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  2. wire forming tools

    I use the Hagens as well for small and custom orders. However, if I have large quantities or heavy wire it is cheaper to buy them pre-made. Any quantities bigger than 20 I don not bend. Time is money, and it takes awhile to bend these, plus if you buy them then they are all consistently the same size. JMO
  3. Matte Powder Paint

    Possibly an automotive supplier like Eastman, but I have not looked
  4. Today
  5. Multiple Airbrushes

    I use two airbrushes with different size tips depending on what is being painted. I always only have one in paint at a time because of dry tip. I'm slow and cleaning tips is more aggravation than cleaning between colors, just my $.02.
  6. Football jigheads

    Footballs $14 Total of 21 jigheads in green pumpkin and black and blue. Free shipping 14 3/4oz 7 1/2oz
  7. RCBS Pro Melt Hot Pot Problem.

    Sounds like all the usual suspects have been covered. What I have found that works for me once all the above have been tried is to heat the hook. I load the cavity with the hook and base hole pin and wave a mini torch over the hook for a few second, close and pour. NOTE: The first couple of times you might get some sizzling if heating a cold mold develops moisture in the cavity And sometimes it spits..
  8. Homemade blade bait blowing out.

    The other thing you can do is bend the tip of the blade, like this. Bending the blade will stop the hunting but will allow you to crawl the bait very slow over rock and cover which is how I've caught me best fish on these vibrating jigs.
  9. wire forming tools

    + 1 on the Hagens. It's a great piece and worth every penny you'll pay for it.
  10. Multiple Airbrushes

    we use three brushes.. paasche. brushes are always in thinners,and have a tip blowerécleaner at hand..
  11. Multiple Airbrushes

    I have two airbrushes that I use at my paint station. It seems that most of the baits that I make have at least 4 colors. I am pondering the thought of getting a couple more airbrushes to help speed things along and eliminate color changes. It seems that I spend the majority of my time cleaning between colors than actually painting. Do you guys use multiple airbrushes or do you like myself have one or two and just make the necessary color changes as you paint along?
  12. RCBS Pro Melt Hot Pot Problem.

    Did you try adjusting the flow rate by turning the set screw to allow the plunger rod to lift higher? As for the lead temp, well that doesn't sound right but the only way to be sure it isn't getting hotter is by using an infrared thermostat or an immersion probe to get an accurate temp of the lead. The light on the switch will go off from time to time, once the lead hits temp the unit will shut off until the temp drops and it will turn back on again and the red light will be on. Being that the unit is 15 years old there is a good possibility the thermostat or heating element may not be 100%, I know you said it had low hours but remember that it is still 15 years old and unless you know exactly how it was used or the true amount of hours on the unit, you are just taking someone's word that it had low hours, someone who wanted to sell the unit so they may be motivated to make it sound like an even better deal. So try adjusting the flow rate and get a temp gun, $25 is what they cost but it will let you know if your lead is getting up in temp or just staying the same.
  13. can you make a solid color?

    Usually, if I want a " Solid color" I add colorant after cooking virgin plastisol. Works well with liquid colors. Liquid white added "Hot" will also solidify whatever color you have added however you'll need compensate to achieve your intended result.
  14. RCBS Pro Melt Hot Pot Problem.

    I would make sure your mold has drop out mold release. Also leave the mold on the top of the pot over the lead to heat it up. The main issue is likely the temp of the mold. I have some very difficult collars to fill and generally if the pots turned all the way up and the pots hot I dont have any issues.
  15. Microbaloons

    Awesome. Thank you for all the info, I really appreciate it. I'll look into the alumifoam also, that sounds like it might be more what I'm looking for. I'll mess around with the white for a while in the mean time, I'm sure I'll find something to use it for.
  16. Rotisserie motor

    And I got a geared motor used off ebay about 7 or 8 years ago for about $5 plus shipping and it still turns them out. As long as it turns a couple times a minute, it will work for epoxy. Mine is quite a bit faster.
  17. Homemade blade bait blowing out.

    Thanks for your advise. I shorten the line tie and this thing has great action. It hunts and darts out From time to time. It still acts like it wants to blow out at high speed but doesn't. I think this bait is going to be a killer striper and smallmouth killer.
  18. Rotisserie motor

    +1. I built mine around the same motor, using most of the components that came in the set. A little scrap plywood and some cup hooks and you're there.
  19. RCBS Pro Melt Hot Pot Problem.

    I have acquired a RCBS Pro Melt with not many hours of use on it and I'm getting numerous short pours on the Do-It Bullet Bass Jig. I have heard some of the newer RCBS Pots are not built as well as the older models but this particular RCBS Pot is about fifteen years old. I'm using a lead mix that is soft enough that short pours should not be occurring but I'm getting a lot of short pours on the collar section of the jig. I am not pouring multiple loaded cavities per individual mold shot but rather I am pouring one cavity with one hook and base pin per individual mold shot. The only time I'm not getting a short pour is when I pour into the blank cavity next to the hook and base pin loaded cavity. I am pouring the blank cavity next to the loaded cavity once every other shot in order to heat the loaded cavity to prevent a short pour. I am also keeping the pot at least 3/4 of the way full and placing the tip of the discharge barrel down into the gate of the mold and "injecting" the lead into the mold cavity to keep the air temp from cooling the lead before it enters the mold cavity. I'm turning the thermostat all the way up but yet I'm noticing the surface of the lead isn't turning colors in the pot. With the other pots (a RCBS Pro Melt and a Lee 10 pound pot) when the thermostats are turned all the way up the lead always changes colors. With this RCBS Pot being turned all the way up there is no dis-coloration of the surface of the lead. Also I'm noticing that the mold isn't heating up to as high of a temperature as it would do with the other pots. I should not be having to turn this pot up to the highest setting to do pours. I also noticed that the red light inside of the on/off rocker type switch will not always be lit up when the switch is turned to the "on " position. I am plugging this pot directly into the wall outlet and not using a extension cord therefore its not a case of losing power loss due to cord length. NOTE FOR THE INEXPERIENCED: IT IS NOT SAFE TO USE AN EXTENSION CORD WITH A LEAD POT. I'm wondering if it might be a problem with not enough power being supplied to the electrical outlet. Either that or it is an issue with a faulty thermostat. I'm not too familiar with electricity so I don't know how to check the amount of current going to the electrical outlet. Any advice to offer in solving this problem???
  20. Microbaloons

    I use Alumifoam, a little different to work with, but it has the density of cedar wood. If I want to stick with Alumilite White and Microballons, I pour it, then I plug the mold pour port, then I hand rotate the mold (rotomolding). If I pour 10% or so less material and do this then I end up with a hollow core. On lures I can do this with, it gives me an Awesome floating lure. A third method I use is to use the rotomolding method with about 20% of the required material, then fill the empty void with Alumilite 610 foam. This gives me a lure just heavier then balsa. Now, back to the Alumilite resin and Microballons. Yes, best to pour form the top center of the lure, but if you do pour from head or tail, it will still work, it just requires slightly different ballast. Never pour form the belly or side. Hope this helps some.
  21. wire forming tools

    I have been using one from Hagens and really like it. I've used a couple of cheaper ones over the years and the Hagens is easier to use, more durable, and makes better ties.
  22. Umbrella Rig

    DIY Umbrella rig, grubs tail soft plastic + stainless steel rig
  23. Custom Buzzbait

    My new fishing lure, custom buzzbait make with casting resin
  24. Yesterday
  25. WTB BTS 702 Craw Molds

    Still looking for some of these molds if anyone has one they wanna part with.
  26. P3 Shad

    Those look solid Bob! Prefect mesh of a fat profile and slim tail for action Scale pattern is sharp too!
  27. Plastic Mfr / Distributors

    Thanks for the repost, Rick. This is some really useful information!!
  28. wire forming tools

    this is what I use
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