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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/14/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I have tried many of the various manufacturers chrome paint and have used the Alsa MirraChrome. It is expensive and it does work if the directions are followed to a T and you use their clear coat(also expensive), It must be on a glossy black base or the effects are muted. I prefer good old aluminum foil tape. As you can see there are many ways to manipulate the foil to create interesting patterns.
  2. 3 points
    If you using clean lead you shouldn't have much of a problem. Lead poisoning comes from ingestion most of the time and the reason is simple. Lead does not produce fumes or vapor below 1200 degrees, if you have any smell it is usually impurities and good ventilation is sufficient to carry out the fumes if you are using good lead. I get most of my lead from Rotometals , 99% pure and 3% -5% antimonial and with 2 windows open and a fan blowing in between to create good air circulation there are no problems. I had a serious illness and since then I have to have my blood checked on a regular basis and one thing I have the doctor check for is the lead levels in my blood, in more than 20 years of pouring I can say that I'm fine but, if you are melting down wheel weights or old lead pipes and other forms of scrap lead well then I'd be outside or I'd have a hood and exhaust fan. It also pays to be cautious and a good exhaust fan and hood is something I think is beneficial if pouring indoors but if you aren't pouring for 6 to 8 hours a day a shop that isn't confined with good ventilation will work as long as you are using clean lead.
  3. 2 points
    The limitations with glow paint are twofold. Their brightness is determined by the size and number of the strontium aluminate particles they contain. More and bigger is better but more and bigger won’t shoot through an airbrush so paint manufacturers have to compromise. There are also big differences in how long and how strongly different colors of glow paint will glow. I don’t remember the differences except that greenish white is the longest lasting. I chose Glonation brand paint that comes in an acrylic gel with large glow particles for coating jigging spoons and a couple of rattle baits. It works great but has to be brushed on. I topcoated it with MCU. In total darkness, I can literally read a newspaper from its glow. Player’s choice, but I’d check whatever paint you try for glow intensity after application.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    To my way of thinking, Vodkaman's video should go into the Forum "Knowledge Based", "Member submitted tutorials", "Hardbait how to" Good job Vodkaman. Your bare bait with reference lines help watch the action. The difference appears more subtle than I would have thought. I did something similar once but instead of making 4 baits, I made one bait with a lip slot. Then I made four lips of different shapes for that lure. I used one or more layers of clear packaging tape over the part of the lip that slid into the slot to keep it in there firmly. In that way I was trying to reduce variables with the bait and only observe variables with the lip only. I found the differences to be subtle as well.
  6. 2 points
    I have E-tex that is 7 years old. The hardener has ambered a bit more but still hardens clear. The only problem that has happened is crystals in the resin but warming it up dissolves them. Still works like when i bought it, no complaints
  7. 2 points
    I received my 4.5 Weed beater frog mold today . Haven't got to fish with it yet. But am very happy with the way it looks, and the easy way it injects, no dents.
  8. 2 points
    Just remember, if you screw it up don't panic. JB weld works really well on Do-It molds, and once it fully dries/cures it can be machined again.
  9. 2 points
    My 4.5" Weed Beater was delivered this afternoon and I molded up 4 baits from the new MF Super Float plastic and ran down to the docks on the Mississippi River to give it a try. Very impressed! I was able to fish it very slow...even on just Duckweed.! The slot on the top protected the hook point well and gave me a nice place to skin hook it. I landed 2 nice fat largemouth just standing on the docks! Then it happened...the reason why I wanted this bait instead of the standard plastic (Spro) type frog....a darn 2' long (or so) Northern Pike hit it and in a fraction of a second it was cut off! But I only lost a hook and an injection bait so I cussed half as much as I usually do! I also caught a nice smallmouth playing around with the bait as a "creature bait". The bait looks REALLY good as a creature bait because those tails really have some nice action as it sinks. I'm going to take the boat out tomorrow and see how it does as a frog....with a small bullet sinker on the nose. We do well here by dragging a swim jig across the weeds and then letting it drop off the edge and sink along the edge of the weeds. This bait should be a killer at that! The bait injected very nicely. A large spru to feed the bait plastic as it shrank and I didn't notice any denting. The bait had enough mass that I was able to throw it on my heavy frog rod, but still I was able to fish it very slow in the slop. A+
  10. 2 points
    No round head but there is a Sparkie jig mold that that hook should work in. The 1/16oz cavity takes a #4 and it will also take a #2, I use the VMC 7161 which is a hair heavier than the Owner 5317.
  11. 2 points
    If I used anything as an intermediary it would be Createx Transparent base, You can heat set it in seconds, reducing greatly any chemical interaction.
  12. 2 points
    In my experience, how long epoxy lasts depends mainly on how it’s stored. You can tell it’s degrading if the hardener gets darker. Since the epoxy company doesn’t know how it will be stored, the one year is just a rough guesstimate. After it begins to degrade, it will usually still harden but will cure darker and may take longer to harden. I store mine inside where the temp is fairly constant and it often lasts two or more years before the hardener begins to darken.
  13. 2 points
    Never tried in softner . The only problem I could for see is the balloons are going to want to float on top of softnerlike they do when you heat them up in plastic. To be honest with you when I use them I’ll put them right under my vent hood and wear a respirator just in case if you’re very careful with them you should be ok. I have never had a problem but I have a large vent capable of moving a lot of air.it will pull the air out of my bait shop in a couple of minutes. So I don’t worry so much about it getting air born. Ps anything you can do to limit your exposure to it is a good thing.
  14. 2 points
    Smoke/black over white light green pumpkin over white white with pearl white in it
  15. 2 points
    Dont confuse Pearls with Hilites. Totally different.
  16. 2 points
    I did a white base. Pearl white belly Pearl Gold sides. Wrap with a used drier sheet (first time I tried this technique) Spray Brown over sides and back Spray face and back brown Lightly dust pearl gold over back and face I sprayed eye pearl white
  17. 2 points
    It may not be the lure, but the nut that holds the handle on the rod.
  18. 1 point
    You will love his heartthrob grub . I have few of his molds. They all shoot great
  19. 1 point
    I tightly wrap a rubber band around the joint to prevent paint intrusion on a bait with a joint that can’t be disassembled before painting or on one that I can’t install the joint mechanism after painting and clearcoating. The bands also hold the bait rigid while painting it. But I don’t trust rubber bands to resist dipped clearcoat intrusion. I brush the clearcoat on.
  20. 1 point
    The 3886 is the best in my opinion... But Eagle Claw now makes the distributers now buy 25,000 per size instead of 1000... You will see this hook disappear from most places and get deleted. That's why I recently put in a lifetime order... LOL And may get more.
  21. 1 point
    Really nice work , lots of fish coming your way !
  22. 1 point
    Great job! I'm jealous (again).
  23. 1 point
    Welcome! Honestly, that's a loaded question. Cheapest is not always (in fact, rarely) the best, and what works for some guys might not work for others. Lots of great brands out there now and hopefully other members will chime in with their opinions. Personally, I used MF almost exclusively. Again, definitely not the cheapest, but it worked for me. Very consistent plastic. There are newer brands that I never got a chance to try. Good luck!
  24. 1 point
    One of our local high school fishing clubs holds a fishing flea market every year. It's become so popular, they now have expanded to include the cafeteria across the hall. I have the contact info for the teacher who runs it, if you're interested in how something like that is coordinated.
  25. 1 point
    SR9, excellent question. Normally I would make the answer to this question overly complex, so this time I will not mention vortices (darn, I just did!). So, as long as you just accept that the lip creates side forces, that will suffice. The width of the lip controls the speed of the action or side to side motion. The wider the lip, the slower the speed. The forces on the lip also cause roll. The wider the lip, the more roll is generated. There comes a point when the roll becomes too much and the bait will spiral or swim on its side and become unstable. The length of the lip determines the power of the forces. These forces are balanced by the water forces on the body of the lure. A good analogy is a see-saw, were the balance point is the tow eye. On one side you have the lip forces, the other the body forces. If the lip forces are too strong, then the lip is pushed down. It will reach a point were it gets too far down and it will break out to the side and spiral. This is why on deep diving lips, the tow eye is usually on the lip itself, so that part of the lip force is above the eye, helping to balance with the body. Fine adjustment of this position will get you the maximum depth. As for the various shapes and patterns of lips, I can