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  1. Today
  2. Nice work there ! You have actually made a 3 part mold including the rod for the tube part . 20 years or so a go I made up a similar 3 part mold also using Durhams for a Mad Man craw for the master . I was having trouble getting the mold cavity to completely fill at the outer extremities such as the tips of the claws . I began using a shop vac to create vacuum and experimented with hand scribed vent lines in the mold halves to draw plastic where it was needed by using different vacuum levels . I didn't have to pressurize the plastic simply pour it into the sprue and let the vacuum do the rest After I got it dialed in it worked pretty good .
  3. Yesterday
  4. Thanks Mark. Much appreciated !!! I was down shooting some more baits and think I may have solved the little bit of flash problem I have. In reading past posts I had read that to avoid the dimpling that can happen with injected baits, that you need to hold pressure on the injector for a period of time before you remove it from the mold. On my first shoots I wanted to make sure I got a good cavity fill so I used a lot of pressure and held it like that for a bit. I thought the amount of pressure I was bringing the mold to was probably causing the flash, so I decreased the pressure a bit. 3 of the 7 baits I shot had slight dimples in the side of the craws head. But I had almost zero flash. I'm thinking maybe the same amount of pressure but holding it a little longer will eliminate the occasional dimple. The dimples aren't bad, but they're there. And thanks again for the compliment. Truly appreciated
  5. I didn't know that was called Wisconsin style. Live and learn. I actually do something like that to add accent colors to my already tied jigs, chatterbaits, or spinnerbaits, when I want a bluegill (blue/orange) or crawdad (red) effect. I add just a bit of a half tab to the belly, and it works great.
  6. No, because the thread would spread out enough when I tied it to keep the flare from being as pronounced. That was my first thought when I began playing with the rubber skirt collars.
  7. I'm just happy to have something to contribute. Lord knows I've taken so much from you and the other makers here. I tried, and failed, to make a bulge with thread, like you do. You make it look so damn easy! I like that now I can control where the bulge goes, and then lock it in place with the super glue. I have to laugh when I think of how often Andy kicked my butt throwing his own jigs, while I was throwing mine right next to him. But I kept trying, retying with different materials, and pushing the trailer farther up the hook to get more flare. He had given me a dozen of his jigs over the years, but it never occured to me to look under the skirts. Doh!!! Now his and mine look exactly the same in the test bucket. That's a relief, because I was getting desperate enough to tie one of his on and risk losing it.
  8. RE: Pyrex Cups , Plastisol, Pouring Lead Well some more advice before you get started. Saftey First! 1. Never use a cracked, chipped or altered pyrex cup to heat up your plastisol with. This is not safe if there is any doubt throw it out! Buy a brand new one. 2. Pyrex cups do break From my experience I was using one which was fairly new and one day it just cracked in half, out of the blue after I had heated my plastic, right after reaching into the microwave. I dont know what happened maybe it was defective. 3. Research, the basic, find out, read alot of information on how to safely pour plastic baits, or lead I see alot of videos of inexperienced people on YouTube disregarding just simple saftey precautions. Not using eye protection, no gloves , no long sleves, no pants including pouring lead inside there home while wearing shorts or flip flops or no shoes WTF! pouring while using No respirator or proper ventilation. Yes making your own soft baits and lead weights or lures can be fun and rewarding but it can also be dangerous and toxic if saftey precautions are not followed. Gather all your items before you get started & Be safe dont disregard this important point.
  9. Finally got around to sealing the new injection molds I made and shot the first baits from them. The design is much better, and aside from a little of that pesky flash, I think baits turned out pretty well. They're actually 3 1/4" and 4" respectively.
  10. Definitely NOT the Lure Craft of old, which makes me think this virus crap is effecting them as well??
  11. I had an idea a while back but never put it to the test. Bad habit of being a bit of a scatter brain too many untested theories What I wanted to test was suspending a foam core in the mold and then pouring resin around it. I actually wanted to try this with the idea of messing around with adding floatation to different sections of the bait as well to see how I could impact the action. But then my brain went elsewhere and I did not test the idea It might work for increasing buoyancy if you put a foam core on a through wire and poured it into your bait the same way you would with a normal wire harness. The other idea I was going to try was suspending the foam with light mono or thread.then pour the bait One day I will try this and a million other ideas
  12. I tie my jigs "Wisconsin style". I cut a tab in the middle and I end up 2 pieces with tab ends. I wrap the tab ends against the head of the bait with the strands facing forward. The base is facing backwards towards the hook. (see pic below) I usually use 1 tab but you might prefer two. I tie with only strands facing forward 99% of the time. If desired: (I seldom do this) I repeat the process except I tie the tabs over the forward facing but with the strands pointing backwards. This produces a sparse skirt that really flares! If you want a heavier skirt you can on more strands if desired. The lighter skirt gives a good view of the swimbait I use as a trailer. Also, by cutting the tab in half it is really easy to get a good uniform distribution by tying the base on the top and bottom of the jig. Note: If your material has a really large base (the melted part on each end) you may want to trim it to size. I normally trim it to the same size as the distance between the head and the skirt bump. http://www.finsntales.com/all/sink-or-swim-the-wisconsin-swim-jig/#.XtJnd4jYqyI Here is a good pic of front only from : http://www.northwoodsbass.com/swim-jigs-northwoods-style/ Note: If you are tying multiple colors (1/4 band) tie the TOP color on first!
  13. Would it do the same if you did the collar placement after the jig was finished or does it have to be done first?
  14. Mark, that will save time and thread!!!! On small jigs with no collars or on collars without a ring I will make a chenille ball in order for the skirt or hair to flare. I prefer to tie because I can control the amount of flare I get. On my Eakins style jigs I don't want too much flare but on an arky style jig like in the picture, flare is what you want, well at least I do. Thanks for that tip!!!
  15. Does anyone have a blending block that they are willing to part with?
  16. Might want to try preheating your dual injector, also. Not sure if this has been mentioned or of your process. Blending block too.
  17. Ya, best way. I don't usually pour through the tail. I make my mold to use a rubber stopper to hold the material and then rotomold it. Lots of good ideas above, just some " TEST...TEST...TEST."
  18. I lubricate mine every 5 or 6 shots with worm oil or as soon as i feel it tightening up & have no prpblem with my basstackle 6 ounce single or dual injector either one. They'll get tight as can be real quick if not lubricated regularly.
  19. Last week
  20. I hope this is clear. The Arkie jig is from a Do-It mold.
  21. I shoot some PAM cooking spray into my injector after each shot, as I'm cleaning out the old plastic.
  22. Just an update I received my molds today! They were the correct molds, just a little frustrated it took almost 2 months. I was never given any tracking information, never got a reply to my two emails, and called 10+ times over a 3 day stretch and not a single one was answered...
  23. Great advice again. Thanks so much. Back to the shop this weekend, hope churn out another set similar to these.
  24. Would you mind telling me what brand you bought/where?
  25. Look up FM Bait Co. in Leitchfield, KY. They produce for Prowler, Sneed, & a bunch of others.
  26. Remember that the hotter the plastic, the better the flow (but don't get it too hot!). 350 is my normal target I use 320 when injecting large body baits like creature baits to help prevent denting. Try a few drops of worm oil in your injector and push it up and down to lubricate before you start. I clean (wipe out) and lubricate my injectors on a regular basis. Also check and make sure the plunger surface is tightly screwed onto the rod or you might be getting some tilt and binding. If the injectors are new, the o-rings are probably pretty tight.
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