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  1. 3 points
    Weather is acting up so no testing yet for my lightened spoon. It means, I'll go forward with this design. Kinda mimicked an Roach fish here. Pretty basic color scheme, just a tad of fluoriscent red, blue and green on the sides which shows depending the lighting. Next step would be obviously epoxy coating but also making the stinger setup. Not sure how much it inhibits the swimming action but we'll see. Have to test with fluorocarbon, leader wire and Kevlar thread would also be one option. I know all of these are being used in these kind of baits so just have to test which is best for so small bait as this one.
  2. 3 points
    This is why I dip my plastic cranks in clean acetone before I paint them. It reveals a new, clean plastic layer, and it clears the bills. It also allows me to paint without a primer, so I can do transparent/translucent paint schemes. The bait in the middle hasn't been dipped yet.
  3. 3 points
    You need to heat the plastic to 350 for it to fully convert. When I cook plastic, I take it to 350 and add my colorant. Then I let it cool to 320 - 330 before I add glitter and pour. Subsequent reheats don't need to go over 320 or whenever the plastic just gets pourable again.
  4. 3 points
    Hello, I am new to TU and new to lure making. I am 18 and pouring is not an option for me due to financial constraints so I have been buying unpainted jigs from fishingskirts. com and cadman and powder painting them. Its quite fun and I hope to be able to pour them myself eventually. Anyways, I wanted to show off these modified worm head jigs and see what you guys think. I tie some thread and coat it with epoxy on the upper part of the baitkeeper to allow me to tie skirts to it and not have them slide down, and still have a bait keeper that works. It really creates a nice super small finesse jig. If you want you can drill a hole in the head with an 1/8” drill bit and add a weedguard. These are 1/8 oz on a 1/0 Mustad #32786. These are an awesome smallmouth presentation. Does anyone else make ned rig style skirted jigs?
  5. 2 points
    I was looking through some bookmarks yesterday and ran across this. If I was a just starting out looking for cheap alternatives, I think I may give these guys a try. Has anybody shot any of their molds? Anybody have any or do business with them? I’d like to hear some personal experience. https://authentic-handmade.myshopify.com
  6. 2 points
    Yes I made some Baby Bass...thank you all for the comments, recipes, etc....i used Dels light watermelon , black, gold and a little silver flake...w salt....im curious to try the glass crystals and will order some soon..........client seemed to like the color and ordered 60 more.......thank you all again. ive attached a link with the picture. https://sbgi-my.sharepoint.com/:i:/g/personal/deblackshire_sbgtv_com/EX5s3NMMPe1Dqz1sN-KMDHcBVcsplv6GxzavBilh--Anyg?e=Rb2IEX
  7. 2 points
    I think that this was fun, if nothing more than to remind me of my engineering physics classes in the early 90's, when we investigated this motion. I am quite sure that the extra energy "absorbed" by the lure by towing it in the water will overwhelm the very minimal unstable motion due to the Dzhanibekov Effect. Still, the TRUE scientific method allows us, even requires us, to consider alternative interpretations to what we think we know. Thanks for the mental exercise, but I don't think I will be joining in on the development and design on this one. LOL
  8. 2 points
    You sure can. It's common practice here in Rapala's birth country. It's usually done only for concave side, but you can test it and add it to both. Easiest way is to add epoxy glue, add thick coat of glitter and smooth this whole thing with epoxy. This usually adds about 2mm on both sides. This does wonder for the spoon, and gives a fair bit of lift to it. Cheers, Jarmo from O'baits
  9. 2 points
    I like your design ideas. You are definitely on the ball with your swimbait design; balancing each segment to sink horizontal, a key factor for success. I talked about this idea many years ago. Your 'across the back' hook mounting is a novel idea. But, the wood looks strong enough to take a barrel twist eye, rather than inhibiting the hinge action with a third line. Also there is the risk of the full length line being stripped out of the slot with a decent weight fish. Still, I like it. Hoping once again, you come back with some video. I did a lot of work on swimbaits, not for myself but for research and information for publishing here on TU. I have never fished any of my swimbaits. I have a plastic bag full of various segments. You should look up my video on V-shaped joints, you may find it useful. I look forward to reading about more of your projects. You are progressive and open to sharing. Love it Here is the video link. Dave
  10. 2 points
    Barlow's https://barlowstackle.com/glass-sandblast-beads/
  11. 2 points
    You really don't need one. A few bubbles here & there isn't going to effect the baits much. If you're licensed business, I could see where you may need one, but for personal use I wouldn't worry about it.
  12. 2 points
    Hey guys, I’ve been following threads and peeking around the forum for a couple of weeks now. I finally got everything in to make my first open pour mold, which was an epic molds epic pud. I didn’t mix the plastisol up enough my first time, and I literally waited a half hour for it to set up, and never did. Just an ooey gooey mess. I finally got it down and took a picture of my first 3 successful runs and wanted to show you guys because I’m proud of it lol. All comments and criticism are welcome. Thank you everyone who have helped me so far, and all the extra information that was provided on here was great. Stay healthy everyone.
  13. 2 points
    I don’t think you need one. If you get some bubbles just let your cup sit for a minute and they will rise to top. Draw plastic from the bottom. You can pop the bubbles with a heat source. Heat gun, I pass a torch over them. Usually, fresh plastic won’t give you much trouble. Just my opinion.
  14. 2 points
    Not yet but I'll post it as soon as I'll get this one made ready. Clear coating today so I'll try to post it later this upcoming weekend. I'll also post the swimming action of the traditional model so we can compare how both of these swim and if this is an upgrade or total failure. Jarmo from O'baits
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    Your most productive colors. Me? Green pumpkin #1 watermelon #2 black #3 white#4 chartreuse #5 . the nice thing about black and white you can brighten or darken any color you want. The other nice thing is black and white are good choices for just about any water color. Green pumpkin is the #1 selling color for bass fishing last time I looked. Good for clear to stained water . Watermelon is a good clear to lightly stain water. Watermelon blue flake is my weapon of choice when the water I fish is really clear 6-10’ of clarity. Another note on color buy a color wheel and learn how to use it. With it and some basic colors you can make any color you want.
  17. 2 points
    I use Rustoleum as well, and like Mark let them dry overnight but I top coat with KBS and have zero issues with adhesion.
  18. 2 points
    I think this is a preference thing, but I used a ton of medium (.035) glitter.
  19. 2 points
    What I've done with my gliders, is always find a CoG and then back it up a bit, depending the size of the bait one to two or three millimeters. When you've done a quite few of these, you'll start to get hang of it and kinda "wing it". Coating materials that I constantly use, adds up a bit weight and are heavier than water which means that coating always, and I emphasize, ALWAYS moves CoG towards the nose. On the opposite end, when you use coating with density less than water, it moves CoG towards the back as it adds flotation of the nose more. Why? Well basically no matter what kind of glider you make, bait has more surface to be coated from mid to nose than mid to tail. So after you've done a few, you'll just wing it after initial measurement of CoG and move it millimeter on three towards nose or tail. Another thing I'd say, and this is just my opinion and depends what kind of leaders etc you use... As they usually add nose dive rather than lift the nose up, so if you manage to screw up balancing the lure, it's in my opinion, better to rather nose up than nose dive a bit when gliding. So moving CoG towards the nose just a tad is almost always better than moving towards the back. Trying to get it dead center is usually prominent of tipping nose down. Cheers, Jarmo from O'Baits
  20. 2 points
    Oops sorry! I’m still finding my way around the forum. Thanks for letting me know so I know for future reference! Thanks for the kind words everyone. Tight lines!
  21. 2 points
    Most vegetable oils will make your baits harden up like pencils.
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    It sorta depends on how complex you want to get. I usually only make a dozen baits at a time, so I often just do the vice grips method to make the loop at one end. But you can make yourself jigs to get repeatable bends. Kinda like this: It helps to get yourself a good pair of round nose pliers that are strong enough to bed thicker wire, I use anywhere from .051 to .092" wire. Knipex makes excellent tools.
  25. 2 points
    I used way more drops and it was fine. I basically put around 1 tbs in there for 8 oz of plastic to be safe lol. I've reheated several times and no yellowing. It was kind of worrying me because the stabilizer that I was using is orangish. But yeah, I've been using the yellowed/orange plastics for dark colored baits.
  26. 2 points
    My recipe as it stands 4 oz of plastic I use m and f super soft Your mileage may very. 1 table spoon salt 2 table spoons glass bead media 1 table spoon of softner formula makes a super soft stick. Durable? Nope! Do I care? Nope! good action? Yep! Hard thump when pulled on a wacky jig? Yep ! some will say different but this is what the fish told me they preffer down at my local watering hole.
  27. 2 points
    If I might I would like to interject a couple of items; the teflon pins in the jig heads are the way to go (I don’t take mine out until after the heads are baked) and you might try some floral wire for tying. It is inexpensive and easy to work with.
  28. 2 points
    First, I'm going to tell you that Smalljaw (my best on line internet friend) go way back. He and I started on TU about the same time (2006). I will also say from knowing him for so long, he is a wealth of knowledge. I have learned a lot from him over the years, and there are still things I learn to this day when I speak with him. Just a wealth of knowledge. Not to take anything away from anyone else that contributes on this forum. Tying with thread is just as good as tying with wire. The reason I asked if you hand tied, because I knew you were concerned about the skirt sliding down. I know a lot of people that just use rubber collars, and after awhile they dry rot from the sun and the skirt falls apart. That will never happen with thread or wire. I also know a lot of guys use their old braid to tie on skirts and that works well just like you do. As far as gluing the trailer onto my jigs, I do not use anything. I mainly use paca chunks or other crawfish type trailers. I do not have a really big problem with my chunks sliding down the hook shank since I have such a small jig profile with usually a 1/0 hook. On the bigger jigs, when I wire tie my skirts, I leave two longer tag ends, and feed them back into the chunk to hold it in place better and it seems to work really well. This process can be done on smaller jigs as well if you want to hold your plastics on better. I have a pic of this somewhere, when I find it I will send it to you.
  29. 2 points
    Wow for someone who is only 18 years old, you sound like a seasoned veteran. Where did you learn all of these tips you use in making your jigs? I am very impressed. Can I make a suggestion. On your rubber gloves, try to use more fitting gloves that are not so loose. Reason being is if you are using a drill in such close proximity to your fingers, the drill bit might grab the rubber glove and twist it with your finger in it possibly causing damage to your finger. Just a suggestion. Also, if your weedguard hole pocket is deep enough, you can put a teflon pin into the hole, dip it in powder paint, remove it and then bake your jig. Finally, I can't tell, but do you wire tie? If not, try it it will keep your skirts in place and they will never fall apart. On another note, I started pouring jigs about 20 years ago, because like many guys I could not get what I wanted. I was and still am a die hard Itsy Bitsy Bug jig fan from Strike King. I used there jigs for about 4 weeks and found that there weedguard and hooks were very subpar. So I happened to be talking to someone at the time (mind you this is pre-internet days)and he showed me a jig (Snootie Jig) mold which was made by Do-It molds. He built me a couple I tried them, really loved the small profile and I bought a mold, pot and hooks and that is how it all started. To this day, the Snootie jig in 1/8, 3/16 or 1/4 oz are always on one of my rods. I am a finesse jig fisherman. I rarely will throw anything heavier than a 1/4 oz. jig. Mind you I rarely fish deeper than 10 F.O.W.
  30. 2 points
    I bet the smallmouth love that jig. Great work and thanks for showing us your method and a nice jig.
  31. 2 points
    I disassemble the glue gun and thread the end where the stick goes in to screw onto the valve outlet. When I'm using the pot I have the glue gun tip plugged in and never have any issues with the plastic flowing.
  32. 2 points
    I use a propane torch to preheat my injector, suck in the plastic-shoot your mold and then put the injector back into the cup of hot plastic, push all of the plastic out of the injector & you are ready to shoot again.
  33. 2 points
    This stuff is no worse than KBS odorwise IMO, I wear a respirator for both, I do spray outside. I was aways hesitant as well, but more from a clean-up standpoint, having to use lacquer thinner to clean everything up.. Easier to work with, with the exception of dipping, shelf stable, mix 2:1 , mix only as much as you need, spray lite tack coat and then spray several heavier coats, 10 min between coats. No rotating needed and it's cheaper than KBS in the long run and you don't have to worry about it "Going off", no Bloxygen needed. Now it does cost more up front than a quart of KBS, but long term it's cheaper. I got approx 1 3/4 gal for $150, but I can use evey bit of it with no waste. I wish I hadn't wasted so much time with KBS. It's nowhere close to being as durable as D2T tho...hope this helps... I paint larger resin swimbaits BTW
  34. 2 points
    Lesson 0. Read the destructions. It says work over cookie sheet.
  35. 2 points
    I looked into the whole theory of rotation mechanics of lips, but I stopped when I reached a full A4 page of text and still hadn’t got to the point. So, I am going to dispense with the engineering explanation and just make the suggestion. It all comes down to how much you are prepared to experiment. I suggest making a prototype, a tail with a slot to soft-glue in a Perspex or polycarbonate lip. This way you can experiment with shapes. A rectangular (parallel) lip will have less rotation thus giving a higher threshold before spin. Better still; a lip narrower at the bottom will reduce the rotation further. To keep the same waggle speed you must keep the average lip width the same. Alternatively, use a double hinge so that both segments are forced to roll, this will give more resistance to roll and so more force available for waggle. Dave
  36. 2 points
    Always use a base coat like opaque white, then shoot your neon craft paint over the base coat it will cover or show up alot better than on a bare lure.
  37. 2 points
    Congrats at making it work. In my opinion having an idea and making it move is what lure making is about
  38. 2 points
    The finished product:
  39. 2 points
    As cadman suggested the Mustad 32824 is a good hook and it does fit but it is tight in a couple of cavities and really does not sit perfectly straight. You may have to modify the mold for a better fit. The mold I tried did close but it was a close fit. Another option would be the VMC 7150 but it is a smaller diameter wire so you may have seepage around the eye and where the hook exits the mold. It did fit and the mold did close. Jon Barlow
  40. 2 points
    Shot cooler that should stop the denting. I would shoot it around 320 and knock another 10° off that if it still keeps Denting you’ll find the Sweet Spot.
  41. 2 points
    I am glad you solved your problem. I have never built gliders or jerk baits, but I do know how temperamental building lures can be. Dave
  42. 2 points
    I am pleased to say that the nose dive blues have been corrected! In attempting to fix the issue, I have learned a lot from experimenting with different angles. I haven't fixed all of the other baits yet but I did fix one by adding two additional coats of epoxy more The bait has fully cured and completed. I ended up applying a total of 5 coats of etex lite; however, I took great care to make sure the epoxy wasn't too think and spread evenly. I tested after the first two seal coats, the first coat after painting and after the final two coats. During each test, the action was perfect and as desired. The bait glid from one to almost two feet in each direction and suspends on the pause for a good two and a half to three seconds before slowly sinking at an estimated foot every two seconds. Overall, the bait is extremely stable and no matter how the bait is worked it glides extremely well. Occasionally it will arc back at the end of the glide as if to check if it's being followed. Needless to say, I am very pleased. I thought I had reached the limit of effectiveness with my other glides but this bait proves that I was wrong. It's amazing how complex these baits are and how very small changes can be the difference from a bait that works perfectly or a bait that doesn't. Again, I'm truly thankful for all the help. I'm not trying to kiss ass and I'm not a sycophant I'm just extremely thankful. On a side note, I ordered some Musky Magnets from Kermit Good, and I guess he thought that my overly starstruck flatteration was sycophancy because I recieved the baits in a box that had a clearly visible buttocks on the side lol.
  43. 2 points
    We always drilled them and threaded them for the pipe thread on the spout, then cut them flush with the inside of the pot after they were threaded in. A nut would get in the way of the stirrer.
  44. 2 points
    I'll take a look to see if I have a 8/0 hook in the 32824 hook. If I do I will verify fit. This is a very good and strong hook. You won't be disappointed.
  45. 2 points
    I usually go with trial and error. I find that to be quicker. I bought some 1/4” diameter solid lead wire sinker coil off amazon which you can cut to any length. I also made some ballast weights for bigger lures by drilling a bunch of holes partially through scrap wood with 3/8” and 1/2" forstner bits. I drill the holes at varying depths. I melt some old saltwater lead sinkers in a big heavy spoon with a propane torch and pour the lead into the holes (do it outside, wear a mask, gloves, etc.). Just don’t use any hole that goes through the wood. When the lead cools, tap the wood upside down and most fall out. If the weights stick you can pry them out with a screwdriver. You can do some light filing to make the weights smooth. You end up with various length cylinder lead weights in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch diameters to use as test ballast weights that will slide right into ballast holes in a lure drilled with those bits. I seal the lure and attach test weights with rubber bands or hot glue which is easy to scrape off. If I am sure of the ballast location but not the weight, I will drill the ballast holes and then seal the lure. I can drop the weights into the ballast holes and cover it with 2 pieces of scotch tape in an ‘X’ or rubber bands. I have a tub of different length weights. I can swap out weights off different lengths for testing. In my notes/lure body templates, I will mark the weight location and size (ex. 3/8 diameter weight that is ½” long). I also weigh the weight before I seal it in the body just to have that info too. Just make easy lob casts or drag the lure through the water down the shore/along a dock. Check to make sure any tape/rubber bands are in position in between casts.
  46. 2 points
    If you receive an email that appears to be coming from Tackle Underground that is asking you to validate your account immediately, absolutely DO NOT OPEN IT OR CLICK ANY LINKS IN IT. This is a blatant scam and an attempt to get you to enter your username and password into a bogus system. I received one of these myself and have attached a screenshot of what it looked like.
  47. 2 points
    Hi Dave! Not sure if anyone has pointed this out to you but your specific gravity for envirotex lite is actually incorrect. According to the spec sheet here (https://www.eplastics.com/pdf/envirotex-lite-resin.pdf) the HARDENER has a specific gravity of 0.97 but if you scroll down to page 9 you'll see that the resin has a specific gravity of 1.15 Since these are mixed in a 1:1 ratio I would assume (maybe incorrectly) that the specific gravity would then be 1.06 when mixed together; making it more dense than water. In which case I would agree, more etex buildup near the thickest part of the lure (the head) will cause the nose to dip down. - Andy
  48. 2 points
    It certainly is not a stupid question. I had to go away and think about it for a few hours. There are four lines to consider: 1 - nose to tail, the designers line. 2 - the line that the lure floats. 3 - the technical line from the tow eye through the COF (center of forces) this point is a combination of the COG (center of gravity) which is the center of down forces and COB (center of buoyancy) the center of upward forces. 4 - the line that the lure actually swims, the most important line. All the testing done in a bucket with the lure not moving forward are called static tests. BUT, once the lure is moving, water forces start to affect the float line (1). The faster the lure travels, the more effect the water forces have. These are called dynamic forces. Essentially, the dynamic line is the most efficient path through the water, possibly close to the designers line (1). For a nose-down glider, this means that when the lure is propelled, the lure swims nicely through the water despite the ballast dragging the nose down, but as the lure speed slows, the nose starts to drop. The nose drop gives more resistance and so the lure slows faster and so on. In other words, the glide is not as long as the designer would like. The important line is the dynamic line. as a designer, if we can make the static float the same as the dynamic, then the maximum glide would be achieved. The technical line has no real bearing on things. The only thing that matters is that the COF MUST be below this line in order to stop the lure from rolling over. In other words, keep the ballast low down as possible. Dave
  49. 1 point
    GIF, I should have known. But I am sure I have tried to upload GIFs before with no success. I will try again in the future - thanks Dave
  50. 1 point
    No. Glass beads in clear plastic with white pearl powder
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