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  2. Thank you Ben. That's the info I was looking for. Does the syringe that you are using have the black silicone seal?
  3. I don't use screw eyes, but I use 30 minute epoxy applied with a syringe and a large bore needle to install twisted wire ties and hangers. This takes all the guess work out of this process as far as whether or not the joint has a 100% bond between the tie and the wood. It's probably overkill, but this is just one less thing for me to worry about. As far as cleanup is concerned it's not that complicated. I keep 2 medium sized pill bottles on my workbench filled with DA. One is "dirty" alcohol and one is "clean". By doing a series of fill and purge with each bottle I'm still using the same syringe and needle I've been using for years. I wouldn't recommend using 5 minute epoxy. It can be done, but you don't have much time to clean the syringe by the time you install and align your hardware Ben.
  4. Today
  5. Most often an epoxy with a longer cure time is also a stronger adhesive as well
  6. Thanks cadman! Sounds like an intense system, I never considered cataloging. I like the idea of boxes with like items, I considered long peghooks with doubles and like molds too
  7. A long work time is one reason I like Rod Bond paste epoxy; its stays in gel form for at least an hour, plenty of time to install hardware and lips on a batch of baits.
  8. we start a pilot hole. put epoxy on screw eyes and install. always set screw eye with the opening forward. if the screw eye ever opens a bit your hook/fish stays pinned.
  9. I keep some of mine in a cabinet on shelves. Shelves are numbered by column and row. I then can stack about 4 molds per column. Next I have a sheet on one of the shelves that has a list of every mold I have. On this sheet, each mold has the mold model number and name along with a column number and a shelf number. If you are very meticulous on where you take them from and where you put them back, the sheet works fine. The mold will always be found where you put it back last time. I also keep all my mold model numbers on a spread sheet. The ones I use regularly, I also keep on a shelf in a box. The box has the names of the mold I have in there. Also in these boxes, I keep all my football molds together in one box, all my round molds in another and all my spinnerbait molds yet in another. This all works for me. I'll take a pic later tonight.
  10. I have invaded the small apartment we have above the garage for my painting and plastics. Not much in the way of ventilation in the winter..., open windows in the summer. My wife has allowed me this space. We have an old (nice though) entertainment center that is too small to house current size TVs, making it all but worthless. I have all of my paints, molds, and supplies not in use in this entertainment center. Lots of cardboard box "storage containers". An old cd player finishes out the setup. All my lead work is done in the garage below.
  11. Hey everyone! I've started the long process of sorting all of my various tacklemaking supplies. I've got a TON of lead molds, mostly do-it style, and I've been stumped on the best way to store them all so they're accessible and easy to identify. I've got jigs, sinkers, lures and every shape and size. Somewhere around 200 of em. I've considered square cubbies like a wine rack or apothecary cabinet, pegboard, Rubbermaid totes, stacking on shelves... Etc. and none of them seem *just right*. Google, Pinterest searches don't give much inspiration either. What does everyone do to sort and display their molds???
  12. Thanks Hillbilly. Good info.
  13. I bought the Lurecraft years ago and didnt like it. IIRC I used it and added other color(s) to tweak it. Sorry but I forgot what was wrong with it and what i added to make it better.
  14. No your not Mark. I've had methiolate & iodine used on me a bunch growing up along with coal oil on cuts.
  15. I called them & asked specifically about the 10 ouncer & Sarah walked into the shop & said they only had two. Luckily i got one of them.She did say they weren't listed on the website & sent me a link to it.
  16. ddl

    Help with KBS

    you are lucky i didn't get the same good customer service with envirotex .they literally told me to using even if it was yellow as urine.they said inside the box that you got one years to use it .but there is not date of fabrication anywhere. never again thee is nothing more frustrating to got a junk customer service .art resin cost more but its a lot better ,they got nothing to hide.you see right trough the bottle . good luck . give an update if you got a chance ,i would like to try that for plastic lure with light action that would be ruined whit thick erpoxy
  17. Yesterday
  18. I have a 12 ft bench in my shop/bait shack. From left to right 4 ft of it is a small wire shelf that hold all my color , flake and additives . 2 ft off free board space for general purpose. The last 6 feet is where all the majic happens. 30 inch hood vent with 2 mics with storage below for baits and curing. More than enough room to do what I want.
  19. For plastics, I use glass beads in a plastic or metal tube. If you don't want to make a rattle, they do sell them on DIY online tackle shops.
  20. does any one know about this I am really serious!
  21. Wow......I'd sure say so!!
  22. Hey everyone. Just starting out making my own baits. And was wondering if you’d can post pictures of your workshop, man cave, bait making station, work bench or whatever you want to call it. Lol. Looking for ideas on how to set up and organize my work area in the garage. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I already did some searches and a lot or the post are good but outdated or don’t have pics. Thank you everyone! Can’t wait to see what ideas and tips u guys have!!!!
  23. Hillbilly voodoo


    Prototype with rough paint job ready for test troll.
  24. Hi Guys, would you call the attached color as merthiolate? FYI Baitmold calls it Crystal Magenta. Bye. Cami
  25. Drill pilot hole, feed in eye screw dry, cover threads with a liberal coating of cheap 4hr super strong 2 part epoxy from the hardware store and done. Have not had one fail and I use my lures on pike, salmon, and Lakers mostly (wish I had musky close). I do this for both cedar and resin poured baits. I also don’t recommend super glue on large fish.
  26. Very good info. Thanks AZ. I will likely stay with my original method. I use the D2T 30 min as well. Good stuff.
  27. I make mostly resin baits but use the same process with wood. I use D2T 30 min and use a toothpick to get the epoxy down into the hole as well as coat the threads of the screw. I also made a eye screw bit for my drill driver so I can zip them in pretty quick and then a quick alignment, dab up the excess epoxy and on to the next one. I have used super glue before and it works, but have had some failures. It didn't work well for the hinge screws on some swimbaits I made, they kept loosening up and the bait wouldn't swim straight. Don't seem to have that issue as much with epoxy. For larger, heavier baits I want D2T. I can install 10-15 screws before a small batch of epoxy becomes unworkable. I used the 3 pc Harbor Freight nut driver tip kit to make the tools, one for .072 and one for .092.
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