Question on wood hardener

[atrophius]

I have been trying to use some Minwax wood hardener on some basswood and balsa plugs. The only thing is, it doesn't look like it penetrated very well. The wood comes out looking wet, but after drying feels like the same material. Is it not supposed to change and give it a saturated look?

I have been soaking it for a day then when I take it out I dip it 6 or 7 times until it looks shiny.

Any ideas?

[mark poulson]

I found the Minwax Wood Hardener penetrates plenty if you let a bait soak for 5 minutes. After that, it's just not doing much more, except pulling hardener deeper into the wood, where it will take longer to dry.

It's not a primer, so don't expect it to give the wood a sheen.

You should use a primer to make sure your finish paint has a good bond to the bait.

I also found that it takes at least 24 hours for the wood hardener to release it's solvent. After 24 hours, I lightly sand it and put on my primer.

Before you put on the primer, hit the lure with a hair dryer to see if there is any solvent left. If there is, it will bubble off, and you should let it sit another 24 hours to competely off gas. You'll see the bubbles at the end grain. Otherwise, you'll get bubbles in your paint when you go to heat set it.

I don't use wood hardener on small balsa baits. I use the runny crazy glue, two coats, and that works really well. It dries really hard and seals the balsa for sanding. Plus it dries fast, so I can sand and prime an hour after the second coat.

[CL Rods]

I don't use wood hardener on small balsa baits. I use the runny crazy glue, two coats, and that works really well. It dries really hard and seals the balsa for sanding. Plus it dries fast, so I can sand and prime an hour after the second coat.

I have tried this, but using crazy glue (CA) is an expensive proposition for sealing, unless you have found a source that makes it affordable. If any one has an economical source for CA that wouldn't mind sharing, I'd like to know.

[mark poulson]

76gator,

You're right.

It is expensive, so I only use it on small balsa baits. And I don't do production, just repaints as they are needed, so I don't use that much glue.

I use Zap runny crazy glue that I get from the hobby store, and it last a long time. One drop covers a lot.

But make sure you use it with good ventilation. I'm not sure what they are, but the fumes from crazy glue are really hard on your sinuses. That awfull smell is trying to tell us something.

[JBlaze]

Mark is right about the fumes from super glue, ventilation is a must. It gives me one heck of a headache and really make my sinuses burn. I don't think it completely waterproofs the bait but it does make the balsa extremely hard and durable.

Check this out, it is a better buy If you want to buy in larger sized bottles.

National Balsa Co. - CA Glue and accessories

[BAM]

If looking for a cheaper CA supplier you could try here. CA Glue

He`s been very easy to deal with in the past (I haven`t ordered in a year or so).

Brian

[clamboni]

76gator,

I'm not sure what they are, but the fumes from crazy glue are really hard on your sinuses. That awfull smell is trying to tell us something.

Cyanoacrylate.

Not really harmful, but it can be an irritant to your mucus membranes in your nose, eyes, and throat. Can cause flulike symptoms after repeated exposure in some people, and in very few people can trigger asthma.

Basically, it can make you feel sick but is generally safe. In teh rare asthma cases, it can be harmful, but that's more the reaction in some people's bodies than the substance itself being harmful.

[Steel Pulse]

I find using Sys. 3 Clear Coat applied to a heated plug, via stove or microwave , soaks in fine and hardens and seals up soft woods very good.

[jameso321]

I approve this message

I find using Sys. 3 Clear Coat applied to a heated plug, via stove or microwave , soaks in fine and hardens and seals up soft woods very good.