacted vision, but for the high radiation and chemical levels at the DOE site I was at, it was the only option. Half mask simply did not provide sufficient protection. Just don't think a hood is sufficient if the PEL is exceeded. A sniffer may be necessary if the toxin is bad enough.
  9. Harder soft baits

    Ditto. All plastisol products settle, some even hard pack, so you need to mix the material really well before you cook it to the turn over point. Now, some settle much slower, and some don't hard pack as much, but given enough time, all do that I have ever tried.
  10. Harder soft baits

    Give it a really good mix and try again. Sticky.... is typically a sign you didn't get it mixed well. Once you have that issue resolved then determine if the bait is too soft. They sell hardener you can add to adjust to your liking.
  11. Harder soft baits

    I recently got a soft bait mold and the first worm i made came out sticky and really soft, is there something I can add to the soft plastic worm making material to get it hard? I'm using Jann's netcraft
  12. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    Thanks Nathan. It's too cold and wet to open the big doors and dip right now, but I did buy some of their thinner (no more Xylene in CA). I plan to dip outside, so when the weather warms, I'm going to give it a go. I am going to use a pickle jar with a gasketed screw top for dipping, and will put a piece of plastic over the jar's mouth after I shoot the Bloxygen in before I put the top on. Can I let the bait drip back into the dipping jar, or will that cause problems?
  13. Yesterday
  14. test tube tubes

    Nice looking tubes. Looks like a clean cut on the tails.
  15. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Fist and foremost PPE should be your last line of protection. If one doesn't have a beard or health reasons a half mask with proper cartridge would be better in my opinion but still hood/vent system the way to go in regards to safety and cost. Proper engineering controls are the way to go. You would be better off building a hood system and vent outside.
  16. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    Mark, can you get Xylene in Ca.?..That’s what I thin with..I also use Bloxygen when closing the jar...But this stuff is ridiculously easy to use..dip and hang..2-3 coats a hour or so apart...I’ve only had one problem with the jar going off..but that was my fault..I got lazy and didn’t seal it up correctly.A good tough top coat with just a little flex to it..I’ve spent hundreds of dollars through the years trying top coats..This is as close to nirvana as I’ve found..Nathan
  17. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    You don’t want to turn lures when using KBS. Doing so will cause bubbling to occur.
  18. top water

    Did a quick search http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/search/?&q=woodchopper blades Seems like these are going to be pretty difficult to buy, may need to make them.
  19. top water

    Luhr Jensen made a topwater lure called wood chopper, looks like their nip-I-diddee except with different spinners. Since they are no longer in production I am trying to make my own. Does anyone know where I can find thes blades/spinners?
  20. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Not for lure making, but have used it for work some time ago. It is not what I would say was fun, but it worked for sure for highly contaminated areas.
  21. New Weed Guard Set-Up From Mark Pack

    I found the weed wacker line to be like a light to medium weed guard. Plus it's way cheaper than heavy mono, and you can find it at just about any hardware store or home center. The first stuff I bought had a light blue tint, and it worked, but I found some other that was clear, and that's what I use now.
  22. New Weed Guard Set-Up From Mark Pack

    I have 200lb black mono I use for slip rig duck decoys. It seems limber, but try cutting off a 1.5" piece and bending it. I suspect 100lb might be closer to the ticket for this. I've got some 50lb mono on my catfish rigs. I'll check that out if I have time in the shop today. I think I might have some culling tags with 100lb mono, but I don't remember for sure. I'll check those too. Its a nice looking setup for sure. I am sure you guys know that mono weed guards have been done before (w.w.hook and others), and some guys quite like them. I've also seen mono used as a "loop" type weedguard with both ends secure on the shank. Those are great for shiner fishing in pencil tulies. I have to admit I have not seen this exact use of mono before with it tied down to the hook, but mono weedguards are not new. I am sure atleast some of you have used them before. FYI: From everything I have read patent pending does not actually offer any protection. The thing to do is file a provisional patent if you want to bring your product to market quickly, and then file for a full patent. I am not a patent attorney, but I read up on things when I can.
  23. Any of you folks use a supplied air respirator? I'm thinking of purchasing a Breathecool II system and I'm looking for some feedback prior to pulling the trigger. Looks like a nice piece of equipment.
  24. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    Thanks. I just ordered some of their thinner.
  25. Krylon Fusion - Prime and Topcoat

    I used Krylon Fusion when I first started out painting plastic crankbaits. Seemed like the perfect application, bonds to plastic and I used white for my base coat. I had some trouble with the baits failing at the seams and I asked the outfit I bought the blanks from and they had not heard of this problem. I suspected that it bonds to plastic but it doesn't get along with the glue that bonds the two lure halves together. I started priming with Createx and never had any more baits open up at the seam. Keep that in mind if you are using it for a basecoat on plastic cranks. I didn't think to try the clear for a top coat and I like that idea.
  26. Painted DT16.jpg

    I have been on a few year hiatus so I'm pretty excited to pick the airbrush back up again. Here's a pair of DT16's.
  27. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    I use mason jars, wide mouth. I also use bloxygen, but as I'm using it I found contaminates in the bottom of the jar. I now use tack cloths before dipping. Nathan told me and all of us to use a solvent to thin it back down (can't remember the name), I havent had to use it yet. I am going to try Rustoleun layer as a shield, then wipe them down. I just don't know if they will act well together. I'm also thinking about brushing KBS again but it never really leveled out to my liking. May need to use a turner.
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