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  1. 3 points
    All Createx needs to be thinned if you want the best results from your air brush is what I have found. Try to get it the consistancy of whole milk and you should be good.
  2. 3 points
    If you are still in search of the whopper plopper style baits we have a supply of them... http://www.getbitcustombaits.com/product-page/gbb-wp-jr-sr-alternative-to-whopper-plopper
  3. 3 points
    I think several would point out we are talking very different subjects. True hand pours are high end baits that were specifically crafted for texture colors and layers to meet high pressure finesse fishing conditions of typically clear water western reservoirs. They were superior quality baits and highly sought after. I never came across bad quality baits initially wasn't until later became you better make sure you knew who you were ordering from. The addition of deep water fisheries on the BASS scene and guys like Aaron Martens drops shotting for deeper fish further fueled the 'hand pour" market in the southern fisheries as it brought a tactic that most southern anglers could use to fish waters they never had before. Improvements in electronics along with ledge cranking and carolina rigging had already started open eyes years earlier. Translation it allowed bank beaters to move out to open water structure. Lure makers capitalized on the situation. What hand pours has become is not the same. Guys had no intention of creating the high quality baits they were pouring low dollar knock offs. Senkos pretty much gave lure making a make over. Senkos and traditional bubba baits/color scheme of the southern fisheries was what guys were making. Guys were looking at a poor man's equivalent to high number production allowing them to sell a bait for cheaper than the big brands and "catch'" the guy that had read about hand pours and them being an elite method for angling.
  4. 3 points
    I like that it has an air tank which avoids the air pulsing you see with small compressors. But I'd like to see its max pressure stats. I want at least 60 psi max pressure because pressure drops 15 psi on a small unit about a second after you press the trigger and I like a minimum of 45 psi sustained available when I want it. Compressors of all types are usually noisy. Is that a consideration? If not, I think the best bang for the buck is a tool compressor with at least a 6 gallon air tank (the larger the better). I use a 135 psi 6 gal Porter Cable unit that fits under my work bench. Advantages: you never have to worry about pulsing or available pressure, you can paint for a long time without the compressor airing up again, and tool compressors are less finacky and generally cheaper than airbrush compressors per volume of air provided.
  5. 3 points
    OK *************UPDATE****************** Avid stepped up this time and made it right to me... I will give them the benefit of the doubt. We all make mistakes and learn from them. They did ship the correct blades so I can finish my lures properly. I hope that since this thread was read by them, That they see some of their mistakes and try not to repeat them... Thanks AVID BASS TACKLE for making this right... I will be ordering more stuff in the near future. Mike
  6. 3 points
    Don sent me this link to bead chain that is used in trolling rigs...to steal a line from Laugh In..."Hmmm...Very Interesting"...If you get that last reference..your like me,..old!!..Nathan
  7. 3 points
    Hand pouring is one of those things that some just never can pick up. Some guys could try pouring into a 5 gallon bucket from 6 inches away and end up with more plastic on the floor somehow.
  8. 3 points
    Guess that depends on who your talking about frank. I know manufactures who care less about quality and consistancy then some resellers.
  9. 3 points
    I realize this is a very very old thread, and I doubt anyone will see this, but I thought I'd post anyhow. Ron "Bojon" Kochaver was an awesome guy, and very much like my step-father. (He and my mom were married and divorced all before I was born. They remained friends, and he was always in my life.) If you've seen the dvd showing how to do the horizontal tube dipped lures, the little girl helping him in the videos is me. I still have a signed copy myself, and I really miss that old dinosaur. He was a neat old guy, and it was really cool to stumble upon this thread and see how popular and loved he was.
  10. 2 points
    Aren't eye shadows mica powders?, if it helps I source my pearl powders from a local art store
  11. 2 points
    I have done some contact paintin where the bill/lip was covered with saran wrap. the cling wrap type. actually it worked excellent. for years we use the green/blue painters tape. it wont leave adhesive like normal masking tape.
  12. 2 points
    Lol.....Jonister. You needed a recorder. From a layman's side of this. If I don't lose, damage or a fish damages a bait for about two seasons that bait has done well and me too. I have baits older than that with these types of paint on them and to my eye these baits look similar to when I made them. If you feel like I do DDL about the life of a bait....don't worry about it. The only paint that I get frustrated about is metallic's. I'm just now messing with them a lot.
  13. 2 points
    I know that Larry Dahlberg, host of Hunt for Big Fish, does that. He really likes it. I just don't like reheating anymore then I have to.
  14. 2 points
    "Neon colors which emit a glow. Work best over a white base color such Opaque White. Fluorescent colors are NOT lightfast. The color’s fluorescence is due to the pigment being in a rapid state of decay. Fluorescent colors are not intended for permanent finishes." Yes, I see that write-up. It is unfortunate that their information is somewhat less then accurate. Neon colors do indeed emit a glow, but only when exposed directly to other light, mostly white or black light (UVa). It does not glow "in the dark". Indeed, they do work best over a white base coat. Technically, no, Fluorescent is NOT lightfast, so don't use it if it is exposed all the time. Fortunately our lures are not exposed to light all the time. They tend to set in our tackle boxes most of the time. Being lightfast means that they won't fade when exposed to light, mostly UVa light, but again, it takes time, time our lures will not be exposed to. The following link is a bit technical, but might help some. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_paint Yes, the pigment is in a "rapid state of decay", but that rapid state means it will decay in years instead of decades. I would not worry about it for our purpose. True, no Fluorescent color is intended for permanent finishes, so if you want your lure to look like a fluorescent color for your great grandkids, your out of luck. The information about Fluorescent colors is true no matter who makes it. Considering the grammatical error in Createx's write-up, I guess that even a big company can make mistakes.
  15. 2 points
    It really depends on your experience and current skill level. Plain water works really well for me unless the air is really dry or hot, then I prefer a thinner. Also, if I am going to be doing a big spray, lots of lures and time with one color, then a thinner mix that helps with tip dry is valuable to me. Buying a thinner is fast and sure, but it does not necessary work better then home brews. The problem is that not all home brews are the same. I do believe Musky Glenn said it best.
  16. 2 points
    You have the choice of using it as it comes or you can thin with water, depends on your airbrush and the result you want to achieve. It's just a lot of trial and error, you may need to do it different ways just depending on how your airbrush sprays, etc. Some of this can't be answered with a cut and dryed answer. Sometimes you just have to wade in and get your feet wet, so to speak. Good luck.
  17. 2 points
    PM me and I can help some on getting the right densities with resins. Once you get it figured out, it is very consistent. I suppose that is why injected hollow plastic become so popular, easy to reproduce. But, having said that, I still miss the wood Flatfish made by Helen from my youth, so much more action then the plastic versions made today. PS, for those that love to work with pine, I love the smell as well. I cannot make lure very fast, but sometimes the relaxation from sanding one down and just 'smelling' the work is all I need.
  18. 2 points
    I mainly hand pour baits to use but inject several also. Really tackle is just too cheap (always find stuff on clearance or stores closing) for the amount I use now to mess with making it. I injected more as fewer wanted hand poured laminates in custom colors and for every one of those would have dozens wanting junebug, zoom watermelon, etc.... baits in exact styles. Made no sense to hand pour many of the baits and depending on the style just too slow. Something like a senko no big deal and likely at one time poured faster than many I have been around injecting the bait. The fun hobby became more like stamping out widgets and at that point it started making more sense (in time investment and cost) to outsource to those with legit injection machines and try and go bigger. I had no interest in that (very likely not the ability/desire to succeed and even then that usually ins't enough) and didn't see it likely to replace my real job in regards to income, benefits, flexibility, and overall security. So many small lure companies just don't make it.
  19. 2 points
    I hand pour all my senko style baits , I use 6 -10- cavity Del Mart molds. way less plastic ( sprues & runners ) to cut baits from.. I do not have to pull the injector apart after each mold. Some guys mite put the injector in a hot pot ,so they do not have to pull them apart, but I do not have one , So then you have all that plastic from the injector that needs to be remelted with the runners... Anyway I prefer hand pouring my senkos over injecting them.. I do have 3 injectors that I use a lot also but not on senkos.. just my way ,
  20. 2 points
    And not everyone is "in business". I pour for myself as a hobbyist, so my time is my own invested only for me. I don't have to live by the saying "time is money". I want to keep it relaxing, not a competition to produce max numbers in the shortest possible time. Rick H. SE CT
  21. 2 points
    I shoot multiple molds and what I do is turn my molds so the injection ports are down on my bench. Then take two 6" C clamps and clamp them together. If my 6" clamp is too small, I grab the 8" ones. Once clamped, turn them over. Now all your injection ports are in plane at the top and easily accessed with your injector. The C clamps will leave a small mark but nothing an orbital sander won't cure if you decide to sell one. I've bought a bunch of used molds with orbital sander marks. It's just what guys do.
  22. 2 points
    I don't tune baits until I fish them. I don't sell baits but the guys I give them to know they'll need tuning before use. Basically I feel anyone that fishes a custom wood bait should know how to tune it. If it's a kid, I'll tune it before he gets it. in my experience, it doesn't matter if it's tuned before or after painting and topcoating.
  23. 2 points
    I would make a test joint with two pieces shaped like my bait's joints. See how it holds up to folding the two pieces to one side hard, like a fish would when it's trying to throw the bait. It's better to fail in the shop than in the boat.
  24. 2 points
    Many musky bait makers prefer Etex, aka Envirotex Lite, because they feel it is more impact and cold resistant than "glue" type epoxies like Devcon Two Ton. And they lay it on really thick as a topcoat. Check out Fatfingers' member submitted tutorial titled "Achieving a Perfect Finish". I don't know what type of epoxy resinart is, but it sounds like a decoupage type epoxy similar to Etex?
  25. 2 points
    if your using etex as a seal coat,any solvent primer will bite into etexwhich is alkyd base. you can use any paint afterward water,enamel, lacquer. make sure the colors are dry then topcoat with etex again for mr toothy...this is for wood baits, on plastics its different.
  26. 2 points
    Come to think of it you could even pin them in place. Just like a eye/pin hinge.
  27. 2 points
    gino. you can spray basicly any paint. lacquers,enamels,automotive urethanes. remember though. you will need to clean your airbrush right after spraying.
  28. 2 points
    years back when we had contract work for wholesale companies. we did bomber 9-a,25-a models,also luhr Jensen hot lips,power dives. the top coat clear was ,clear acrylic sprayed. for custom builds nowadays we use transtar clear..transtar automotive gives the best gloss,durability over clear acrylics....this is on plastic baits. on woods the process changes..we used to do Blakemore trouble shooters by the garbage bag ,grrr,same process.
  29. 2 points
    The photos attached include a R.I. beaver next to a run of stingers, and then one of each smallie beaver, beaver, and double wide next to the run of stingers. I hope this helps for size perspective. on the stinger on the far right I have detached all the appendages. They shoot attached and with just a little effort you can separate the tail down the middle and separate the and the side appendages. I hope this helps.
  30. 2 points
    Sure, Gino. Almost every taxidermy airbrush paint comes in either water based or lacquer based formulation and taxidermy paints come in a much wider array of colors and effects than "standards" like Createx. Taxidermy paint usually comes premixed and thinned ready to shoot. Dick Nite also sells bright lacquers for spoon painting.
  31. 2 points
    But, is it clear coated? I have several chrome baits in my tackle box and it is a metallic chrome, un-cleared. Over painting is an un-cleared lacquer. It scratches bad, but it is chrome, and I do believe chrome catches fish better. I have looked into the copper paints for conductivity, then a chrome plating process, and I have no doubt that if I had the room and could meet safety controls I could chrome plate lures. But, as my test indicate, clear coat it and it is negated. Chrome plating is an environmental disaster so it is strictly controlled in todays world. The chrome paints and "washes" that are out there are awesome, but clear it and it is destroyed. ddl, I do not disagree the lures you show are wonderful, in fact, I could use a few of those in my tackle box. But, back to the question, is it clear coated? How durable are they? I believe that this is the problem. Foils, tapes, glitters, I use them and love them, but they are not chrome once cleared. I really do believe chrome catches fish better, but, I have finally realized, that with current technology, I am not going to get it with any clear coat I can find or that is currently out there.
  32. 2 points
    I think a lot of commercial builders use lacquer paints instead of water based. Of course, changing over means basically having to relearn how to paint baits and how to protect yourself from lacquer fumes. Production building crankbaits on a large scale is a whole different world from hobby building, and it has never interested me. Too much hard work for limited gain, IMO.
  33. 2 points
    Siphon fed is what your seeking most brands sell them it all depends upon your preference just remember they take more time switching colors and cleaning so the rule here would be to have several, one for primer and then a few for the colors you plan on using also remember that they require more PSI to operate which can be a bugger when trying to do detail work so don't ditch your Talon.
  34. 2 points
    I think Venture foil no longer makes the Brite-Bak foil, which was designed for stained glass artist's. But they still make duct foil in various thicknesses, the thinnest of which works well on crankbaits. I found some on EBay. It seems equivalent to the Britt-Bak, at least I can't tell the difference. Just FYI.
  35. 2 points
    hey dale there is a member named Kasilofchrisn that posts in the wire bait section. he came up with a way of hot stamping his jigs. you should hit him up or do a search for his name and hot stamping
  36. 2 points
    You might do it with shrink wrap sleeves for lures, if any are sold that are plain silver (I don't know if there are). Most of them come printed with pretty wild saltwater color schemes. As far as regular foil tape, I don't know of any that are stretchable and can cover a whole lure without creasing. I'm using Venture adhesive duct tape which comes in various thicknesses. Some of it is thin enough that the edges disappear when burnished but it's still only good for lure sides. Not a problem since the belly and back are painted anyway.
  37. 2 points
    Dan-- Don't get me wrong, we do need to protect ourselves, especially with the '' 2 Pak'' clears etc. The respirators I have (similar or same as you quoted) are hanging on the shed wall, I never throw anything out . There a a lot of plans for ''spray booths'' See Google images) on the web, I think the main thing is to have a fan system with a sealed motor, commonly found in oil and gas heater fans, ''evaporative cooler'' fan motors are also sealed and all are readily scavanged from these appliances- another thing also in common with being sealed is they are all ''pelton fans'''(I think you all call the squirrel cage fans there) which are relatively slow revving but move quite a bit of air--- Sealed motors need to be used to stop 'flash back' when using thinners based paints--BIG Bang if you don't. Hope this is of some help. ----------------Pete
  38. 2 points
    When adding prism paper to the inside of some lures to mimic a reef runner naked paint scheme, I used a product called 5 second fix. It's one of those as seen on tv products, but it worked really well, was clear, didn't leak, and super quick. After it was set with the blacklight, I just trimmed off the extra with a knife and sanded flush. I actually found it in a Family Dollar store for $10 and it later went on sale for half price.
  39. 2 points
    literally the same exact experience i had. he went as far as to blame it on a new hire that wasn't doing their job or something like that, but he never once acted like he cared or would make it right.... in the end, i had to file a claim with paypal and wait for him to not respond to that and ultimately get my money back, but that was a month and a half after my initial order.... i agree with you that it sucks because the offerings were nice, but does you no good if you never get them! never again!
  40. 2 points
    Hey ya'll. Yesterday I went out and did a few test runs. I tied a 17# florocarbon leader to the braided line and work flawlessly. The second test was tying straight to 14# mono. I only had two instances with the mono where it wrapped around the screw eye under the blade as show in the pic in my first post. After that I had no more problems. I think the main adjustment outside of the line was slowing my retrieve down a bit which also made a difference. Thanks you all for your input and advice on getting this problem worked out. TIGHT LINES!
  41. 2 points
    Welcome to TU, Roba22. I would start by reading the pinned topic at the top of wire baits titled safety tips and techniques. Of course, there are some basic supplies you need to start like a lead pot, lead, flux, a mold or two, maybe a couple colors of powder paint, and depending on what pot you choose maybe a ladle. I would get some Frankfort Arsenal mold release too. Save you some heartache down the road. It's a great hobby, so enjoy! Ask lots of questions too.
  42. 2 points
    Yep putting to much paint at one time creates all types of issues except when intentionally done. This forum has gave me so much so I'll give one back. I like showing depth in my lure schemes, sooo.....at times I'll put on more paint than normal and pull the scale material away after I get the paint dry to a certain point. Then I lightly pat the paint down to desired look. This shows texture and depth if painted a certain way of layers. Like golds, purples, etc under silvers, whites, etc. I know this is a tad bit off of topic but the thread got me thinking about stencils and wet paint. Just a tip
  43. 2 points
    In summary, your question is like asking if we prefer redheads, blonds, or .......... and the answer is YES!
  44. 2 points
    Stealing the wife's makeup and fingernail polish............swiping the kids clay and crayons...................is there no end to the depths we will sink to just to build a bait? Ben
  45. 2 points
    Anyone can make a chrome lure. NOW show me a clear coat over it. THEN I'll believe you got something there...
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I just use a heavy duty paint mixer on an electric drill. Then I break the drum down into 5 gallon buckets. Easier to work with that way and I don't have to remix the whole drum every time I use plastic.
  48. 1 point
    How many does he want? If it is a duplicate, does he/you have any samples? Assuming he does, you can make the mold out of VacMaster 50 or HS1, you can even inject. As usual, the cost is in the original mold, but it is inexpensive compared to having a mold machined. The cost for a couple dozen would be high, but the cost goes down from their.
  49. 1 point
    You need to read this thread. Also is where to purchase embedded in here. More importantly, what size you need and some background.
  50. 1 point
    Bass Pro Shops. Give them a shot. They have the rubber grips.