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  2. conversion really made a difference - #1 being useless

    Back before i made my own plastics i caught a ton of walleyes on the exact bait on the far left so I guess I wouldn't say it's useless. I do like a straight tail bait in some situations too though. Especially cold water.
  3. Today
  4. Help With DYI Pull Pin For Egg Sinker Mold

    For $5 I would buy the pull pin... http://store.do-itmolds.com/Pull-Pin-PEG-332--_p_916.html
  5. Soft temper wire for through wire

    I make larger thru wire lures for saltwater 4 to 7 in. I use annealed 304L stainless steel wire .062 in (11-1/2 in long). These come with one end pre bent from NJ Tackle. https://www.njtackle.com/plug-building-supplies/wire/ NJ Tackle also has all the components you will need to do your job. Check out how to "Wiring A Wooden Plug" with Dave Anderson. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fzSQgy_6QU&t=28s Tip: Before you wire your first plug take a piece of the wire and practice doing tail wraps per the video. This will build your confidence and skill so when it comes time to wire your lure you get it right. Some guys use screws vs thru wire. I prefer to do thru wire because I would never want to loose a good fish because of a failed plug.
  6. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    I'm reading this as don't let the KBS drip back into the dipping jar. I haven't used Rustoleum liquid. How does it work for baits? Is it the same stuff that's in the X2 Gloss Acrylic?
  7. Basecoat

    I like rattle can primers because they have more solids than water based white, so two coats, 30 minutes apart, give me a much smoother surface to paint.
  8. APPEARANCE OVER INNOVATION

    I sometimes wonder if we the members of the group who make our lures from a solid block of wood and not purchased blanks are doing ourselves and maybe the tackle industry a disservice. Hear me out here, we have the ability to create the next great lure. Maybe if we would look more towards the innovation aspect instead of trying to create a flawless realistic paint job someone from this group might create the next big thing. The tackle industry in generations past had many lure innovations brought to the market. Some good some bad (real bad). The thing is they were trying. With the tackle industry being dominated by bigger companies buying out the smaller guys all the time, innovation has been replaced by more lure colors and slight variations of the same lures. So maybe next time we get out the scroll saw to shape a lure, stop and think. What if................................
  9. I searched and saw some topics(mostly about smaller lures), but I want some really specific answers on this one. I'm going to be making some lures through wire and I wanted to know what you guys usually use for larger lures from 6" and up. I'm going to be making these lures for saltwater, pike, musky, etc. I had originally bought a large coil from LPO( .062" diameter). I tried bending that stuff multiple times and I can't get that thing to bend correctly for anything to make line ties on the front of lures or the rear. It's really, really rigid and I've wasted a lot of it. From a lot of videos I've seen on youtube of people bending wire for line ties, the wire bends so easily! I know a lot of you order soft temper(0.41" and smaller) from McMaster-Carr, but what diameter and item number for the larger lures? I looked before and there are so many options. Thank in advance
  10. Help With DYI Pull Pin For Egg Sinker Mold

    Cadman thanks for the info. I got a new old stock mold that didn't have a pull pin (thanks for size). These will not need to be painted but it's good info if I decide to use molds that do.
  11. Defective Blanks

    I'm not going to say the company. I've had good products from them in the past and like the other companies that sell blanks, he has some that I really like and are good quality that are only available through him.
  12. Help With DYI Pull Pin For Egg Sinker Mold

    You should have gotten a pull pin with this mold if you bought it new. I use stainless steel, and I also use drop out on the pull pin. Remember if you use oil, you will have to de-grease these really well if you decide to paint them. Finally I believe the pull pin diameter is .060 on that mold
  13. Defective Blanks

    What company? I have had something similar happen, But both times I was fixed up... After some arm twisting.
  14. Defective Blanks

    Hey guys. I recently purchased some defective baits (not by choice). I bought 50 of a particular blank and over half had bills that were crooked. And even the ones with the best places bills would not tune. I sent the supplier an email explaining the defective baits. I was polite and just explained the situation and said he may want to check his stock and manufacturer. I did not ask for a refund or anything. And in the same email, asked if he had a certain blank in stock (to me this shows I want to do business with this company). 8 days later the reply came and said he was not calling me a liar but he has had no issues with that blank. What got me was the I'm not calling you a liar but. If you say you are not calling me a liar and then say but. Aren't you calling me a liar? Ok done with my rant and on to a question: Do any of you have experience with a particular style or model bait that no matter where you purchase it from they are just junk? It kinda would be nice to have a list somewhere to warn some of us of blanks not to purchase. I don't have money to just blow on junk nor do I want to paint and maybe 1 day sell junk with my name attached to it. BTW: I have sent 2 emails with pictures to the supplier and a third asking if he had received them. No word back.
  15. Yesterday
  16. Basecoat

    I mainly paint wood cranks and always seal first. I use shellac as it dries quick. First coat sand what ever grain lifts then a second coat. This typically will give a good substrate to build on. I then spray (airbrush) a cheap white paint that has been thinned slightly as they typically seam to contain more pigment. I have used Krylon a few times and have dipped quite a few in a thinned Zinnser primer. Have also dipped a lot of propionate , dissolved solo cups, and superglue (balsa) on wood baits also. As long as your wood baits are sealed paint builds up quick. If not sealed a much slower process as several coats of paint will be needed to reach a smooth surface.
  17. Help With DYI Pull Pin For Egg Sinker Mold

    Agree, stainless should keep it's shape and remain smooth. Didn't know to use oil, definitely cheaper than drop out. Thanks for the tip.
  18. Basecoat

    We don't seem to like the phrase "trial and error", but in reality that is what we do. The fact is that each of us has our own Best Way and I don't think any two of us do it the same. I have primed with an airbrush a lot, and it works, but it is not always easy. If I was priming pre-fabricated plastic baits, and I use to buy a lot of them, I would roughen the surface with fine sandpaper, clean with an alcohol wipe, then prime with an airbrush using a hi hide white, water based. I found that to work best. If I was priming wood baits, and I have done my share in the last 50 years, I would seal the wood first (sealer has changed a lot over the years), then again sand with fine paper to roughen, then clean with Alcohol wipe, then prime again with water based hi hide white with an airbrush. If I am molding my own with resin, then I have to deal with the lead or tungsten at the surface of the bait that I used for ballast. This is when I need to be creative. Sometimes I spray the inside of my mold with the Krylon and then mold the lure. The resin takes on the "primer" and makes it a lot easier, but I need to clean the overspray from the silicone mold (pretty easy). If I don't pour within about an hour or priming the mold then sometimes the primer does not transfer well and it is splotchy, so again, a little different method. But, most of the time I am not in PRODUCTION MODE so don't do it that way. That is when I go to the spray methods, and the rattle cans cover so much faster than the airbrush water or solvent based......they simply have more solids in the spray. If I am molding them myself, I don't have issues with the solvent damaging the baits. So, as you can see, lots of different ways. So, at the risk of saying again, it really is "trial and error". Wow, hope this helps, did not mean to make it so long.
  19. Help With DYI Pull Pin For Egg Sinker Mold

    I'd use a stainless steel wire larger than the largest line I'd use. I'd coat them with oil each pour instead of dropout as I don't think it would last but one pour and soon get expensive.
  20. Mold: Do-It EG-5-LA Egg Sinker I never used a pull pin before and need to make one for this mold that I just purchased. What is material of choice and size wire to use to make pull pins from? I plan on coating pin with drop out to prevent sticking in the mold.
  21. Minnow silver

    I've used it quite a bit and it's never arcedon me reheated or put in before heating.
  22. Basecoat

    With the original Bill Lewis Rattletrsps use a sanding block and sand the eyrs flat. Then use 3d eyes before clear. Mucheasier than painting eyes and looks bettet. I like slightly larger eyes that baby fish typically have. These are 7mm
  23. Basecoat

    Personally I now use spray gun, but used spray cans prior to that, as well as airbrush. I would choose rattle can over airbrush .
  24. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    I don't use a respirator when doing a few short runs but if I'm running several hundred pieces, I do wear one. An exhaust fan will do wonders and is a lot more cost friendly.
  25. Looking for molds like these.

    Yeah, it sorta watered my eyes a bit. Converted to USD, their kit which includes the two molds, 328USD for one cavity. Plus shipping, of course.
  26. top water

    Lure Parts Online is your bait making super store. Get on the site and search for "props" and the Chopper Prop will show up there, no. 4034. Left and Right.
  27. Basecoat

    I could have phrased my question better. This was the kind of guidance I was looking for. Basically, I'm wondering if most of you apply a base coat with your airbrush or with some other means (rattle can, for example). Is there some benefit to applying base coat with an airbrush? I'm currently painting old Rat-L-Traps. They're cheap and a good practice lure, since I'm only starting to learn how to airbrush. I've been hand-sanding the original surface prior to applying a base coat of Createx Autoborne Sealer, but I was wondering if a base coat of rattle can primer would work just as well.
  28. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Personally it doesn't worry me to much but I do vent. I have used a respirator as a precaution, in some instances large extended pours, but overall low on my list of "dangers" I encounter daily. If using a box fan already personally I would just change the set up slightly. For years I set up with a cheap microwave on a card table in a plywood shroud with box fan in the back blowing out the window. No fumes to deal with and no smell in the room. Also used a similar set up in the kitchen with box fan in the window board/microwave across the sink and a "hood" made from pink foam insulation taped. I have come across threads over the years and some guys report headaches, dizziness, nose bleeds, irritated nose/throat, water/itchy eyes, , congestion and may feel "sick" the following day. A few I figure are just paranoid guys, some coincidence, and then some legit. Some plasitsol manufactures included lung irritation as a symptom of long term exposure. The usual irritation/dermatitis warning also gets slapped on it frequently in regards to skin exposure. You will also see decomp products generally listed as: carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and HCl listed and the cover our rears "and others possible". Now not that big of deal as heat about any organic up and carbon dioxide and monoxide not that rare by any means.
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