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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    This is how I fix the Abrupt 90゚ angle in the tail portion of the mold
  2. 4 points
    I put the non pin side on some 1500 grit paper. I had colored it like suggested. All parts sanded so no apparent warp here. i took the pins out of the other side and put the 2sides together. PERFECT FIT. Put the pins back in and bad fit. I remembered Thai the pin had come out and I had put a dab of super glue on it. Who’a thunk that would be thick enough to make the pin too long. NOT ME. So I sanded off the glue and the “warped mold is fixed”. Sometimes I hate being a READY FIRE AIM guy.
  3. 4 points
    When it comes to dumb mistakes you’re not alone
  4. 3 points
    Walk the walk, Then talk the talk....put up or shut up, pick any saying you want and insert here.
  5. 3 points
    1. Nobody on here was the first person to paint a crankbait. Get over yourselves. You started at some point too. 2. You should be glad that custom baits are gaining in popularity because you have more competition on the equipment/supplies side. More competition means more innovation and possibilities. 3. Do you discredit an artist because he didn’t handcraft his canvas? What about a sculptor because he didn’t make his own clay? Where do you draw the line? If I cast my own crankbait blanks, can I call them custom...even though I didn’t invent the resin I used? Bottom line, you’re mad because other people are taking a piece of the pie. Welcome to capitalism. Like skeeter said, be the best and don’t worry about the rest. Row your own boat.
  6. 3 points
    We did a special order for them but we decided not to re-order. I do not now if Eagle Claw still making them. As for comparing them to the 32786 they really do not compare. The 32786 is a 60 degree hook and the 635 is a 90 degree hook so the are usually not interchangeable. Jon Barlow
  7. 3 points
    when you find your flat surface you can lay it on there and see if it rocks back and forth. if not then use a flash lite to shine between mold and flat surface , with lights in room turned down . Then you will have an idea where the highs and lows are . Also use a black sharpie to coat the surface of the mold to be sanded , after a couple swipes on the sand paper this will show where the highs and lows are for sure .
  8. 3 points
    In the late 90’s I bought a “garage built” balsa squarebill that had been touted by a pro on the Bassmasters circuit. Could not get it to run right and it took on water and self destructed in a single day of fishing. That’s when I decided to start making my own baits, and thinking about that lousy bait later, I believe its maker was a victim of his own success. It’s very hard to ramp up production and keep up quality at the same time. And it’s a business. If you can’t calculate all your costs of production and price them accordingly, you can’t make money on the baits and the more you sell, the faster you go broke.
  9. 3 points
    10,000 units a month is a good problem to have, but not an easy problem to deal with unless you are prepared for it. A stellar business plan is a must. Without one, you will fail! It doesn’t have to be 50 pages. A 1 pager will work, if enough thought is put into it. Capital and common sense are usually the biggest problems. Producing 10K units is not cheap. You have components, labor, (your time is not free), packaging, equipment maintenance, insurance, EDI costs, shipping, payroll/accounting, taxes, marketing, legal and others that I have missed. The best part is, big box stores are usually net 60 or 90. Ya, you don’t get paid for 2 or 3 months. In the beginning budgeting/timing is very important. Your good suppliers are your best friends and single points of failure are your worst. Sorry for the short synopsis
  10. 3 points
    I always add glitter after heating. In fact, on a new batch of plastic I'll take it up to 350, add my colorant and then wait for it to get down to 325 - 330 or so before I add glitter.
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    I believe the problem is in the different angles of the two wire shafts. The straight line of pull is from the line tie to the big blade, which means the small blade is coming through the water at an angle rather than straight through the water. Try the air pressure both from straight on and at a slight angle to see if that makes a difference.
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    Painting to appease fish is easy but to please fishermen that is another story. I am not to Dave’s black and white level but I believe contrast and patterns that make it pop are more important than life exact colour. When I had a trout farm I tested a lot of things with colour and patterns. My ponds were natural so they ranged from crystal clear to very little visibility depending on the time of year. I do believe in paying attention to what depth colours are effected and water clarity’s impact. I have also painted up two lures in the same pattern 1 in colour and the other in shades of grey. Depending on the conditions the grey lure will match or even beat the colour lure. I have done this for Lakers with a down rigger in crystal clear lakes and without a doubt some colours that make a difference depending on depth. That said stained or 100+ft it’s basically contrast of the pattern and the good old black or white lures shine Still try to make my lures look respectable and think the artistic talent displayed on lures looks awesome.
  15. 2 points
    Hey Voodoo, confusion is my job. Stay out of it Dave
  16. 2 points
    As your mold warms the worms will come out shinier and shinier. Pam helps too.
  17. 2 points
    Here is the metal tape on the outside of mold with a pin hole in it. Fixed my problems tail fills Perfectly every time now
  18. 2 points
    Wow... this was a great subject and thread. First I would like to say that for the most part this is a hobby for guessing 75% of the people on here. When its a hobby it is fun. When people start talking about and buying your bait it is exciting...... when the orders come in faster than you can produce....... the fun is gone and now it is a job!!... This happened to me on a crankbait I was making and I got burnt out and filled the orders I had and never answered another email order. Someone brought up "Chatterbait"..... what a great example. RAD lures was Ronald Anthony Davis and he worked on this bait for years. Although some "pros" were using it, it really got it start when Brian Thrift won a Stren series event on Okeechobe in 2006. The orders poured in and that is when Z-man came into the picture. I am sure that Ronny Davis was excited he created a lure that brought so much recognition, but I don't think he was prepared or had the capability to fill the "gold rush". Vodkaman, your idea is interesting and intriguing to say the least, and it was a great thread to read. Maybe some will create that "special" bait and take you up on your suggestion. Here is a link to the Chatterbait story and if you want to build that next "great" bait, you need to read it. I promise it won't happen overnight!! https://www.bassmaster.com/gear/lets-chat-about-chatterbaits
  19. 2 points
    As some of you know, I design lures and paint schemes for Bass Pro Shops. Bass Pro has many patents on some of the lures I designed. China has copied many of them and released them for sale. Its just not worth the money to fight them overseas. Here is a perfect example: https://patents.google.com/patent/US8789308?oq=tim+hughes+segmented+fishing+lure There are many copies of this lure for sale on ebay and other places.
  20. 2 points
    Here's a couple of Lurecraft silicone open pour molds I modified to hold a weighted swimbait hook.
  21. 2 points
    Check out Lurecraft. They have several open pour molds that are what you desire. From there you’ll have to get creative on what hooks and what you do with them. Plastisol, glitter and or pigment, a few 1 cup glass measuring cups and a microwave specifically for plastic only and you’ll be good to go.
  22. 2 points
    Ya I would guess an amber and darken to match
  23. 2 points
    I remelt em to cubes
  24. 2 points
    When using Rod Bond paste epoxy, how many lips etc you can do in about an hour or maybe as long as 1 1/2 hour is its only limitation. I appreciate the stuff because it allows me plenty of time to tweak lip positions as many times as my OCD makes me. And it doesn’t require any heroic measures or techniques to keep its pot life very long. I also don’t have to worry too much about getting lip slots cut to just the right thickness. After the slot is filled with epoxy its gel texture will hold a lip in place whatever the slot thickness.
  25. 2 points
    Its been on my mind lately, and wanted to start a thread about safety regarding our various resins we use with hard baits. I personally have developed a sensitivity to certain resins and upon further research I fault myself for not using better precautions. The fastest way to end one's lure making days is to develop a sensitivity to one of the chemicals used in bait making so I will give my lessons learned with safety and encourage others to give their lessons learned. First, polyurethanes use a toxic chemical known as methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) which is usually the yellow or darked tinted liquid in two part mixes. The clear liquid is usually a diol compound similar to antifreeze and is less toxic. Studies have found nearly everyone can eventually become sensitized to MDI with enough time. 2-8 years of low chronic exposure to MDI will result in 25% or higher likelihood of sensitization. Of those sensitized, 60% will retain the symptoms of sensitization for life, even when permanently removed for ALL exposure. Recently it has been learned that dermal contact with isocyanates can be as dangerous or even more dangerous than inhalation. You may not have realized that spraying an auto clear without a mask is as dangerous as spilling uncured resin on your skin. Second, epoxies usually contain triamines and/or formaldehyde and have caused even worse sensitizations than with isocyanates in studies with Guinea Pigs. Everything above applies but even more severe. Third, microballoons are borosilicate glass and when inhaled chronically can cause silicosis (permanent scarring of the lungs). I work in the abrasives/grinding industry and have personally viewed ceramic dust under a SEM, and have seen many particles often as small as 1 micron by 4 microns. Hence, your dust mask and/or filter is not removing them. When you sand microballoon filled resin your dust mask is not enough. To protect yourself when pouring resins, at a minimum, you should: [1] Work in a well ventilated area [2] Wear nitrile gloves and long sleeve shirt (no exposed skin) [3] Use a vent hood when pouring/sanding/mixing resins or use a full air supplied respirator [4] Never heat any resin without industrial equipment designed for such a purpose [5] Forget about "it won't happen to me" because it will, given enough chronic exposure [6] Remember that even organic respirators do not remove isocyanate vapors Any other stories/suggestions?
  26. 2 points
    Yes, the brand is Rod Bond epoxy and its sold online at Rod building sites like Mudhole. It comes in two varieties. A regular slow cure and a fast 20 minute variety. I prefer the slow cure because I build baits in small batches and the slow cure has a work time of at least an hour, which gives me plenty of time to tweak lip positions. I’m not in any hurry and slow cure epoxies have one big advantage: they are always stronger than fast cure varieties.
  27. 2 points
    What Is Patent Infringement? When someone sells, imports, uses, or makes a product that someone else invented without permission, patent infringement has occurred. From here: https://www.upcounsel.com/patent-infringement While Zman likely wouldn't go after a guy in his garage making a couple of baits for personal use, it is still patent infringement.
  28. 2 points
    when saving left overs .... keep 4 different bags or containers 1-- blacks - when remelting add black color 2-- greens- when remelting add green pumpkin color 3- browns- when remelting add your favorite brown -- Pumpkin -- 4- purples / reds - when remelting add purple then you can have 4 different colors of remelts not just 1 also I do not save any pearls or whites ,, - white will yellow on to many remelts .. pearls add a pearl look to the batch of any color,, I do not like it.. but that's just me .
  29. 2 points
    Smalljaw. I certainly will. I mainly target pike so build my baits with1/2oz 5/8 and 3/4 oz heads to stabilize the larger blades that I like to use. 7,6,5's. It will be interesting to see how everything turns out with this style head.If it works I will also try to down size the blades and wire frame for shallower fishing and a different fish chasing bait presentation. Starting holidays tomorrow for a month so lots of time building/finishing and yes even fishing. Correction on the previous note : should read hobby addiction. Thanks again for your continued support and for doing so many great videos. I have learned a ton of stuff from your efforts and you have advanced my building style/comfort level immensely. Thanks to all whom endlessly contribute to the betterment of this craft and great site.
  30. 2 points
    Thanks guys for your insight and opinions. i like the tubing idea for a test spacer to see if I can get the blade rotation to start and hold up. I was thinking along the lines of using a thread ball and changing its position on the shaft to get this figured out. If that works I will use a thread ball and a heavy chenille yarn ball winding and add scent to it as an added attractant. The two blade upper wire is definitely an awesome rebuild idea. I will post my results once I get a chance to get back to these. As always you guys and this site are top notch.Can't say enough about being able to be a part of it as a member and hopefully contribute to this great hobby addition. Cheers.
  31. 2 points
    If needed I just tape the bottle to my Sawzall blade put it on slow and shake the heck out of it. Wayne
  32. 2 points
    I have rocked the one side and it seems high in the middle. I will pull the pins and check the other side.
  33. 2 points
    My empty MM 30 bucket weighs 16.45 0z with about two tablespoons of residue in the bottom and the lid. Hope this helps.
  34. 2 points
    This is the inherent beauty in making your own you can make them anyway you want. I have learned over the years of tweaking my stick formula that I change my recipe as to time of year . In the summer months I do... 4 oz ss m n f plastic 1 tablespoon of salt 2 tablespoons of glass media 1 tablespoon of softner yes they are one hit wonders. In the cooler months I use the recipe I first posted. Now if I use all glass media is both recipes I don’t add softener at all I don’t need to and it makes for a much more durable bait . I fish a wacky rig ALOT ! Did I say a lot? weighted jig head or hook only. My favorite is a 4 incher. I can tell I have it right when I pull it through the water and you can feel the ends pulsate. It took me 6 years of trial and error to get where I wanted them but I would take the “Pepsi challenge” any day with GYB ! Crap I’m showing my age! Heck I prefer mine and so do most of my fishing buddies. I guess what I’m trying to say is the first one I posted is a good starting point and you can pretty much take it from there only you know exactly what you’re looking for . I will say one last thing don’t get too hung up on trying to make it exactly like Gary Yamamoto’s i’ve had more success with different formulas than with the original . Tight lines!
  35. 2 points
    I closely inspected the mold. There is no apparent corner damage. When I assemble it and press it together there is a slight gap either at a top corner or the opposite bottom corner. So I guess I may be back to.Bass-Boys sanding idea. One of my fishing buddies used to own a cabinet shop. I’m going to try to get his assistance with this problem.
  36. 2 points
    This goes back away maybe 60's, that a guy was building great rods and sold to a major retailer and as time went buy ………..cheaper & cheaper and faster the guy went out of business SAD. So how big is big its tough. I think there comes a time when enough is enough and make your own rules, if your product is really great two choices limited supply or license it out and take your monthly check or just watch someone knock it off SAD, but that's life. Do your best so knockoff's can't make as good as yours. If it becomes a great lure don't worry you will sell and at your price. Good luck to all that get into this crazy world no matter what the product is. Wayne
  37. 2 points
    Bob do you remember a jig company call ProPoint Jigs that was made in Winston Salem back in the late 80's early 90's? He was selling to WalMart in W.S. They ended up putting the guy out of business due to wanting more and paying less for the jigs.Even if I ever decided to go that route Walmart would never b on I would sell to. When I had my tackle shop in the late 90's I couldn't even compete with the prices that Walmart was selling the same stuff as me.
  38. 2 points
    You have the shooting star from Bear, where he added the manifold and injector from Ultra Molds to a set of presto pots and stirring setup. I have one of the first ones he sold here (hasn't been used in several years) and I'm not a big fan personally, never did like the presto pots. Get ahold of Rupert at Ultra Molds and he can get you the teflon o-ring
  39. 2 points
    I think putting the design on computer was the biggest help to me in making lures. If you sketch it, scan the sketch to a file, copy/paste the design, so you have 2, flip one horizontally so you have a template for each side, a top view and bottom view template are also useful. You can just reprint the file and have the body profile, lip shape, hardware attachment points, location of ballast on a piece of paper you can cut into a template. You can put any notes in the file like amount of ballast, wire/screws used. Try to find an easy way to get the same shape and weight ballast every time. Search Mark Poulson's posts about ballast. I don't like pouring lead. Finding a 1/4" diameter lead wire you can cut to a set length greatly speeds up making a bait. I agree with ultimately trying to get to make lures from a resin or even PVC boards (see the pinned post). Wood can vary (grain, density, buoyancy, moisture content) from piece to piece and even within the same the same piece. I wish I had focused more of my early efforts in body materials other than wood. Resins and PVC are less subject to water penetration and expanding/contracting in different temperatures. Expansion/contraction of wood can make the clear coat crack. Making one master to make a mold is easier in the long run. Non-wood bodies are more durable. I also think I focused too much on the paint job at first. Now, I make the lure, seal it, attached hardware, and test before I waste time on painting a dud. Supreglue makes a good quick sealer for testing. Some of my most effective lures are all white or all black If you want to see a reputable handmade lure, look at Mike Shaw's MS Slammer. There are a few models that range on the larger side. I have several and really like them. Last note, never underestimate the importance of safety (eye protection, a good mask, gloves, hearing protection, proper vetilation ). Most people, including myself, lose focus on safety over time. Imagine being in the ER with- a piece of a Dremel disk in your eye, lungs full of sanding dust and paint particles, a missing finger from the saw, burns on your feet from pouring lead in sandals, etc.
  40. 2 points
    +1, but I added glitter before heating and never had a problem. Either your plastic is too hot or it's low quality glitter. As mentioned, stay away from craft store stuff.
  41. 2 points
    That said. a 4 ounce jar sold on volume should be full tho. Or close to it, Those jars are larger then stated for obvious reasons tho.
  42. 2 points
    Yes that is exactly right a volume is not the same as weight. Glow powder is heavy so you will get what looks like a half bag but the weight will be there. Most people that sell this stuff know there is a difference in product and price it accordingly.
  43. 2 points
    I an into the same thing. I was told that the jars are measured by volume not weight, meaning fluid ounces. So now I buy glitter and hi-lite by the half pound or heavier and ask if it is weighed. Lure Craft seems to do a pretty good job on the heavier weights.
  44. 2 points
    I am no camera man or YouTube guy so not a huge help. Two things as a viewer work on stable footage and don’t use footage that has poor fish handling (example bass flopping on the ground) some fishermen will jump all over you for it. If you can keep stable clear footage and keep things interesting people will watch. Add some humour and show your own unique personality well out fishing it will help you stand out good luck
  45. 2 points
    Plaster is a cheap way to get into mold making and it is available locally. Go to Home Depot and get water putty. It works like plaster of Paris but is stronger. The bull worm is a good worm to start with because it has a flat side. This is what I do but there are variations that will work as well. You will develop your own process if you keep making molds. My process may take longer than others but being retired, I don't rush anything. Go fishing if you can't keep yourself from fiddling with the mold. Superglue the flat side down to a container. I use the Styrofoam containers meat is packaged in at the supermarket. Mix up the putty and cover the glued down bait. Let it dry overnight and carefully remove the mold from the rest of the pieces. The mold has to dry and then be sealed. Some people put them in their vehicle this time of year to do this. I usually set the mold on top of my oil fired furnace and wait a week. Once dry, you can seal it in a number of ways. I prefer to use Elmers white glue that is thinned with water to a 50 - 50 mix. Pour it in to fill the mold cavity, let it sit five minutes and pour the glue out. I like to take some of the glue being poured out and wipe it on the surface of the mold with my hand. I set the mold upside down on newspaper with wooden skewers as spacers to keep the mold off the newspaper. Let it sit overnight and remove the now stuck on skewers. Roll them to release rather than pull them off. Let the mold dry another day and it is ready to use. As I implied above, you can find ways to speed it up if you want to.
  46. 2 points
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Thanks that is a good idea and one that I had not thought of.
  49. 1 point
    As Blackjack says..."Bondo is your friend"...been using this method for the last five or so years on my PVC Azek lures...easy to apply easier than most other options to sand smooth...iv'e had zero issues ...just my 2 cents...michel...Go Fish!!!
  50. 1 point
    With small lures, members discovered that very thin fiber/circuit board lips were more effective than thicker Lexan lips in creating waggle action. The thinner the lip, the better the action. The reason for this has not been discussed much, if at all. It is all about the sharp edge. Water can flow around a round object with minimum 'peeling off' of the flow, thus minimum disturbance of the water. Conversely, flow cannot negotiate a sharp corner; it cannot change direction that quickly. This causes a low pressure area behind the edge of the lip. Water gets sucked back into this low pressure area and thus the vortex is born. At very slow speeds, the shape of the water flow is symmetrical, the same both sides of the lure. But, as the lure speed increases, a certain speed is reached were the vortices start to interact. There is not enough room for the vortices to exist independently so they take turns. The vortices start to alternate, forming one side then the other. This effect is called ‘vortex shedding’, a ‘vortex street’ or ‘Kármán vortex street’. This alternating vortex is the engine that drives the lure, causing the desirable ‘waggle’ or action of the lure. This also explains why a lure has a minimum speed before the action starts. The sharper the edge is, the stronger the low pressure area, the stronger the vortex and therefore the stronger the action. Larger lures in the range of 8” and larger will require a thicker lip in order to survive bouncing off rocks with all that body weight behind. But the thicker lip is not going to produce as much action as the knife edge lip of the 3” lure. The solution is to cut a chamfer behind the lip face. This reintroduces the knife edge and improves the vortex strength and thus the action. Another way to improve action is to make the face of the lip concave. This causes pressure to build up in front of the lip which further increases the strength of the vortex. Here is a video that shows vortex shedding, and the start transition explaining the minimum speed. Dave
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