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  1. Today
  2. Riverman "Floats" New Ideas with Retro Perspective

    Wow, such an informative post. With its help, i can get a high quality essay writing assistance because the research you did is amazing! thanks for being so helpful!
  3. Aluminum injection mold laminates?

    Perhaps you could make a silicon “belly mold” for the bait, pour the belly and then pop it into the mold and inject the top.... lot of mucking around.
  4. Do it molds x2 colorant

    Agree. lureworks/ispikeit hands down best value and one of the best ranges. lurecraft and mf have a strong range too, colours don’t seem as strong though particularly mf.
  5. Pre-drilled beads

    Like this? PS, welcome to TU
  6. I use the Kingsley foils off of eBay. I set my heat gun to ~350*-400*f and as soon as I feel I have hit the 325*f my foil binder needs to work I apply the foil and put it in my carpet lined vise. After it cools just a bit I open the vise and peel off the plastic. I have not seen any evidence of heat causing issues with my foil.
  7. Do it molds x2 colorant

    Lureworks is dependable on there color as well... Consistent....
  8. Do it molds x2 colorant

    Have to agree with this, they are strong but not so strong you can mix it well before using. Some x2 colors are way to thick and don’t mix well.
  9. My DIY centrifugal casting machine

    Well I have it built. It is spinning at 1200 rpms, so way too fast. The plan is now to put in a dimmer switch to adjust the speed. There is a slight wobble thanks to a slightly bent shaft. But for having no real skills when it comes to building stuff like this I am happy. The machine
  10. Do it molds x2 colorant

    When they are out of a color it doesn't show up on their web site.
  11. Select Pine

    envirotex will stop bleed on pine .
  12. Do it molds x2 colorant

    Spikeit/Lureworks colors are good strong colors.
  13. Kingsley is 250 degrees F., +/- 20 degrees. Some China foils are ~360 degrees F. I hope this helps some.
  14. Do it molds x2 colorant

    Does anyone know what happened to all the do it molds x2 colorant? I used to pour baits about 2 years ago and now getting back into it and was looking at purchasing colors and I remembers th x2 was the best but they don’t have all the colors especially the colors I need. Does anyone know what happened or suggest a company that makes really strong colorant, ps. Looking for black, watermelon, blue, green pumpkin, I’m trying to order from all the same place to save money on shipping , thanks
  15. I think it is harder for any adhesive to stick to bare lead than to etex. Like to see you try your adhesive on top of a layer of etex. there are many kinds of transfer foil of which I am not familiar with, but some holographic foils, the holograph can be destroyed by heat. Probably the nail holographic foils I use would be sensitive to heat. I found also that if you rub too hard, you damage the hologram. The kingsley holographid hot stamping foils sold on ebay by dc kelly would probably be more heat resistance although I cannot verify this.
  16. Yesterday
  17. I blundered into the video of someone hot pressing plastic baits that I had talked about above.
  18. 702 substitute

    Since BTS seams unreliable I was looking for a 702 substitute. I emailed about there 736 and there 720 Jr mold. I will post a copy of the email below but basically the 720 and Jr are more similar to the BTS 702 claw wise. However, the 720 is a square body which I personally like better anyway. You have to look closely at the 736 pic on their site to see what she is talking about but one pincer is flat on top/raised on bottom and the other pincer raised on top/flat on bottom to produce what they called a "paddling action." I ordered the 720, 720 Jr and lam plate. When I get some done up I will post a pic in the gallery section. Hope this helps someone out. Hi John! the 702 was designed by Robert Jones at BTSMOLDS. A few years ago we carried his designs. We no longer do. the 736 is similar in shape, but the craws are unique. the craw tips rotate inward on one side and outward on the other. it was designed this way to create more of a paddling action. the 720jr is a smaller version of our 720 the 720/720jr have claws more similar to the 702. I hope this helps! thankyou! sarah -----Original Message----- From: "john williams" Sent: Monday, January 22, 2018 10:04am To: "" Subject: A couple question I found an archive of an old mold you used to make called the 702. I noticed you dont make it anymore but it is real similar to your 736. how do these two molds compare to each other? Also, how does it compare to the 720 Jr. Thanks- John
  19. 3d crankbait

    I have not. The original one downloaded was in 3d or fusion 360's file so I passed it on to the lab admin to convert over. Might have to give the stl. A try and just print it myself. I'll see if I can download it and find a open printer tomorrow.
  20. Pre-drilled beads

  21. swim jig heads

    Mark, I really like that Trokar Pro Swim Jig!! I wasn't sure about it as it used a 60 degree flat eye hook but it has become my heavy hitter. It comes through heavy brush really well and while it uses a heavy hook it still remains relatively compact. I'll be totally honest, I got that mold with 1 purpose in mind, to make a bladed swim jig, but my curiosity got the best of me and I decided to make a few just to swim with and I was really impressed with how well it did. You can use a lot of different trailers but a short and stocky bait gives this jig a big profile while still remaining compact because of the 60 degree hook, the 4" Big Bite Baits shad and 4" Mister Twister Sassy Shad have worked well as have the more traditional slender baits but I like using that head for heavy cover and a bigger presence in the water.
  22. Pre-drilled beads

    where can I purchase pre-drilled hole beads to make salmon and steelhead jigs?
  23. Flying Fish mold

    Anyone know if someone makes a flying fish mold? Thx
  24. For the most part I was just playing, and the spray gave a much shorter cycle time. This weekends experiment only had one lead jigging spoon and I just put it onto bare lead, with an e-text top coat. For myself I see me migrating to the heat transfer for the jigging spoons I will want flash on , at this point I am figuring out how to powder coat and I think the hot tranfer matches up well. I am thinking I could pull it out of the curing oven and just drop it onto a high temp press to transfer the foil. One question would the hot transfer stand up to powder clear or would it just be better to epoxy clear coat. Does someone have a link to hot transfer foil that they like.
  25. Aluminum injection mold laminates?

    No one was arguing that they didn't, the OP made the comment on why they were so cheap, I simply answered the question
  26. Harbour freight compressor

    I use my Talon most of the time, but if I have a questionable paint, or shoot a non-water paint, I use the HF airbrush. I can't shoot the with the detail of my Talon, but that was never my goal.
  27. Yes I have no idea if my foil binder will stick to Etex. But I do not use Etex anyway. What I do is cast and clean the jig. Then apply as little foil adhesive as possible with a brush. I really do mean as little as possible while still covering the entire jig. Then I heat the jig while holding with hemostats. I usually have my heat gun heat setting dialed in to between 350*f and 400*f and use the higher fan setting. Once it's hot I apply the precut foil and place between carpet scraps in the vice. Tighten the vice down good and hard. Then I remove and peel off the foil plastic leaving just the foil. I touch up the edges with silver metallic rc car paint. Then Once dry I airbrush createx accent colors. Once dry again I add the one and only clearcoat which is currently Alumi UV. It is cured in my UV light box for 20 minutes or so. This method works great for me on foiled lead jigs. Certainly use what works for you!
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