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  1. 4 points
    If I had a nickel for how many times I've seen "new lure finish" in the last 18 years........... Well lets just say I wouldnt be making $8 fishing lures
  2. 4 points
    The only thing I can add is that I read somewhere (can't remember where) that using wooden stir sticks can introduce bubbles into your epoxy when mixing. I use a metal rod bent into a shepherds stick shape and seem to have a lot lot less problems with my epoxy than a lot of guys do. Ben
  3. 3 points
    Hey guys, I am the developer of ClearSHield HD, the new finish Jim is referring to. I'm happy to answer any questions regarding the product, but I don't want to do so without the blessing of the owners of the board. I sent an email or two a few weeks ago about a board sponsorship, but never received a response. Looking forward to getting to know you guys, Best Regards, Andy Dear Axis Outdoor Company
  4. 3 points
    Exhibit is in the gallery. Until now you did not discuss how you did it. But thank you for sharing your knowledge of how it is done. I have found one thing here in all the years I have shared, you can tell them how it is done and very few will actually take the time to put in alll the hard work to do what you do. Doing this to make something of it takes a lot of time and effort. Unless you sit down and spend hours and days doing it no one will understand how hard it really is. That tray of baits took him in my opinion hours to make. Not very many people want to invest that kinda time to do it. I respect that cause I have spent the hours and days to make baits for people. And again thank you for sharing.
  5. 3 points
    Looks like a laminate to me. Clear plastic with some glitter on one side, light watermelon and a light brown on the other.
  6. 2 points
    This is being offered to distributors as a lure top coat. I was given a small sample to test and the results were very promising. Good gloss and coverage and thinner coats. Much thiner viscosity than we are used to with epoxy coatings. Without a doubt the hardest epoxy I have used. It's going to be marketed as "ClearShield-HD Lure & Fly Coating" A web site for the distributers is up and offers some information that users may be interested in. http://www.lurecoatings.com/index.html I have no financial interest in this product just letting you know to keep you eyes open, you might like to give it a try. The lures below are finished with "Clearshield - HD" Have fun, Jim P
  7. 2 points
    I haven’t used KBS either and so far have been OK with Dick Nite. It is apparently harder to store than KBS but yields a good durable “factory-like” finish and like JayBee says, it seems to penetrate acrylic paint to form a monolithic finish. I quickly flood coat it on lures with a brush and hang them to dry. It is sensitive to begin curing in the container if you contaminate it with moisture by dipping lures in it, which some report is not a problem with KBS, so I use the tap-the-can method of storing and dispensing the small amounts I coat lures with. Either MCU has a good reputation. KBS is more widely available since you can order it from several online automotive parts sites like JEGS, etc.
  8. 2 points
    not the same mold. sorry. 100% different quality .5DD's hopefully back in 2 weeks.
  9. 2 points
    I like Dick Nites better than KBS. I just finished a quart of KBS, it's good, don't get me wrong, but DN is better. DN gets harder and has a slicker feel once hardened, and seems to go on a little thinner than KBS. I also like the fact that DN penetrates into the paint and forms a monolithic( in the sense that it becomes unified with the paint) finish.
  10. 2 points
    Great work and credit for sharing the how too’s, agree with frank whilst we are all curious, few would be likely to try it!
  11. 2 points
    Says brand new & never used on bass boat central in the miscellaneous forum for 785 bucks shipped. Had 2 pots, controller, dual injector etc. Figured i post this here in case anyone was looking for something to pump out a bunch more baits. Good deal for sure.
  12. 2 points
    doubt it, i bet hes dipping tubes in a standard way. Dip the base, apply the pattern and dip the top layer, or the laminate dip etc.
  13. 2 points
    Great post JD_Mudbug, very comprehensive. I have not tried, but I suspect that an acetone soak over night would make brushes re-usable. I am very fortunate here in Indonesia; a 15g bottle of CA glue costs about US$0.10. I buy 5 bottles at a time, so many applications. The fan use is very important, those fumes are nasty. I like the 'glue the weight for testing' idea, definitely worth trying. Dave
  14. 2 points
    I have made lures up to 12 inches. I mostly make 6 to 12 inch baits that range from 2 to 7 ounces. You will have enough time to spread superglue. I smear it on a small area with the tip of the superglue bottle and use a cheap brush to spread it out. You can do a 3 to 4 inch section, then move down the bait and smear it on the next area, spread with the same brush. Overlap the sections with brush and they will blend together. I run a fan when coating a big lure to blow any fumes away. It spreads really thin so the superglue does go a long way. Wipe the tip of the bottle off with a paper towel before you cap on or you will be using pliers to get the cap off. The glue is easy to drill through. I have had to add additional weight and had no problems using a forstner bit on it. You can use tape or rubberbands to temporarily attach additional weight for testing. I have never tried temporarily gluing additional weight on, but I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work. I have tried out different lips in a lure's lip slot. I run the tape down the back off the lip onto the body and then put a piece to tape perpendicular to that on the lure's body to more securely hold it. I don't put any tape on the front of the lip. Painter's tape will last for several casts on a big bait before it starts to peel off. You can also sand off the superglue if you need to modify the shape of a lure. You will only need to re-coat the areas you have modified. I have used spar urethane and don't like the dry time and the residual smell. When I do manage to summon some patience, I use the wood hardener because it penetrates deeper into the wood. I don't know if superglue is the most cost-effective sealer. I do think it is the easiest to use and the quickest to get the bait in the water for testing. Unfortunately, on 10-14" baits you are going to use a lot of any product to seal it.
  15. 2 points
    Man that is some serious talent right there.
  16. 2 points
    Good point RPM. If it weren’t for the cost, I’d probably be using a doming UV cured polyester like AlumiUV. And moisture cured urethanes like Dick Nite and KBS Diamond Coat have storage requirements that shorten their shelf life. There’s no perfect finish in terms of low cost, ease of use, shelf life, and finished product. You just have to pick one based on your particular needs.
  17. 2 points
    So if I understand right you bought the 3oz Twinjector, now just buy another 6oz one and you can swap them out when you need more volume. I think it is easier to learn with the 3oz Twinjector and then move up. It does take a little getting use to. And funny you say won’t make two color baits anyways, but that’s what you say now. 95% of what I shoot in two colors. I am so use to it when I shoot a Single Color I still use the Twinjector.
  18. 2 points
    Eastman03 - I don't think you can slow down the cure time, but I cannot remember the need to. What I do know; is that acetone is a solvent for CA glue, useful for clean-up. I design lures. I love the engineering, the theory behind the action. I do not fish the lures as lures are not permitted on the artificial ponds that I frequent. I do test the lures on these ponds away from competition times. I get ideas, build them, then store in a bag which eventually gets lost in my busy life. My principal quarry is bawal, a very aggressive predator/scavenger. Here is a pic of a 4.5Kg (10Lb) specimen (size 10 / 44 shoe for reference). I do not want to distract from this interesting post, so any further discussion on this side issue should be done by PM. Dave
  19. 2 points
    Eastman03 - the point of CA glue (super glue) is that it dries in seconds. You can make any mods, add a few drops of glue, and you are good for the next test. CA glue is the perfect prototype tool. Dave
  20. 2 points
    Cloudiness in a color can come from a few sources but one to consider is if there is salt in those bait samples. Salt will impart cloudiness with only a minor shift in the overall color. Its always hard to tell from a photo how to go about matching a color. Looking at those images I dont see any Hi-Lite effects but the resolution on those images is low. Adding Pearl White can impart cloudiness but usually it will also impart a sparkling effect similar to glitter that is easily seen if present. Hi-Lite colors tend to show at the surface of a bait and are usually easily detected if present. Not sure of the manufacturer of those baits but something else to consider is companies like Berkley and Keitech add a proprietary blend of stinky stuff to impart scent that also affects the color. I had a custom color match for someone that sent me a Keitech Swing Impact. It had stinky stuff only in one half the bait (the back portion of a laminate) similar looking to fish meal. It wasnt easy trying to match what I call fish meal with pigments. I got as close as I could but spent the better part of a day going round and round on that one. For me when I start out trying to match a color it is always best to work in small batches. I use a baby food jar about half full of plastic ( a little less than 50g) I start with what colorants I think will get me where I need to go (experience goes along way in this department). At this point I am not concerned about measurements just getting on the right trail. Pour small "chips", let cool, and compare or evalutate the color. Here it is critical to not only evaluate the surface tone (look at the bait holding it in your hand) as well as the undertone (hold the bait up to the light and look through the bait). Another thing to consider is lighting. Fluorescent lights often in the shop will make a bait look different than taking it out into the sun and evaluating. Tweak your sample batch as needed or you can discard it if it isnt getting you there and start a new sample batch. This can go 3 or 4 iterations before I feel like I am on the right track. Its a process of elimination of what colors to use or not use. I have gone 20-25 iterations on more difficult colors. Once it is looking good I can scale up the batch size and start taking notes on measurements of glitter/pigments etc. The key to a good color match is does the surface tone and the undertone match the surface tone and undertone of the sample. Physically having a sample bait in hand is the only real way to achieve this. This is where you learn how glitter can shift a color. How salt affects transparency of a given color. How laminates colors can wrap and blend at the margins and throw you for a loop. Also dont rule out the idea of "ehh close enough" so you dont drive yourself crazy. Good luck and let us know how fare.
  21. 2 points
    I had the same problem, it's cause you used platinum cure, you want a tin cure when your master is made of plastic, you can clean it all you want still going to have the same issue, it will work with any other master. i was making a copy of of a worm I liked and that happened, the platinum reacts badly with the plastisol, think if I remember correctly it was the sulfur. So now I use Tin cure for mold making. Live and learn
  22. 2 points
    I have used the Predator s-crank. It hunts with a fast retrieve. If you don't get the same results, try a lighter belly hook, lighter topcoat. The same weight, weight distribution, lip, and shape produce the same results. They have to, or every other Boeing 747 wouldn't be capable of flight . The question is which suppliers / manufacturers will pay attention to such details. The origional S-crank is also mass produced in China.
  23. 2 points
    It looks like moisture can get into the lure through the belly hook hanger. How about trying a vacuum with an attachment on the line tie / hook hangers or leaving the lure in some uncooked rice to dry out the inside? I had a fogged-up squarebill with a transparent paint job. There was no scale foil inside. I think it had a tiny leak at the rear hook hanger. The moisture in the lure didn’t dissipate without some help. I used a small shop-vac attachment rigged up to a small rubber hose with duct tape to suck out as much moisture as I could. After that, I left the lure in a sealed Ziploc bag of rice. I forgot about the lure and found my bag of rice a week later. Then, I sealed the 2 hook hangers. It has been clear for a couple of years.
  24. 2 points
    I dont me to sound condescending. And I apologize if I do. That being said, Cant and wont are two different terms, I can promise you, It takes a whole lot of put in, before you can ever take anything out. You got to go into business planning to spend money or it just don't work out. Not just on the website purchase but in general. As a good friend told me one time, You can not sell out of a empty wagon. And that wagon does not magically fill up.
  25. 2 points
    At Rowhunter's suggestion, I'm starting a PVC thread. I use it for all my lure building, for the following reasons: It is totally waterproof, so I can shape a lure, and then test float and ballast it without any sealing. I have a 3 gallon bucket of water in my driveway that I use for test floating. It is buoyant. The Azek PVC decking is as buoyant as poplar, a hardwood I used to build my jointed swimbaits from. The Azek trimboard is even more buoyant, like medium density balsa. I can make really active shallow cranks with it. It is strong. The decking is as strong as any wood, for lure building, and the trimboard, although not as dense, is still plenty strong enough for any crank. And I use it for my smaller two piece jointed lures, too. I caught a 7lb largemouth with a PVC trimboard spybait I made that was 4" long, but only 7/16" thick, and I had drilled several 3/16" holes up from the belly for my ballast. She ate the rear hook, and the bait held up fine. Both are strong enough to hold screw eyes with just a small pilot hole. No need for any reinforcement, or setting into holes filled with epoxy. I usually use the gap filling/brush on super glue alone to set my hardware, and a lot times my bills, too. I use the accelerant (thank you Ben) dripped onto the glue to help it set quickly, once things are positioned. It machines and carves well. Although the sanding dust is nasty, because it sticks to everything, including my sinuses, PVC is easily machined and shaped with the same tools I used for wood. As with any work, sharp tools work best. I cut out my bait profile, and lip slot, with a bandsaw, and try to drill any ballast hole while the bait has the flat sides, so I can drill straight holes with my drill press. I use an oscillating belt sander with an 80 grit belt to do my major shaping, working from a centerline I put on the bait after I've sanded the bandsaw marks off. I "carve" details with a dremel sanding drum, and drill out my eyes with a multi-spur bit on a drill press. I typically sand down from 80 grit to 120 grit with a vibrator sander, and finish up with a small piece of sandpaper to get edges and details softened. Because it has no direction-oriented grain, it carves really well with sharp tool. It can be laminated into bigger lure blanks using the same PVC glue plumbers use for PVC pipe, or you can use super glue. If you use both the PVC primer and the glue, the two pieces actually melt into one solid piece. As long as the two surfaces are flat and mate, you're good to go. It paints well. I can shoot Wicked White as a base coat onto a raw PVC bait, heat set it, and never have any separation problems with my paint schemes. When I've had occasion to remove some paint to modify a bait, I've had to sand down to the PVC to get the paint off. It never peels. Occasionally, heat setting too hot can cause trapped air to bubble up under the seal coat, so I generally seal baits by rubbing crazy glue, or thinned epoxy, over them before I paint, if I want a super smooth bait. But any bubbles that do appear can be popped by the sharp tip of an exacto knife, and they lay right back down when I press them with my exacto knife handle. I've never had any baits with popped bubbles fail. And, because it is totally waterproof, I don't have to worry about nicks and scuffs from rocks and hooks. Any top coat works. I've used epoxies, urethanes, and concrete sealers, with no problems. In short, it make lure building faster and easier, and that make it even more fun, so why I use it.