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  1. Past hour
  2. Bug profiled soft plastics

    Here is the progress so far. A wire frame, rough sculpey form and after a bit with jewelers files
  3. Today
  4. Laminate color combinations

    Not having the mold or any real experience, but I would have though the bond would be better where the plastic was thinner. Thinking it would be thinner and more likely to re-melt.
  5. Where to find bandit 100 series crankbaits

    New to airbrushing and have learned a lot on this site . Thanks
  6. Where to find bandit 100 series crankbaits

    Looking for the same but in the 300 series.
  7. How do you paint this pattern

    Good luck finding the stuff! After a LOT of searching I found it at Hobby Lobby. Is was a roll of "Tulle" . Here is how it's done
  8. Yesterday
  9. Baits not smooth

    It’s all good as long as we all get the info we need
  10. Poison Swingtail Jig

    I think the big advantage is being able to add virtually any hook and it can be used to swim a bait with extra action.
  11. Protech Curing

    Not the jigs themselves. The paint.
  12. Baits not smooth

    Thanks guys. I think I will go with a 6CFM pump as recommended by you guys and I will get a chamber that is three times the size of my biggest possible silicon batch. Really appreciate the insight. For now my molds pour very nice once warmed up but I will eventually replace them with degassed ones starting with a couple this Spring. I appreciate your help greatly. Hioefully Juan got something out of this as I ended up hijacking his thread. Sorry.
  13. Protech Curing

    If the jigs are melting your oven is way too hot.
  14. Color dispersion question

    Update...this solved the issue, thanks!
  15. How do you paint this pattern

    Its a lace fabric. multiple layers of paint. @mdojet Loves painting with that stuff. Check with him, he is pretty good with it.
  16. Nail Art Powder

    Same chinese plastic body. Different colours, but same "painting" technique: black sprayed base, spray transparent gloss plastidip, 5 min waiting, spread your prefered nail art powder, spray transparent plastidip. You can obtain iridescent colour, holographic and mirror effects. Bye Cami
  17. Poison Swingtail Jig

    It would come through grass or wood cover better then a FB swing head. And it looks cool! It sells quit well with a skirt and sweet beaver rigged on the hook.
  18. What Is It

    I got this lure out of a old tackle box. It is red and White balsa wood 4" long 3/4" wide no markings on it . When open the hooks become weed free and when the fish bites it the upper and lower hook open to catch the fish. I looked every where and cannot find it. I know somewhere out there someone knows. Looks like a summer job to make. Wayne
  19. Baits not smooth

    In my experience your not getting the air out unless you pull vacumm and let it pop on its own. Letting air in doesnt pop the bubbles it only lets them rest back into the material. ONe single time is all that is needed. I have probably degassed at least 500 drums of plastic 1 gallon at a time. Take my advice for what its worth.
  20. How do you paint this pattern

    I saw this bait on Brotherhood of Crankbait painters facebook page. It is a random mesh fabric doubled over itself.
  21. Spro little John DD blanks

    You’re my hero for this. I have a ton of people looking for them and while I’m not A Painter I have been the guy finding blanks, super excited to see how this goes. The deep little John’s and speed trap blanks would be a game changer.
  22. Baits not smooth

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=18dvPrp7jEj9-cO7Z2Iqf9K3KNEOVjae8 Before I got my vacuum system, I did a lot of research and also contacted Alumilite. I got some good information that I think might help you. The above video is a shaky video I did for a test video when I was doing to test my camera equipment. It is short, so you can see how long it took for about 200 ml of silicone that I was doing. I cannot find the written response so I will go from memory and give you what I can from my system. You don't need a 3 or 6 gallon chamber, but you do need a chamber about 3 times larger than the largest amount you plan to degas. So, I figured I would need about a pint of material max at any one time so I only really needed a 3 pint size, less than a gallon. I opted for a 1.5 gallon size because I found a great price on Amazon for the package I wanted. The reason for the size is because the material foams up and expands a lot when you degas. Silicone expands different then Plastisol, or Resin, etc., but the amount of expansion seems to be equal or less than 3 times. Smooth-On and Alumilite both suggested a Rotary Vane vacuum pump, two stage. I am not going to try to explain it, just pass it on. Alumilite suggested a 6 CFM (cubic feet per minute) size pump. I doubt that I needed that much pump for the 1.5 gallon size chamber I got, but I went with the suggested volume. One thing is for sure, when I am degassing a fast setting resin, I want it to be as fast as possible and having that bigger pump is awesome. When degassing Plastisol or even the slower curing silicone, it is not so big a deal. Zero pressure is a bit of a misnomer. We can get close; we can get close enough. The thicker the material, the lower the pressure needs to go. The gage you will get will read zero when you have your unit properly set up, but this is zero relative to your elevation. At sea level, you might be able to get a reading as low as minus 29 or minus 30 inches of mercury, but at 4000 feet elevation, you might only get to minus 24 inches of mercury. Both are almost zero pressure. Don't let the gage reading confuse you. Your material will tell you when it is ready. Once you place your material in the vacuum and start it, the material will foam and expand. Once it expands to the maximum (quickly), shut it down and let the air back in to collapse it. This will crush the bubbles. Now draw a vacuum again. I find that doing this a couple of times is all I need, and with a fast setting material, all I have time for. You will need to log in, but you can do a search on this help forum or ask the question from Alumilite. https://alumilite.freeforums.net/board/4/molding-casting
  23. Dead on plastix

    I’m like you I’m always open to new ideas and products. I use baitjunkies degassed most of the time medium or soft with good success I’ve also used the economy which is not degassed which did have bubbles but they were minimal (cooked in a pot) the bubbles go away . I’ve also had good experiences with M and F super soft very heat tolerant and no bubbles and have no bubble issue in micro wave with either the bjs premium degassed and M n F . Remelts that sit around with salt in them will collect moisture which will bubble but if you cook it you can get it out . Sometimes I’ll let the plastic rest hot in micro to let the bubbles out. They are both very good plastics that will take heat but we still have to keep an eye on them so they don’t scorch . Some plastics are by nature more heat stable than others but I can only speak for my self when I say this but when it scorched it’s because of me not the plastic. The trick is to find the happy medium where you heat it as little as possible use as much of it as you can on the first heat when used in the micro. Now as far as a pot goes , as long as I keep the temp in the sweet spot for what I’m shooting I have not scorched plastic in a pot in a long time and here again it was me not the plastic
  24. Protech Curing

    You can buy a oven thermometer at Wally World for about 5 bucks.
  25. Wanting to convert to an underspin. Help needed!

    The worm nose mold should work for an underspin. If you aren’t using it anyway, why not try it? I would lay whatever underspin attachment I wanted to use in the mold on there and see how it fits with the hook and screw lock in place also. Just make sure there aren’t any clearance issues. Although I don’t have any clearance issues with the plastic and spinner with this mod, you may want to look at that also. Just a few things to think about. Good luck....
  26. Wanting to convert to an underspin. Help needed!

    Thanks Smalljaw. My memory didn’t serve me well on this one. It was the 2831 I used and enjoy its longer shank for this mod.
  27. Dead on plastix

    I'm always looking to try new things, which brand do you use that reheats as well with less bubbles? I got a little less than a gallon left so its almost time to order some more.
  28. Dead on plastix

    To each their own I tried it once before and had bubble issues which is not a big deal for people who cook in pots , which I do sometimes . Most of the time I cook in the micro and the bubbles drive me nuts. What I should have said was it reheats well like most plastics but the bubbles are there. Just my opinion there are other plastics out that don’t bubble at all and reheat as well for price point close to what they charge. I’m not saying it’s junk. All I’m saying is if price was all that matters like it did for me when I first started making plastics then by all means you just have to accept the characteristics of that plastic . Another point to consider is sometimes we introduce the microbubbles too by stiring to much or to hard
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