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  1. 4 points
    I made a flat base to hold the razors . The base slides into the slot for the shell holder on my press. It's primitive and I used a stick welder, not the best for detailed work! The puck is just attached to the top with duct tape wrapped to act like double sided tape. Lots of leverage.
  2. 2 points
    I had an issue with denting as the baits cooled for a swimbait. I tried worm oil but they came out tacky. The smallest bit of Pam worked wonders. Like, Spray it onto a Q-tip and then go over the cavity of the mold with the Q-tip. Didn't come out tacky and zero dents. I'll say it made me go from hating the stone mold to loving it.
  3. 2 points
    There are different kinds of stencils made from different materials. The easiest for me are made from frisket material, a fairly soft plastic sheet with an adhesive back covered with a peel-off paper backing, manufactured for airbrush use. It’s easy to cut with an Xacto knife. The key is that I don’t peel off the backing and stick it on the lure. I leave the backing and just hold it against the lure. Then I wipe the overspray off and flip the stencil to do the other side of the lure. This has 2 advantages. I don’t have to make matching stencils for both sides, and I can save my stencils to build up a library for use on later lures. The disadvantage is that it is harder to know where the stencil should be held unless you mark spots on them to help you register exactly where they go on the lure’s side. I’ve made dozens of stencils and have built up a library through the years. Enough that I rarely need to make a new one. A roll of frisket material is cheap and is enough to make hundreds of stencils. Is it better than a vacuum formed stencil? No. But it’s easier and faster to make and can be used on different body shapes and sizes, which suits my hobby building.
  4. 2 points
    Awhile back we had the discussion about the Federal Excise Tax and how it should be applied to sales. Based on my first and only face to face discussion with an IRS field agent who came to my workshop to look over my lure making process, she said FET was based on my sales price. Ok, I took that to mean my retail price and for many years I have been paying quarterly FET based on that information. I guess Uncle Sam got more out of me then I should have been paying. Recently someone here on TU brought up only paying FET on the wholesale price even though they sell directly retail. I questioned it based on what I knew at that time. Well I know more now and I have been wrong with what I was doing. At least it was overpaying, I'm sure if the IRS found me to be underpaying, they would have knocked on the door years ago. I hit my sister up to find out what I should be paying. Yes, she is my sister but she is also a CPA with a MBA and about 25 years of experience in the field of accounting and taxes. She did some digging and found the IRS information needed to know how to pay the FET. For manufactures who sell direct retail, the FET on those sales should be based on the constructive sale price and that is 60% of your retail price. Below is what she emailed me with links to pertinent IRS information: IRS Field directive, see “Determination of Sales Price” https://www.irs.gov/businesses/small-businesses-self-employed/field-directive-federal-excise-tax-on-the-importation-and-manufacture-of-fishing-and-archery-products Here is the tax code document regarding constructive sales price determination: https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2006-title26-vol16/pdf/CFR-2006-title26-vol16-sec48-4216b-2.pdf It has a modification at IRS Rev Ruling 81-226 to indicate that 60% is what to use when not regularly selling at wholesale. “Revenue Ruling 81-226, 1981-2 C.B. 213, modifying Revenue Ruling 80-273, 1980-2 C.B. 350, provides that the constructive sale price for computing the manufacturers excise tax imposed by § 4161(a), when the articles are sold at retail by manufacturers who do not sell like articles to wholesale distributors, is 60 percent of the actual selling price.” So now I know and don't plan to send in more FET then I'm supposed to in the future. I hope this was helpful to others on here who submit their FET to the IRS. Matt Eisenbacher
  5. 2 points
    I tried both ways and the dip method worked best leveled nicely and you could remove the excess drip if one formed I use the rod dancer on fly rods to finish the wrappings is a tough as the finish on the blank when dry but still flexible so that it doesn't chip or crack. hope that helps. good fishing
  6. 2 points
    there are these 2 coatings gives a light glossy finish doesn't yellow this one is xylene based and has quite a smell recommended to be used with good ventilation does give a thin glossy coat http://www.anglersworkshop.com/Trondak/Trondak-Perma-Gloss or there is this one that is water based urethane based gives a slight vinegar smell have tried this one on Ice jigs and worked as well as the perma gloss http://www.anglersworkshop.com/RodDancer/Threadmaster-One for mixing epoxies for perfect mix you should really use these as the resin and hardener yes are different in viscosity but need to be measured equally for a good hard finish http://www.anglersworkshop.com/Flex-Coat/Flex-Coat-Color-Coded-Syringes
  7. 2 points
    Once you make a stencil, or a series of stencils, you can reuse them on the same blank indefinitely. The transparent stencils can be put over your partially painted lure. You can then mark it with a sharpie (ultra fine point). Mistakes can be erased with acetone or hair spray. Being able to see the current paint through the plastic gives you a clear advantage (pun intended). You can get it just right before cutting it with a Dremel, Exacto, or fine scissors.
  8. 2 points
    Thanks mate they are 4 inch and 7 inch.
  9. 2 points
    Blue painter's tape works well for me and does not leave the residue behind.
  10. 1 point
    Have another question is their a brand that’s inexpensive that you might know about. I’ve seen some composite molds being sold for a very low price way cheaper than silicone molds. I’ve seen a company called moose ridge molds selling some composite molds and their super cheap and was hoping to find out what type of materials was used to make those. Thank you.
  11. 1 point
    Bob, Have you ever tested cutting any of that material with your CNC ?
  12. 1 point
    you see the difference in the weight even though it isn't a lot just a bit using a scale he syringes eliminate the difference as they are of different viscosity and still occupy the same amount of space that is why using a graduated syringes take the error out of mixing epoxy Flex coat has a couple videos on mixing the perfect batch and they recommend using syringes they make the stuff so why would you want to do it any other way. it is like a pound of sand vs a pound of feathers which one takes up more space. here is a link to Flex coat web learning center lots of good info https://flexcoat.com/learning-center Just a few more things when mixing in a cup roll the cup and hold the stir stick to the side you get like a folding action and your epoxy flows over the edge of the stir stick or spatula and drags the every thing to the side from the middle. the little cups are I get mine at the Pharmacy cheap by the 100 if you get a lot of bubbles in your mix just give it a flick of a bic lighter and I do mean just a quick kiss of flame they instantly pop
  13. 1 point
    Sounds like air pockets and not bubbles. As said either get/make a spru extender or baby sit the mold and keep topping it off as the level goes down. If it is not sucking down then the gates are too small and closing (cooling) and not allowing the plastic in the spru to be used.
  14. 1 point
    The HD additive is great and makes the baits more durable. However it is a grey paste that will cloud the color even more than salt. Glass beads is best way to get more translucent sinking baits that show color and flake well. Downside is it will scratch your injector.
  15. 1 point
    One of the easiest and best pouring molds I have ever used. Buy the rattles from fishingskirts.com as they have the cheapest price. Allen
  16. 1 point
    I had a bunch (over 250) from jigs. They're just a plain jig rattle,the smaller type not the huge type. The rattles get placed in the mold and the lead adheres and connect it to the tube head itself. Just make sure you use good clean lead and you heat the mold up to get complete pours with the rattles.
  17. 1 point
    that's a very slow fall rate.. very slow,, but , the fall rate depends on the fish that day .. make baits with different fall rates to cover all situations ,
  18. 1 point
    Flex glue is rubber. Not sure it would take anything like paint or top coat. Personally, I really like using epoxy with filler - either micro-balloons or wood dust. To me it makes the lure stronger. And it sands well - if you use the right ratio. Plus, you can make it as thick or thin as you need by changing the ratio of filler.
  19. 1 point
    Nope. Size it with a drill bit
  20. 1 point
    I've got one, it pours great!
  21. 1 point
    It depends on how much pressure you need and how much noise you can stand. I paint in the garage and use a Porter Cable oil free 135 psi compressor that has a 6 gal tank. Very loud but once it airs up, it will run an airbrush for a couple of hours before it turns on again. About $100. I also have a Badger airbrush compressor that has no tank and starts up whenever air is demanded by the airbrush. It’s too loud to use indoors and tends to pulse the air, which is not a good thing. There are quiet airbrush compressors that could be used inside without disturbing the family. They all have air tanks and they tend to be expensive. A standard tool compressor like the Porter Cable fits my needs and environment and is reasonable in cost. I want 45 psi CONSTANT psi (not PEAK psi) as a minimum. Small “on demand” compressors that don’t employ a storage tank generally drop about 15 psi quickly after the airbrush initially demands air, so I wouldn’t choose a small unit that has less than 60 psi peak pressure. Oil /oil less makes no difference to me. If oiled, use an oil trap in the air line. I hear the small California compressors have a good rep but have no experience with them.
  22. 1 point
    I have three compressors at the house (none are expensive models). A craftsman compressor 1 hp/4 gallon from the late 90's, California Air small model (0.6 HP), and then a small airbrush compressor (most expensive of the three). The airbrush compressor is my least favorite of the three but no issues spraying createx and have used it for years since it is very quiet. The Craftsman is a screamer but have painted a lot of baits with it. The California air does great but haven't used it much. About any brand will get you there boils down to where you put value at.
  23. 1 point
    + 1 to what BJ said. Mold release dries fast and dry, so it doesn't make a mess and you don't get flashing. Your tubes will slide right off. Even with 2 or 3 molds and a presto pot, you can make a serious amount of tubes. One trick a tube jedi told me that helps a lot is a BUNCH of insert rods. You can pre-spray a bunch, pull the tubes off w/ rods and just put new ones in and away you go.
  24. 1 point
    White or lite orange tube - Black paint airbrushed on - Clear dip with red glitter?
  25. 1 point
    It isn't a patent, it is a trademark or copyright that concerns names like "chatterbait" or "Erie Dearie". Do-it will not have a problem with you calling your jigs the same as they do, the problem is with a bait like the Erie spinner mold and the pony head mold, the Erie spinner is discontinued but the pony head is still in production as there has been a long standing dispute between Blakemore and Do-it. I believe those are the only molds you need to worry about, at least the only ones that I'm aware of.