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Showing most liked content since 03/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    First time for me I had a lure made with 3D printing and I am making a mold right now. Lure needs no sealing since it is plastic and is as smooth as a baby's a.. Now back to work. wayne
  2. 3 points
    if you like it so much I have 45 gallons of their plastic I sell you
  3. 3 points
    Its still calhouns plastic in the end. Maybe bear never took the air out but it was the same stuff. As for knowledge of consistency most of what happens is user error. And now there is a lot of information on the forum about these type of things. I flex my knowledge here to help not to sell.
  4. 2 points
    I bought some card stock at a local OfficeMax. I used a template from Avery.com that was the approximate size of the backing card I wanted and printed them on my printer, front and back. Cut them myself with a paper cutter. While they weren't totally professional, customers didn't seem to care as they had all the appropriate info. Card stock was less than $20, plus printer ink and your time.
  5. 2 points
    I think about any print shop could do it for you and might also be able to do some attractive logo or design work too. At minimum, you could go to a shop thst prints business cards and use those as your inserts. They’re cheap.
  6. 2 points
    Can we stop with the dick measuring competition that's going on and either get back on topic or close this thread down? We're all adults here, supposedly, so let's stop acting childish and represent ourselves and the bait making community in a way that we would be proud of.
  7. 2 points
    Remind me to not visit Wisconsin.
  8. 2 points
    I can only speak as a buyer, not a seller, but I like to be able to handle a bait in a clear plastic box so I can see what it’s like close up in detail before deciding whether it would be something I’d pay money for. A display case showing the available color schemes, or a color scheme chart is nice if you are more interested in later orders, but hands on is where it’s at for me.
  9. 2 points
    I don't know either, and I'm too cheap to buy one just to find out! Hahaha
  10. 2 points
    Tried to get that heated/torched look.
  11. 2 points
    Do-it has one like that called the weedless casting jig
  12. 2 points
    Are you interested to mylar glitter only, or to mylar net, too? For instance this is a pinkish mylar pipe and ... it is really simple to realize glitter from a mylar pipe with a good pair of scissors. Anyway you can find a lot of holographic mylar colors in pipe or sheet looking @ Fly Tying materials. Bye. Cami
  13. 2 points
    I agree with Pete. My guess is you will be very disappointed trying to get the pieces out of the mold and the mold won't last long. RTV is definitely you best option. Here's one we've just completed with a silicone mold. Even have the joint slots molded and the screwy eyes location so it's ready to go with just a little tweaking after it comes out.
  14. 2 points
    Pure pigments colours can be used in plastisol. For instance with Mica you can obtain a white pearlescent texture. In Artcraft Stores you can find iridescent pigment colours, too. They have two properties: they reflect one colour and refract another one. For instance one of most famous is green/violet. Bye. Cami
  15. 2 points
    Here is a link to a wood density chart I compiled earlier.
  16. 2 points
    Getting started will set you back 2-3 hundred bucks american. But the tough part is scaling down the spray gun for small stuff like lures. The ongoing cost isn't too bad , comes out to about a dollar a lure, if nothing goes wrong. Let's face it if I was trying to save money on lures I sure as heck would not spend hours and hours making them... As far as the silver fading; it really doesn't. It just has to be protected with the right clear coat. It can yellow though...to prevent that you just add a tiny amount of violet tint to the clear. I've been experimenting for a few years now and when it works ; you get an amazing looking lure. After all silver is the most reflective element on earth.... Its all about the satisfaction.....right? By the way, I would love some feed back from fellow lure makers, I just started a YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCS9izgLp6k7siMTMU21ZoNw (I don't sell anything or promote anything) It would be nice if you could tell me what you would like to see a video about.
  17. 2 points
    If I remember right, I believe I used Lure Craft's amber brown with just a pinch of gold hi-lite.
  18. 2 points
    I cure the paint by baking the heads in a toaster oven first. Once it's cool, I apply the electrical tape dots on the head, and then I clearcoat the head to keep the tape from wearing off. It looks really good. I've used them for kill spots and solid color 2d eyes. The vinyl tape comes in many colors, and it is cheaper than buying dots from WTP, and with the punch you can make any size you want.
  19. 2 points
    Just so you know what you are in for take some time and take a local college coarse on cnc basics. This will give you a better base line to start. Cause believe me it not the machine that makes the molds.
  20. 2 points
    It is easy to figure out. Add your material cost, then figure out your overhead by seeing the increase cost in your utility bills, it will only add 2 cents per item but it adds up. Then you have to add in the 10% FET tax and depending on the state you may also have to include sales tax and after all that is figured in you then decide what you want to charge for time. Figure out how long it takes you to make 1 jig from start to finish and then how many you can make per hour and how much you think your time is worth per hour and divide that into the number of jigs you can make in an hour and when you add all of the principles up it will give you a price.
  21. 2 points
    we use transtar. a quart with hardener is approx. 29.00 canadien funds. .it dries in 6 hours. finish is ultra clear and is u.v protected.
  22. 2 points
    Very nice jigs, what head is that? As for thread finish, I use either Loctite super glue brush on when using silicone or rubber skirts and I use Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails clear when I tie hair. The main reason is the clear nail polish leaves a very visible white residue when it dries on silicone. The Sally Hansen's brand clear is what I prefer, it takes a little longer than other brands to get hard so it penetrates deep and so far I haven't had any thread failures.
  23. 2 points
    I posted some new pics to the gallery. I would love to get some comments. Is this a citrus shad?
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    well irregardless. I still use etex..lol..we still spray auto clears and lacquers. mind you we have blower systems,rubber gloves etc..was a welder for a living...still here a senior still building lures everyday. 40 years and counting. an old friend that passed last year painted till 90 years old,died at 92. his averages were over 150,000 spoons stamped and painted yearly..,he never even had a blower system and heated with kerosene .
  26. 2 points
    Maybe you could call these people and ask them. Looks like they are the manufacturer.
  27. 2 points
    After all the years of being on this forum I have never seen someone post a formula for plastic. You did it just to help and I respect that. The original question was how to make it not the cost. You keep doing what you are doing and your help will come back to you in some form. This forum needs more people that are willing to share knowledge. To be honest it is probably the only post in years that I copy and pasted it to my notes. In fact I copy them both.
  28. 2 points
    The safest is to use KrylonCrystal Clear actylic from Michaels. It will not react with silicon and gives a fine spray sonpreserves your details. Coat your master with crazy glue and sand lightly with a fine grit this will stop the diners from raising in your wood. Epoxy will work with Tin Cure Silicone and it gives u the smoothest glassiest coat but takes away fine carving details. I do this all the time btw so this is Fact and tried and tested.
  29. 2 points
    I mix multiple colors to get the combinations I want. As long as you don't have lumps in the separate colors, you will wind up with a different shade/color. Just have to shake the mixture up really well.
  30. 2 points
    I've spoken to Pamela and yes she is very helpful. Problem is if you are going to sell items on a website you should have it in stock. I waited for 6 -9 months for them to run production on a concave worm weight. After this time I gave up because it still was not in production. My thought on this is if you can't keep your inventory up, then take it off your website. There were many people at one time looking for this mold. So what happened, anyone that had this mold and was selling it, price went thru the roof. All in all I got the mold on e-bay. They are hard to find and if you want one in good condition, you will pay for it dearly.
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
    I like Venture brand hvac tape and order it on EBay or Amazon. It has better gloss and can be found in various thicknesses. Thin tape is easier to burnish so make the edges disappear.
  33. 2 points
    Here are some of the jigs I have done so far with air brush paint heat foil holographic and kbs dipped
  34. 2 points
    The football head makes a good chatterbait or should I say "bladed jig" to keep the lawyers at bay...LOL!! I personally prefer the Trokar swim jig, but the football head is liked by those who want that knocking sound to be front and center. I've used it and what I can tell you is this, the swim jig head is nice and erratic and works being pulled though sparse sections of grass, the fooball head is erratic but a little less so, it takes more speed to get the same action as the swim jig. Where it shines is noise, you'll quickly notice how much contact the blade is making with the head as the ends of the football head will be chipped pretty well, and this is with the blade attached by split ring. If you are using a regular eye football head and attaching the blade direct to the hook eye I don't thing there would be enough blade movement for it to be worthwhile using but on a split ring it does make some noise.
  35. 2 points
    Hilites add an outer "skin" color to the baits. Here is grape with green hilite
  36. 2 points
    While it’s true that any little thing can change the swim performance of a crankbait, I would look at the things that have more basic effect before suspecting a thin coat of epoxy. Lip length, shape, position of the line tie, overall balance, ballast amount and position, and symmetry of the body and lip are major factors. That said, I never put epoxy on a lip because it has bad esthetic and performance effects. If you repainted a known good crankbait and now it won’t perform, maybe. If it’s an Asian knockoff bait or a custom bait you made, the problem probably lies elsewhere.
  37. 2 points
    A gallon for 50.00? You can buy in bulk for under 10.00.... Or from any reseller for 50.00 shipped, Well most...
  38. 2 points
    If you've never used hi-lites, they will change your life! Use them in small amounts (match head in 4 ounces of plastic.) I've never used Do-It brand, but I'm assuming they're all pretty close. They can be used in pretty much any color, but they are very effective in lighter colors. I used a ton of Lure Craft's minnow silver and added hi-lites to it most of the time. Light smoke is another one that hi-lites accent very well. Say if you're doing a laminate: pearl white belly and the top would be minnow silver with a touch of blue hi-lite. Voila.......Blue Ghost. Best thing to do is mess around with hi-lites and see what works for you. You can come up with some pretty amazing color combos!
  39. 2 points
    I do it all. I send them a disassembled lure and a working prototype along with the stl file.
  40. 2 points
    It can be hard to find the search feature on TU. Hover your mouse over ACTIVITY at the top right of this screen. When the drop down menu comes up, go to search at the bottom. Enter your keywords and hang on. Lots and lots of info. Welcome to the site. Perhaps, for sure I won't be trying to make my own.
  41. 2 points
    As chemicals go, etex is the same as other epoxies. The MSDS sheet says it may cause skin irritation and you should avoid breathing it’s mist. You can develop a skin sensitivity to liquid epoxy over time. Jmho, compared to many other clearcoat products, etex seems pretty tame and I certainly wouldn’t rate it “extremely toxic”.
  42. 1 point
    Have that covered. I wanted to display the bait samples and all the patterns out of the boxes. I'll figure something out. Thanks BobP
  43. 1 point
    I made and posted the first Divided Cup here at TackleUnderground. Still have it and it still works. I used the Original Cold-Weld Formula J-B Weld. Jig Man answers are good. Most of the heating and reheating is done in each colors own cup. I will add hot plastic to my divided cup, mixing the hot with the cooler plastic. I will blast the divided cup in the microwave for about 30 seconds if needed. You just need to find a system that works best for you. Have fun. Just make sure your aluminum is not shiny.
  44. 1 point
    I had a few silicone molds made by InShore tackle Company several years ago. They recommend using talc as a release agent. They also vented every mold they made for me.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    If you want to seal raw wood, have you tried runny superglue? Fumes are atrocious, so vent well. But advantages are: 1) penetrates, seals, and strengthens wood (heck - it turns balsa into concrete). 2) breaks off joints in swim bait easily. 3) provides a great base for paint - not too slick, even when sanded. 4) cure time is not bad.
  47. 1 point
    In case anyone's interested... https://finandflame.com/pflueger-american-spinner-lure/
  48. 1 point
    Hilts Molds http://www.hiltsmolds.com/HiltsMoldsOnlineStore.htm
  49. 1 point
    Well, Venture used to make a Brite-Bak tape designed for stained glass artists that was very thin, but has apparently stopped producing it. They make tapes in various thicknesses for different markets U.S.-Europe. I don’t remember all the thicknesses I saw on EBay, I just chose the thinnest which seems to be similar to the Brite-Bak and have been happy with it. It is much thinner than the generic hvac tape you find at local home centers. It has good adhesion and the edges can be burnished down to make them disappear, thin enough that I don’t need to epoxy over the edges to hide them before painting the bait, which is a big plus. But just thick enough that you can roll a fish scale texture into it. I apply the tape to a waterproof epoxy seal coat, texture it, and shoot my white acrylic color basecoat, then clean the foil with a Qtip dipped in denatured alcohol to remove the overspray and any tarnish that the foil has picked up. Then I add color to the bait. It comes out with a reflective scale sheen that I think is right for a baitfish. Not as much as chrome or holographic foil, but with plenty of reflectivity. Cleaning the foil with Qtips before adding color is sort of finnacky and I end up with a pile of 3-4 dirty Qtips for each bait, but I tend to be sloppy when shooting my color basecoat so it’s necessary for a good end result. Hope this helps.u Bob, that hula hoop tape looks pretty nice!
  50. 1 point
    I use approx. 12 gallons of etex yearly. yes wear rubber gloves. I have developed a sensitivity issue over the years. the itch will drive you crazy. ...Benadryl works to resolve itch.