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  1. Today
  2. really need some help

    You can go to and get on his forum. The forum has a lure making section on it that he visit very often. That is the best way. I don't have his number, he has mine, so I email him and he calls me. Because I am a no-body, at least in my eyes, and he is some-body, I try to not over use this privilege. If it can be done, he can help. As for the bubbles, I found that when I used the Flex 30 that if I mixed it slow, and poured it from a foot or more high (creating a thin stream that pops the bubbles) that I had almost no bubbles. Another option is to vacuum the Flex 30. I set myself up a degassing vacuum this last year and it has been a great benefit. I find myself using it even when I don't need to. The attached is a short video, bad but short, of some HS2 I was degassing. I hope I got of the share features set right. PS, he rotated it by hand I believe. I was looking into something like making the following: I would probably put a motor on it if the cure rate of the material I was using took a lot of time. On the flex 30, with a 5 min. open time, I would stick with the hand method.
  3. really need some help

    I would love to see a video of Larry making a bait that way. Any chance you have a link?
  4. Printed Bags

    Make sure you specify your inside dimensions, top pack has a 1/4” seam around and almost 1” above zip lock. There can be some confusion between the cultures lol and they don’t take stuff back. They are the cheapest and I was very happy with the bags.
  5. really need some help

    Yes i used the flex 30 but had horrible air bubbles I was told by a rep at alumilite that it was a vtnl material Im using a rotational molding method id like to know how larry did that..i aldo would love to speak to him. He is the reason i even got into this obsession.
  6. really need some help

    Sorry to hear that. We will try to help, but you are asking a tough one here. First, take your mouse and hover over Activity at the top right of this screen. Then go down to search on the pop up menu. Enter possible words to match and see what you get. But, in case you don't have luck, I may be able to help. I have not made a slick surface collapsible frog/lure before. But, if you are talking about something like the Scum Frog (see attached) then I do know someone who has. Option 1: Larry Dahlberg made one out of an Alumilite Flex product, something like the following: They also make it in a 40, 60, 70 and 80. This is a Urethane rubber material. The way Larry made it was to make a master out of Sculpy clay, then made a mold from Silicone RTV (Alumilite HS2 would be a great option). The mold had a plug in it so he could rotomold it. He inserted the weighted hook into the mold then mixed the Flex slowly to reduce bubbles, then poured it into the mold. You do not want to fill the mold, only enough to balance the needs for buoyancy and strength. Larry hand rotomolded the bait for the cure period, leaving a rubber skin all around the bait, with the hook already in place. I believe that this worked very well. Option 2: What I have done is a little different. I used a damaged bait I had that I already liked for the master. I made the mold with HS2, but next time I will use Quick Set or something a little firmer. I inserted the weighted hook and then mixed up the following: This is a super soft and highly flexible material, and it floats like a cork. In the case of my master, I cut it with a hook slot to help when with collapsing. I know Larry Dahlberg well enough to know that his methods work, so option 1 can be adapted to your needs. My experience with option 2 was very pleasing for me. Sooooo, I think the two options can meet your needs. You might need to adapt them a bit for your experience levels, and especially for your demands, but that is the fun of it. HAVE FUN!
  7. Solvent

    That is correct, Frank. Some plasitol residue solidifies in the plumbing and I want to keep it cleaned & lubed between uses.
  8. tuning balsa crank bait

    Thanks for your help guys! I’m learning as I go. I did have a couple that ran great so now I get to learn how to paint them.
  9. Yesterday
  10. BTS 706 CRAW mold

    Wanted bobs tackle shack 706 craw molds if you have any you want to sell message me please
  11. BTS 706 craw molds

    Looking for BTS bobs tackle shack 706 craw molds message me if you have some you want to sell.
  12. Spinnerbaits in Saltwater

    Thanks for the info! I will have to check it out. However, Zman chatterbaits are generally 1/2 oz or smaller. I was thinking of something bigger.
  13. Boss powder paints

    That's great information Smalljaw...i really appreciate everyone taking the time to respond!! Obviously there is a lot more than i expected when i decided to start making my own tackle! It's a blast though and i see myself doing this for some time.. Jason
  14. Videos for R Bends/Hagens Tool Loops Only?

    You can use a Hagen's tool for "R" bends but you need to adjust the stops and figure out the angles on your own. I use the little blue bend to make "R" bends because that is what that that bender does. The only reason I don't use my Hagen's to do "R" bends is because I use it for other things and it would mean I have to change to set up around and then tweak it to get back to where I had it set. Having the little blue bender makes it easy to just crank out spinnerbait forms fast and easy.
  15. Hunting for a specific mold

    Not to be smart but do you realize how many different jigs are out there that aren't round, football or arky?? A picture is about the oly wany anyone can help you without going through 3/4 of the Do-it catalog. EDIT: The pictures came up after I posted, sorry. Send those pics to CNC Molds-N-Stuff, that isn't any production mold I ever saw, in fact I never saw that head. It is basically a rectangle with a rounded bottom utilizing a flat eye hook.
  16. Boss powder paints

    I use a propane torch to heat the jig and then cure in an oven. If you CAREFULLY read the statement on the website, it states not to use a torch or heat gun to CURE paint. Using a heat gun or torch to heat your jig, or any other method has little to do with how well your paint holds up, it is the curing cycle. I think you either aren't getting the oven to proper temperature or your cure cycle is too short. Remember, 15 minutes at 350 degrees isn't putting your jigs in the oven and setting it to 350 and then turning it on for 15 minutes, it is the jig itself at 350 degrees for 15 minutes. Boss recommends 400 degrees for 10 minutes for a lot of their paint, and other paints have different times and temps for different colors and to be honest, I'd pull my teeth out trying to figure out and remember what each color needs to be cured at. For me, 350 for a 15 minute cycle, and in my over that is 21 minutes due to heat up times, works for everything, I have tried every new paint I get with the throw onto the concrete floor test, not simply drop but I throw a painted head against the floor after the cure cycle is done to see if there is any chips, still haven't had any issues.
  17. Boss powder paints

    I preheat in a frying pan on a hot plate.
  18. Avid bass tackle

    I ordered several different types of blanks (glide baits, rats, swim baits, cranks) from Avid, around 2 months ago. I received them quickly. I only ordered items that were in stock. The blanks were very good quality. Avid is one of the few places I have been able to find larger blanks.
  19. really need some help

    so I took a break from lure crafting bc of this issue and I'm gonna try one more time what and how do I get the material that is used for the collapsible frogs?? I'm assuming some type of vynl
  20. Hunting for a specific mold

    Very similar to do its trokar jig
  21. Hunting for a specific mold

  22. Ice rod winding check

    try the hardware store for washers for your faucets, some are really small
  23. Boss powder paints

    Smalljaw do you heat your jigs initially with the toaster oven or do you use a heat gun? The website says not to use a heat gun, thats where i thought i made the mistake. Possible that the jigs did not get hot enough all throughout the jig for the paint to adhere properly.
  24. Hunting for a specific mold

    If you have any heads a pic would be nice.
  25. I’m building a custom jigging rod with a SKSS real seat and my blank butt is 5mm the smallest winding check I can find is 7mm ID what’s the best way to build up the blank to fit, any help will be appreciated... thank you
  26. Printed Bags Contact: Vivian Fong very helpfull and quick reply to mails.
  27. Boss powder paints

    If you are baking your jigs in a toaster oven you will need an oven thermometer to check the temp. My current toaster oven is set at 325 and the temp is actually 354, my old one I had set at 385 to get 350. I do my jigs at 350 for 15 minutes and I've used BOSS jig armor powder and had no issues, but here is the thing, when I say 15 minutes at 350, the temp of the oven hits 350 before that time begins. I don't just set my oven and put the jigs in for 15 minutes, my oven takes a hair under 4 minutes to reach 350 degrees, so I add 4 minutes to my cure time so I actually put my jigs in and set the timer to 21 minutes, 4 minutes for the oven to reach temp, 2 minutes for the jigs to start getting warm and then 15 minutes of a cure cycle. I also do as Mark does, and that is after the cycle my jigs sit in the oven with the door cracked to cool down for 20 minutes before I remove them, I don't know if that helps but I know that I can throw my jig against the concrete floor in my shop and the paint won't chip.
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