All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Defective Blanks

    I'm not going to say the company. I've had good products from them in the past and like the other companies that sell blanks, he has some that I really like and are good quality that are only available through him.
  3. Help With DYI Pull Pin For Egg Sinker Mold

    You should have gotten a pull pin with this mold if you bought it new. I use stainless steel, and I also use drop out on the pull pin. Remember if you use oil, you will have to de-grease these really well if you decide to paint them. Finally I believe the pull pin diameter is .060 on that mold
  4. Defective Blanks

    What company? I have had something similar happen, But both times I was fixed up... After some arm twisting.
  5. Defective Blanks

    Hey guys. I recently purchased some defective baits (not by choice). I bought 50 of a particular blank and over half had bills that were crooked. And even the ones with the best places bills would not tune. I sent the supplier an email explaining the defective baits. I was polite and just explained the situation and said he may want to check his stock and manufacturer. I did not ask for a refund or anything. And in the same email, asked if he had a certain blank in stock (to me this shows I want to do business with this company). 8 days later the reply came and said he was not calling me a liar but he has had no issues with that blank. What got me was the I'm not calling you a liar but. If you say you are not calling me a liar and then say but. Aren't you calling me a liar? Ok done with my rant and on to a question: Do any of you have experience with a particular style or model bait that no matter where you purchase it from they are just junk? It kinda would be nice to have a list somewhere to warn some of us of blanks not to purchase. I don't have money to just blow on junk nor do I want to paint and maybe 1 day sell junk with my name attached to it. BTW: I have sent 2 emails with pictures to the supplier and a third asking if he had received them. No word back.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Basecoat

    I mainly paint wood cranks and always seal first. I use shellac as it dries quick. First coat sand what ever grain lifts then a second coat. This typically will give a good substrate to build on. I then spray (airbrush) a cheap white paint that has been thinned slightly as they typically seam to contain more pigment. I have used Krylon a few times and have dipped quite a few in a thinned Zinnser primer. Have also dipped a lot of propionate , dissolved solo cups, and superglue (balsa) on wood baits also. As long as your wood baits are sealed paint builds up quick. If not sealed a much slower process as several coats of paint will be needed to reach a smooth surface.
  8. Help With DYI Pull Pin For Egg Sinker Mold

    Agree, stainless should keep it's shape and remain smooth. Didn't know to use oil, definitely cheaper than drop out. Thanks for the tip.
  9. Basecoat

    We don't seem to like the phrase "trial and error", but in reality that is what we do. The fact is that each of us has our own Best Way and I don't think any two of us do it the same. I have primed with an airbrush a lot, and it works, but it is not always easy. If I was priming pre-fabricated plastic baits, and I use to buy a lot of them, I would roughen the surface with fine sandpaper, clean with an alcohol wipe, then prime with an airbrush using a hi hide white, water based. I found that to work best. If I was priming wood baits, and I have done my share in the last 50 years, I would seal the wood first (sealer has changed a lot over the years), then again sand with fine paper to roughen, then clean with Alcohol wipe, then prime again with water based hi hide white with an airbrush. If I am molding my own with resin, then I have to deal with the lead or tungsten at the surface of the bait that I used for ballast. This is when I need to be creative. Sometimes I spray the inside of my mold with the Krylon and then mold the lure. The resin takes on the "primer" and makes it a lot easier, but I need to clean the overspray from the silicone mold (pretty easy). If I don't pour within about an hour or priming the mold then sometimes the primer does not transfer well and it is splotchy, so again, a little different method. But, most of the time I am not in PRODUCTION MODE so don't do it that way. That is when I go to the spray methods, and the rattle cans cover so much faster than the airbrush water or solvent based......they simply have more solids in the spray. If I am molding them myself, I don't have issues with the solvent damaging the baits. So, as you can see, lots of different ways. So, at the risk of saying again, it really is "trial and error". Wow, hope this helps, did not mean to make it so long.
  10. Help With DYI Pull Pin For Egg Sinker Mold

    I'd use a stainless steel wire larger than the largest line I'd use. I'd coat them with oil each pour instead of dropout as I don't think it would last but one pour and soon get expensive.
  11. Mold: Do-It EG-5-LA Egg Sinker I never used a pull pin before and need to make one for this mold that I just purchased. What is material of choice and size wire to use to make pull pins from? I plan on coating pin with drop out to prevent sticking in the mold.
  12. Minnow silver

    I've used it quite a bit and it's never arcedon me reheated or put in before heating.
  13. Basecoat

    With the original Bill Lewis Rattletrsps use a sanding block and sand the eyrs flat. Then use 3d eyes before clear. Mucheasier than painting eyes and looks bettet. I like slightly larger eyes that baby fish typically have. These are 7mm
  14. Basecoat

    Personally I now use spray gun, but used spray cans prior to that, as well as airbrush. I would choose rattle can over airbrush .
  15. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    I don't use a respirator when doing a few short runs but if I'm running several hundred pieces, I do wear one. An exhaust fan will do wonders and is a lot more cost friendly.
  16. Looking for molds like these.

    Yeah, it sorta watered my eyes a bit. Converted to USD, their kit which includes the two molds, 328USD for one cavity. Plus shipping, of course.
  17. top water

    Lure Parts Online is your bait making super store. Get on the site and search for "props" and the Chopper Prop will show up there, no. 4034. Left and Right.
  18. Basecoat

    I could have phrased my question better. This was the kind of guidance I was looking for. Basically, I'm wondering if most of you apply a base coat with your airbrush or with some other means (rattle can, for example). Is there some benefit to applying base coat with an airbrush? I'm currently painting old Rat-L-Traps. They're cheap and a good practice lure, since I'm only starting to learn how to airbrush. I've been hand-sanding the original surface prior to applying a base coat of Createx Autoborne Sealer, but I was wondering if a base coat of rattle can primer would work just as well.
  19. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Personally it doesn't worry me to much but I do vent. I have used a respirator as a precaution, in some instances large extended pours, but overall low on my list of "dangers" I encounter daily. If using a box fan already personally I would just change the set up slightly. For years I set up with a cheap microwave on a card table in a plywood shroud with box fan in the back blowing out the window. No fumes to deal with and no smell in the room. Also used a similar set up in the kitchen with box fan in the window board/microwave across the sink and a "hood" made from pink foam insulation taped. I have come across threads over the years and some guys report headaches, dizziness, nose bleeds, irritated nose/throat, water/itchy eyes, , congestion and may feel "sick" the following day. A few I figure are just paranoid guys, some coincidence, and then some legit. Some plasitsol manufactures included lung irritation as a symptom of long term exposure. The usual irritation/dermatitis warning also gets slapped on it frequently in regards to skin exposure. You will also see decomp products generally listed as: carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and HCl listed and the cover our rears "and others possible". Now not that big of deal as heat about any organic up and carbon dioxide and monoxide not that rare by any means.
  20. Basecoat rattle cans??

    I lost a few paint jobs by using a can primer like BobP has stated. After stripping the baits back down it didn't take me long to go back to what I was doing prior. I was painting wooden blanks with a sealer coat. You may do better with a brand you want to use. One brand makes a plastic fusion primer, becareful tho with the break down of the body wall, of the bait and the solvents used in it. I haven't painted plastic blanks for some time now. LOL, I hate to use these words, "trial and error". You may need to experiment.
  21. Barrel twist wire screw eye

    I use .30 SS TIG rods. I use pliers (large jewelers, Klines, needle or whatever) like the rest, to form the eye then I put the eye in a wood block vice and twist the leads which gives a uniform twist. I'm very aware of protecting the eye. Many people that use my baits like to tie directly up to the baits tow eye, including myself some times. It took me awhile to get the hang of it but now I just get at it. I dont use these type of eyes for all baits just for ones that would be at greater stress than normal. I make some musky baits with these and striper baits. Standard eyelets that you buy from lets say LPO is just fine for standard fishing. The standard types when installed properly will hold unbelieve stress.
  22. Rustoleum Clear Coats

    Some, I put a paper clip on the tail and hang the head first, I allow it to continue to level and drip. I dip fairly fast and get the jar closed as soon as possible. I also use forceps to put the bait into the jar. Here lately I have been using Rostoleum mainly. To me it gives a more natrual look. As long as the clear coat gives me a good life spand and a look that I'm after I'll use it. Have you seen Rustoleum in liquid?
  23. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    Thanks for the info

    Made to order, fully customizable soft plastics. 17 bait styles; 55+ colorants, scents, hi-lites, and flakes....everything you need to design your perfect bait -
  25. Basecoat rattle cans??

    One thing to note. If you use MCU to topcoat your baits, you can get a solvent incompatibility between the basecoat and it causing the paint to wrinkle in some cases, especially if the basecoat is an enamel. Best to do a test before trusting it.
  26. Looking for molds like these.

    No unfortunatly, you would need to commission a custom mold - easier to pay the price for those - and admittably its a huge asking price.
  27. Supplied Air Respirator Systems

    LOL, I should have refrained from answering this question. BUT, I am not Catholic so I don't think the Vatican will come down on me if I seem to Pontificate about the subject. Just because you can smell something does not make it dangerous, at least to most of us. You smell perfume, air freshener, hand lotions, etc., etc., and they don't hurt you. Now, on the other hand, it gives my wife an allergic reaction and she has a rescue inhaler for church and when she flies, and it is soooooo fun getting on an airplane with the 3M half face mask for organic vapors. Yes, you can do it, but the looks are unreal. A doctor's prescription/note sure does help. On the other hand, my wife has no issues at all with my plastisol in the microwave. Get the SDS (Safety Data Sheet) for the plastisol you use, learn what PEL (permissible exposure limit) is. After all, inhale too much water and you will drown, inhale too little and you dehydrate and die, just right and you have a humidifier. Some, and they are on this site, will preach ultra safety, and if I was doing commercial amounts I would sure have a sniffer and monitor the PEL levels. I do believe in safety, but I have learned to know what safety really is, and I attempt to not overreact. Check out the attached SDS from Alumisol and their Plastisol. I have highlighted the applicable sections in yellow. Other brands might not be the same, but all are similar. Ultimately you must decide for yourself. BUT, while you can never be too safe, you can be safer then you need to be. "Just saying" I think is the in phrase now. Good luck on your research, but I advise that you do not take what we say as though we are lawyers; WE ARE NOT! Alumisol SDS -1.pdf
  1. Load more activity