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  2. Looking for molds like these.

    Yeah, it sorta watered my eyes a bit. Converted to USD, their kit which includes the two molds, 328USD for one cavity. Plus shipping, of course.
  3. top water

    Lure Parts Online is your bait making super store. Get on the site and search for "props" and the Chopper Prop will show up there, no. 4034. Left and Right.
  4. Today
  5. Basecoat

    I could have phrased my question better. This was the kind of guidance I was looking for. Basically, I'm wondering if most of you apply a base coat with your airbrush or with some other means (rattle can, for example). Is there some benefit to applying base coat with an airbrush? I'm currently painting old Rat-L-Traps. They're cheap and a good practice lure, since I'm only starting to learn how to airbrush. I've been hand-sanding the original surface prior to applying a base coat of Createx Autoborne Sealer, but I was wondering if a base coat of rattle can primer would work just as well.
  6. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Personally it doesn't worry me to much but I do vent. I have used a respirator as a precaution, in some instances large extended pours, but overall low on my list of "dangers" I encounter daily. If using a box fan already personally I would just change the set up slightly. For years I set up with a cheap microwave on a card table in a plywood shroud with box fan in the back blowing out the window. No fumes to deal with and no smell in the room. Also used a similar set up in the kitchen with box fan in the window board/microwave across the sink and a "hood" made from pink foam insulation taped. I have come across threads over the years and some guys report headaches, dizziness, nose bleeds, irritated nose/throat, water/itchy eyes, , congestion and may feel "sick" the following day. A few I figure are just paranoid guys, some coincidence, and then some legit. Some plasitsol manufactures included lung irritation as a symptom of long term exposure. The usual irritation/dermatitis warning also gets slapped on it frequently in regards to skin exposure. You will also see decomp products generally listed as: carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and HCl listed and the cover our rears "and others possible". Now not that big of deal as heat about any organic up and carbon dioxide and monoxide not that rare by any means.
  7. Basecoat rattle cans??

    I lost a few paint jobs by using a can primer like BobP has stated. After stripping the baits back down it didn't take me long to go back to what I was doing prior. I was painting wooden blanks with a sealer coat. You may do better with a brand you want to use. One brand makes a plastic fusion primer, becareful tho with the break down of the body wall, of the bait and the solvents used in it. I haven't painted plastic blanks for some time now. LOL, I hate to use these words, "trial and error". You may need to experiment.
  8. Barrel twist wire screw eye

    I use .30 SS TIG rods. I use pliers (large jewelers, Klines, needle or whatever) like the rest, to form the eye then I put the eye in a wood block vice and twist the leads which gives a uniform twist. I'm very aware of protecting the eye. Many people that use my baits like to tie directly up to the baits tow eye, including myself some times. It took me awhile to get the hang of it but now I just get at it. I dont use these type of eyes for all baits just for ones that would be at greater stress than normal. I make some musky baits with these and striper baits. Standard eyelets that you buy from lets say LPO is just fine for standard fishing. The standard types when installed properly will hold unbelieve stress.
  9. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    Some, I put a paper clip on the tail and hang the head first, I allow it to continue to level and drip. I dip fairly fast and get the jar closed as soon as possible. I also use forceps to put the bait into the jar. Here lately I have been using Rostoleum mainly. To me it gives a more natrual look. As long as the clear coat gives me a good life spand and a look that I'm after I'll use it. Have you seen Rustoleum in liquid?
  10. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Thanks for the info

    Made to order, fully customizable soft plastics. 17 bait styles; 55+ colorants, scents, hi-lites, and flakes....everything you need to design your perfect bait -
  12. Basecoat rattle cans??

    One thing to note. If you use MCU to topcoat your baits, you can get a solvent incompatibility between the basecoat and it causing the paint to wrinkle in some cases, especially if the basecoat is an enamel. Best to do a test before trusting it.
  13. Looking for molds like these.

    No unfortunatly, you would need to commission a custom mold - easier to pay the price for those - and admittably its a huge asking price.
  14. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    LOL, I should have refrained from answering this question. BUT, I am not Catholic so I don't think the Vatican will come down on me if I seem to Pontificate about the subject. Just because you can smell something does not make it dangerous, at least to most of us. You smell perfume, air freshener, hand lotions, etc., etc., and they don't hurt you. Now, on the other hand, it gives my wife an allergic reaction and she has a rescue inhaler for church and when she flies, and it is soooooo fun getting on an airplane with the 3M half face mask for organic vapors. Yes, you can do it, but the looks are unreal. A doctor's prescription/note sure does help. On the other hand, my wife has no issues at all with my plastisol in the microwave. Get the SDS (Safety Data Sheet) for the plastisol you use, learn what PEL (permissible exposure limit) is. After all, inhale too much water and you will drown, inhale too little and you dehydrate and die, just right and you have a humidifier. Some, and they are on this site, will preach ultra safety, and if I was doing commercial amounts I would sure have a sniffer and monitor the PEL levels. I do believe in safety, but I have learned to know what safety really is, and I attempt to not overreact. Check out the attached SDS from Alumisol and their Plastisol. I have highlighted the applicable sections in yellow. Other brands might not be the same, but all are similar. Ultimately you must decide for yourself. BUT, while you can never be too safe, you can be safer then you need to be. "Just saying" I think is the in phrase now. Good luck on your research, but I advise that you do not take what we say as though we are lawyers; WE ARE NOT! Alumisol SDS -1.pdf
  15. Barrel twist wire screw eye

    PS, I usually use brass when I do it. It is easier to tune and easier to make.
  16. Basecoat rattle cans??

    Nope, never done LOL, but have done hardbaits. Keep the coats, usually keep them as thin as possible, close together, about 30 minutes apart, then mist them with the airbrush paint about 30 minutes after the last coat. Then you must let it dry the full 24 hours before doing the regular AB methods.
  17. Basecoat

    LOL, basecoats are not easy, and the items you basecoat can make it harder. I pour resins a lot, and the white resins help some, but the lead ballast I pour into it can migrate to the surface and makes it tough to coat. The options given above are pretty good. I also base coat with Krylon spray paint, the fusion was my favorite, but it is hard to find now. I still have issues getting it to cover the lead shot on the surface. I started doing something weird, something very weird. I rattle can a metallic Rustoleum on first, then rattle can the white Krylon over it. It takes far fewer coats now. Tell us something about what you are based coating and it will be easier.
  18. Basecoat rattle cans??

    Anybody using rattle can paint for base coat on plastic hardbaits? Want to do 20 at a time. I mostly want to do white base coat. Thanks for your wisdom.
  19. test tube tubes

    What size nails did you use?
  20. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    I heat my plastic in a microwave. The fan on the microwave blows the fumes from the heating plastic into the room. I have a exhaust fan in the window of the room but the fumes/smell are still there to a point. I wear a 3M mask with the 6003 filter but I have a beard I don't get the best seal. Thats what has me thinking about the supplied air system with the half mask. The only thing that looks like it may be worrisome is the hose that goes to the unit. I can see where it could get in the way when walking around in the room. Im sure it is something that a person would have to get used to.
  21. reciep for steiger ice ?

    Looking for some help with making steiger ice color ? Any help would be greatly appreciated
  22. Basecoat

    I use Polytranspar Superhide white; lots of pigment, dries faster than normal to a smooth hard surface. Most airbrush paint brands include a highly pigmented white intended for color basecoating, with which you can basecoat with two coats of paint on wood lures. Is it a hassle? Maybe but necessary for most color schemes.
  23. Looking for molds like these.

    Is there anything else similar out there?
  24. top water

    Be aware there is a left and right blade for from and back to couneter act the toque. Avid has a blank but blades are plastic.
  25. Basecoat

    Golden's titanium white. You're welcome
  26. Basecoat

    What do you guys use for a basecoat prior to airbrushing? I'm just getting started and applying a basecoat via airbrush seems inefficient.
  27. Looking for molds like these.

    AI angling make it exclusively for u make em soft plastics in Australia.
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