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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Just want to say thank you to each an every one of you. You have been integral in my success and advancement in this amazing hobby and I wish you and your families all the best in 2020. Tight lines, big fish, and all that you hope for in the new year!
  2. 2 points
    Just made a crawler frog bait.
  3. 2 points
    you can use a toaster oven for bending and forming lexan/polycarbonate. do not exceed 300 deg f. you can make molds out of pop or any heat resistant material. just my .02
  4. 2 points
    The joints are all lined up and moving freely. Just need to fill the cavities on the sides of the dowels and some final sanding and she’s ready to test swim and mold.
  5. 2 points
    Lakeland has a blade called a Royal blade or Royal Willow blade. I think they have more thump than a Colorado or Mag willow. https://barlowstackle.com/Royal-Willow-Spinner-Blades-P1956/
  6. 2 points
    It's probably a smart idea to start with hand pouring. Like you said, almost everything is cheaper, and you can learn how to handle plastics and pouring without spending a fortune.
  7. 2 points
    @mark poulson @JRammit Thank you both for the information! Good things learned from the both of you. Just for the heck of it I tried some 2 part automotive clear coat and that actually worked really well. I don't think I'll use it as a go to but something to keep in mind.
  8. 2 points
    Most answers to this will be guesstimates, but I think MCU is stronger than epoxy if you compare equal coating thicknesses. The problem is epoxy is typically applied in a thicker coating than MCU. I build a crankbait used for trolling for lake stripers. Devcon lasts longer on them than a single coat of Dick Nite MCU because it is much thicker and takes longer for trebles to wear through to the underlying wood. But I’m confident that an equally thick (multiple) coat of MCU would be tougher and last longer. I just don’t want the hassle of multiple MCU coats. You pay your money and take your chances. If durability and dipping (I.e., ease and speed) are more important than cost, you might consider a uv cured polyester like Alumi-UV. It is thick, very tough, and ready to fish in a few minutes.
  9. 2 points
    I can't think of any band saws that don't have dust collection so shouldn't be an issue add some padding just to absorb any vibrations and sound transfer. If using a shop vac for dust collection you can make a box to house it in that drastically reduces the sound. Fine Woodworking had plans in issue 195 on constructing a box that reduced the shop vac by 25 decibels.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    I use runny CA glue to seal my balsa baits, two coats. Then I sand, paint, and top coat with Solarez. I like the balsa because it is so light and buoyant, but it is still not as durable, even after two coats of the CA glue, so I top coat with Solarez, for additional hardness.
  12. 1 point
    Yes I have his line through 5" and 7", I'm new to pouring but I love these molds! They were exactly what I wanted
  13. 1 point
    Bass tackle has one that is similar. Not perfect but close.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Well the Wisconsin River is a fine example of the effects of tannic acid effects. That lovely brown color of the river is from the Northern tamarack swamps of your state. The tannin leaches from downed branches, trees, bark, and needles and leaves. A diluted bleach solution or the oxyclean should remove most of the stain but wouldn't be worth the trouble. I would think a magic eraser kitchen scrub pad would get most of it off the bill if indeed tannin stains. About any of the solutions for cleaning out coffee, tea, wine should work as all are tannin related issues. The bills may not be stained from tannins and may be some of the finishes sprayed on baits yellow in time under long term exposure to the elements (sanding and buffing). For the body... just spray some shellac over it and good to go.
  16. 1 point
    I'm not really big on Colorado blades except at night and for Northern Pike. The rise "up" and are tough to fish deep (at least for the impatient me!). You can "slow roll" them with a really heavy body and the discipline to move them (reel them) slow enough. I have had more success with the Indiana or big Willow blades for bass. It comes down to more thump...or more flash.
  17. 1 point
    Yep forgot about Bob.My next tube mold will be from him.
  18. 1 point
    Typically a lip allows you to fish a bait a lot slower and still get a ton of action. Also, a bait with a lip gives off a completely different feel in the water than a lipless one. To me, it's similar to fishing either a crankbait or a soft fluke: both are reaction baits but function very differently
  19. 1 point
    Mark, you are on point!! I just saw a video on a product that was a simple mix that created a silicone mold around an old Lure! It definitely looks like something I could do! You have already helped me so much
  20. 1 point
    Seems to me like you answered your own question That is the difference. You want both. That way you have what the bass want on a particular day. One day they will come to the surface and eat a wake bait. Another day they want the s-shape glide action.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Depends what I'm doing with it... I only dip 1 coat on my blade baits. 2 coats on many, 3 dips on heavy duty applications. If you need more, It's easy to dip and hang.
  23. 1 point
    Welcome back to TU, cat_in_the_hat. Right off, I have to tell you DO NOT use an alloy with zinc in it. I was told this by someone on Lee's help line who said zinc will eat through the liner of the pot and make a "hot mess." I've never had an interest in blending my own alloys and, as I've said above, I get good results from Rotometals' Lead Free Bullet Casting Alloy which is 88% bismuth/12% tin.I don't remember the source but I read that this alloy is about 85% the weight of lead.
  24. 1 point
    Doesn’t cost anything but a little time to try it. I think the createx over powder paint then baked will give inadequate results and as the powder paint sets in the oven will wash out the Createx. If it doesn’t work, you could put a powder paint base coat on whatever color you choose. Go ahead and heat set it in your oven. Createx your accent perch stripes with the airbrush and heat set those with a heat gun. The third step would be to topcoat them with a clear like KBS which can be brush applied as its self leveling and will make your other colors pop. That’s a few steps but will give excellent results and a bang up jig.
  25. 1 point
    I use the Berkley Gulp Recharge on a lot of my homemade stuff. Seems to work ok. I've had some of my homemade Senkos in it for 2 years now with no ill effects.
  26. 1 point
    Mark, some walmart stores use to have it & it wasn't trout attractant either.
  27. 1 point
    I have used TWS for other things but don't remember the finish being that smooth when dry. It might work but I know the wood glue will.
  28. 1 point
    Spike It used to have a scent called "fish stinkum" that was really close to what powerbait smells like. Not sure if they still offer it though.
  29. 1 point
    Ive always brushed my jig heads and worm weights with thinned devcon, but thats alot of work and maybe a little overkill.... so i recently got some of that UV blast seal coat, just dip it and forget it.... so far so good
  30. 1 point
    I'm following this thread, I can't seem to match it myself either
  31. 1 point
    Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but Dick's Sporting Goods has it..... https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/berkley-powerbait-attractant-18bkyubrklypwbtttlur/18bkyubrklypwbtttlur?sku=10440693&camp=CSE:DSG_92700040956665609_pla_aud-563275156923:pla-510365211012&gclid=CjwKCAiA3abwBRBqEiwAKwICA9rziFgzQAP62dcq7y0sLsriAFCaZ62PhjA5XDvITazfJq3XghRqNBoCysYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  32. 1 point
    I’m sure there are different kinds of foam. The Suddeth foam was rock hard, unlike insulating foam.
  33. 1 point
    I think it will work but needs a lot of experimentation. There was a bait company in Georgia, Suddeth, which sold expanded foam baits. They were unique designs that caught bass well. You could order a bait and specify whether you wanted it to float or suspend. I wanted to repaint one and sanded it down, which was a mistake because it exposed many open foam bubbles that were hard to refill. Suddeth went out of business years ago.
  34. 1 point
    Curt at enforcer has a 3 ' shrimp mold. He may to do it in 4' too i don't know.Worth sending a message to find out.
  35. 1 point
    Do-It's CNC Ripper mold is available in 2" and 2.5"
  36. 1 point
    Make sure your paint has had plenty of time to dry and I just use a damp warm rag nothing special. I always worry about wrecking my paint job In all honesty your issue is not the fact you used wood but how you used it. There is lots of guys who build wood musky baits successfully. I build mostly for pike and big lake trout they both trash baits. The only reason I switch from cedar to resin pouring is I can’t duplicate my designs with wood. I still carve all my originals out of wood. Wood works and has advantages action wise in my opinion but you have to take the steps needed to make it work There is other possible issues that could have went wrong with your wood bait but if you are switching material no point digging into it Still don’t know the epoxy your using and it could be that it’s not a very durable option Keep things clean and don’t rush anything curing are things to keep in mind. Lastly if you want your baits to last against big predators with teeth don’t skimp on your clear coat. This my opinion from years of learning everything the hard way where I screwed everything up, cut corners, rushed, and basically made every mistake possible lol
  37. 1 point
    Johnston Toothache lure in smallmouth pattern.
  38. 1 point
    Contact BaitJunkys, I believe he will sell you them by the pound.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point

    © Copyright ©2019 - Chad G Ardoff

  41. 1 point
    hey Anyone here got experience with aluminium glitter and how it works on liquid plastisol? Aluminium glitter should be more heat resistand then the Pet (polyester) one. Thanks
  42. 1 point
    When I post dimensions or weights, I generally post both, but it doesn't work with density. Dave
  43. 1 point
    I found them on a couple of Japanese sites for about $6.57 a pack after converting yen to dollars. Not sure if that is more expensive than what you are looking for or not but being that they are produced in Japan and have English versions of the websites you may be able to write them and set up some kind of bulk purchase. https://www.plat.co.jp/shop/catalog/product_info/language/en/products_id/26082/cPath/29_210_5101/hook/gamakatsu-treble-rb-h-1.html
  44. 1 point
    I don't think you could use that in a microwave.
  45. 1 point
    No fair! You clearly know how to paint!!! Beautiful, like all of your paint jobs.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I've found a really flat bottom face, a slow fall, and ballast rising above the mid point of the lure (a line from the line tie to the rear hook hangers) were the keys for getting my spybaits to wobble on the slow fall.
  48. 1 point
    My opinions on painting plastic lure blanks are well documented. I was even reprimanded by the TU management for upsetting paying advertisers. Reprimand is a bit strong, more of a 'please stop it' Strangely enough, people who attempt to copy famous, successful lures do not bother me in the slightest. I know that there is a lot more to copying a lure than shape alone. Most will fail but they will learn something about lures on the journey. In fact, I would recommend trying to copy a favourite lure in the learning process as many experienced builders also suggest. Those who can copy a commercial successfully have all the skills to produce their own masterpieces. I often wonder why they bother, but I guess it is a challenge. I was even considering writing a thread dedicated to reverse engineering a lure without destructive examination even though I have never done it before. I never view the gallery. I am not really interested in the current trends. I do not want my design ideas to be affected by what others are doing. Basically, body shape is a covering over the internal structure although it does have some functionality. Because I am not commercially competing I see no reason for secrets. I even received a couple of angry PMs for revealing design secrets that they had been cashing in on for years. However they need not worry, many read the articles but very few try the ideas out. The few that do are only producing lures for personal use. I probably got a bit off subject with this post, but there you go, I am rambling Dave
  49. 1 point
    It's quite easy to do it What for I can use density data then?
  50. 1 point
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