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  2. Dave, I do not know how to correctly draw it. What I have been trying to do is use a wooden ruler and measuring the wood, for example, 1 inch popler. Once it is cut out, measure the half inch mark and make a mark with a pencil on both ends, and both sides of the lure and connect them with a ruler. I am having trouble, though, because the ruler is flat and the lure is curved.
  3. Mike, not sure if this is what you are looking for. It’s off their website and it only lists the tip size and butt diameter. It gives the rod rating in light, medium, heavy, fast etc. http://roguerods.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/roguerodscatalog.pdf Also their number is listed and with a quick call I bet they could provide the info you are looking for.
  4. Go to the pet section at Walmart. Get a 50 gal aquarium pump, hose and an adapter to control the air flow.
  5. What temp are you curing at? Tin melts at 450,I cure at 350 for 20 min.
  6. I'm guilty of eyeballing the center line. I think I may fail the test
  7. Symmetry is everything. Once you have your basic profile cut out of the slab of wood, next comes the most important operation of the whole build - the centre line. The centre line gives you the location point for all holes, and gives you a datum to measure off the taper lines. How are you drawing the centre line? This is not a test. You will not be criticized for the wrong answer. Maybe you have not even drawn a centre line. Tell us the truth now, and we can bring your design skills and talents up to the latest thinking and methods. Dave
  8. Perfect. That's really helpful. Thank you! Sounds like I need to use less paint, and for jigs I've already painted, use a paper clip. Thanks for your help!
  9. Doing this is a bit of an art project. Some people can only do it with a micrometer. Others can carve by eye and get it pretty good. Look down the sides and from the top and you can usually see any slight variations that need to be taken down. And, if you should mess it up. Well, it's a small chunk of wood and you can start again. After you get used to it and develop a process it only takes 20-30 minutes to go from wood to shaped bait. Since you've asked the question it seems that you are ruminating about this. Just do it and see what happens. I'll bet you'll be surprised at how good it can come out.
  10. Ideally it should be. It isn't too difficult to do if you take the proper steps. A top down profile drawn on card stock, recipe card, etc.. can be used as a template and trace the design on each crank. I then typically go the band saw and cut to save time. For some baits this isn't needed and sharp knife makes short work of it and easy enough to keep even if you draw a center line on the bait.
  11. Every rib is just another opportunity to trap air . Plastic has to be hot to fill all of those little ribs but the hotter the plastic the more it shrinks as it cools so it's kind of a catch 22 . If the air is not displaced as the mold is filling with plastic it will have no way to get out once the mold is full resulting in trapped air pockets (bubbles in the bait ). If possible you could try altering the mold plunger arrangement to pour with the cavities oriented vertically so the (thinner) air is forced upward and out towards the tail vent by the ( denser ) plastic and pushed out ahead of the plastic as the mold fills . The vent at the tip of the tail should also be reoriented pointing strait up from the tip with a loop to change direction . Any air entrapment after that could be dealt with adding more venting where needed . This stuff is all just trial and error but persistence will usually pay off.
  12. does the tapering have to be even on both sides?
  13. I see what you mean. I guess the actual placement of the lines depends on the bait. When I began making mine I've learned about how blunter nosed or wider/narrower bait behave in the water. That along with weighting, the bill, etc determine how the thing moves in the water. I guess you just make some and pay attention and see what happens. General rule for me is blunter in the front, narrower on the tail and enough weight in it so that it stays upright. And center the weight to start. Moving it back or forward affects the center of 'wobble'. Hard to define everything so stay with general rules, see what happens, then modify from there with the next ones. There are some sort of standard methods, but half the fun is making one and working with that. That being said, you'd be surprised how just freehanding it and looking down the axis by eye while cutting/sanding to get symmetry can be done quite easily. Anyway, good luck with it. I don't overthink it. Just do one and go from there.
  14. When curing my jigs in the oven, I used bent out paperclips. One end goes into the hook eye and the other end hangs on the oven rack. This way, if I do get a drip, it runs toward the hook rather than toward the head. I put an old cookie sheet under the jigs so that no paint will drip inside the wife's oven!
  15. What about tin. The metal melts out while the powder paint sets up
  16. watch him all the time, but be never explains how to do it.
  17. Yesterday
  18. I draw two lines with a small square across the top of the lure. Each one shows where the forward and rear taper start. Then I mark the ends by eye but you can measure, then use a plastic stencil to make the lines to the rear, and then to the back. Look for videos on a youtube site called 'marling baits' he does this in almost all his builds. You can learn lots of other stuff too.
  19. Another helpful tip is to use the jig clamps from TJ's tackle. This way any excess paint runs toward the hook shank where it is more easily removed.
  20. You can use any head you want as long as the hook eye will allow the split ring to move freely. I personally like the Trokar Pro Swim jig as well. You can get nice heavy sharp hooks with big hook eyes. However, find what works for you.
  21. Yep too much paint. try a fluid bed as mentioned above, or when your jig is hot quickly swish it thru the powder paint. Better to have less paint than too much. You can always reheat it and swish thru again. Also make sure you fluff the powder paint frequently if you are swishing from a jar. This will put on a lighter coat. Good Luck.
  22. Are you using a fluid bed? If not, it will alleviate those cone heads.
  23. bryanmc, Jig Man, and McLuvin175, thank you all for your replies. they are much appreciated. bryan, I was wondering about that. I wasn't aware of the siphoning affect of the cooling plastic drawing in hot plastic from the gate and runner. Think maybe that long gate is cooling too much and effectively shutting off the chance for the cooling bait to draw in more plastic from the runner? May even be closing any chance of air leaving the body of the bait. I do plan on remaking the mold, so I will shorten the gates when I do that. Just trying to make it work right now because I have a tournament Saturday and I pretty much made this bait to fish this lake. Anyhow .... Jig Man, I have tried your suggestion. Still get the same results. I've even tried keeping pressure on for 30 seconds, and not just slight pressure. McLuvin, I am thinking that I need to try adding a vent as well. As I said in my original post ... these are not plastic shrinkage dents, they are collapsed air bubbles. I do find it odd that on to of the baits it's always near the nose, and with the one bait, it's always in the mid portion of the body. I'm thinking that it being a ring worm type bait that it is catching even more air. I'm going to add a vent at the nose and see if that helps. I'd like to get it figured out before I go making a new mold. Once again, thank you guys VERY much for your replies. Got some ideas to work with now, and that's what I needed. Thanks again!!!
  24. no, I know how to do that. It is tapering the ends I need help with. Once that part is glued and the wood is cut
  25. You are getting too much paint on the jigs if you are getting dripping or nipples. Allen
  26. Hey guys- I'm pretty new to this. I've been curing my jigs after I powder paint them by hanging them on my oven racks, but I've noticed that many times they drip down a little bit, and I'm left with an oddly shaped jig. Last time I tried putting them on parchment paper on a cookie sheet, and that worked a little better, but it still wasn't perfect. What is the best way to place the jigs in the oven to cure them? Thanks for humoring a newbie question
  27. I print them, cut them out and glue them on with a glue stick. This allows me to also show locations, angles, and sizing for lip slot, line tie, and hook hangers.
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