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Showing most liked content since 12/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    smalljaw, Were you not able to get it to fit at all or were you just not happy that it did not sit perfectly straight? The 604's I tried worked but theydid not sit perfectly straight. I have to admit that it was a very tight fit but I would have said they work too. The VMC 7150 also fits in the mold but you have to use a 4/0 hook in all but the largest cavity where a 5/0 will fit. JB
  2. 3 points
    Hawg Hooker, PM me your contact info and we'll figure out what you've got and how to make it right. Excluding Hildebrandt, we don't carry any willow blades that run $66/50 count. -Matt Barlow
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    Barlow's is about 50 minutes from my house, which makes it "local" in the DFW area. I'm not allowed to go there without adult supervision, unless I hand over the plastic to my wife and use cash. It's REAL easy to drop $200 and walk out with a small sack. Once I've made the drive to Barlow's then Cabela's is only another few minutes down the road. I'm not allowed there without adult supervision either. My wife caught on to my primer stockpiling scheme and put an end to that.
  5. 3 points
    When using a hair brush for finish epoxy try this............super glue the hair by the metal holder , prevents hair from coming out when doing a finish epoxy on lures, it worked great on my musky lures. Wayne
  6. 2 points
    You can use a Hagen's tool for "R" bends but you need to adjust the stops and figure out the angles on your own. I use the little blue bend to make "R" bends because that is what that that bender does. The only reason I don't use my Hagen's to do "R" bends is because I use it for other things and it would mean I have to change to set up around and then tweak it to get back to where I had it set. Having the little blue bender makes it easy to just crank out spinnerbait forms fast and easy.
  7. 2 points
    One thing, leave a few lures on the table without hooks once in their hands they might get a better feel of the lure, than its up to you to make the sale. Wayne
  8. 2 points
    You can also make a spacer to block off a few cavities & just shoot a couple of worms at a time.
  9. 2 points
    First the floods and now this....they got kicked while they were down never had a negative experience from them. I had to find another company forplastic. But that's hardly important I guess, I have them all in my thoughts and wish them only good. Cancer sucks.
  10. 2 points
    I have dealt with Barlows for years, and have always been treated fairly. They have great customer service.
  11. 2 points
    Matt and Jon own the place, I think. Nice guys that have earned my loyalty by their participation here and competitive pricing. Great customer service, IMO.
  12. 2 points
    My girlfriends grandson (8) stayed the weekend with us. He doesn't have a male figure in his life as he lives with his mother and 2 sisters, so tag I'm it. Well yesterday we spent the day prepping, painting, and clearing his first bait. I am out of any new blanks so I picked up a 110 jerk that has been painted and scrubbed off probably 4-5 times. I explained how the airbrush worked, basically telling him press down, pull back and sweep. He picked his colors, and painted every step by himself, even did the etex by himself. We only had time to get one coat on and dried before he had to go home today but he did good. When it was all said and done, he looks at me and says, "I know it will take a lot of practice to get as good as you, and this terrible. But so awesome ." It looked like a tie dyed mess that Cheech and Chong would stare at for hours. I loved it. Just a cool weekend.
  13. 2 points
    A simple, cheap technique to finish lead jigs. Not perfect, but good enough to catch fish. Not quick because each layer of etex requires 12 hours to cure. First, I prime lead jigs with a layer of etex I add another layer of etex mixed with titanium dioxide powder to get a bright white jig. Etex in the curing process, gradually hardens and gets sticky, Depending upon temperature and how much etex is applied, at about 7 hours +++ the etex will be sticky but not come off the jig if you touch it (with your finger or some other object) You can use etex applied to scrap jig for this test. At this point, apply the nail foil, rubbing gently with cloth, and then pull off the cover plastic. The foil is stuck on the jig. For some reasons, I only get about 90% transfer of foil on the jig (not perfect) but this is good enough for me. Wait a couple hours, then add a protective coat of etex. You can also add dots, eyes, stripes, colored etex at this point. Dots or Stripes- I use oil based sharpies (regular sharpies will bleed with etex because they are alcohol based). You can also use gel ink pens with med or thick point. Colored Etex - I mixed neon micas with etex and brush on the jig. Glow powder can also be mixed with etex. Nail foil doesn't come neon. Sources: Art nail transfer foil I get thru aliexpress.com. comes 4 cm x120M (or150M) for $5-$10. This comes out to 1 cents per foot. Comes holographic, solid colors, and transparent. Etex I get at Michaels http://www.michaels.com/envirotex-lite-pour-on-high-gloss-finish/M10178984.html. Get the 40-50% coupons. Horsehair brush I get at harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-in-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-61880.html. I reuse them over and over, clean with rubbing alcohol and stored in jar with an inch of alcohol. Neon Micas I get at tkbtrading https://tkbtrading.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=neon**.Colored mica powders including fluorescent. Used in makeup and soap making. They are powders, suspended not dissolved in etex. This make brushes easy to clean Titanium dioxide get at crafts or sculpture store like Douglas Sturgis. This is the bright white powder. Tips: I mix etex in 2" wide plastic cap which I use over and over. It is important to get exact 1:1 ratio and mix the 2 parts thoroughly. I weight the etex on a super accurate gram scale ... so I can mix as little as a few grams to coat a few jigs. I don't bother to clean the cap, when the etex hardens, I just do a new mix on top. Thanks to Gliders in hardbaits forum, check out Foiling on E-Tex http://www.tackleunderground.com/ommunity/topic/30355-foiling-on-e-tex/. His hardbaits are works of art and show what is possible with this foil technique. I can brush over foil with neon micas to color the foil pink, blue, red, purple, yellow, etc, thin enough for the foil to show thru . Cheap - cost of foil, micas and etex on a lead jigs comes out to less than 10 cents per jigs. If all foil is not sticking, I add another layer of etex and do it again right over. The foil is so thin it doesn't change anything. These jigs are used in 30-100 foot depths low light and murky water conditions, where I believe the holographic flash, neon accents are important. Over 100 feet, glow becomes more important. To get near perfect quality, probably need to polish the lead jig and remove any imperfections, fill any divots. Then add multiple layers of etex. For me the quality is good enough for me, I'm fishing in murky waters and the fish don't care about perfection, I'm bouncing them on the bottom and losing them to snags. .
  14. 2 points
    Ditto on the locking head. Also, get one large enough for your mold shots.
  15. 2 points
    There's 3 people who make money at a tackle show. IT AINT YOU It is however.... The Hall The Show promoter ...and the IRS.......... Tackle shows are a complete and utter waste of time and money. Glorified flea markets in most cases.
  16. 2 points
    There’s definitely some “art” required in using epoxy while moisture cured urethane (MCU) and UV cured polyester are simpler options but more expensive. For most guys the choice is determined by what they try and then become comfortable with using. All of them give you durable, attractive baits. I use epoxy or MCU and want to try Alumi-UV at some point. For wood baits, I often use epoxy. For refinishing plastic baits, MCU gives what I consider a more “factory-like” result. But if Alumi-UV has good clarity, it will be worth the expense to have a clearcoat you can dip into and cure hard in just a few minutes.
  17. 2 points
    My wife is a red head too! After 35 years, she is finally adopting my sense of humor. Now I can see how unfunny I really am. So I guess the joke's on me.
  18. 2 points
    Ray, I bought the ES Ripper mold from Barlow's for $32+-. It has three cavities and pours great and catches fish! https://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Essentials-Ripper-Mold-35-P3773.aspx One cavity for $68, or three cavities for $32?
  19. 2 points
    There are all kinds of clearcoats used on crankbaits. Epoxy is still one of the most popular and yellowing is not a big issue if it is measured and mixed well. I’ve had epoxied baits 4-5 yrs old without noticeable yellowing. That said, there are other options: moisture cured urethanes like KBS Diamond Coat, UV cured polyesters like Alumi-UV. All have advantages and disadvantages. You should use the search feature to explore their attributes, application techniques, pros and cons.
  20. 2 points
    Don't listen to woodieb8 dinger, your not doomed getting into making wood musky /pike lures. Its an easy and relaxing hobby ,and think of the thousands of pounds you could save. Nor does it require 70 hours a week, 40-50 hours per week is fine to start with for first year or two !
  21. 2 points
    Lacquer thinner has Mel as one of the ingredients so both will be hazardous. Both should be used with caution.
  22. 2 points
    never gro up. its a trap.
  23. 2 points
    Wow, Swimbait, you ask some deep questions! LOL Bob has explained why I think most like ties are vertical versus horizontal, but not all. When I first saw the River2Sea S-Waver with the horizontal line tie I was surprised because it is made in two halves like most commercial baits. But, for that swimbait, I believe he hit the nail on the head with he mentioned For their bait, it seldom needs to have any side to side adjustment but up or down adjustment is a common issue for them, especially once slammed into rocks for a few hours. OUCH! Also, it looks more streamlined on the S-Waver because it fits the profile of the nose better. LOL So, vertical versus horizontal may be a case of manufacturing ease, or tunability, or even looks, depending on the design. Line tie orientation on jigs is a different thing, and they to come in horizontal or vertical. The horizontal work better with Chatter Bait type set-ups. The same set-up may give advantages to other rigging options, like not being effected by the line slipping forward or back. Vertical line ties are a little less likely to get more weeds because it is in line with the hook already. Mark, well mark just went off and got super deep. So true, so very true. Not just lipped crankbaits. Lipless lures, like your swimbait, still have control surfaces and it is a balance between control surfaces that we are trying to achieve. Sometimes a vertical line tie allows more tunability, sometimes a horizontal, sometimes it just doesn't matter. Like I said, deep my friend, deep. I like that!
  24. 2 points
    To quote Captain Jack Sparrow, "It a matter of leverage." To me, the line tie (tow point) provides a balance point between a lipped crankbait body's movement in resistance to the water flowing over and around it, and the lip's resistance to the water striking it. The position of the line tie provides more leverage to one or the other. Achieving a balance between those two forces is what give a lipped crankbait stability. I like to think of it like a seesaw that has different sized kids on either end. They move toward or away from the fulcrum, the pivot point, until their body weights achieve a balance, so they can go up and down effortlessly, or the tail of a kite, long enough to provide stability, but short enough to still allow the kite to fly. As Bob said, a lure with a horizontal line tie would be much harder to tune, although it would allow you to move the tow point up or down more easily.
  25. 2 points
    I guess that makes us a backward bunch.
  26. 2 points
    Welcome to the forum Swimbait4life. Good to have you here. I have been studying that style of bait for about 10 years now, and as an engineer, I can tell you that the water flows that create the action are fascinating. I am still not convinced I know even half about the complexity of it. You can do a search on this site for Vortex and on Google for Hydrodynamic flutter or Hydrodynamic Vortex to get an idea of the interesting science in it. Still, there are some things that are common with this type of bait that will help. First, a very low placement of ballast seems to work best. You have rough attached the weights low, and you will want to keep it low when you embed the weight. Once you get it moving left and right, it will roll out without this low placement. Next, water flows are critical so embedding the weight will make the water flow better. This will help more at low speeds. Chuck is Funny, but his items 1 and 3 are good. but, the line tie relocation is best because it is easy. Sometimes a little movement makes all the difference. The good thing about this is that it is easy and you can move it back. I suspect that you will find your current placement close to or even acceptable. Mark is also correct in that this style of bait Mark has overstated it a little IMHO. I find that I get the best results if the front section is slightly faster sinking then the back. Dead equal and the bait will work but want to ride high in the water as you retrieve it. Front light and the lure will run straight to the surface. But, I said slightly, and I mean it. To much and it will impinge the hinge joint. If I wrote a book on the subject I could not cover everything, but I think Mark may have alluded to the first thing I would check, and that is hinge freedom. The hinge must be as close to frictionless as possible. The joint must be very free to move. If it is moving at faster speeds but not slower, this may very well be the problem. Check it out. Does it stick at all? Even out of the water? Check these things out first. Get back to us and we can go from there.
  27. 2 points
    Thank you for all the replies. Using Dawn dish soap has givin the best results so far. Paint seems to be adhering well. It is very time consuming, but something that keeps the customers happy. Thanks again everyone!
  28. 2 points
    I got a copy of Barlow's new catalog and there is a LOT of new stuff! I haven't had a chance to look through all of it, but I will in the next few days. New blades, Createx paints, etc. Pete
  29. 2 points
    It kinda looks like this post is going a bit sideways. That being said I'm human. I make mistakes, some times I can even laugh at them. Bottom line, I have ordered a lot from almost every company that's been mentioned and each has made a mistake at one time or another, it happens. They have always made it right. I believe that one's attitude also effects the out come. If I didn't order from one of them just because they made a mistake I wouldn't have anywhere to get any supplies from, which I guess the wife would like.
  30. 2 points
    Dawn is what I meant, not dove. Old mind. LOL
  31. 2 points
    So long as the paint has not dried and is still wet something like Acetone should work fine. If it has dried on your airbrush it may be necessary to step to something like Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) to lift it. They sell SB Coat Thinner which is ideal for clean out and clean up. Again its always best to use the thinner system that the paint is made from but if you have some other stuff in your inventory that works then go with it.
  32. 2 points
    the web site has also been upgraded
  33. 2 points
    I haven’t received mine yet but did look online and saw a lot of new offerings.
  34. 2 points
    I don't know about outlaw, but versatile for sure. Most of us don't have the time, space, or ability to obtain random scrap lead. But, for those that do, and for those that pour in molds that will accept different quality of lead, your method will save lots and lots of money for sure. I use to use wheel weights as well, straight, (the lead portion of course), and for some of my molds it worked just fine. I prefered plumbers sheet lead, which I got from contractors that were remodeling old houses. It was often on roofs around vents and it was soft, perfect. It is tough to find now. All of the reclaimed lead needed more flux, left a lot of garbage on top when I melted it down, but it was workable, for most molds. But, if someone is new enough to the hoby that they are asking the question, I think we owe it to them to give them the advice that will be easiest for them to use. But, in the future, once they have mastered the craft, then recycled lead is something to be embraced, not feared.
  35. 2 points
    You cannot weld a steel hooks to a brass blade. Now you can weld a steel hook to a steel blade, however the plating on the hook and the blade will be compromised and will have to be re-plated to keep it from rusting after welding. I recall awhile back some of the guys silver soldered the hooks onto blades, or it might be a slightly different process. I have tried silver soldering in the past, and it didn't work for me. You have to have the right flux (resin) and solder to do the job correctly along with the correct heat temp. the first thing that comes to mind is the Johnson Silver Minnow Spoon.
  36. 2 points
    Making a mold isn't hard to do just takes a little patience and thought. Much of the results however are dependent up on t he guy/gal making the mold. For the average DIY guy I think POP is about the cheapest, easiest to source material that will give very good results. I used POP for a lot of molds initially and poured a lot of lures out of POP molds. At a few dollars for several multiple cavity molds and ease of making very hard to beat. I switched to Durham's Rock Hard Puddy (yellowish molds below) rather quickly however and find it suits my needs better in regards to detail longevity, takes rough handling better, but still needs sealing. Can chuck a few other "similar" products like dental molding materials and art/sculpture products like Permastone. A mold release agent is nice to use and guys use an assortment of waxes, oils, greases. PAM (vegetable spray), Johnson's Paste wax, Vasololine, etc... all get used but products designed for use are easier to use and typically cause less issues with sealing a mold later down the road. Mann's Ease release is cheap enough and gives excellent results. I still usually wipe down and clean the molds with a solvent prior to sealing. Typically on water based molding material little issue and doesn't get absorbed. As mentioned prior undercuts are important in regards to initial molding of master as easy to get it locked into place if a hard master. I seal POP molds with thinned Devcon. I use no additives, backing, through rods, fiberglass reinforcement, no need for special baking procedures, etc. I think lure makers have a tendency to take something very simple and up the making it very involved and complicated for some reason (assume stems from the concept of making a better mouse trap.) Many threads touch on theses subjects but honestly never found the methods employed any added benefit but search the threads or ask away if any questions. I stack my molds in Rubbermaid containers and stuff them on a shelf when not in use. A few may have chipped over the years but still going strong. At one time I had about 10 totes using the careful storage method below . I have used Bondo body filler also for quick molds both one piece and two piece. Gets you a mold very quickly for testing and fills in nicely in a pinch. The issue they get warm quick and without reinforcement start to warp and bend. I don't mess with these too often but is nice at times. Have used fiberglass resin also and found it to pick up detail better, but still issues with heat. Were several threads over the years on this and tricks, but my least favorite molds overall. Have made two piece stick baits and a lot of simple french fry style lures with bondo and just use a router bit on the drill press and x/y sled and "mill" them. Nothing fancy but works just fine. Both POP and Durham's are nice as they initially will let baits set up quicker but this can also be a downfall in thin wall appendages/tails and you start to get incomplete fills. Now in bulky lures it helps to cool down quicker but still takes a while. The same bait in RTV silicone takes much longer to cool but you can get the benefits of pouring a little cooler and getting thin appendages to fill. Just much depends on the bait. Had a guy that wanted a commercially available frog bait done in soft plastic. I went with RTV for it in order to get the legs to fill completely as cooled to quick in POP molds. Now the mud dog lure takes way to long to cool in RTV (bad enough in POP) so one has to have a lot of cavities or it goes very slow. RTV silicone molds shine in regards to hard masters. If the master is a hard material with undercuts then RTV is what I will switch to. The eye sockets in the shad below. I have molded hard masters with undercuts in silicone to then make "master" soft plastics to make molds from cheaper materials. I haven't used the aluminum resin stuff mentioned by Anglinarcher but is one that interests me if some of the quick cooling properties of aluminum molds are shared. Overall have used resin products the least typically because of cost and was routinely getting open pour aluminum molds for sub 20 bucks on ebay. Many of my molds I replaced with aluminum molds of similar design over the years as they became available and if I had fewer hobbies would likely get into making my own.
  37. 2 points
    You must use better plumbers putty... LOL... I quit using it. I started using this as a much better temporary option.. https://www.rotometals.com/casting-retainer-putty-1-pound/
  38. 2 points
    For Do-It I either go to Barlow's or Zeiner's. There's a eBay seller, cnc-works, that has some really nice molds. http://shawncollinscustoms.net/ http://stores.jacobsbaits.com/ http://www.smacktackle.com/acehandmolds.html That's all I have.
  39. 2 points
    Well yes if you are happy with you color it is fine but when someone wants bright then a lot of colorant is needed. Here is hot pink and bubble gum. No way to change bubble gum to hot pink
  40. 2 points
    Dave, I/we sure miss your tank and videos.
  41. 2 points
    As stated above, it is all about vortices, more specifically the Kármán vortex street. If you go to YouTube and search for 'flat plate vortex street' you will find plenty of examples. These vids are fine for explaining what happens with a front lipped lure, but for rear lipped lures it is not the whole story. Jointed lipless lures are also driven by vortices created around the nose of the bait. So, you have an alternating vortex flow which then interacts with the rear lip. You cannot consider the vortices as independent, the water flow is a complete or closed system were the vortices work together. If the lip width is tuned to match the nose vortices then a more powerful action could be developed (theory). Here is a video of a round and square lip side-by-side. The different lips should have a slightly different oscillation speed, but you will see that the lures swim in perfect sync as the vortices interact.
  42. 2 points
    That's okay. I'm kind of hard of hearing, so it doesn't bother me.
  43. 2 points
    For a rattle can silver or gold, Rustoleum 2x coverage silver and gold work well. It can even be decanted into an airbrush by spraying it through a tube. But I hate the laquer and drying time. I started using Wicked metallic gold pearl. I love it. I havent tried the silver yet - but I will. There are many self adhesive films out there. But you can get mylar wrapping paper (the kind without the paper backing) at Michaels. You can get gold, silver, and holographic clear. You can heat shrink it to some extent to a lure body using a vacuu form and heat gun. Then it can be applied to a lure blank with epoxy. Personally I find the pure metallic shine of the gold and silver to be too flashy. The clear seems more useful to me.
  44. 2 points
    I use medium from Bait junkie, soft works well but I wanted it to be a bit tougher but still have movement
  45. 2 points
    Do a search for vortex here. Vodkaman Dave has some good thoughts, based on his own testing and engineering experience.
  46. 2 points
    Q----'' Did you ever get that whole upside down thing figured out? And the driving on the wrong side of the road? '' Funny thing is Mark, we seem to have gotten used to it . But when I have hired a car over there or in Sweden, I have had a few problems with direction and which side is up (North) etc - It doesn't take long to get used to it though ---BUT then we come home and have to go through re-calibrating the compass all over again . Have a great Xmas/ New Year all Pete
  47. 2 points
    PETG Thermoform .02 thickness. http://a.co/eCCA6VU
  48. 2 points
    I've tried several different ones , I ended up sticking with Jan's. My 2 Cents. Mike
  49. 2 points
    Paint thinners and paints including Createx can contain chemicals like glycerin or other flow enhancers that leave a slightly tacky feel after all the water has evaporated. If you dry your paint with a hair dryer or just let the paint air dry for a short while, you shouldn’t have a problem unless you are applying paint in thick layers. Even then, if you dry each color with a hair dryer as you shoot it, you will probably be ok.
  50. 2 points
    This is LC motor oil I use for baby bass. NO salt in these.