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  1. 4 points
    I have looked for my phone, with the flashlight on my phone. I’m only 36...
  2. 3 points
    2.5 " tail pipe material with a plate welded on one end makes a good place to hold liquid plastic for dipping musky size tubes. The tube baits are 8" by 1.5". Spray Pam inside of pipe to help in release of plastic for clean up. I do not sell lures. I just thought this might help someone else.
  3. 3 points
    I stick to rotary tools Dave
  4. 3 points
    I say no, depending on the other features you build onto the bait. I use long hand twisted ss hook hangers and a tough epoxy undercoat on balsa baits, and have never had a bass break one. Imho, thru-wiring only gets you one thing, and that’s maybe the fish that breaks your balsa bait.
  5. 3 points
    My .02 Buy quality airbrush paint and reducer to start with and stay away from craft paint and homemade reducers. Ya they cost more but you will reduce you're learning curve greatly and won't have as many issues. The Neo has a .35 tip and won't shoot craft paint well. I like Createx and Wicked paints and get them from Coast Airbrush, they have decent prices and a lot to choose from. Youtube has vids on painting to help get you started.
  6. 3 points
    Yeah i had the same thing happen to me when i tried the super glue/ baking soda method.... get you the thinnest runniest super glue you can find and it will absorb into the baking soda much better! Night and Day@
  7. 3 points
    Don’t think about it just do it and make it better then the original
  8. 3 points
    Hmmm.... well we could also work at learning to replicating our process in wood. Corey it really boils down to what you are looking for in making baits and what type of lure maker you want to be. It isn't too difficult to reproduce a bait. Yes there will be some minor differences but with a little experience you will be able to kick them out fairly quick with many being hard pressed to find differences. One just needs to work on processes that help achieve the goal. The learning curve is different and honestly some will never be able to do it but that shouldn't stop you from trying. First and foremost stock preparation is important. I always want squared stock with parallel faces. Simply makes it easier through out the entire process. Flat side are the easiest to start with but the same process for round baits. The pictures included are from reproducing a discontinued bait but the process the same for the most part for making a bait consistently. I keep a journal of the build. The stock dimensions, bait length, width, etc.. are all added and notes taken throughout the build and failures. I cut a template out of card stock, note card, etc.. initially and add line, hook hanger, weight placement, rattles, etc.. this template is temporary and will get transferred to 1/8 plywood or Masonite at some point. A lip template also gets made. The paper templates get stored in a little pouch taped to the notebook page. The template is then used to trace the bait on properly prepared stock. Easy to drill everything in the square but if you have flat sides can easily position in vise to drill holes properly. Once you get things worked out jigs are easy to make so you can replicate it on a lot of baits. I typically start with half dozen baits. One offs aren't very useful in my opinion and a waste of ones time in regards to tool set up. You will find that doing multiples a lot faster than a series of one offs. After this I sand all the baits on an orbital spindle sander (drill press with drum attachment, dremel, or hand sanding all also work just fine). At this point you will a series of blanks to carve/shape that area all starting the same. From here on you need to think symmetry and repetition of the same task/motion. Starting out good idea to give yourself a reference line along the middle of the bait. Trace top down view on the bait and mark points to taper the nose and tail towards. You can carve, sand, use bandsaw, etc.. to rough this out. Jigs can help here also but not needed. Try and do everything in a series to build muscle memory and get the hang of it, taper the right nose side, then the left, then do every blank that way, then tail, etc... eventually you don't need to be as anal about it as you gain you eye on what needs to be done. Sand the tapers smooth (just a few passes). Helps starting out to mark reference lines for shaping bevel along back and belly of lure then take passes with your knife, chisel, or sand to the line. Do the top right side first, then the top left and keep referencing your center line, Then to the belly in the same fashion. Then go back and do the same to smaller amount along the prior bevel and down further onto the body and closer to the center line. Keep repeating until you get a rough shape of the body needed. You will end up with a little facets but all sands out very quickly. Flat sides much easier but same process for rounded baits. Sharp edge makes short work and long draw cuts can peel off and edge in just a few passes. Can shape a bait in minute once you get the hang of it. It doesn't take too long and it gets a lot easier. You can knock out a lot of blanks and make jigs to speed aspects up. I don't worry about jigs until I get everything worked out. Once that is done becomes easy to reference notes and knock some baits out. Lots of other tricks but easier to focus on the basics.
  9. 3 points
    Barlow's give the wire diameter and has the pictures of the hooks along with the sizes next to a ruler.
  10. 3 points
    https://barlowstackle.com/Mustad-32724NP-BN-Jig-Hook--P405/
  11. 3 points
    For complex shapes of a few hundred at a time, I would be looking into copy routers. Probably design and build my own. Dave
  12. 3 points
    And I would say you are pretty good about passing on the knowledge you have gained as well
  13. 3 points
    B-Rad - don't take this particular post too seriously. We all flex our ideological muscles occasionally on this site, but it is fairly meaningless. Arrive at your own conclusions. This forum is comprised of lure genius, but we rarely agree on a majority of issues. This is a good thing as you get to make your own decisions. Read, take it all in and decide for yourself. Dave
  14. 3 points
    Learning does not make you a hack at all. We all started somewhere and have all made ugly lures and failures with action. I still do at times lol. I can tell you myself and many on this forum are willing to help you learn as well. I can paint but not to the level of some here. I am more interested in the action. If you ever need help bringing one of your pencils to life ask I bet you will be met with help and no judgment Too many are heated over competition in their painting market and are forgetting that if you are in business finding out how to stand out from your competition is part of the game I am of the mindset I don’t worry about another’s hobby or business because it’s not mine to worry about I actually find these threads funny in a sick way
  15. 3 points
    The Twinjector has been around for many years. The thought put into it is not just the two together. Making one and not thinking about simple things like pins to keep the tips on while using it is priceless. Being far enough apart to use big Pyrex cups or two presto pots makes it a no brainer. But if it is hard to get past the price then save a little longer and you will be money ahead for many years to come. I still have the first one ever made.
  16. 3 points
    Lol.....and the definitely aren't easy to do cleanly either. Skeeter
  17. 3 points
    Oh it’s definitely necessary for catching fishermen and there is no doubt about it. I have stepped up my efforts with an air brush for this very reason alone
  18. 2 points
    i used to do it that way with small chisels and a razor knife.... i recently switched to wood padded vice...i have 3 nice cuts on my left thumb and pointer finger i had to seal shut with superglue thanks to this one little chisel, so to save yourself a little surprise, pain, and hopefully not needing stiches, the vice or other means is WAY WAY WAY better than with you hand...just my opinion
  19. 2 points
    https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Creeper-Wing-Sets LPO has some. LPO calls them creeper wings.
  20. 2 points
    I always thin whatever I'm shooting until it's like skim milk. I can shoot most Createx transparents straight, but I have to thin their opaques and fluorescents. I use their 4011 to thin their paint.
  21. 2 points
    First I purchased alligator clips on ebay then some 1/8" dowels squeezed the clips on the dowels, cut some pine 2" X 6" drilled holes apart for the lure I will be painting glue the dowels in and that's it. Wayne
  22. 2 points
    I use these for larger baits, 6-10 inch, don't know if they would be available to you thru HF, I take the magnifying glass off and add another alligator clip. https://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html
  23. 2 points
    I was about to say the exact same thing. I don't have any experience with the Neo. But I went the cheap route as far as paints when I started, and it was frustrating. Airbrush paints like Createx wicked, or I like Golden High flow are much better to paint right out of the bottle. And if you need to reduce, there are cheaper alternatives, but experiment after getting to learn how to paint with proper reducer. Plus a small bottle last me almost forever. Get some bright colours and experiment! Make your own quick stencils with cardboard or tape (stencils are your friend!). If the paint job is a failure (the fish wont care btw), then you can always just paint it white and start again. Lots of great youtube tutorials also. Check out Engineered Angler, DJcustombaits, marling baits, solarbaits.
  24. 2 points
    Jmho but I wouldn’t use any non-waterproof water based coating to undercoat balsa. The reason I started building baits 20 years ago was that I bought several expensive commercial balsa baits that were the “latest and greatest” and they each disintegrated after one day’s fishing. A tough waterproof undercoating goes a long way to avoiding disaster when a bait’s topcoat gets dinged.. I have to disagree with jcromerangler about a thick undercoating, per se, compromising balsa performance or buoyancy. Overall design determines performance. Buoyancy and hunting are determined by the bait’s volume versus its weight and the placement of ballast, lip angle, and line tie. If you’re “building” plastic knockoffs or store-bought wood baits you have a point but if it’s balsa from scratch, you can design around the minimal weight difference a thicker undercoating might make. If you want to see THICK undercoating, cut up a Poe’s or an old Rapala crank. Their undercoating is about 1/8” or more thick. I think they use thick undercoating to avoid hand sanding and surface prep in their industrial process.
  25. 2 points
    I found that the joint on my glide baits needed to be tighter than for my swimbaits. I also found, with help from everyone here at TU, that having the two sections fall horizontally, and at the same rate, eliminates friction in the hinge joint, so my baits glide more easily. Here's a picture:
  26. 2 points
    I’ve not seen amine blush with D2T but anything Is possible. If the “blush” is caused by very small bubbles, mix 3-4 drops of denatured alcohol into the epoxy after mixing the resin and hardener, to thin the mix and expel bubbles. To me, epoxy is half choosing a brand to get qualities you want and half using a set of techniques that will result in a good finish. We can’t see how you did it, in detail. What works for me with D2T is to measure it with syringes, mix the hell out of it, thin it with a few drops of DN, and apply it with a flat 1/4” artist brush that helps me brush on a uniform coat while breaking any bubbles.
  27. 2 points
    You have found some, what different type blades do you want?
  28. 2 points
    Check pages 142 and 143 for deep cup # 8 blades. These are .040" and there are two or more types. Did you google to find any? They are not hard to find if you look around. Good luck. Musky Shop cat. from the 2018 cat. It may be on a different page on their current cat. You can view their entire cat. on line.
  29. 2 points
    Oh, one more question I forgot to ask. In order for me to really want to make replicas of a bait I made, I would obviously want to first create the bait completely and water test it to make sure it swims just the way I want it to. But by that point the bait would already have all the hardware and lip attached as well as possibly be painted and top-coated. Other than the obvious parts of taking off the split rings and hooks, what else would you have to do to the crankbait in order to get it ready for the mold? I'm assuming you would need to clip or cut off the hook hangers and line tie? What about the lip? Would you need to sand down the top coat? Sorry for all the questions, but this has me very intrigued.
  30. 2 points
    Yup understand where you are coming from that buying new and repainting is too expensive. I was going by when you said "I always just planned to get good enough to paint some patterns that match the hatch at my lake...and buy the "expensive" blanks and replace my current collection with my custom painted blanks. " replacing your current collection with blanks custom painted, I was just saying you could always just repaint the ones you were going to replace, no extra money needed Then buy super cheap blanks to just practice and get better at painting. I know very little about blanks, only been in the game for about 3-4 months. But i choose to go with the carving and crafting from wood just as a fun hobby. I bought the cheapest blanks I could find on Amazon to practice painting.
  31. 2 points
    You can always jsut repaint the current collection of lures you have that you trust the action on. If you really like the 6th sense and rapala, jsut repaint those to match the hatch locally. Takes all the question of blank quality out of it. Just my thoughts
  32. 2 points
    @Hillbilly voodoo - I really like that learning idea. Good reply. Dave
  33. 2 points
    This was the first thing that came to mind when I read the article. Realizing all these old timers were trying to make a living and were no way going to give up trade secrets, I wondered where this craft-art-hobby would be today without places like TU. I am sure individuals here have their secrets but I am amazed at times the information that is given up freely by individuals that probably spent years themselves looking for the answers. So thanks to all for the wealth of knowledge shared. kenny
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    Got it! That looks exactly like a Strike King Wild Shiner jerkbait! For sure. https://www.fishingsupercenter.com/products/strike-king-wild-shiner-jerkbait Get rid of the old lip and make yourself a new one!
  36. 2 points
    Oh yeah been there done that with the phone & also walking around & getting pretty aggravated while looking for a tool only to end up finding it in my hand.
  37. 2 points
    I stopped using supper glue when I had hardware pull out on cedar salmon plugs. I used it successfully on many other lures in the past with smaller species If it works for you go for it. I will stick to a slow curing epoxy because it holds a superior bond without really impacting cost or time. Most of my stuff is for targeting larger species these days so I always go overkill because I fear a failure costing a exceptional fish To each their own
  38. 2 points
    Guys if missing a colorant online is all you've got, you're in good shape. I just spent 5 minutes looking for my phone.......while on my phone.
  39. 2 points
    Quality Injectors on Facebook makes up to a 20oz. injector & can custom make larger ones. Bait Plastics/Polysol is a dealer for their injectors but don't know if they carry the 20oz.
  40. 2 points
    If you go to Barlow's and LPO look at the blades and look at Worth and Lakeland catalogs. Barlow's provides blade dimensions that you can match up, most of the blades those places sell are either Worth or Lakeland and they also sell the Hildebrandt blades. As for blade cup, a shallower cup will spin at slower speeds and start spinning almost instantly. They will spin faster than a deep cup because of how easily they spin and they have less lift so the baits will run deeper. Deep cup blades spin at a slower speed and have a wider arc so they have more lift, they have more vibration because of the wider arc but if you want the bait to run deeper a shallower cup blade is better.
  41. 2 points
    Because I know I am using a slang name for the tool here is a pic
  42. 2 points
    “Must have” colours for fishing is a funny thing. I have found from fishing many different areas there is always local “must have” colours and sometimes you just need to drive 2hrs to see the opinions change lol. For example red is never a go to for me because it is the first colour in the spectrum to washout to shades of grey. I do find paying attention to the colour spectrum is effected by light being filtered out by the water is worth paying attention to. Contrast and how it creates a flicker is another. But in all honesty outside of clear shallow water fishing a lot of colour and pattern choices are fishermen shiny syndrome. If it’s a fast moving presentation this is another thing that makes patterns no more than a blur I will be %100 honest that most of my painting is to catch fishermen more than fish. Under 90% of conditions with crankbaits I could pick two contrasting colours hit the bait with a sloppy spray bomb paint job and she will fish well. I have caught lots of fish on plain sealed wood and freshly poured white resin crankbaits I actually dominated a lake trout derby fishing a prototype crankbait that was just a white resin poured blank Whatever works or brings the fishing mojo keep at it but 90% of patterns are about catching fishermen and looking cool
  43. 2 points
    For a mud puppy lure I was waiting pushing two minutes before I could remove from the mold and then it had to be floated in water as core was still liquid and bait would deform if cooled on a rack.
  44. 2 points
    Sure hundreds of molds. Only down side of RTV for large baits takes a lot longer to cool down compared to the plaster of paris (prefer durhams) from my experiences. So you have to make a lot of them which adds up for RTV silicone.
  45. 2 points
    I just started airbrushing and am using uv epoxy to top coat. I built an enclosed turner with uv lights inside that I removed from a nail drying lamp. I then lined the inside with aluminum tape for reflection. Still need to fine tune some things but works pretty good if I do say so. Thinking about adding another 4 lights. I’m getting tack free baits in about 30 minutes but I’ve been going for about an hour just in case. I try to put on lite/medium initial coat and then a second coat if needed. Just have to make sure to pop the air bubbles prior to curing. I believe the closer to the light source the faster the uv will cure. This epoxy has been great for making eyes too.
  46. 2 points
    That is a BTS mold, Bobs tackle shack, great mold btsmolds.com
  47. 2 points
    A DIY water jet might be an option. That said I have a niece who is getting a laser cutter (not a hobbie version) she is planning on trading me access for help getting it setup and learning how to use it. i'll let you know how it works. And much to my embarrassment I have yet to try a 3d printed lip
  48. 2 points
    You do know you can buy the Worth swivels direct from Worth without the split rings on don't you? They use a light size 2.5 split ring but you can add a heavy duty one yourself as the holes accommodate .035" wire. Go to LPO and get some jump rings or heavy split rings and buy the swivels without the rings, simple, and I believe Barlow's Tackle allows the option of buying the swivels without rings as well.
  49. 2 points
    Glad you can benefit from my past screw ups I will likely keep screwing up and coming up with more solutions to problems in the future building a wealth of knowledge from my stupidity
  50. 2 points
    Black grape with strawberry colorant ought to get you close to that color. That looks really close to what I get when I make blue fleck, minus the blue glitter.
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