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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    It's getting to be shad spawn time, so I decided to make a smaller plopper in a shad pattern. It swims and plops even at low speeds.
  2. 2 points
    There are plenty of pro shops using siphon feed Badger and Paasche brushes to finish baits. I like a gravity feed Iwata because I use small amounts of paint as a hobby builder and it’s easier to clean between colors and after painting. I still keep my Badger with its 3 tips in case I need to paint something larger than a crankbait with paint that’s thicker than I’d use on a bait. Btw, the Neo is the only Iwata built in China, not Japan. You usually get only what you pay for in airbrushes, unfortunately.
  3. 2 points
    Remember, a happy wife is a happy life.
  4. 2 points
    That's what you get for not using my link...
  5. 1 point
    Hello, Just wondering if ProTec”s Orange glow powder paint actually glows orange? I know some products are colored but still glow green. Thanks, Craig
  6. 1 point
    just use common sense on the pressure, think of it like a can of soda ready to squirt out, if you give it a reason or chance to it will squirt out melted plastic and nothing on earth hurts worse if it gets on your skin and you cannot remove it until it finishes burning you and cools off. short answer is when in doubt dont apply more pressure unless you have issues with deformed baits a good safety precaution is a BBQ/cooking apron, might look or feel silly wearing it but the first time it stops hot plastic from getting on your shirt and/or through it you will be happy you had it on i would venture to say the only time people get hot plastic squirting back out at you is because they are rushing and trying to force it into the molds too fast. if you think the molds are filling too slowly then enlarge the gate but dont try to force it in. PS - im an amateur rookie as well just sharing things i have learned
  7. 1 point
    I am just a hobby pourer, so this is just how I do things, not necessarily the only or best way. I shoot some PAM cooking spray into my injector after each shot. That has kept the O rings in good shape for more than 5 years. Knock on wood. I shoot med fast, and hold pressure for a 5 to 10 count, depending on how thick the bait is. Good venting lets me shoot faster, since there is no trapped air to get rid of, but each mold is different, so I vary how fast I shoot accordingly.
  8. 1 point
    just a mere flesh wound! my baits take a beating also....nothing I have seen will hold up to rocks and fish for long.
  9. 1 point
    If you buy in bulk (1K) you can get a better price from Worth. They have excellent blades.
  10. 1 point
    You are one lucky person. Quick, buy a lottery ticket! Hahaha
  11. 1 point
    Be patient (I know it’s hard) and accept that you’ll need to clean it everyday. It’s just the nature of the beast, it will get easier over time.
  12. 1 point
    Cost isnt really a limitation, more of a delay.... i just bought a boat last month, so its kinda difficult to justify another purchase with the wife this soon....... especially seeing as how the airbrush i just destroyed was a gift from her
  13. 1 point
    This is the one I have.... some of the ads call it vintage (LOL)... it's the VL model... old but works. It's a little bit more than the cheap chinese made ones... but not near the cost of a Iwata. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Paasche-VL-Airbrush-Set-in-Original-Box-No-16071/264467608310?epid=2164372332&hash=item3d937f72f6:g:etwAAOSwNx5df6iy https://www.ebay.com/itm/PAASCHE-AIRBRUSH-SET-VL-FOR-CRAFTSMEN-HOBBYISTS-PASTRY-ARTIST-CERAMICISTS/303283783814?hash=item469d1f4886:g:g3kAAOSwB8xdXtdo
  14. 1 point
    I get mine in 2 weeks... Have some patience. The price is right, So are shipping costs! Get a couple.
  15. 1 point
    Mark you are starting to move into a modern age. Wayne
  16. 1 point
    Not really, unless you are using a really small blade on a bait with large wire and a big clevis.
  17. 1 point
    My first airbrush was a Badger siphon, with a .5 tip, and all it does is work. I use to spray white undercoat when I have a lot of lures to paint, and it never clogs.
  18. 1 point
    I have both an Iwata Eclipse and and old Paasche (I think I got it for X-Mas in 1990). I found the Iwata to work really well doing fine details and feathering out light areas - but would need the paint to be just right (not to thick/not too thin) as it has a smaller tip diameter. My old Paasche I have the .5mm tip and I can put almost anything through it provided it isn't thick like glue! If you'r just doing very basic shading on a bait (base coat on sides / a top-back coat / a belly coat-color) and using stencils for small/fine details like striping/eyes - a basic airbrush with a bigger diameter tip will work for most of what you need - and provided you clean it when done - should work maintenance free. If your trying to very light/fine details and such - the smaller tip brush will work better like found on Iwata and other brands - but you'll have to be more precise with your paint viscosity and pressures, etc. You'll also need to be more diligent about cleaning and be careful with the needle/tip as drop it once the floor can/will ruin it (I speak from experience). For the majority of what I do - the old Paasche with a big tip works great... I even have my 8 year old use it to paint his pinewood derby car.... it's that friendly. J.
  19. 1 point
    Your brush wasn’t finicky. It was broken and needed repair to work properly. If you threw it against a wall in frustration, maybe airbrushing isn’t for you. The main thing building and finishing crankbaits taught me was patience. Stick with it and you’ll get that lesson over and over.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    This is great advice, I use the notes app on my phone, can put pics of the bait and a table with colorant info, glitter info, etc under the pic, works great!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    You have received some pretty good advice here. One thing I find important is to keep a notebook handy. Write down every measurement (oz plastisol, drops of colorant, types of glitter and how much). You may want to repeat a formula and I guarantee you won’t be able to remember them.
  24. 1 point
    I'd try about 4 ounces & see if that's enough to inject it. Remember if doing 4 ounces you'll only get 3 or so ounces when you inject because there will be a plug of plastic that will not come out. On my microwave i put 3 to 4 ounces in for a minute & a half. Your may be totally different so i'd try a minute, stir & go from there. I put my colorant & glitter in the cold plastisol & heat it. After a little while you'll figure out how your microwave does & you'll be able to get really close to getting it ready to pour in one heating. I do have my recipies like Canga~ said, but i've never had much of a problem adding it in cold. When making new colors i work in small batches & add colorant or glitter as needed.
  25. 1 point
    Its been on my mind lately, and wanted to start a thread about safety regarding our various resins we use with hard baits. I personally have developed a sensitivity to certain resins and upon further research I fault myself for not using better precautions. The fastest way to end one's lure making days is to develop a sensitivity to one of the chemicals used in bait making so I will give my lessons learned with safety and encourage others to give their lessons learned. First, polyurethanes use a toxic chemical known as methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) which is usually the yellow or darked tinted liquid in two part mixes. The clear liquid is usually a diol compound similar to antifreeze and is less toxic. Studies have found nearly everyone can eventually become sensitized to MDI with enough time. 2-8 years of low chronic exposure to MDI will result in 25% or higher likelihood of sensitization. Of those sensitized, 60% will retain the symptoms of sensitization for life, even when permanently removed for ALL exposure. Recently it has been learned that dermal contact with isocyanates can be as dangerous or even more dangerous than inhalation. You may not have realized that spraying an auto clear without a mask is as dangerous as spilling uncured resin on your skin. Second, epoxies usually contain triamines and/or formaldehyde and have caused even worse sensitizations than with isocyanates in studies with Guinea Pigs. Everything above applies but even more severe. Third, microballoons are borosilicate glass and when inhaled chronically can cause silicosis (permanent scarring of the lungs). I work in the abrasives/grinding industry and have personally viewed ceramic dust under a SEM, and have seen many particles often as small as 1 micron by 4 microns. Hence, your dust mask and/or filter is not removing them. When you sand microballoon filled resin your dust mask is not enough. To protect yourself when pouring resins, at a minimum, you should: [1] Work in a well ventilated area [2] Wear nitrile gloves and long sleeve shirt (no exposed skin) [3] Use a vent hood when pouring/sanding/mixing resins or use a full air supplied respirator [4] Never heat any resin without industrial equipment designed for such a purpose [5] Forget about "it won't happen to me" because it will, given enough chronic exposure [6] Remember that even organic respirators do not remove isocyanate vapors Any other stories/suggestions?
  26. 1 point
    The Iwata HPCS is an excellent brush and I use it for 70% of my work. Cant say anything about the quality and longevity of the compressor or the quality of the paint in that kit however. good price but if you price out the same brush, a California Air Tools compressor, sprayout pot and a selection of quality paint like Wicked you will be in the same range and have a compressor and paint that is of high quality. As far as cheap blanks go, Cedar Run Outdoors has some good ones, and excellent service
  27. 1 point
    I'll third that! My local glass shop let me come take a look and gave me all sorts of pieces of polycarbonate. In return I made them a larger lure for display with their company name on it, just for fun. They were so pumped, I have basically an unlimited source for lip material now! Another spot I have got some from is a plastic's distributor. They had a bunch of cut offs that they let me buy for cheap.
  28. 1 point
    yes sir, check with your local glass shops for scrap lexan/poloycarbonate. most shops will throw small pieces away as soon as it is cut, so talk with them.
  29. 1 point
    Glass guy in town gives me a deal on his cut off ends. Last time I got a 6ftx1ft and a bunch of other strips 2inch and wider of 1/8 for 5$
  30. 1 point
    I've made quite a few swimbait molds with tails like that - getting the air out of the tails is a major PITA. Granted - they look great and work great - but are hit and miss on bubbles right where you're getting it. I found that the closer the angle of the tail edge (the edge your getting the bubbles on) is to 90 degrees from the mold split - the more trapped bubbles you'll get. Pretty sure it has to do with air getting trapped further up in the tail - and then not being pushed out fully before the cavity fills below it and seals off. That mold looks like the tail is pretty close to 90 degrees and is deep/wide... so I think you might have challenges with it no matter what you try. If you can't get them out with process (as others have mentioned above) - maybe add a few small vents in the tail and see if that helps the air push out. On a few of the mold I've made - I carved HUGE vents - almost more like appendages - to let the air/plastic migrate out of the tail - and then just trim them off. But I only make stuff on an hobby (personal level) so don't care about that extra work. J.
  31. 1 point
    Homemade custom painted cedar musky lures 8” & 10” deep diver, new design lip slot, with aluminum 2 line tie lips.
  32. 1 point
    Cedar walleye deep diver
  33. 1 point
    I am a more technical builder. Of all the tools, the one I would never throw away is my gram scale (0.01g x 500g), but tech building is certainly not for everyone. Good advice above; keep notes, get familiar with the search function, ask questions one at a time and in separate posts. My advice; don't throw lures away that don't work as these are your main learning tools, you have to figure out why. Keep them in a box or hang them on your wall of shame. Welcome Dave
  34. 1 point
    Your cellphone's camera is your friend. Take step by step pictures, for reference.
  35. 1 point
    There is so many little tricks and things vary a lot from lure style and materials you choose to use One of my personal issues I had to over come is recreating my own lure designs. Keep notes on how you built your lure so you can make more in the future. Research methods on how to replicate your own designs. Personally I cannot replicate my designs with wood so I make molds and pour them out of resin There is truly a ton of information on this forum and knowledgeable builders from a variety of styles. The best tip I can give you is do a search of this forum and you will find a ton of information. After that ask ?s regarding one issue at a time and odds are members will offer good advice on addressing your issue. Personally find it hard to offer help without direct ?s Welcome to the insanity of lure building you will now find lure designs you want to build running through your head 24/7. You will wake up swearing in the middle of the night dreaming about designs that are frustrating you. You will have a box of lures that did not go as planned. Overall your life will never be the same
  36. 1 point
    Hey there and welcome to the group! I’m new here as well and looking for some tips as I’m just getting started too. The one tip I can offer to you is to watch “Marling Baits” on YouTube! He has some really good content on his channel and I have learned a ton from watching his videos! And there’s definitely some younger blood getting into this hobby as I’m only 20. cheers!
  37. 1 point
    4 3/4” cedar foiled blue gill
  38. 1 point
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  43. 1 point
    No offence but painting is just that painting. I respect the talent with an airbrush but in the end it’s just decorating a lure that someone else made. There is only so many combinations and if you are matching natural feed things are even more limited Maybe I just don’t get it because my focus is on building and action more than painting. In the end if painting is what you base your business on and competition is hurting you it’s time to find something that makes you stand out from the others. It’s just how business goes Good luck
  44. 1 point
    My opinions on painting plastic lure blanks are well documented. I was even reprimanded by the TU management for upsetting paying advertisers. Reprimand is a bit strong, more of a 'please stop it' Strangely enough, people who attempt to copy famous, successful lures do not bother me in the slightest. I know that there is a lot more to copying a lure than shape alone. Most will fail but they will learn something about lures on the journey. In fact, I would recommend trying to copy a favourite lure in the learning process as many experienced builders also suggest. Those who can copy a commercial successfully have all the skills to produce their own masterpieces. I often wonder why they bother, but I guess it is a challenge. I was even considering writing a thread dedicated to reverse engineering a lure without destructive examination even though I have never done it before. I never view the gallery. I am not really interested in the current trends. I do not want my design ideas to be affected by what others are doing. Basically, body shape is a covering over the internal structure although it does have some functionality. Because I am not commercially competing I see no reason for secrets. I even received a couple of angry PMs for revealing design secrets that they had been cashing in on for years. However they need not worry, many read the articles but very few try the ideas out. The few that do are only producing lures for personal use. I probably got a bit off subject with this post, but there you go, I am rambling Dave
  45. 1 point
    Bassmaster - Part of this is down to the beauty of the internet. Anyone can learn a skill far quicker and efficiently than they ever could 20 years ago with hundreds of videos available on any subject. This makes many people who had to learn the hard way bitter on the whole subject. I came across this attitude when I first joined TU, I was told to put the work in. I think quick and efficient learning is a very good thing. The question that you should be asking is 'what is the definition of a custom lure'. For most people, custom means slapping a coat of paint on a cheap Chinese imported blank and selling it on Ebay. My definition of a custom lure; to design and build a lure for a single customer with a specific set of requirements, size, action, depth, shape and paint job. A design that is not or is no longer available commercially. Custom could well be just the paint job, but the customer would send you the lure and request a certain pattern and set of colours. If you obtain 500 blanks, paint them with a few of your own best patterns and put them up on Ebay, these are simply lures for sale, and definitely NOT custom lures for sale. I too am disappointed about the whole 'custom' thing. You, because now everyone can encroach on your 'custom' business. Me, because the whole art of lure design and building has been devalued to the point of neglect. Just like calligraphy, lure design is a dying art. I actually own an Iwata but have never opened the box, it has never seen a drop of paint. All my lures are painted white, purely for visibility, to allow me to examine the movement. If I ever bring a lure to market, which might happen soon, it will be painted black. As a compromise, I might make blanks available, probably not on second thoughts. I don't believe in paint as a fish attraction, I believe it is all about movement. Dave
  46. 1 point
    Thank you all so much the the info and replies.. I made my first batch of Crankbaits!! Here’s a couple picture for you guys.
  47. 1 point
    BH what type of bait are you using. I have been using it for over 7 months. It does live up to the billing but as any bait thin areas will tear.
  48. 1 point
    A bandsaw, a drill press, and a belt sander, for stationary power tools. Cut your profile with the bandsaw, rough sand the profile with the belt sander, add a centerline all around the profile, and then use the bandsaw again to cut your lip slot, and the drill press to drill your belly hook hanger hole. Sanding blocks with different grits, starting at 80 to rough shape down to 120 for shape tuning. For PVC, poplar and pine, I do some rounding over on the belt sander, but for balsa I do all rounding over by hand. 120 to 180 grit sheet sandpaper for final smoothing, 400 grit wet or dry for smoothing your sealer. Exacto knives or carving knives for details. A cordless drill to install your hardware. Water intrusion is deadly for wooden baits. Once you have them final sanded, seal your wooden baits before you add the lips and hardware with runny super glue, including the lip slot and hardware holes. Then use the 400 grit to knock off any grain that is locked by the super glue. Once the lip and hardware are installed, seal again with epoxy and wet sand before you paint. Use a good top coat to finish your baits, because it is the only protection you paint jobs will have if you use water based paints. I hope this helps. Have fun!
  49. 1 point
    This is a well kept secret between us members.... We tell our wives that tackle is expensive and its cheaper to make our own! Your bait looks great btw!... Im a big fan of this style jerk bait, my 1st ever attempt was at one like it (also a Rapala copy) but quickly found out how finicky they are... So i give you props!... Im yet to get back to mine, but it is on the to do list, i will have to keep the lip thickness in mind as well
  50. 1 point
    Better pictures of one of my Featherlite Walleye Swimbaits.
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