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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Yeah, thanks. I realized what a stupid question that was after I thought about it, pouring it back in, if I could would be a disaster. I tried dipping today in a narrow glass and it worked pretty well using less that 3/4 of a cup. The bait colors didn't leak into it much so it should be good for a few more dips.
  2. 3 points
    The Clearasol you use to dip the baits will firm up just like the swim bait.. DO NOT pour it back in the bottle..After it cools it will be a chunk . Save it for the next time you dip . When ready to remelt cut it up into small chunks and add a little fresh to it and remelt then dip again.
  3. 3 points
    Are you tying on a treble hook? If so how big and are you trying to tie a clump of hair in one spot so you can add another color in a different area? I'm asking the last part because I normally want the hair to go around evenly unless I'm wanting to keep colors separated. For a treble hook you need to tie on the flat spots first and then pinch the hair as close as you can to the ends. Then make 2 or 3 loose wraps, just tight enough to hold the hair in place and then make another wrap but make it tight. The loose wraps will keep the hair from moving completely around the hook but "loose" is a relative term, it takes practice until you develop the feel for it. You want the wraps loose enough that the hair doesn't work around the hook but tight enough that when you make the tight wrap the previous wraps hold the hair in that spot.
  4. 3 points
    Maybe you are pulling too hard on the first wrap? I make two turns around the bucktail clump, then add tension by pulling the bobbin from under , while holding the hair. After I can let go of the hair and make harder wraps.
  5. 3 points
    I have been making plastics for a couple of years now. I just want all to know how I feel that this Forum is filled with great facts and everyone on here seems to get along great!! Thanks a bunch!!
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    I put mine in a toaster oven set at like 150-200 degrees. I only leave it in for a couple minutes and also pre-heat my molds that way to. Work awesome in the winter when the garage is in the 30s-40s.
  8. 3 points
    Also, it is a nice jig. 2 and 1/2 tabs is a full skirt for me. Your colors are nice and the hand tying is attention to detail. I like it.
  9. 3 points
    Some mold makers will do that, some won't. Looking at the various websites you will see that some designs are much more refined than others....
  10. 2 points
    The top pick is clear coated with sb clear . No technically you don’t have to clear with sb clear and it holds up ok however I do give it a coat of clear to make it hold up better . The bottom pic are dipped in plastisol . When i mix powders in with sb clear I don’t clear over it . It holds up fine. Another side note:-) you can also add Color for plastisol to sb clear to get colors sb does not make ( see second pic) those are colors I made. What I generally do when I dip baits is get the plastic to about 340 then dip . The plastic is about as thin as it will get. I also agree I don’t like super thick baits but sometimes the fish like it! :-)
  11. 2 points
    I’ve had great success with the lureworks sb coat yes it is solvent based and it does smell but it’s no worst than the cooking plastic imho. Paint and hit with a sb clear coat and no need to dip. On a side note you can also do a lot of cool looking effect with sb clear coat and the pearl powders for making soft plastics .
  12. 2 points
    I usually just start with some fluorescent yellow, and slowly add drops of fluorescent green till I get the color that I'm looking for. I don't have a formula for it exactly. I'm curious to see if some else does as well.
  13. 2 points
    Here is my version of helping hand tool for holding lures for painting. The bearing holds the pin vise and lets you turn it freely while painting, The pvc is not glued so you can move it to different positions.
  14. 2 points
    I use a paper clip bent straight with a small kink to keep the weight from sliding off,then bend the top in a hook shape to hang in my toaster oven. I prep a bunch with the clips, hold them by the top hook,then heat and dip in my powder paint and hang in oven. Have 100% success with no issues. I do the same process with all wire through lead baits. Paper clips are about $2 a box and I use them for multiple shop tasks including cleaning out hook eyes prior to baking.
  15. 2 points
    Apdriver gave you a good way to check your bobbin. Remember to check not only where it comes out but also where the thread enters the tube. What you are describing typically happens when there is a small burr but I haven't encountered that with any of my ceramic bobbins.
  16. 2 points
    You may be able to twist a Q tip on the ceramic and if it pulls at the cotton fibers it’s probably grooved. You can check the eyes on a fishing pole using the same technique.
  17. 2 points
    Im not a huge fan of Polytrans. I actually like the LifeTone better just wish you could get them in smaller bottles. as BobP said the Superhide White works great as a base coat though.
  18. 2 points
    The only Polytranspar paint I use is their Superhide White, which is the best color basecoat I have found. Contains lots of pigment to cover fast and dries quickly to a hard smooth surface. As far as colors go, I use any brand that catches my eye and haven’t had significant problems with any. I particularly like Wildlife Colors, which carries some nice flakes, pearls, etc.
  19. 2 points
    This gives me some ideas. The round-nose cutters are very expensive and lose their cutter edge, requiring servicing. The main cutter on my dup machines is a saw cutter, but this gives ridges. If I used a mill bit as a follower, I could skim off the ridges and add detail, also, the opposite positioning of the second cutter might prevent bounce, enabling a faster speed to be used. Thanks for posting Clemmy Dave
  20. 2 points
    Here's an Enforcer Frog. I made these for website pics and forgot to snip the gates before dipping. I remembered right after I dipped the third one so I just kept going with the mistake.
  21. 2 points
    This may help, though I’ve never done a walleye: https://www.mckenziesp.com/Walleye-Paint-Schedule-W1084.aspx craig
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    Exactly, Its easy to have a bunch of equipment and pay employees when your busy, But when your slow you either eat it or cut back, When you cut back people dont stick around. Then you find yourself with no help and a lot of work you can not get done.
  24. 2 points
    The ones I have were made in bulk from a sample I sent the manufacturer. They fit the diner shiner as in the pic on the Do-It website. If you have issues with them return them and I'll refund your money.
  25. 2 points
    When I’m done shooting baits for the year due to fishing and outside work I clean my molds up. I use a scrub brush with soft nylon bristles and an old toothbrush for the cavities with Dawn dish soap. I scrub the entire mold front and back, dry with a towel and then air dry. This winter they will be nice and clean ready to go.
  26. 2 points
    They are using a machine to pour their baits and stumbled on that pattern when the machine broke, they managed to duplicate it. other than that I couldn't tell you.
  27. 2 points
    Shoot me a pm with your email address and I will forward to you
  28. 2 points
    I haven't fished for a couple of months, but I am now seriously thinking of trying my idea out at the competition pond. I won't be eligible for any prizes as lures are not permitted. There are plenty of bushes and trees around, and plastic bottles that would make a fine lip/bib. I will confine my efforts to the 3 hours of the actual competition and see how it goes. Tools that I will allow myself; scissors, box cutter, hacksaw blade, pliers, drill bit and runny CA glue. Hardware; hooks, rings, solder and wire. Not sure when it will happen but I will shoot video. I am thinking a shallow crank for the job as that is my main experience. Dave
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
    I'm a HUGE fan of Enforcer molds, I love there paddle tail frog so much www.enforcerbaitmolds.com as far as cavities, I'm not sure if he offers a multiple cavity one or not but he is super easy to work with, his single is $45 plus shipping. I gave his and one from do it and his just kicks butt. Just FYI, he offers two style of paddle tail frogs, and his flat tail toads are the best on the market, I honestly believe that good luck
  31. 2 points
    Tighter clamp less injection pressure should stop flash
  32. 2 points
    If you use a waxed thread you don't have to apply anything to the thread. I use 3-4 half hitch and trim the thread and leave about an inch.
  33. 2 points
    I received my first mold today and naturally I had to give it a shot, literally. I couldn’t be happier with the results and wanted to thank you guys for sharing the tips that you have. Most especially Chris, from YouTube, if he’s an active member here. Great videos that are extremely helpful to get someone going.
  34. 2 points
    I use a propane torch. Torch a 6 oz injector for 30 seconds & it's ready to go. 10 oz I torch for 1 minute. I have been heating injectors like this for several years. I have had no O-ring problems & no tube problems.
  35. 2 points
    Those holes are programmed in the mold half. They are done with a ball end mill. No chatter just a large step over. That’s the way some of the early molds were done. I have many molds like that and most are hand pour. Not that they can’t be injected but they have some issues when doing so. On the question of saving plastic from a long Sprue you will have four short ones and when making sure they are topped off I would bet you are wasting about the same amount of plastic but wasting time keeping them full.
  36. 2 points
    Bob did confirm he made it for hand pouring and we’re working out getting a new one. Thank you everyone for the help.
  37. 2 points
    First of all I have to acknowledge 21XDC and the shoelace, I bet that actually looked pretty cool coming through the water. As for yarn, I can see it working, I've been tying with these Dragon Tails I got from Barlow's, it is basically a tough chenille which is similar to yarn and it looks awesome in the water. While I haven't seen yarn or a lot of other stuff I can tell you there is a thing called a "satin jig", crappie and panfish guys in certain parts of the country tie these up. They use satin ribbon and cut a length off and then remove the fibers which are super thin and very limp, I have tied several myself and caught crappie on them. Show us a picture of it, I would love to see how it looks.
  38. 2 points
    I have caught fish on shoelaces, mop strings and sewing thread skirts. Yarn will work just fine.
  39. 2 points
    Get you a high sided griddle and set the dual injector in it. Set the blending block on one of the edges. While you get the plastic heated it will warm the injector and block. Then set your Pyrex’s on the griddle to keep,it warm while you shoot. Even in cold weather this will keep you flowing.
  40. 2 points
    Nice video... I think any more than 2 tabs total is too much on my jigs... Wire tying with 2 wraps is so much faster for me. I tie feathered trebles with thread though.
  41. 2 points
    Depending how heavy the bodies are, you can use wire. Bend the wire in the shape of an "L" then bend a hook on the top of the "L" in order to hang on a rack. If you want you can slide your body on the wire and then put a small bend on the end to insure it doesn't slide off. I make rooster tail style bodies and I have wire Christmas Tree ornament hangers that I use to hang them on to cure.
  42. 2 points
    Incredible mold, get some great baits and the twin injector can light this thing on fire.
  43. 2 points
    You can often torque a broken lip out of the slot, just depending on what was used to glue it in there. If you think it will break the head, you can cut it out with a thin Dremel fiber reinforced cutting wheel. That will make the slot larger so install the new lip with epoxy putty to fill the extra slot space.
  44. 2 points
    Seeking out samples is some great advice either from the mold company directly, or reaching out to members that might have the mold. A few dollars for shipping and a few days will save you money and buyer’s remorse. This way you can see how the bait looks in hand, how the appendages behave, and so forth. You probably won’t get the colors you want but I would at least ask if it were possible to get a mix of light or dark colors. As for your concerns with the sand cast molds, I have a few and they pour just as good as CNC in my opinion. Yes they produce a mat finish on the bait but I don’t see fish being turned off because of it. Easily changed with a can of height temp paint and masking tape
  45. 2 points
    Best practice is to ask for bait samples, it will keep you from buying a bunch of molds you don’t use .
  46. 2 points
    Another great way to make eyes is to use a salmon egg mold. Make a laminate plate out of a aluminum can & make any color you want. You can get salmon egg molds fairly cheap. Just order the size you need & shoot away.
  47. 2 points
    After designing this new GT lure, I decided on foiling and painting it in a Nemo themed color. Hope you guys enjoy the video. Cheers!
  48. 2 points
    Mustang charges more per 1000 than Do-it. You have to buy 50k before the price becomes lower.
  49. 2 points
    I used my North American fish handbook to paint sort of a Red Breast Sunfish DT-10. Not an exact match, but I was trying to get close with the colors and proportions...and it was fun to try. I have also used pictures of fish from the internet for some patterns.
  50. 1 point
    Yes I’m tying on trebles. 4,6,8. And what you said makes perfect sense. I was holding the clump too far back and wrapping to tight on the first wrap. Thanks everyone for the help! Also I’m loving the Danville flat waxed thread. I’ll never go back to GSP.
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