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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/09/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Mark, I wasn't sure if you check back on threads that you've commented in before, so I made this thread just to say, Thank you !! The advice you offered me in my injection mold problem thread was spot on! Trying to keep the story short ... I tried opening the gate up a bit and added a vent channel with a hole drilled at its end, at the nose of the bait. It didn't help at all. In fact it made it worse. The vent wouldn't let me build up any pressure in the mold, and I think it actually caused the gate to cool closed more quickly. So I got the Dremel out again and really went to town on opening up that gate. I didn't quite take it to the entire width of the runner (but I will) but it's almost there. I left the hole I drilled at the end of the nose vent channel plugged with plastic, and shot the mold again. Almost perfect !!! When I opened up the mold, the now funnel shaped gate was actually hollow. Opening it up that much allowed the bait to pull in more hot plastic. Which is what the problem most likely was from the very beginning. Your advice to me tells me you knew exactly what the problem was. And you told me how to fix it. I can't thank you enough for steering me in the right direction. I really wanted this bait to be right. And you made that possible. Once again. Thank you. Your help is truly appreciated.
  2. 4 points
    With a pure clean ingot dross should be minimal. If your buying from a reputable refiner such as Rotometals here on the USA it should be really clean. But for scrap lead from a scrap yard or anywhere else it will vary every time.
  3. 4 points
    I've had good luck with baltic birch plywood. Not the normal plywood from home depot. Normal plywood uses low quality plies in the middle. Baltic birch uses high-quality plies all the way through. I got mine at Rockler woodworking store. They sell smaller pieces (1ftx2ft) so you don't have to buy a whole sheet. No problems with grain, it finishes fairly smooth and then wipe on layers of lacquer and final dip in floor wax to get gloss finish. The plies show up as alternating light/dark lines that help you keep symmetry. You can get pretty fine detail. If I wanted super fine detail I'd carve either PVC trim board or a tan-colored casting resin (urethane). I really like having the lines built-in to guide my work.
  4. 3 points
    Hooks are part of the weighting and yours are on the small side. This will also cause hook up issues I recommend up sizing this aside do you have a pic of it floating in the water? odds are if you can get your copy the float in the same angle as the original that will solve the balance/weighting. also adjust your tie point is another option remember you are trying to replicate a plastic lure using wood so adjustments are going to be needed to get close action wise What action are you getting? I am assuming it’s blowing out with the front lip over powering the lure Odds are if you balance it so it sits the same as the original it’s a matter of adjusting the tie point. If you are blowing out move it closer to the front of the lip. If you want more wiggle move it towards the body Hope that makes sense I am on nightshift for a few shifts so may not respond quickly if you have questions
  5. 3 points
    For home use, plastic is a reasonably low cost consumable a gallon goes a long way (OK after you get past the newbie tendency to make 50 of each color). Glitters, colorants and molds will eat money in job lots But runners do make sense where you can't ship liquids I get managing the budget but there are times when spending the money will make the hobby more enjoyable. Odd things happen to plastic, glitter and colors after it's been heated once or twice. Fresh plastic is more dependable in how it reacts so you get better results than from re-melt.
  6. 3 points
    18 baits and only 1 that had any hint of a dent. And that it because it was the bait closest to the sprue of the mold, and I didn't have enough plastic in the injector. Once again a huge thank you to Mark for his help. And a huge thank you to all the members that have given me help and offered suggestions on any of my threads. Your thoughts and input are appreciated more than you can know. This place is the Rodbuilding.org of bait making. I love this place !!!
  7. 3 points
    Barlow's shows some alternative hooks for this mold. Look at the bottom of this page. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Herring-Head-Jig-Molds-P3289/ Barlow's also lists several alternative hooks when you pull up the hook style. It has been posted before that if you call them, they can tell you the other hooks that will work.
  8. 2 points
    All done ,thanks for everyone's input Atb Kanny
  9. 2 points
    You can soak wooden lure bodies overnight in a mixture of mineral spirits and Linseed oil to seal and remove them for a few days to dry out . You can then paint with oil based paints so I don't know why it wouldn't work for wood beads . I think the mix ratio is 9 parts mineral spirits to 1 part linseed oil from what I remember .
  10. 2 points
    If it's a new airbrush, send it back. If it's used, break it down completely and soak it overnight in Createx Airbrush Restorer. https://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Restorer
  11. 2 points
    This one drives me crazy because if it was in my hands it would take me less than a minute to figure it out lol A little tip to odd shaped baits is don’t over think the body and focus on the angle of the lip/face that catches the water. That is the most important because that is what creates the action. The body angle is not that important. The weight and buoyancy of the body has more impact then it angle. The kwik fish is designed so the fat ends buoyancy will counter the less buoyant front end. Remember built with plastic the lip would sink and the air cavity in the fat end is buoyant hope this makes sense I am still half asleep lol PS going by memory the kwik fish sits about 2/3 in the water lip down. When the bait is floating the hook hangers should create a relatively straight level line. I am pretty sure you’re tie point should be a little closer to the tip of the lip. Hope some of my half asleep ramblings make sense. Its easy for me to build but trying to type out how to do it is way harder for me
  12. 2 points
    I use a Tetra Whisper 60 that I got at Petsmart and it will run 4 - 2" beds and 2 - 4" beds at the same time. Got it on sale, I used instructions from Cadman to build my fluid beds.
  13. 2 points
    Looking at the shape of the front section, the middle of the bait is the highest point, and the ends are the lowest, meaning you have buoyancy low (the ends) and weight high (the middle). My thought is to distribute your weight more to the ends, but not necessarily the same at each end. You might need more to the front and less to the back. It might even mean using a less dense wood, so that you can have a greater difference in density from top to bottom.
  14. 2 points
    Half asleep at work just noticed I forgot to consider the buoyancy of the wooden lip vs being plastic. The weight will be more forward nightshift messes up my train of thought. I will be smarter in 5days lol
  15. 2 points
    @DGagner if you look at my designs they almost all have a curve to them. The real trick is carve with balance in mind and the kwik fish design does this. You can accomplish balance with curved baits with no weight if you design it right Odds are the weight goes between the 1st and 2nd hook 1/3 behind the first hook. But I need to float test to really know
  16. 2 points
    I've found that making any weight bowed that way make issues in orientation. Think about it. If you drop a feather that is bowed it will always turn so the bow is facing down (the middle is lowest). Do the same thing with something in the water and it's the same. I've found that even some of my hard swimbaits that have an arch to them have difficulty staying upright. I need to weight them more than I'd like to keep them stable. And the more it's arched the higher the weight usually is as it's in the highest point of the arch. Lures like this look really good but I've not been making them like this any longer for that reason. It is possible but boy it's not easy. Here's an example of one that I've had issues with, and it's not arched much either. They all tend to want to ride in the water like skis. Lemmee know if you find a solution.
  17. 2 points
    I actually just saw one on the bay site!
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    A relatively simple carving and paint job bait. I wanted something light for early morning sunrise fishing.
  20. 2 points
    I suppose you could seal it inside and out. Then slip it on a piece of wire or plastic that you coated with a lubricant like oil ect.
  21. 2 points
    Superglue was my first thought too. Liquid superglue. Or you could spray polycrylic. Love that stuff now. Probably wouldn’t penetrate as well as superglue. But you could just dip it in polycrylic too. It is thin enough it would clog the hole.
  22. 2 points
    If you do buy plastic & buy 5 gallons a time you will have all kinds of remeltable sprues after a little while. I keep mine in left over coffee cans (atleast 20) under the bench in my garage & use it as needed.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    Seal them with thin superglue. Then just before the glue dries clean the hole out with a small wire. Superglue actually permeates the wood and seals quite well from water. i.e. You can sand a superglue sealed lure and taking the surface glue off won't expose the wood.
  25. 2 points
    Just seal the entire bead as you need to seal the interior of walls of hole anyway. Personally I would likely just chuck all the beads in a small jar of dewaxed shellac and let sit for 15 to 30 minutes then remove and let dry. Just clean out the hole with the correct drill bit and lightly sand the bead and should be good to go. If only a few beads likely just saturate the line hole and bead with superglue a few times over.
  26. 2 points
    What you have created in that first build that hunts is a bait that is near some instability in its normal operating mode (slow roll). At faster speed it "shifts" into a different mode (on it's side). Being nearly un-stable, it only takes a minor change (tiny water swirl or slight change in speed) to briefly kick it out of its stable mode and then it returns to slow rolling. I think your idea of shifting ballast can also work. You just need to make sure that your lure is near enough to some point of instability that the ballast change will have a real effect. If the bait is super stable (very low CG), it will easily correct itself for minor changes in balance.
  27. 2 points
    This is my hunting solution posted in April 2017. The theory stands up and the build success rate is 100% with care. Of course, I am not claiming that there are not more solutions out there. Dave
  28. 2 points
    When I use the restorer I run it thru a towel folded two or three times then pour back into the jar I have for that, don't forget to squeeze the towel into the jar also. Wayne
  29. 2 points
    There is a reason when I sold lures to stores I would take at least one employee fishing using my lures If I could get that employee to have a great day catching fish on my lures I knew I would sell more lures through that location. There is a big difference between your lure hanging on the rack vs the employee showing pics from an awesome day fishing with the guy who makes the lure If you are having your tackle sold in a shop the employees recommendation makes a huge difference.
  30. 2 points
    ICAST as a virtual event should perhaps be a secondary thing, not the primary. For a long time, the event has focused on showing the product to the planners and buyers, not the consumers, so having a more hands on, more of a touchy/feeley event is still important. Restricting the event to the buyers and planners just increased consumer hype. In my store I have lots of people that come in with a picture or video of what they want, and when they see it in person, they choose something else completely. Sometimes it is the packaging, sometimes the hands on simply does not live up to the hype from the virtual presentation. Sometimes the product simply does not live up to the personality that shows it. That is why I tell my customers I am a teacher, not a salesman: I would rather sell them what they understand and will/can use than something trendy and expensive. I'm not saying that we should not augment the physical with a virtual, quite the opposite, but watching the demographics of the fisherman and fisher-women in my store tell me that the days of only using virtual presentations are a long way off. Remember, those of us old enough had catalogs, like Herter's, or Sears, or Montgomery Wards, and they gave way to the box stores. The current generation has gone to the on-line catalog but returns are high because of it. The pendulum is swinging one way now, but it will swing the other way again, then back....and forth.... and ..... So, for this year, there may not be a choice, but I predict that the results will be disappointing. If I were presenting a new product, and had to get it out as soon as possible to get ahead of the curve/others, I would present it virtually.......BUT, if I could hold off a year and show it in person (assuming we would actually be able to do that next year), I would hold off. Just my opinion, but I do believe my opinion is based on good observations and actual experience.
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
    In the end it’s your hobby and really you choose where you want to take it. Your lure looks good with an action that should get bit Don’t get too caught up on having to follow what others have done to learn how to build or paint lures.I am the poster child for just winging it and making it happen lol @DGagner research the colour spectrum and what washes out as light is filtered out by depth of water. Then add in the fact murky or stained water filters out light even more then clear water. You begin to realize it does not take much before a lot of paint jobs become shades of grey in a hurry. But you can use this to your advantage choosing colours. Action is still king and have caught many fish on unpainted wooden lures or white resin blanks. One of my go to’s is always a pure white lure
  33. 2 points
    I stopped worrying about little details (except in baits I was painting for show) after anglers started catching bass on Umbrella Rigs !
  34. 2 points
    Go with whatever turns your crank. The fact of the matter is when you get into the finer details of lure painting its for catching the human eye not fish. In my opinion there is no wrong or right answer to your question. Try different things and see what you like. Worst case you cover it up with a new base coat or clean it up and start over
  35. 2 points
    The amount of squeak would be influenced by the type of plastic in the blade. The good news is the cheaper the plastic, the more it would squeak! Plastic on plastic would squeak the most (use a cheap non-lucubrated plastic). In the industry we call these "wear" thermoplastics. To reduce wear or squeaks you would use a "low wear" or lubricated plastic. So, if you could put a plastic tube around your wire (and fit it tight or glue it) and then put the blade over it, you might be able to get the sound to want. Only one way to know! I noticed that the blades I recently purchased have an aluminum shaft insert in them. I suppose that it was to make sure they spin and/or to match wire size to the hole in the blade. The problem would be to get the squeak, the blades would not turn as easily so you would need a bigger blade or faster speed (I suppose). Gee....all those years in the thermoplastics industry finally payed off!
  36. 2 points
    In another group somebody mentioned clear ABS. I had to research it. Like Clear PVC pipe I didn't even know it was a thing until I looked. From what I read clear ABS is less impact resistant than even regular ABS, but I don't know what that means in the grand scheme of things. I think I'm just going to make some using different materials and conduct an exacting scientific stress and wear test, but tying them to a stick and beating them on the sidewalk.
  37. 2 points
    If I was going to attempt a carving project. I would make a mold and cast the simple un-carved body in Bondo and then carve. There is no grain to be concerned about, and if I screwed up, I could quickly cast another master for my next carving attempt rather than starting from scratch. Dave
  38. 2 points
    From Europe with sympathy, here you are a system really strong, called 360° rig without wire. If you need to position the treble hook more close to the tail, then you can put a pc. of single wire between the jig hook curve and the swivel, of course the 2 wire loops must be crimped really well. Bye Cami
  39. 2 points
    I am partial to basswood as cheap and readily available and is what most of my masters have been carved from. "Detail" is dependent on the person. Basswood can get fuzzy with fine detail but can be burned off. I don't do much detail on lures typically so basswood works well for my needs. Won't have issue with grain and there is a reason why basswood is used frequently by carvers. Tupelo is nice also but haven't used much of it. Paulowina I tried seamed to splinter easily. Aspen or pine could be fine also. Maple holds detail well and crisp but more difficult to carve and work with.
  40. 2 points
    I'm glad it worked out. I don't think you can make a mistake that most of us haven't already made. Everything I know about bait making I learned here on TU from generous members willing to share their knowledge.
  41. 2 points
    That looks like Zinc contamination to me. If you don't get that out of your pot it will render it unusable as it will cause holes in the liner. I found that out the hard way, you need to be careful when buying lead. I get most of my lead from Rotometals but I bought some very good lead with 3% antimony from Davis bait company.
  42. 2 points
    One of the things they put in wheel weights . Thing is wheel weights will ruin your pot . Some of it is is corrosive and can eat pits in the crucible . Wheel weights have no. on them . Some of the manufactures have list of the material in a weight . Been a long time since I tried to look up any of that stuff.
  43. 2 points
    I think you should empty your pot and start over. First, never put lead in your pot that hasn’t been fluxed and cleaned unless you trust the source like you trust your best friend. Flux it 2 or 3 times. Scrape off the impurities with a ladle, stainless steel large spoon works well. Pigmetal spoon from Walmart does not. Lots of info on flux in the best lead flux thread. I use gulf wax parrafin from your grocery store. Readily available. Do it outside. Lots of smoke. After you have cleaned your lead only then it goes in your pot. From there, still some learning curve. That’s a start, though.
  44. 2 points
    The only time I ever ran onto what you describe was I got a mix of lead and Babbitt . But then it would be hard as a rock and to thick to pour from a bottom spout when you heat it .
  45. 2 points
    I’m no metallurgist but there’s a in depth conversation the last couple pages on contamination, color, temperature, fluxing of course, and oxidation up in the best lead flux thread. It might give you some idea about what’s going on. Did you flux that lead well before you put it in your pot? And what are you using for flux?
  46. 2 points
    It looks like you are making your own silicone molds? If that is true, I know what is happening. Any surface imperfection in the original is transferred to the mold, and the mold will then transfer it to the final bait. Even if it was a factory silicone mold, if the original is not perfect, the bait will not be perfect. When I make on original, I "polish" the original before I make the mold. How I "polish" the original depends on what I made it from, but the surface must be slick, clean, "polished". Note, polished does not mean with wax because it can cause some silicone to not properly set cure. The reason the top is slick, shiny, is because air does not have imperfections to transfer. I hope this helps some. Silicone can make slick shiny molds as well as aluminum, but because aluminum is machined it is polished to start with. Silicone requires a perfect original to start with.
  47. 2 points
    Yup, I have some 3-G plastis from a storage cabinet ( that will tell you how old it is.) and I have had to add a lot of heat stabilizer to it and mix the fire out of it.( hardpack)
  48. 2 points
    I think this is a pretty classic bone. River2Sea is much more yellow
  49. 2 points
    Well, this is going to be a probably different suggestion but I'll throw it out anyway. When I portrait paint and want to make a flesh tone you start with a fair amount of white, mix in some yellow, a little red and a touch of blue. With that you get a flesh tone depending on the amounts you used. varying the colors you can get almost any fesh (tannish) color you want from nearly white to ebony. I would think bone is in there someplace. One thing we don't do with portraits is mix some white with brown as you only get light to dark brown in the process, and that's all it is, a shade of brown. And black is a no-no. It just ends up muddying the color. black is used for black, not for darkening colors. Here's a link to an online color mixer. You can use it to mix any colors in any combination. Try 11 parts white, 3 yellow, 1 red, and 1 blue. You'll get a bone color. Vary the yellows, reds, and blues, and you'll see you can do any shade of bone you want. When mixing paints you can use the same combinations in an airbrush and get similar results. Well, that was different!
  50. 2 points
    Biggest problem is that bone is not a color that everyone agrees on. Your bone is not always my bone. You might do a search on the sight but in the end, it might be best to post a picture of the color you want.
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