Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 04/26/2017 in all areas

  1. 7 likes
    HAND CARVING YOUR OWN FISHING LURES Do you have an idea for a “new and improved” lure or an oldlure that’s not available anymore? Or would you just like to copy another lureand make some modifications to it? That’s not a problem any longer. I'm going toshow you in the following steps how to hand carve your own custom lures. If you follow the steps below, you'll find outthat it's really not a hard thing to do and you can step away from repaintingother people’s lures. I’ll start by selecting a pattern for my lure. This can be apattern that somebody else has drawn up or I can create my own pattern. I usecardboard for my lure patterns. I then write on my pattern any informationabout that lure such as: location of hook hangers, location and amount ofweight for the lure, thickness of the lure, eye placement, lip angle and type,and any other pertinent information. That way the information is always handy.I also cut the lip slot into the pattern. Select the wood that you want to use to carve your crankbaitout of. Here, I'm using Paulownia. I have several boards that I have planned tospecific thicknesses. You can also use a block of wood and after you cut outthe profile of your lure, you can just cut the lures off at the thickness thatyou want. There are other various woods that can be used including basswood,balsa, and poplar. The choice is up to you. I’ll trace my pattern onto the wood making sure that I markthe location for the eyes and for the lip slot. I also want to make sure thatthe grain of the wood runs the length of the lure and NOT from top to bottom.This will ensure that the lure has structural integrity. Once I've completed that, I’ll take the wood over to theband saw and cut out the profile of the lure. At the same time, I’ll cut thelip slot. Before I cut out the lure I will check and see that the table of theband saw is 90-degrees to the band saw blade. This ensures that the lip slot will beperpendicular to the lure. If I wait until after I carve the lure, it's hard tocut the lip slot and get it right. Using a small 1/16-inch drill bit, I’ll drill a guide holefor the placement of the eyes. NOTE: This is optional. I do it to give me areference point to countersink my eye sockets. In this step I will widen the lip slot. For that I use a1/16-inch diameter diamond grinding bit. I like to use one that has a 1/16-inchshaft. That way I can get deeper intothe lip slot. This bit will follow the already cut lip slot almostperfectly. Be sure to widen the lip slot before you do the tapers on your lureas the bit will sometimes tear out a small chuck of wood as it exits the lipslot. After I widen the lip slot, I then hollow out a smallchannel at the bottom of the lip slot that will allow me to insert the back endof the line tie if the line tie is in the lip. Next, I'll go ahead and drill the holes for the rear hookhanger and line tie (if the lure’s line tie is not going to be in the lip). I willalso drill a hole to accept the belly weight. The next step is to taper the nose on both sides and thentaper the tail. I can do this taper either by carving the taper with a goodcarving knife or I can sand the tapers on a belt sander. I’ll try to keep thesetapers as symmetrical as I can. You can see in the picture that the nose istapered about a quarter of the way back from the nose and the tail is taperedfrom about midway of the body to the tail. This taper may vary depending a loton the type of lure that you're making. Now I’m ready to start carving the lure. I will start bycarving the shoulders on either side of the back as in Fig. 1 above. I willcarve until the widest point on both sides is about the same width as what I'veleft across the back. I want those threeplanes to be basically the same width. You'll see what I'm talking about in Fig2 above. Once I get those flat planes carved on the shoulders I will roll thelure over and do the same thing on the belly. I originally started with four corners on the lure. Now thatI have carved those corners off, I have eight corners. Carve those corners offand that will basically round the edges of the lure for you. For you guys thatare carving musky lures or large swimbaits you will wind up with sixteen corners.Just carve them off like I did the eight corners. That should be enough tofinish the rounding of your larger lures. After I carve the lure I glue in the belly weight, the rearhook hanger, and the line tie, if there is one. My carving is now done. I’m going to sand the lure. I liketo use the fingernail sanding sticks that you find in the beauty department ofyour local shopping center. The ones at Wal-Mart are 100-grit on one side and150-grit on the other side. I use these because they tend to round the lurebetter than just sandpaper. Sandpaper tends to follow all of the contours ofthe lure and doesn’t give me that good rounded finish that I want. It’s just myway. Your way may work better for you. After I have finished sanding the lure Iwill sand the lure again with some 220/240-git sandpaper to give me a finalfinish. I give the lure a final inspection to ensure that I have allof my tapers symmetrical, all of my knife marks are sanded out, and the lurehas a general overall good appearance. My lure is now ready for a couple of coats of sealer. A few final notes: keep your knife sharp, take your time,and always check and make sure that you keep both sides symmetrical. I hope that you’ll give this a try. One you create your ownlure that swims like you want it to, there will be no holding you back. Good luck and I hope this helps. Gene Graham aka “Lincoya”
  2. 6 likes
    I have just received a PM message asking about hunting, so I decided to post my answer: Hunting In my early days on TU, I too found old threads on hunting, and I was very intrigued. The message then was that it was not a designable feature, but more pot-luck. There was even talk about harnesses made from brass wire produced more hunters. But, as an engineer, I knew all the above was nonsense, and so I set out to explain the cause of hunting and solve the riddle of building hunters with consistent success. This took many years and became an obsession. All lipped crank-baits are capable of hunting. It is just a case of finding the speed at which this occurs. I am sure you have noticed when you rip the bait through the water, sometimes it deviates to one side. You would probably dismiss the anomaly as a quirk, a water current issue, a fault in your lure build or it must have struck a bit of weed or a leaf and was thrown out of kilt. All these explanation, although plausible, were unlikely. You probably touched the transition speed briefly were hunting occurs. Hunting (zigzag motion) is a function of lip length, lip angle and retrieval speed. Theory 1 - The angle at which a lure swims in the water at a constant speed is determined by a balance between the lip and the back of the lure, all pivoting around the tow eye. Forces above the pivot point (eye) balance the forces below the pivot point and result in a swim angle and balance. 2 – The forces over the sharp edges of a lip are stronger than over a blunt or round surface. As speed changes, the forces over the lip change at a different rate to those over the blunt back of the lure. This difference in forces changes the swim angle of the bait; as the lure moves faster, the lip forces increase more than the back forces, this results in a steeper swim angle. 3 – as the angle of the lure increases there comes a point where the lip is perpendicular to the tow direction. The forces on the lip are now at their maximum. Any further increase in speed would try to force the lip beyond perpendicular and the effective lip exposure would be reduced. The reduced lip force has to balance the back force and results in a smaller angle. And so the lure ‘nods’ or ‘porpoises’ up and down. 4 – as the lure approaches this critical angle it just does the occasional nod. This interferes with the waggle. Think of it as replacing a single waggle motion with a nod motion. When you lose one waggle say the left side, then the lure receives a double waggle on the right side. This forces the lure to change direction. 5 – Now the lure is now swimming at an angle to the tow direction in plan-view. The forces on the edge of the lip facing forward are stronger. When the lip once again reaches the critical angle, the strong side triggers the nod and so the weak side gets two waggles and so the lure changes in the opposite direction, hence the zigzag motion. Design 1 - If the lip length is short, the transition speed will be high, and you may well never observe the hunting phenomena. 2 – If the lip angle is too shallow, the whole lure would be swimming perpendicular to the tow direction. The lure would likely blow out before the transition is reached. In any case, the swim angle would be beyond the optimum dive angle and the lure would swim shallow but with a large thump due to the large diving lip fighting against the water. And so, hunting lures are shallow to medium depth lures only. The trick is to design the lure so that it hunts at the speed that you want to retrieve the lure. Retrieval speed – I like 2-cranks of the handle per second as a comfortable speed. Keep in mind that the hunting is only going to occur at one speed. Slower and the lure will give the regular waggle, faster and the lure will porpoise continually and possibly blow out. Lip angle – I design my hunters with a lip angle of between 45° and 60° to the horizontal. A steeper lip angle will reach the transition sooner than a shallower angle, but the depth of swim will be shallower. If you want a slow, sub surface hunter, then a 60° or even higher will do the job. If you want a little more depth, a 45° or even less will give you say 4’ – 6’ but you may have to retrieve faster. Build Obviously a test tank large and wide enough would be ideal for testing, but a battery powered Dremel at the lakeside will do the job. Make the lip too long, so that there is no waggle. If you look closely enough you will observe the porpoising effect. Gradually trim the lip length back until the hunting starts. There is a lip length tolerance for the hunting effect, the trick is to stop trimming at the maximum hunt, but the only way to know what is the maximum is by trimming more and losing the maximum. I build my lures 10 at a time. I waste the first one to find the maximum hunt effect and then trim the rest accordingly. The trim operation must be on the final assembly; with hooks and topcoat. I suggest one or two lures without the fancy paint job, but they must have hooks fitted and the same top coat. Dave
  3. 5 likes
    There is no finish regimen for crankbaits that is not a "witch's brew" of coatings from different manufacturers, so we mix and match trying to find a regimen that is compatible and in which all the coatings will harden and lay flat on the lure. The simplest I know is to undercoat with slow cure epoxy, lightly sand to promote paint adhesion, paint the lure, then topcoat with the same epoxy. Since epoxy does not contain any reactive solvents and is chemically inert after curing, it is a good choice. Not knowing precisely what coatings you are trying to use and not having tried them ourselves , we cannot really say why you are having problems except to say that different solvent based coatings can react with one another to cause each other to fail to harden, or to bubble, etc. As a first step, I'd lose the primer and paint directly onto the lightly sanded sealer with acrylic latex, then topcoat. If you still have the problem, your sealer and topcoat are incompatible.
  4. 5 likes
    Maybe this will help. BUSINESS – PLASTISOL BRAND SOLD – BUSINESS LOCATION - WEBSITE ADDRESS BAITJUNKY’S – CALHOUN’S – GEORGIA – http://www.shopbaitjunkys.com/Liquid-Plastisol_c_7.html BARLOW’S TACKLE – MF – TEXAS – http://www.barlowstackle.com/Worm-Making-Materials-brPlastic-Hardener-Color-Etc-C188.aspx BASSTACKLE – MF – ARIZONA – http://www.basstackle.com/category_s/112.htm BEAR’S BAITS – CALHOUN’S – LOUISIANA – http://www.bearsbaits.com/Liquid-Plastics_c_1.html CHEMIONICS – THEIR BRAND – OHIO – http://www.chemionics.com/pdfs/Soft_Plastic_Fishing_Lures_Brochure.pdf DO-IT MOLDS – CRYSTAL CLEAR / ESSENTIAL – IOWA – http://store.do-itmolds.com JANN’S NETCRAFT – LURECRAFT – OHIO – http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Search/PLASTISOL.aspx JACOB’S BAITS – MF – OHIO – www.jacobsbaits.com LURECRAFT – THEIR BRAND – INDIANA – http://www.lurecraft.com/SOFT-PLASTIC-BAIT-MAKING-PRODUCTS/departments/1/ LUREPARTS ON LINE – LURECRAFT/MF/DO-IT – ILLINOIS – http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Plastic-and-Additives/ LUREWORKS (SPIKE-IT) – THEIR BRAND – GEORGIA – https://ispikeit.com/category/68 MF – THEIR BRAND – TEXAS – http://pouryourownworms.com/ OZARK TACKLE – UNKNOW BRAND – MISSOURI – http://ozarktackle.com/plastisol.html POLYSOL – THEIR BRAND – MISSOURI – http://polysolpolymers.com/lure-plastisol-buy-now ZEINER’S – MF – KANSAS - http://zeiners.com/mfsupplies.html Rick
  5. 5 likes
    When comparing GBM to salt, the clarity and durability isn't even close. Glass is transparent, salt is opaque. Plastic will bond to glass but not to salt. I've posted this pic before but this is a "core shot" stickbait made with enough GBM to match the sink rate of a GY Senko. You will never get this kind of results using salt!
  6. 4 likes
    Those are really nice looking baits. Just an FYI.......in the future, please post all pictures in the gallery.
  7. 4 likes
    I have mixed it with Flex Coat iridescent glitter. It makes a killer addition. I don't make the stuff you guys do but topcoat some jigs with it for some added bling. Not a good pic but here's one with gold. I like the purple even better.
  8. 4 likes
    I take it you tried the spike it soft plastic eyes as you mentioned the soft plastic glue. I have some but haven't tried them yet but have seen some baits made with them and they looked pretty good. Here's their description including some of the drawbacks using the 3D eyes, as you describe.
  9. 4 likes
    Gliders, this is another one I almost don't want to get involved in, but I can't help myself. Sorry. As an engineer, and an avid archer, this question has haunted me for a long time. A ballistic rocket, like and arrow, is not a bad analogy to the glider issue, except that you have a boundary layer, water/air, to deal with that arrows and rockets don't have. That boundary layer would determine how you orient your fin depending on if your bait is yawing, rolling, or pitching. The problem is that the answer to your question is "it depends". OUCH, I know that is a bad answer and I am sorry for it. There is no 'one' answer to all glide bait designs. Lures like the Suick use the tail fin as a control surface, not as a stabilizer. The adjustability is nice but the use is different. The Suick tail fin is designed to stop the dived lure from backing up on a dive but to rise head first and glide forward. For giggles, I am going to give you a link to a friend's video and how he determined he need a stabilizer for his glide bait and how he determined how to do it. It might give you some insights, but it does not tells us why he also chose the 'rounded manatee style fin' instead of another style. http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/7/ Now, back to theory only. Rounded shapes, like circular styles, actually give more surface area per drag imposed. Getting rid of sharp edges at the ends and corners reduces drag turbulence that, in arrows, causes noise and slows down the arrow some. IN THEORY, it would do the same to gliders, "for the same amount of material". Smaller or larger fins of another style can be used to compensate. Theory only again, the traditional view of a rocket fin or an arrow fletch, that of a right triangle shaped piece, increases drag and pushes the center of pressure to the rear. For an arrow, or a ballistic rocket, that higher friction or drag can increase stability but marginally increases drag (like having a mini parachute on the back). In air, that drag is minimal and is a function of the square of the velocity and the coefficient of friction. In water, because water is what, about 800 times denser then air (should have looked it up), the drag would be increased by 800 times, but......... the coefficient of friction is so low that at the low velocities of a glider it almost is not a concern. If I wanted to create a low drag design that provided good stability, I might consider putting something on with a round shape that extended back, kind of like a lolly pop in 2D. Yuk, but, it should glide really well, and if the lure starts to wobble or shake the profile would be exposed to more water flow as the fin rotates of the center of glide, pushing it back to true center of glide. Still, depending on the cause of the instability, the interactions with the boundary layer, the specific design of your glider, or to go back to the rocket/arrow analogy the purpose of the projectile, different designs will give different results. Not all rockets use right triangle fins, not all arrows use that shape fletch (most don't now), and I expect not all glide baits will either. I hope this helps some. Good luck.
  10. 4 likes
    Hey guys. After lurking for a long time, I figured this was a good time to jump in and introduce myself. Many of you know my brother Jon, who posts here as JBarlow. Together with our other brother (surprisingly not named "Darryl") we run Barlow's. Thanks to Smalljaw and the rest of you for your kind words. We love it when our customers are happy with our products and service, and we know you have lots of options to choose from for tackle/materials. Your criticisms are also valid. We strive to have the broadest selection of lure making materials possible, and it's something we feel we mostly succeed at. The downside is that inventory management can be challenging. With thousands of SKUs, being out of stock on some products is inevitable, but there's still nothing we like less than being out of something our customers are eager to have. We've recently taken steps to better inform our customers when we're out of stock, or when we're holding their order for out-of-stock merchandise. We're also exploring options for a more robust inventory management system, but, with so many products, it's a long process. We're not perfect, but we're doing our best to get there. Thanks again to all of you for your business and, for those of you who have been disappointed in the past, we do hope to one day earn you back as customers.
  11. 4 likes
    Made this beauty...simple design. But it's awesome when you take it out for a test run and it gets smacked around. LoL....looks like I'll be making 60 more now that I know gets bit!
  12. 4 likes
    Rather than write out a recipe, I created a video tutorial for painting an natural looking crappie pattern. Very simple and only uses 3 paint colors! Hope everyone benefits from these tips! -Mike
  13. 3 likes
    First, a disclaimer: I used a store bought lure in my photos. Blasphemy, I know, but I'll explain why later on. Anyway, I wanted better photos of my lures. I'm tired of 'posing' them on the tabletop, pile of rocks, in my hand, waiting for the sun to come out, etc. So, I built this photo booth out of some scrap wood, ultra thin plastic sheet, tissue paper, and a piece of poster board. I had all this laying around, so the cost was almost nothing. I cut the wood and plastic to size to make a roughly 12x12x20 inch 5-sided box. I used spray adhesive to stick the tissue on the plastic sheets. Clear packing tape holds most if it together so more light will come through (hopefully that'll hold for more than a day). The tissue helps to diffuse the light. When assembled, the 'tissue plastic' goes on the sides and top. I wedged in a piece of poster board and taped it in place when the curve looked nice. I decided I wanted the lure to look like it was floating. So, I drilled a hole through the back of the box, hot glued a dowel to the lure, and stuck the dowel through the hole. I'm not sure I want to use this concept going forward. Not in a hurry to see how my top coats will react to the hot glue (thus the reason I used the store bought lure). I used 3 fluorescent 'daylight' bulbs to light the top and sides. I turned off every other light to avoid any orange glow. Here's how it looked with the fluorescent lights: And here's how it looked in direct sunlight, at just about noon: So, there's a tiny difference between the artificial and sun light, but nothing too significant, in my opinion. Anyway, I hope this may help anyone looking to get more consistent pics of their work.
  14. 3 likes
    My experience is that it clumps if you add it to heated plastic and becomes a real pain to get mixed properly. I always add salt and / or gbm to raw plastic before heating.
  15. 3 likes
    Thanks. The area by the trigger and valve does not get any paint near it. I dropped some Createx Restorer down the hole into the valve. That stuff is kinda oily feeling and it seemed to do the trick.
  16. 3 likes
    i still use salt and probably wont switch. salt is natural and non-toxic. dont think glass beads are too safe if you or your pets consume them somehow. salt is cheap and apparently fish hold onto salt baits longer than unsalted (what i've heard, could be wrong) transparent sticks look cool but i highly doubt a fish that wants your senko is going to have time to determine if its a realistic color or not. they are triggered on the action of a bait. spraypaint a real crayfish any color you want and its getting slammed every time. ive fished hundreds of colors of stick baits and they have all worked (in my opinion) the same.
  17. 3 likes
    The art of pouring, sounds like a great book title. I respect that, and still hand pour most of my own, but my family and friends want me to upsize to a production guy and ....... not sure I want to take a hobby I love and turn it into a job I might hate.
  18. 3 likes
    Exactly... Simple facts... That 95% of people are unaware of. Tax man don't go by the premise, easier to ask for forgiveness then permission. LOL
  19. 3 likes
    I have found that 95% of tax professionals have zero clue that there is even an excise tax on fishing lures.
  20. 3 likes
    If the lip is a molded part of a plastic lure, yes dipping it will make it clear. If it is polycarbonate, don't because topcoats will not adhere to it. If it is circuit board, there's no reason to dip because it isn't clear to start with.
  21. 3 likes
    One I just did for a friend. This is before clear. I will do a how to today
  22. 3 likes
    Got a fresh batch...dipped a couple baits I had waiting...fished them for 2 days straight this past weekend...NO PEELING! Looks like it was just simply a bad batch. Hats off to Dick Nite for making this right for me.
  23. 3 likes
    Inventory taxes aren't a contributing factor for us. Mark Poulson nailed it -- it's a never-ending game of trying to have just enough inventory to satisfy every order but not so much that you're left with a lot of stock when a product is no longer popular. Sometimes we nail it. Sometimes not.
  24. 3 likes
    In truth, Im pretty sure Real Sencos are made from MF plastic, You may start there.
  25. 3 likes
    musky glenn .I have produced enuff fire wood to heat a house here in Canada on a cold winters nite. the joy of it is when we hit on a winner..dale sw. I think of new paint process even after 35 years of painting for a living. .if its fun do it.
  26. 3 likes
    I just wanted to give a shout out to Barlow's Tackle for excellent service!!!! I placed an order Thursday evening and Friday I get a call telling me the one item I ordered was out of stock so they offered me an alternative item. I really appreciated that as a lot of places just send the order with an updated price as the item is out of stock. This is the kind of customer service that makes me a return customer, and I also wanted to give some love as we all are quick to voice our displeasure when things don't go well with a vendor. So thank you Barlow's Tackle, I truly appreciate the extra effort!!
  27. 3 likes
    Agree. Ive reached out to Baitjunky's, Do-It, AI, and Bass Tackle at one point or another and all of those guys have gotten back to me in a timely manner. Also probably why I only look to them for my molds any more.
  28. 3 likes
    My 6" golden shiner swimbait. Weights 2.2 oz top hook with internal harness to control sink rate.
  29. 3 likes
    Cut the sides out of a plastic milk jug. They make some very nice stencils and they're easy to cut.
  30. 3 likes
    It's really pretty simple, and I can clean my brush between coats or colors in about a half a minute. I use an Iwata two stage gravity brush 95% of the time, and this is how I clean it. Before I started using this method, it was 50/50 that I would have to shoot some acetone through my brush before I could use it again, and maybe even soak the nozzle parts in it. But this method has made cleaning a breeze, and I seldom need to run acetone through my brush anymore. Basically, I wanted a way to backflush my brush quickly and completely, and to avoid the paint in the nozzle from drying out between coats. I have a tupperware next to my work bench, with a cheap plastic artists brush in it. After I spray a color, or when I've finished with whatever paint is in the brush, before I heat set the paint on the bait, I put my air brush into the water so both the tip and the cup are underwater, and shoot a burst of air through it, to get the paint in the brush out, and to keep the paint in the nozzle from setting up. Then I hang it over the edge of the tupperware, so the nozzle is still underwater, and the cup, too, depending on how much water is in the tupperware. That keeps the nozzle and cup wet, so any paint left in them won't dry and become a problem Then I can take the time to heat set the bait properly. Once the bait is dried, I go back to the brush to clean it more thoroughly. I hold the air brush so the nozzle and cup are underwater completely, cover the nozzle with my index finger, and backflush the brush for five seconds. Then I loosen the nozzle a little, and back flush again. This cleans the tiny paint holes in the nozzle. I retighten the nozzle, use the artist's brush to clean out the cup and the nozzle, and backflush again. Once I've finished my painting session, I follow the same procedure. Then I pull the needle out, wipe it off, and put it back in and shoot a little water with dish washing liquid in it (a small squirt in a 12oz. spray bottle) through the brush to give it a final cleaning. I work the needle back and forth a couple of times to get the cleaning mixture into the needle channel, and to loosen any last paint that might have found it's way into the channel. Then I shoot the last of the mixture out through the brush. I think the water/detergent mix leaves a little lubricant in the needle channel so the brush is ready to go next time, but I always shoot some of the same mix through the brush at the beginning of each session, too, to be sure the brush is moving easily. If it's at all sticky, I put some acetone in the cup and back flush the same way, and that usually frees up anything that is sticky. I hold the airbrush in my right hand, and use my left to cover the nozzle for all the back flushing. I use a blue nitrile glove on my left, non-airbrush hand because I hold the bait in it while I'm painting, so it's easy to put my left index finger over the nozzle for back flushing. If you have a brush with an exposed needle, like a Badger, you can't use this method. I buy my gloves at CVS or Riteaid, and they last a long time. I'm still on my first box, and have only used three gloves all year. I am careful to get all the extra water out from around the trigger, or at least to be sure and flush that area out, too. Dirty water in the trigger area is the biggest drawback to my system, so I always start out with a fresh tupperware of clean water, and make sure there's no water sitting in the trigger area when I'm done, by shaking the brush after I'm done. It took longer to type these instructions than it does to clean with this method. Plus, you don't spend a fortune on cleaning solution, which is really just soap and water anyway, and you keep the nozzle from getting dry paint buildup between coats and colors. Some colors, like black, red, blue, and orange, are really strong, so I take a little extra time after shooting them to clean the nozzle and the needle. But most transparent colors, for the most part, aren't as big an issue as opaques, and I don't have to clean the needle at all before the next coat or color. Play around with it, and I'm sure you'll develop a system that works for you. Good luck. Rep
  31. 2 likes
    Step one is to decide who you want to be. What's your focus? What value do you bring to soft baits that no one else can bring? How are you different from your competition? Do you make the best crawfish baits in the world? Do you have the widest range of saltwater baits? Are your hand pours so beautiful they should be in the Louvre? Getting your name out there won't be worth much if your customers don't associate it with anything. You have to determine what your core benefit is, then pursue it with relentless focus. Doing so will guide nearly every decision you make, from product mix to pricing to marketing tactics. The standard marketing tools for our trade are pretty self-evident; enthusiast sites like this one, trade pubs, shows, events (tournaments, etc), social media. Nail down what makes you unique, then go from there.
  32. 2 likes
    I use pointed mini vise grips that I got at Harbor Freight. They were cheep, worked great, and were able to open and close well once adjusted. I have used forceps, but I did not have the clamp power I wanted. Hope this helps.
  33. 2 likes
    Thanks again fellas! Cadman - I have already learned quickly if it isn't working out well just stop what your doing and walk away. I plan on getting a smaller 1oz ladle and the smaller Lee-4lb that smallmouth mentioned, just so I can learn the pros and cons to each of it's uses. Smallmouth - Thanks for the information, I have upgraded my ventilation in the work area since working with lead. I haven't got around to buying any specific sprays to apply to the molds, just started with candles due to it being inexpensive and the simplicity of it. I have A LOT to learn and to read up on. Everyone had to start somewhere and I am glad that there is a forum for Fishing Enthusiasts and very helpful members on it as well!
  34. 2 likes
    Bear is dealing with some health issues. Prayers to him and his family. I ordered a few mold and didn't realize he was sick until I went back to his home page. Yall pray for him..
  35. 2 likes
    It was a simple mistake on my part. I simply did not have it tight enough to seal. When I tightened it up I couldn't smell not one fume.
  36. 2 likes
    George Castanza's counter-clockwise swirl apparently works really well.
  37. 2 likes
    I've been doing what Mark does for a while here with the Phenix vibrating jigs. Ole California delta trick (wink wink) but I really wanna start pouring the heads myself. Zman had the right idea with the chatterbait but in the past years the quality of components has gotten worse from them. That's why I wanna make my own.
  38. 2 likes
    Sorry, now your post is clear to me. I am glad the others got on and cleared up how they do this. There are also some new plastics that are "sinking" that should work as well. I know GY uses a very fine grind. Frankly I think that MonteSS is on the cutting edge of transparent sinking sticks for sure.
  39. 2 likes
    The blast media I use is pure glass beads, and has no salt. I add a tablespoon of salt for flavor to a 1 cup plastic/1/2 cup bead mixture. I also add 1/2 teaspoon of heat stabilizer, and 1 teaspoon of softener. http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-LBS-Glass-Bead-Medium-Grit-MIL-SPEC-8-70-100-grit-Sand-Blasting-Abrasive-/111672165459?hash=item1a002e0453:g:VocAAOxydgZTKU6c
  40. 2 likes
    I can jump start your learning curve by giving you some recipes to look at. http://www.lurebuilding.nl/indexeng.html I can link you into a good primer on the theory of glide baits. http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/7/ I can also point out that "Swim Baits" and "Gliders" are completely different in our use of the terms, so that can be confusing when you ask your question. Last, I can tell you that you can make a floating glide bait, or you can make a slow sinking bait that will tend to suspend in use, but a true suspending bait must get it to depth first and glide baits have no control surface to get it to the depth. Thus the sinking nature of that subcategory of glider. I hope this helps, but it looks like you are in the early stages of this so like suggested, start looking at videos, use the search feature, and start your research.
  41. 2 likes
    I think the 5313 from Owner is a compromise, it is a 1X strong hook made for those who want to finesse fish but use tackle that is generally too heavy. For my part of the world and dealing with smallmouth in clear water I find the EC 500BP Lil Nasty in a size 1 works well, a size 2 works great for not getting hung but you ill lose a fish every now and again. I also like the Mustad 32746 and the EC Laser Sharp 570 BP, they have it marked with an "L" in front of the number. The reason the 5313 is so good is because the hook is strong but it is very sharp so it won't bend out using heavier tackle and the sharpness will penetrate even if you are using line as light as 6#. A 1/0 can be used but I think the best hook size to use is a #1 and that is because it is long enough to get a good hook set but it still allows more than half the bait to move and with a light weight head the worm will have some subtle action. A 1/0 is ok but I can see a difference in how the worm reacts when falling.
  42. 2 likes
    I haven't looked at prices of the RCBS for a couple years. Looking at the prices now, I'm not to sure of spending over $400 on one. Would want to know more about that Lyman. First question would be does fishing molds fit under the spout? Looks pretty low, like it was geared towards the bullet molds more. On further review, I have found several sites selling the newer pro melt 2 for under $300.
  43. 2 likes
    I'm thinking about adding this one to my collection and learning to fish it. Anyway, here's what The Barlow Bros. say will fit it. Many thanks to them.
  44. 2 likes
    Thanks guys. Did a test run today and mixed for less than a minute. Had plenty of working time and it went on thinner.
  45. 2 likes
    Not a pissing match @ all. Simple FACTS about selling baits and operating a legitimate business.
  46. 2 likes
    I keep my plastic in 5 gal buckets. Usually buy a 55 gal drum at a time. During the cold months it will settle out and I just take the lid off and use a paint mixer on a drill. Takes a while to get it mixed, but it will mix.
  47. 2 likes
    if you search for sassy shad you will find these things everywhere, they are all over ebay and all over the net..... of course many of these companies "make them themselves" hahaha but they come out of d & j. http://dandjplastics.tripod.com/234shad.htm I won't post any of the resellers here but you will find them everywhere.
  48. 2 likes
    Anytime I use a lighter gauge wire hook and get flash in the eye, I take plumbers putty and put it into the mold cavity... It don't take much. Press it in tight. It will block the lead from going into the cavity. The hook eye presses into the putty for perfect pours. Your welcome.
  49. 2 likes
    Tested the bait this weekend, I was pleased with how the bait performed, it was a slow bite but I did manage to catch a 3lb 4oz bass on it!
  50. 2 likes
    I wanted a hopper pattern that was more realistic and an easy tie. I hadn't been able to find what I was looking for. So, I created this..."Hookers Hopper".

    © john kross