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Showing most liked content since 10/18/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I have been using Fusion 360, MeshMixer, and 123Design, For about a year know. I transferred all of my designs over to CAD/CAM and now have quite the library that are all set-up to cut in a matter of minutes, Last pic is the design I did yesterday for the jig that I am going to use to cut the lip slot and drilling operations. The more you use the software the easier it becomes. I had no previous CAD/CAM experience before starting last fall
  2. 3 points
    To me, a craw crankbait is moving fast enough that a more or less stationary bass hits it out of reaction as it zooms into view. So, while coloring and body segments are important, the direction the craw seems to be traveling is less critical. The bass sees it as a fleeing prey item, and strikes. I have painted wiggle warts in a claws-first pattern, with red/orange claws on the bills, and used them to root along the shallow rock parallel to shore, but I think any craw colored crank would work. I think really accurate coloration is more important in baits that are moved slowly along the bottom, like jigs and creatures, and even those seem to only need to be close, not perfect. The only time I think accuracy is really important in hard baits is in slow moving baits like S wavers, where a suspended bass has time to look at it more closely, and, even then, they will hit a less-than-perfect bait because they "think" it's prey anyway.
  3. 3 points
    I don't sell chartreuse glitter just because of that reason.
  4. 3 points
    Hi Guys I just wanting to tell all u guys that if u don't have the injector heater u need to get one. This is the best thing since slice bread. I set mine when i turn the mini on when i get ready to start shooting it is ready to go no plastic set up and it works great. Ultra Molds u did a great job on this i would like to have one for my other injectors. Thanks Cub48
  5. 3 points
    Well third time's a charm. I got to thinking about the 97 cents for the filament to make the frog and it just didn't seem right. The 97 cents was the amount the printing program came up with BUT, it took 7 meters of filament to print the frog. There is 400 meters on one roll of filament (1KG) which cost $20. So, that means I could print 57 frogs on one spool. $20 divided by 57 = .35 each. Sorry for all of the screw ups. I just thought the program was right but it must use a different cost on the filament. So total cost to print the frog is definitely 35 cents.
  6. 3 points
    Is there a crack proof topcoat? Don’t think so. You basically have 3 epoxy choices. Decoupage/bar top epoxies like Envirotex Lite. Maybe a bit more flexible than others. Contains a solvent so is much thinner and cures slower than others. Usually requires multiple coats. Cheapest per volume. Glue type epoxies like Devcon Two Ton. Cures faster, goes on thicker, one coat coverage. No solvent unless you add it. Rod guide epoxies like Flexcoat. More expensive, contains some solvent but less than Envirotex, some have UV inhibitors at extra cost. Yet another epoxy is Bob Smith Industries 20 or 30 min epoxy. Not sure how to categorize it but it’s popular too. Each of these has fans. Each epoxy has idiosynchronies in how best to apply and cure it. It’s a learning process. I learned epoxy with Devcon and it’s still my choice when I want to use epoxy, not least because I’ve got it down pat and never screw it up anymore. If I were building baits in a production setting, I’d probably use either moisture cured urethane like KBS Diamond Coat or a UV cured polyester resin like Alumi-UV. Both are tougher than epoxy on a per-coating-thickness basis and are less prone to UV yellowing.
  7. 2 points
    Nope, never done LOL, but have done hardbaits. Keep the coats, usually keep them as thin as possible, close together, about 30 minutes apart, then mist them with the airbrush paint about 30 minutes after the last coat. Then you must let it dry the full 24 hours before doing the regular AB methods.
  8. 2 points
    Glad to hear it will work for base coat. Still want to try it for the finish coat. Not much odor to it either. Walmart and True Value used to carry it but have since switched to ColorMaxx, tried it, not as good as Fusion. Ace Hardware, order online for $5.99/can, pick up in store, 31 colors + clear plastic finish coat gloss. http://www.acehardware.com/search/index.jsp?view=full&kwCatId=&kw=fusion&origkw=fusion&sr=1&f=Taxonomy%2FACE%2F2568447&lmdn=Category Do It Best Hardware, order online for $5.49/can, pick up in store, 30 colors + clear plastic finish coat gloss. https://www.doitbest.com/search?utf8=✓&category_id[]=&q=krylon+fusion&button=search
  9. 2 points
    I use primarily 6061-T6 or 6061-T6511, because its the most economical aluminum that machines fairly well. 5052 is similar in price, but doesn't machine as well. 7075 machines "BETTER," but it costs a lot more. Those are all wrought alloys usually. 6061 doesn't cast with conventional methods worth a darn. I don't think 5052 or 7075 do either. There are also cast alloys that machine will. Those are great for plants that are setup to recycle. I can't speak to cost. I think 6061 is lower cost due to high production, because it is formable, machinable, and weldable. 5052 is also low cost due to higher production, because its formable, modestly machinable, very weldable, and much more corrosion resistant. Its probably one of the most popular "marine" alloys. 7075 is generally not considered weldable (except with very specialized methods), but it is highly corrosion resistant and very strong. Stronger than some steels. Wrought alloys will have some internal stresses due to their forming method. Cast alloys likely will be more homogeneous due to their forming method. I can very much see 6061 distorting when heated. Anyway, its quite likely that the OPs mold was made from Fortal or Mic-6 or some other machinable alloy the shop had on hand. I am sure different aluminum alloys will transfer heat at different rates just like other properties may differ.
  10. 2 points
    You really cannot use this in a fluid bed. It does not work right because of the different densities of the 2 types of paint in the blend. Because of the 2 different densities you also need to mix it well before every use or they will settle out. Best I can say is keep trying. It is a very picky paint that takes lots of practice.
  11. 2 points
    Here is my first soft plastic shoot. Overall pretty happy with the color. Green pumpkin and brown pumpkin mix black fleck. Do-it icraw
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    Mark: A top coat will be required if you want the paint (actually an ink) to be durable. The ink is alcohol based and most colors are transparent. Some folks have a problem with colors running under the clear. As long as you can apply a fast dry (non-alcohol based) intermediate layer you can use almost anything as a top coat. I should also add this does not replace a regular airbrush since its is not capable of the level of detail of a good airbrush. For tinting and adding scales it works well and is very inexpensive, the pens seem expensive but last a long time and are refillable. As with anything new to your system experiment before using on the final step of a labor intensive lure.
  14. 2 points
    I tried, but I kept falling over. Sorry, couldn't resist!
  15. 2 points
    I painted this lure with Faskolor Fasglitter Gold. It worked great.
  16. 2 points
    I am going to break out a big sheet of paper one night to practice. I really need to, but first I need to build a few work benches and maybe a paint booth.
  17. 2 points
    Long time no see guys. I'm alive and sorry to be anxious about me, Pete Recently I rather like to go trekking than fishing I am one of the members from TackleMaking .com. Many years ago, Erik, the owner of the site asked me to get a tutorial of lure making from my personal site, and this is how I participate in TM. I've had a pleasant time and learned a lot of things from other members. Hiro
  18. 2 points
    Another I found with the gold pearl misted.
  19. 2 points
    I've had several molds for soft plastics from different manufacturers distort from excessive heat by shooting them over & over.When this happens i usually just shoot some other molds until the others cool off & then you're good to go again for a while.Lead molds are no different according to my buddy that pours a lot of lead. Just the nature of the beast i guess when fooling with aluminium & excessive heat.
  20. 2 points
    we mic glitters in clearcoat. get a airbrush bottle add micro glitter with clear. use a large airbrush tip. put a ball bearing in bottle with clear. shake to keep glitter suspended..i spray at 40lbs....wear respirator with blower system running.
  21. 2 points
    I dust Createx pearls over a color to get a metallic effect. Usually gold.
  22. 2 points
    We machine a lot of aluminum where I work. We found that 6061 T6 is a very good aluminum to use along with great machine-ability. T6 is the temper, and it is very hard. I don't know what Shawn Collins uses, but I'm going to bet he uses 6061 T6. Do-Its standard molds are sand cast, I do not know what their alloy is. I have never had an aluminum piece of block warp. If it gets hot enough it will expand, as I've seen that in Do-It molds, but it didn't have any effect on the pouring or finished product.
  23. 2 points
    If that doesn't work, try different medias for different powder paint. Like coffee filters, Tyvek envelopes and vacuum cleaner bags. Some media breathes better than others and doesn't cause volcanoes as much.
  24. 2 points
    You must have real small salmon in Utah. That is the size of trout eggs.
  25. 2 points
    I have used the glitter polishes before. I agree, it works quite well on jigs, etc. I had some "chrome" colored fingernail polish that I tried. It looked great, but when I put any of my clears on it, it greyed. I tried it without a clear coat, and fish loved it, but it came off quick. I will try the Hard As Nails if I can find it, but I don't see it as a "production" option. Funny thing is that I was experimenting with fingernail polishes, especially the UV ones. BUT, my granddaughter saw them in my "man cave" where I was working and complained to my wife that "grandpa is weird, he has fingernail polish". My wife tossed them all away that very day. ROFLOL
  26. 2 points
    I went to Bait Junky's high temp glitter, and no more problems. http://www.shopbaitjunkys.com/High-Temp-Polyester-Glitter_c_190.html
  27. 2 points
    Didn't have much time, but dying to try out new blade bait mold. Should have taken time to get the airbrush out, but decided to paint with spray can. At least you can tell how the bait will look when you decide to paint them up.
  28. 2 points
    Yes. Brush it on as thin as you can. Some guys heat it a little but when I tried to heat it, it puddled up. Spray mold release is the best.
  29. 2 points
    If pouring use glass beads and not salt. Or both if you really want salt for taste
  30. 2 points
    I have used coated cast iron with success. Found them on ebay.
  31. 2 points
    Has anyone tried using a Nu-Wave (induction cooktop) for melting soft plastics? If so, how did it turn out? I was thinking of using mine since: 1 - I can use it in my garage, outdoors, etc to prevent ventilation issues 2 - I can set the temp very precisely to prevent burning the plastic(s) 3 - I can also stir the mixture while it is heating The only downside I can think of is that I can't use Pyrex because of the induction method of heating (requires a ferrous metal pan). I was thinking of using either a small stainless or cast iron pot. Does anyone have any experience with this type of setup? Any advice? Thanks in advance!
  32. 2 points
    Yep I do . First and foremost your container must be all steal no stainless or nothing . If a magnet won't suck up to it. tight then don't use the metal . second heat you plastic in the microwave then put it in the container . Make sure you set the heat first so all you have to do is turn it on . Third make sure the container has no grooves in the bottom or the sides where different colors can hide to contaminate a new color . Fourth You will need to stir occasionally because putting your injector in and out will change the temp inside . It will not heat your injector . !:30 am here to sleepy to think of anything else.
  33. 2 points
    You can also check out Autodesk's Fusion360. It is free as long as you are only using it as a student or a hobbyist.
  34. 2 points
    I made a few flat sided craw baits where I carved out indents for the body segments, painted “wrong way” forward. One of them is my all time best catching bait and I only use it when I really really need one. But I don’t think the look of the bait is the main attractor but rather its very staccato thump on the retrieve. As far as claws go, I’ve read that in a test with real crawfish, it was the craws with one or both claw arms removed that were eaten first. If we knew what bass will always do, it wouldn’t be much of a sporting pastime.
  35. 2 points
    I designed one for Bass Pro a few years back that swims the right way. My prototype had soft plastic claws on it but they voted those down to simplify the manufacturing process.
  36. 2 points
    I've been using the 3-D eyes from Barlow's and LPO for several seasons and have simply pressed them on firmly and went fishing. I've had only two come off. Reading through this thread, I like the idea of topcoating with Hard As Nails. Doesn't take too much time, glosses over my fingerprint and should add additional security. A magnetic tool strip came in handy as you'll see in the photos below:
  37. 2 points
    Oh man have I made that mistake! lol Buying hardener to make up for screwing up the batch, then adding too much hardener, then adding softener......until you just give up and buy an entirely new batch.
  38. 2 points
    Cost of filament to print entire frog was $.77. Flashforge Creator Pro
  39. 2 points
    Hand crafted lures are getting more and more attention nowadays. People are willing to spend the big bucks! Just look at Roman Made, Moutoukenmaru and Ginei Custom lures. They all cost a small fortune but they're always sold out within an hour of hitting the shelves. One more high-end hand crafted lure brand to be added to that list soon!
  40. 2 points
    If you seal the end grain of your raw wood it will dry more evenly when it's in storage.
  41. 2 points
    Hughesy: sweet looking frog! Jonister: Lol. I can design in CAD easier than I can carve out a lure!
  42. 2 points
    Second, Trokar Pro Swim Jig.
  43. 1 point
    I use Polytranspar Superhide white; lots of pigment, dries faster than normal to a smooth hard surface. Most airbrush paint brands include a highly pigmented white intended for color basecoating, with which you can basecoat with two coats of paint on wood lures. Is it a hassle? Maybe but necessary for most color schemes.
  44. 1 point
    If you want plans, PM me your e-mail and I will get it out to you. They are very easy to make.
  45. 1 point
    It all depends on how you plan to use them. I've run 3/4 and 3/5 combinations quite a bit but I also use a 5/7 if I want to make a wake.
  46. 1 point
    I began lure painting with Krylon paints and clears, back in the early 2000's. At that time, the clears yellowed over time. My recent experience with rattle can clear acrylics is that they work, but they need to be separated from all soft plastic baits. I'm currently using Rustoleum X2 High Gloss. It is really durable, doesn't seem to diminish the shine of metallic paints, and is easy to spray onto lures in multiple thin coats to avoid drips and runs. Spray it outside and down wind, because it has FUMES.
  47. 1 point
    I wouldn’t dream of topcoating with any brand of epoxy without a drying wheel. For D2T it takes about an hour of curing to become sag free. You can rotate it by hand until that happens or you can put it on a drying wheel and get on with your day. Many other brands of epoxy take even longer than D2T. If you are going to be in a production setting you also need to choose your epoxy brand according to how much time it allows you to brush it after mixing. That determines how many baits you can coat before mixing a new batch. For instance, Devcon will allow you about 3-4 minutes of brush time before getting too stiff to brush. For me, that’s three baits max. Envirotex Lite contains some solvent, makes a thinner mix, goes on thinner, and allows a much longer brush time (at least 10-15 minutes), but also requires several hours of rotation time to be sag free. You can Google Devcon Two Ton to find online sources. It’s sold in approx 9 oz bottle sets, two bottles totaling 9 oz. Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX) comes in slightly larger bottles and is sold in many hobby stores like McMichaels, etc. i use artist’s brushes for epoxy, flat 1/4 or 1/2” nylon bristle brushes. To clean, wipe off the excess epoxy and agitate the brush in a jar of lacquer thinner, then brush it dry on a clean cloth. Repeat until you're Happy. My brushes last several years
  48. 1 point
    If anyone is interested I got one I'm happy with and posted it on the recipe thread
  49. 1 point
    Maybe use a blue pearl powder?
  50. 1 point
    I just received the Baitmold V23. 21/2" aluminum ribbed paddle tail which is just like the keitch. Shoots good. I agree with Franks thought of local but just too much of a cost difference for me.