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  1. 7 likes
    There are a lot of different coatings used to seal (undercoat) and topcoat wood baits. It's a matter of how complicated and expensive you want to make it. One of the simplest regimens I can think of is to finger coat the raw balsa with some liquid superglue to stiffen and strengthen the wood surface, apply a coat of D2T to waterproof the surface, lightly sand, paint, then apply a coat of D2T as a topcoat. That minimizes the number of coatings you need to acquire and yields a pretty durable bait. There are many liquid epoxies on the market. D2T is a popular choice but other slow cure (aka 30 minute epoxies), either designed for glues or decoupage crafts will work. Each has its peculiarities, good points, bad points, etc. They all usually require rotation for an hour or two after application to promote leveling and avoid drips and sags. It's also a matter of how patient you can be when making a bait. There are optional coatings you can use like uv cured polyurethane resins (Solarez, AlumiUV) that cure in a few minutes, moisture cured urethane that you can dip and hang up to dry/cure (KBS Diamond Coat, Dick Nite S81),etc. You need to read up on the options to choose what is best for you and the way you make lures.
  2. 7 likes
    wrong, you might wait. but not all of them wont answer or call you back..
  3. 6 likes
    I have started receiving complaints from TU members about business owners, tackle supply retailers, lure parts companies and others spending time here in the forums with a single motive; selling TU members their goods or services. This message serves as notice to everyone that this will STOP here and now! TU is not a venue for ANYONE to spend time hanging out here, trying to sell their products to people. It is a place where people come to learn from other lure makers. Any company who has people here and is actively soliciting TU members, be forewarned that your accounts are in danger of being permanently banned! I don't take this lightly and you shouldn't either! So if you happen to be one of those people who has been becoming more active here for the sole purpose of trying to reel in new customers, put an end to it now. If you want to share your knowledge with others without mentioning your company and without offering to "help" them with their problem by offering to sell them something, then feel free to continue to to participate here. I will be keeping a close eye on this and TU members will also be watching and if they see anything going on that is outside of these guidelines, it will be passed along to me. Once again, accounts of guilty parties will be permanently banned if this continues after today!
  4. 5 likes
    Thin CA (superglue) makes a good sealer, and only takes minutes before you can float test. Spread it with your finger and use acetone for clean-up. Don't float test without sealing, the body will soak up some water which will come back to bite you later on; that extra moisture that you have locked in will swell the bait if you leave it in the sun for ten minutes and possibly split the topcoat. Dave
  5. 5 likes
    I use hand wound screw eyes, make them longer than normal, then install them into drilled holes with paste epoxy. Whatever way you install screw eyes in balsa, pull-out is usually not a problem but water infiltration can be. Installing them before you start the finish process is definitely helpful. Now, if you are building musky crankbaits as your name suggests, you'll be held to a higher standard of strength and waterproofness due to wear and tear. Maybe a thru-wire would save a big musky getting off by snapping your lure in half. The lure would be useless afterward but at least that big one might not get away. In the end, it's player's choice
  6. 5 likes
    Yes, while majority has been US, there has been a strong worldly presence (to our benefit) ever since the beginning. Just from above conversation, Hiro was Japanese, Divani was from Belgium I think, LaPala was from Malaysia, Pete's from Down Under. Other old old timers from TM or the Tu start that I recall were PhilB from U.K., as is Dave. (Now Philippines). Vytautas was Lithuanian I think. Dieter German, Swede (RIP) Swedish, and LureProfessor (who came up in a thread recently) is another Aussie. I'm sure there was a ton more that I can't recall. Of course we are still trying to figure out what planet Nathan came from! Maybe it's like pro wrestling: "From Parts Unknown.." Many countries have either dedicated lure building forums or categories in their fishing forums. Lure Building is a common ground that we all share Craig
  7. 5 likes
    I want to remind everyone that photos uploaded to ANY of the galleries here at Tackle Underground should not be explicit or crude. During the past few days we have had at least two different images uploaded for the contest that depicted male and female genitals and/or intimate body parts. This is NOT acceptable content. Some users reported this content and it has been removed, and rightfully so. These forums and this community are here for the good and education of everyone, regardless of whether they are 14 or 74, or older than 74. Material should be posted with that in mind, keeping it clean and family-friendly. Parents have enough to worry about their kids seeing on the internet. Viewing images in a fishing tackle forum should not be one of thise things they have to worry about. Your help with sticking to these guidelines are appreciated and this will be enforced, moving forward. Infractions of this will result in warnings being issued. Thanks for your cooperation.
  8. 4 likes
    Comments on some of your questions: tung oil is good stuff but it takes weeks to become really hard. A coat of Etex would be a lot faster and just as good or better. I don't know of any ready built lure turners. Just about everyone builds their own using slow speed ac motors like from a rotisserie, a microwave, etc. it took me about an hour to build mine with a piece of wood shelving, a dowel rod, a couple of washers, a 6 rpm motor, and some alligator clips. It's lasted for 15 years so far. Polycarbonate is a lot more durable than plastic so you can use thinner sheets of it. Think function over form. I wouldn't want to weight a lure down with hugely thick Lexan just because the lure I'm copying has a thick plastic lip. I mostly use 1/16" thick Lexan on my lures. Keep the protective backing on the Lexan until you are ready to buff the edges clear. I use a Dremel with a felt polishing cylinder to buff. A cylindrical body will rotate from the torque of a prop. Ballast will counteract it, as will using props that rotate in opposite directions. Hope this helps.
  9. 4 likes
    Jon Barlow has done a lot of work to find suitable alternative hooks and lists the hooks that fit each mold on his website. It's a really nice resource. Thanks Jon!
  10. 4 likes
    Sorry. Still working on it. Everyone's patience is appreciated. One user sent me a nasty email. This isn't necessary and doesn't get things fixed any faster. Again, your patience is appreciated. Thank you
  11. 4 likes
    The argument is that Createx paints are stiffer and will crack under bending and even reduce bending. BUT, if you are not heat setting the paint and successfully applying a clear dip and the bait flexes well, then why not. If it works for you then go for it. The life of a soft bait is not intended to be more than perhaps a few fish, so I do not see any other issues to stop you. Dave
  12. 3 likes
    All good answers and I understand grain runs front to back, but it should also run horizontally instead of vertically. The screw eyes should go in through multiple layers of grain rather than running between two layers of grain. Works easy for bottom hooks, but front and back not so much so try to angle front and back screw (up or down) so it goes through more than one layer of wood grain. A screw going in following the wood grain tends to push those two wood grains apart. Belly hook going through multi layers tends to hold wood grain layers together. A good idea on front and back screws is to drill larger hole and fill with epoxy so screws don't have a wedge effect.
  13. 3 likes
    I tried applying nail polish before fishing. Fish didn't seem to mind - but my skirt kept getting tangled on the trolling motor.
  14. 3 likes
    I wouldn't worry about finding the "top" of the lure. I just worry about the grain running front to back, and don't bother trying to find the "top" of the bait. Even if I don't add ballast, the hooks and hook hangers will overcome any differences in the bait's flotation. I make my wooden baits with a dropped belly, so the belly hook hanger ballast is really low in them. My spooks have enough ballast toward the tail to keep them sitting true in the water.
  15. 3 likes
    Maybe this will help. BUSINESS – PLASTISOL BRAND SOLD – BUSINESS LOCATION - WEBSITE ADDRESS BAITJUNKY’S – CALHOUN’S – GEORGIA – http://www.shopbaitjunkys.com/Liquid-Plastisol_c_7.html BARLOW’S TACKLE – MF – TEXAS – http://www.barlowstackle.com/Worm-Making-Materials-brPlastic-Hardener-Color-Etc-C188.aspx BASSTACKLE – MF – ARIZONA – http://www.basstackle.com/category_s/112.htm BEAR’S BAITS – CALHOUN’S – LOUISIANA – http://www.bearsbaits.com/Liquid-Plastics_c_1.html CHEMIONICS – THEIR BRAND – OHIO – http://www.chemionics.com/pdfs/Soft_Plastic_Fishing_Lures_Brochure.pdf DO-IT MOLDS – CRYSTAL CLEAR / ESSENTIAL – IOWA – http://store.do-itmolds.com JANN’S NETCRAFT – LURECRAFT – OHIO – http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Search/PLASTISOL.aspx JACOB’S BAITS – MF – OHIO – www.jacobsbaits.com LURECRAFT – THEIR BRAND – INDIANA – http://www.lurecraft.com/SOFT-PLASTIC-BAIT-MAKING-PRODUCTS/departments/1/ LUREPARTS ON LINE – LURECRAFT/MF/DO-IT – ILLINOIS – http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Plastic-and-Additives/ LUREWORKS (SPIKE-IT) – THEIR BRAND – GEORGIA – https://ispikeit.com/category/68 MF – THEIR BRAND – TEXAS – http://pouryourownworms.com/ OZARK TACKLE – UNKNOW BRAND – MISSOURI – http://ozarktackle.com/plastisol.html POLYSOL – THEIR BRAND – MISSOURI – http://polysolpolymers.com/lure-plastisol-buy-now ZEINER’S – MF – KANSAS - http://zeiners.com/mfsupplies.html Rick
  16. 3 likes
    My first attempt at making a shad look alike. Made from cedar with circuit board bill.
  17. 3 likes
    That is a great idea! It's on my project list for today!!! I'm going to use wire wrap, and coat with super glue. Just try not to get the hooks too hot, or they will lose their temper and soften.
  18. 3 likes
    Thanks guys I am honored to take 1st place in the homemade hard bait category...especially with the plethora of wonderful baits entered. Thanks to the staff for all of their hard work and I can't wait to come up with another entry for next year. Thanks again. Brandon Nelson
  19. 3 likes
    Congratulations to the winners.......and all participants. The talent here is OFF. THE. CHARTS!!
  20. 3 likes
    WOW!!! With all of the beautifully tied flies that were entered in TU's contest I can't , WOW, 1st place, I don't know what to say !!! Considering the amount of talent displayed by the other tiers I feel honored, thank you very much! WOW, I still can't believe it! Congratulations to all the winners, of the various categories, you deserve it! Wow, this is so cool, thanks!!! john
  21. 3 likes
    I do not like to hang jigs in the toaster oven to cure the powder paint. I tried to make a holder out of 3/4 inch aluminum angle, but the jigs would slip around as I was trying to tighten the two thumb screws to hold them in place. Today I had an idea to add magnetic strips to the aluminum angle. It worked really well with the 1/8, 1/16 and 1/32 jig heads ( I have not tried it with the bigger heads yet). I used magnetic strips that are used to hold up posters on display boards. They are peel and strip, but I used high temperature RTV (from Lowes in the grill section) to hold the magnetics on the aluminum. In the picture the jig heads are being held in place by the magnetics and the thumb screws have not been tightened. Thought some others may be interested
  22. 3 likes
    I finally figured the turning red issues out with spikeits violet 193 colorant. I stayed with the same exact recipie which was 6 drops in 4 ounces of plastic. Then heated for 1 minute & stirred then heated for 15 seconds & stirring & then heating another 15 seconds & stirring again, but then after thinking about it being heat sensitive like some of you all said i threw it in very cold ice water as soon as i took it out of the mold. Within 2 minutes i saw a huge difference with way less of a red tint. I hung the baits up in my unheated garage & in a couple of hours when i looked at them again they looked completely normal with a good dark body which let the glitter look exactly like it does with every other color i make & the appendages have a kind of ultraviolet purple look i was wanting.I actually thought about trashing this colorant because it was driving me out of my mind lol , but i was bound & determined to do everything i could to figure it out & glad i did. Thanks guys for all the help & suggestions. I appreciate it.
  23. 3 likes
    smooth on mold star 30
  24. 3 likes
    I continually wonder why does one always post to a forum (any forum) when they have a problem ordering from a company (any company)? Would it not be just as easy to contact the company (verse posting to a forum) and ask them what the problem was? I just had an order that went missing with a company, a quick call and they found it and next day aired it no charge. And remember "attitude" will always affect the outcome!
  25. 3 likes
    I'm pretty sure the bottom one is a ruler.
  26. 3 likes
    Mr. B I always run all my powder paint through a sifter to break up any clumps before I use it.
  27. 3 likes
    Made this beauty...simple design. But it's awesome when you take it out for a test run and it gets smacked around. LoL....looks like I'll be making 60 more now that I know gets bit!
  28. 3 likes
    I haven't found any problems with powder on blades with my spinners - if you brush tap them as it uses less powder.
  29. 3 likes
  30. 3 likes
    Been dabbing at this project between 14 hour work days for about a month now... Finally have something to show for it! Master was carved from pine.. Bb's made bumps on the back and beads made the big eye balls... Legs made from drinking straws, feet cut from crafting foam Mold is 2 piece pop with a custom carved insert... After shooting, the insert is removed, the hole left is sealed by pinching the belly shut and pouring hot plastic directly in the.... Well... Butt hole The frog easily floats a 4/0 hook... Green pumpkin seemed to me a pretty "froggy" color, so thats what i went with.... Cant wait to try em out!
  31. 3 likes
    At this time The createx is sticking to the soft Plastic. In the photos you can see the paint I used. Its not Cracking or Pulling away. Again I am just experimenting here and appreciate the comments. These are the results Im getting. I did not use Heat Stabalizer just straight up Bait Junkys from the jug. I will attempt to do a video to further show everyone what I see on my end. Im just doing this for fun/Hobby www.ultimatepredators.com
  32. 3 likes
    Use it to make an ice fishing rod.
  33. 2 likes
    Insight: I use dollar store nail polish, and find anything with a clear, like glittered polish, holds up fine without a top coat. I also find that putting a color like red holds up if it cures for a day. I threw a spinnerbait with a red nail polish chin through tulles all day yesterday, and it held up with no clear over it. When I put glo powder into clear to coat the inside/cupped/concave faces of my spinnerbait blades, I put a coat of clear with In The Spotlight Sally Hansen polish over it to protect it, and to add flash. Generally speaking, anything with a strong solid color will be softer, because there is less of the clear base in it. In that way it's similar to air brush paints. But a coat of any clear polish over it will make it "bullet proof". Just load the brush, so you don't have to brush so hard and often you wind up softening the color you're trying to cover.
  34. 2 likes
    Put a top and a fan on that sucka and you are good to go. You can vent it through a dryer vent or window. The lures look good. Top coat will bring out the depth in your color. Use 30 minute epoxy, not 5 minute. Normally pictures showcasing ones work are posted in the gallery with a link in forums. Noobs should get a mulligan, imho.
  35. 2 likes
    Well here is my fist attempt at a rainbow trout pattern. First time using a airbrush is a little intimidating. I practiced for a little bit on a piece of pvc pipe and said what the heck, lets give it a whirl. Each color seemed to spray a different which from what I read isn't uncommon. Thanks for the help that you guys offered.
  36. 2 likes
    Lots of threads on the subject..... The short and sweet version for the average hobbyist (not wanting to spend money) there is not a product you can use to get the desired effect as they all go to pot with our top coats. HVAC Foil tape the most economical way for the average guy to get similar results. Some of the big box store spray paints get some use but I don't find them being really use able especially if selling. Alsa products, Spaz Stix and Cosmichrome also usually end up in these threads. Foil techniques and then electroplating usually gets mentioned also as they progress.
  37. 2 likes
    Mark, the answer is simply this. Powder curing or baking depends upon heat to cross link its chemical properties. Baking the jigs makes the powder paint adhere to the surface it is applied to. If you take 2 jigs and paint them then you bake one, the baked one if done correctly will not chip.
  38. 2 likes
    I use it, and it works fine for both plastic and PVC blanks. I used it on a balsa bait, too, after I seal the balsa with super glue. The Createx paints I use bond to it just fine, once it's cured. I typically do two coats, waiting 15 minutes between coats, and then let them cure for 24 hours. I spray outside, because it has fumes, and put the wind at my back. I could spray inside with a respirator, but it's easy to just step outside to do it. I bring them inside to cure when it's cold in the garage. I use the X2 Gloss Clear for a top coat, two coats, and follow the same steps. Works for me.
  39. 2 likes
    I never permanently glue my master. I usually just use 2-sided tape to hold it in place and create a silicone mold. Then if I need copies of the master I cast them using a casting resin which is a 2-part urethane resin that sets up to a hard plastic and turns from transparent to sort of an off-white color when it sets. I also don't use glass together with silicone because silicone sticks very strongly to glass. A mold release agent on the glass could be used but I just use a plastic cutting board and the silicone never sticks to that. Look for "casting resins" to make copies of masters. They have almost no shrinkage, cure quickly, and are lower viscosity (almost like water) so they are really easy to pour and capture every detail with.
  40. 2 likes
  41. 2 likes
    Go to clear bags,you can order as little or as many,cheaper the more you order,I get mine from there ,you will have the up front fee for color plates,I get mine for a round 10 cents each for 5000
  42. 2 likes
    We pour thousands of baits for our customers,Ive tried them all!!Lurecraft for us,very high heat resistant,we cook with 4 1000 watt mics set on high and this stuff doesn't yellow,and its tough!!
  43. 2 likes
    Clemmy, if they ever figure out where I'm from..please let me know..lol...Nathan
  44. 2 likes
    If your stock starts out rectangular, why not just set the saw blade at the angle and height you want, and lay the blank against the miter fence with a sacrificial wooden extension with a stop block? That way you can have multiple sacrificial fence extensions for different lip slot angles and heights.
  45. 2 likes
    Ordered some eyes weeks ago myself. Received the email below, also received the same message on my ebay account. i've since asked for a refund to no avail. just today i submitted another request for refund, i'll see how that goes. Thank You for placing an order with bustinbassbaits. My name is Keith, I am the brother of the owner/operator of bustinbassbaits. My brother (Bryan) has been physically unable to run the company since Thursday Feb. 16th. He will not be able to operate the company any longer, but I am working toward taking over the business for him. Your patience and understanding are greatly appreciated during this transitional period. Bryan is O.K. but his current condition has really taken a toll on our family. As I write this I don”t have access to his email account, his website, his Ebay store, or his shop where bustinbassbaits works out of. I got your information through his PayPal account, which I do have access to. Again, I am working toward taking over the company as best I can but it is a process that will take some time. I’m hoping everything regarding the company can be sorted out in the next couple of weeks and I can begin filling orders for shipping. I’m sure you will have no problems getting a refund for your purchase if that’s what you would like. Please don’t hold this delay in processing your order against the company. Customer service is our highest priority. Thanks again for your patience and understanding. Sincerely, Keith
  46. 2 likes
    Thanks for the comments. As Woodie mentioned, I have some .062 SS wire that am using as the line tie and hook hangers. In the pics I just have them stuck into the clay to get an idea as to how the bait will look. I have an internal harness that I formed and intend to place it in the mold prior to pouring the resin. Does the harness look like it will work Woodie? It is as symmetrical as I can get it by hand sanding. Once I get it poured I hope to find the balance point and place the weights. I still have to order the resin and microballoons. I think I will stick with this simple shape on my first attempt. I plan to airbrush the scales, gills and other details. Thanks for the help.
  47. 2 likes
    Thank you sir!...I tried to get it as close as I could to a live trout!
  48. 2 likes
    Not cheap, but you could try the Grammy Nano Finesse.. You didn't say which KVDs you were using. The 2x short should be lighter. There's a lot of JDM finesse trebles but then you're back into some more money.
  49. 2 likes
  50. 2 likes