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Hughesy

What Is The Secret?

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Like lipped cranks, there is a minimum speed at which the action occurs. It is a hydrodynamics thing that I will not bore you with. The minimum speed varies with size (I think), so a larger bait will start to swim at a slower speed.

For your 5" bait, larger just means fatter.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman
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I just play around with swimbaits so I'm no expert but I've found that a good taper from head to tail thru all segments gives the bait a good action even at slower speeds. I've never really paid attention to how slow I can reel the bait and still get that same action. I like to place the line tie under the nose just a little to give the head of the bait a little lift.

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In my swimbait experience I havent had to much of a problem getting a good S motion with my baits as long as they are s-l-o-w sinkers. with the faster sinks I put more weight in the head section to keep the bait down on the retrieve. this seems to add action due to the boyency(<----not the correct spelling i dont think) of the rear two sections. I use double screw eyes joints with no notch... I did read on here a while back about putting the V "notch" on the rear section of the bait intead of the head... this allows it to catch more water and if I remeber right the poster said this allowed a VERY slow retrieve with good action.

Hope this help a little.

Ceaser

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From my experience, loose joints are the key to slow speed swimming action.

If my lure can bend into a U shape when I hold it with the head facing down, it will swim at all speeds.

When I showed one of my 7" swimbaits to Bill Siemantel recently, the first thing he did was the U shape test. When he saw it made the full U, he said I'd got it.

I also keep the ballast toward the front as much as possible, so the tail is free swinging.

Edited by mark poulson
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