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  2. How do you paint this pattern

    Its a lace fabric. multiple layers of paint. @mdojet Loves painting with that stuff. Check with him, he is pretty good with it.
  3. Nail Art Powder

    Same chinese plastic body. Different colours, but same "painting" technique: black sprayed base, spray transparent gloss plastidip, 5 min waiting, spread your prefered nail art powder, spray transparent plastidip. You can obtain iridescent colour, holographic and mirror effects. Bye Cami
  4. Today
  5. Poison Swingtail Jig

    It would come through grass or wood cover better then a FB swing head. And it looks cool! It sells quit well with a skirt and sweet beaver rigged on the hook.
  6. What Is It

    I got this lure out of a old tackle box. It is red and White balsa wood 4" long 3/4" wide no markings on it . When open the hooks become weed free and when the fish bites it the upper and lower hook open to catch the fish. I looked every where and cannot find it. I know somewhere out there someone knows. Looks like a summer job to make. Wayne
  7. Baits not smooth

    In my experience your not getting the air out unless you pull vacumm and let it pop on its own. Letting air in doesnt pop the bubbles it only lets them rest back into the material. ONe single time is all that is needed. I have probably degassed at least 500 drums of plastic 1 gallon at a time. Take my advice for what its worth.
  8. How do you paint this pattern

    I saw this bait on Brotherhood of Crankbait painters facebook page. It is a random mesh fabric doubled over itself.
  9. Spro little John DD blanks

    You’re my hero for this. I have a ton of people looking for them and while I’m not A Painter I have been the guy finding blanks, super excited to see how this goes. The deep little John’s and speed trap blanks would be a game changer.
  10. Baits not smooth

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=18dvPrp7jEj9-cO7Z2Iqf9K3KNEOVjae8 Before I got my vacuum system, I did a lot of research and also contacted Alumilite. I got some good information that I think might help you. The above video is a shaky video I did for a test video when I was doing to test my camera equipment. It is short, so you can see how long it took for about 200 ml of silicone that I was doing. I cannot find the written response so I will go from memory and give you what I can from my system. You don't need a 3 or 6 gallon chamber, but you do need a chamber about 3 times larger than the largest amount you plan to degas. So, I figured I would need about a pint of material max at any one time so I only really needed a 3 pint size, less than a gallon. I opted for a 1.5 gallon size because I found a great price on Amazon for the package I wanted. The reason for the size is because the material foams up and expands a lot when you degas. Silicone expands different then Plastisol, or Resin, etc., but the amount of expansion seems to be equal or less than 3 times. Smooth-On and Alumilite both suggested a Rotary Vane vacuum pump, two stage. I am not going to try to explain it, just pass it on. Alumilite suggested a 6 CFM (cubic feet per minute) size pump. I doubt that I needed that much pump for the 1.5 gallon size chamber I got, but I went with the suggested volume. One thing is for sure, when I am degassing a fast setting resin, I want it to be as fast as possible and having that bigger pump is awesome. When degassing Plastisol or even the slower curing silicone, it is not so big a deal. Zero pressure is a bit of a misnomer. We can get close; we can get close enough. The thicker the material, the lower the pressure needs to go. The gage you will get will read zero when you have your unit properly set up, but this is zero relative to your elevation. At sea level, you might be able to get a reading as low as minus 29 or minus 30 inches of mercury, but at 4000 feet elevation, you might only get to minus 24 inches of mercury. Both are almost zero pressure. Don't let the gage reading confuse you. Your material will tell you when it is ready. Once you place your material in the vacuum and start it, the material will foam and expand. Once it expands to the maximum (quickly), shut it down and let the air back in to collapse it. This will crush the bubbles. Now draw a vacuum again. I find that doing this a couple of times is all I need, and with a fast setting material, all I have time for. You will need to log in, but you can do a search on this help forum or ask the question from Alumilite. https://alumilite.freeforums.net/board/4/molding-casting
  11. Dead on plastix

    I’m like you I’m always open to new ideas and products. I use baitjunkies degassed most of the time medium or soft with good success I’ve also used the economy which is not degassed which did have bubbles but they were minimal (cooked in a pot) the bubbles go away . I’ve also had good experiences with M and F super soft very heat tolerant and no bubbles and have no bubble issue in micro wave with either the bjs premium degassed and M n F . Remelts that sit around with salt in them will collect moisture which will bubble but if you cook it you can get it out . Sometimes I’ll let the plastic rest hot in micro to let the bubbles out. They are both very good plastics that will take heat but we still have to keep an eye on them so they don’t scorch . Some plastics are by nature more heat stable than others but I can only speak for my self when I say this but when it scorched it’s because of me not the plastic. The trick is to find the happy medium where you heat it as little as possible use as much of it as you can on the first heat when used in the micro. Now as far as a pot goes , as long as I keep the temp in the sweet spot for what I’m shooting I have not scorched plastic in a pot in a long time and here again it was me not the plastic
  12. Protech Curing

    You can buy a oven thermometer at Wally World for about 5 bucks.
  13. Wanting to convert to an underspin. Help needed!

    The worm nose mold should work for an underspin. If you aren’t using it anyway, why not try it? I would lay whatever underspin attachment I wanted to use in the mold on there and see how it fits with the hook and screw lock in place also. Just make sure there aren’t any clearance issues. Although I don’t have any clearance issues with the plastic and spinner with this mod, you may want to look at that also. Just a few things to think about. Good luck....
  14. Wanting to convert to an underspin. Help needed!

    Thanks Smalljaw. My memory didn’t serve me well on this one. It was the 2831 I used and enjoy its longer shank for this mod.
  15. Dead on plastix

    I'm always looking to try new things, which brand do you use that reheats as well with less bubbles? I got a little less than a gallon left so its almost time to order some more.
  16. Dead on plastix

    To each their own I tried it once before and had bubble issues which is not a big deal for people who cook in pots , which I do sometimes . Most of the time I cook in the micro and the bubbles drive me nuts. What I should have said was it reheats well like most plastics but the bubbles are there. Just my opinion there are other plastics out that don’t bubble at all and reheat as well for price point close to what they charge. I’m not saying it’s junk. All I’m saying is if price was all that matters like it did for me when I first started making plastics then by all means you just have to accept the characteristics of that plastic . Another point to consider is sometimes we introduce the microbubbles too by stiring to much or to hard
  17. Jig Hanging Rack For Curing

    Awesome idea. I'm stealing that one.
  18. Wanting to convert to an underspin. Help needed!

    This is the mold i'm not using anymore and wanted to modify. Figured it might make a decent light weight underspin head?
  19. Wanting to convert to an underspin. Help needed!

    Apdriver's modification is amazing, he did a mold for me the same way and it works great!!! The drop shot swivels are a little more than a crane swivel but there is zero issue with paint clogging it and keeping it from rotating, that was just a brilliant idea. He also made it use the Mustad 32831 or the EC 2831 hooks which have a longer shank and are a little heavier, I've caught a lot of fish in the fall and early winter on that head thanks to Apdriver's mod.
  20. Dead on plastix

    I have to agree. I've reheated several colors up to 5 times and no discoloration or scorching. The micro bubbles are definitely there, but I just try and stir them to the sides. Overall I'm quite pleased with it.
  21. Jig Hanging Rack For Curing

    I worked up a rack to put in my oven this weekend based off of many of your pictures/ideas. I’ll get some pictures of it tonight.
  22. Baits not smooth

    SmiithOn said that on their website. Maybe they say that to cover their backsides and to allow fast setting products to be used That is good news then for me. I was thinking of getting a 2-5gallon chamber. How long would it take to degassing silicon in these chambers with a 3CFM or a 6CFM pump in your experiences? and should it be a two stage motor? thanks guys
  23. Jig Hanging Rack For Curing

    Very nice idea, Scott.
  24. Spro little John DD blanks

    Gonna have to paint the real thing on those for now. Trying to convince them to sell them unpainted though.
  25. Wanting to convert to an underspin. Help needed!

    Yes, I did both sides. I used my drill press, drill press vise, ball and flat end mills. I can’t control my dremel enough to get the results I want. Tends to walk way more than I would like.
  26. Baits not smooth

    Exactly. A 3 cfm pump will do 3 cubic feet as fast as a 8cfm pump will do 8 cubic feet. If we were talking doing gallons at a time id be concerned. I would buy a 6cfm in a heart beat. I have 2 actually. Degassing in a 3 gallon pot with 30 minute silicone you will have plenty of time
  27. Baits not smooth

    CFM is how fast it will get to a desired Hg but all of them will get to there max Hg in time. Not sure what they mean either. As for any other theory's try and fix the ones you can control and go from there.
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