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jamie

have an idea for swimbait hinges

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I finally started working on my first swimbait after 15 years or so of making lures. I never made one because I was scared of the wear of the clear in the hinge. this might be a good idea or the worst Im no expert on swimbaits , but what if you place a bead like you use in inline spinners above the screw eye on the top hinge and place a bead on the bottom of the screw eye on the bottom hinge.I wish my camera was working so I can show you what im taking about but the bait so far moves freely and smooth. There hardly any play up or down like you would if you didnt have the beads. It seems there is no binding and moves freely with no effort.I dont know how it will swim, because i havnt sealed the bait ive only just dry fitted the bait. What are your ideas on this idea, good or bad?

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Im sorry ive should of said the hinge pin runs through thetop of the bait then through the bead then the screw eye then through the middle of the bait then through your screw eye then through the bead and out the bottom of your bait. And I know I just made it more confuseing sorry.

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I think it is a good idea. You can coat the half of the bead tuching the bait. I have used beads as bearing on my inlines and they last longer than the hook on the bait. The first post was clear as a bell. If there was enough movement on the bead and eye but not to much it might swim flat and perfect. keep us posted. Good idea.

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Jamie,

My experience, using screw eyes and hinge pins, has been that the actual wear and tear on the inside of the joints is minimal, but that having very lose and free moving joints is key. I avoid joints "sticking", which does happen occasionally on casts, by coating my lure's joints with Megastrike or some other scent, which acts as a lubricant.

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Mark the joint im talking about still has the freedom of movement left to right and also still has a little play up and down. The only thing is it seems to take out the binding of the bait on the up and down side of it. I tried looking at it both ways but without the beads the joints seemed like the bait may at times get in a bind like a leader does on occasions to the front of your muske baits on a cast, you musky guys know what im saying. Time will tell when I get time and finishthe bait. I was just trying to make a better more reliable joint for swimming.

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It think this is what he is talking about... (quote)

Yes, definately. Adding beads above and below the screw eye or twisted wire will let the segments move easier (by reducing friction) and also there will be less stress on the clearcoat. Just look at an inline spinner and you will know why.

What I am thinking about is that halves of beads could be used (if available), so semispheres which would sit at the right place, and which could be glued to the clearcoat. This way, there would be no friction between the halves of beads and the clearcoat.

What I was thinking of in the first place was using washers instead of beads. I suggested it to Diemai in his post about his first swimbait. There too, I thought that a washer could be glued somehow, even though I did not mentioned it.

But I can speak only theoretically, since I have not made a swimbait yet. And Mark Poulson who has a lot of experience in making such lures, has said that such kind of protection for the clearcoat is not necessary.

So I think that everyone has to decide for himself.

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Gotcha. Makes perfect sense now. Just needed to see a picture.

Regarding what rofish said, I was looking into the washers idea as a way to reduce friction on a wooden bait with a 3:16 lures style hinge and found that RC car enthusiasts have small teflon washers that look like they would be perfect, and inexpensive as well.

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