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  1. 6 likes
    Wouldn't the woman you get them from get pissed, especially if she's sober when you rip them off?
  2. 4 likes
    Good one Mark, you've been on a roll lately!!!!
  3. 4 likes
    The best gold I have found is spraying Createx sunrise transparent over silver foil. When the hair dryer hits it and it starts drying there is a drastic change from yellow to a briliant gold color. Good luck.
  4. 4 likes
    I'm sure that's just because they know you. Hahaha
  5. 4 likes
    Hey guys, I have some good news for those of you looking for the Original Wham Fisheze my family and I own all of the original molds from 2-5 inches and machines that produced these baits from the very beginning! Along with the Whams we also have the Original Fluttercraft worm in all sizes. I imagine this post gets a lot of attention considering that this information has yet to hit the web. We are currently in the middle of upgrading our machines and are not yet producing baits but should be in the near future! Feel free to pm us with any questions you may have or to see what we have on hand as far as inventory. Tight lines! Frank & Family
  6. 4 likes
    Nothing sticks to silicone but silicone itself.
  7. 4 likes
    rumor has it dugeonhawk pours in the nude
  8. 3 likes
    Are you sure that it has stopped wagging. As retrieval speed increases, the frequency of the waggle increases. With this increase in waggle speed, the width of the waggle does not have time to achieve the same width at lower speeds. If you only tried low speeds and high speeds, then the lure may still be waggling, but you cannot see it. Try at a low speed were you can definitely see the movement. Count the cranks of the reel per approximate second. Increase the speed on the next retrieve, again counting. Notice the faster and narrower waggle. Write down the numbers. Especially make a note of the numbers when the waggle appears to stop. Back at your workshop, measure the length of line retrieved by one crank of the reel. With this information, all the numbers can be converted to metres per second. I am guessing that around 5m/s (metres per second) the waggle appears to stop. You can send me all the raw data and I will do the sums for you and explain to you why the lure appears to stop waggling. Dave
  9. 3 likes
    Welcome to TU, SMBLifter! I lift a few smallies myself, and quite a few good ones this season with the Midwest Finesse ("Ned") jig head attached to them. Since 2012 when Massachusetts prohibited the use of lead jigs and weights weighing less than an ounce, I have been experimenting with bismuth/tin alloys. I've settled on 88% bismuth/12% tin for some molds; ball jigs are fine with this as is Do-it's Herring Head and, yes, the Midwest Finesse ("Ned") jig head. Since you're just getting started, let's look at your first concern: Be safe! Wear goggles and gloves. Work in a quiet environment and only when you're clear-headed, not after beers with the boys or with playful children, pets, or agitated adults around. And do not rush the process of casting molten metal. Please forgive the lecture; although casting, once you've got the hang of it, is fun and satisfying, it's got to be serious business to avoid painful injury. Also in this photo is Drop Out release spray which is helpful with everything and a necessity if you want to get a bismuth/tin casting out of the mold! It's available from barlowstackle.com. Now let's look at the devilishly-difficult-to-handle wire forms (bait keepers) for the Midwest Finesse mold: After fumbling and cursing trying to settle these little parts into the mold for the first couple dozen pours, I experienced an aha! moment: find a small magnet. Simply orient the wire form on it properly and, using your thumb, push it off into the mold. Place the hook next to it and then nudge both together so all is properly seated. Yes, this does take time and patience. I'm sure that cadman, whom I greatly respect for his expertise and generosity in sharing his knowledge will back me when I say be patient with your work and practice. Then practice some more. Onward to tools: L -R: tool handle with magnet on end, lineman's pliers and slip joint pliers. I use the linemans to grip the head (not the sprue) of the casting and pull it up and out. Use both to remove the sprue. The alloy, https://www.rotometals.com/lead-free-bullet-casting-alloy-88-bismuth-12-tin/ is hard enough so you wont mar the jig head. If you're wondering what's with the big screwdriver, that tells me you haven't read the instructions that came with Lee's Production Pot IV. (Presumptuous of me to assume that's what you've got for a melter, huh?) It really helps to stick it in the slot at the end of the plunger and turn it to stop or at least minimize dripping. A batch of Midwest Finesse jig heads in various stages of production: There are 1/16 oz, 3/32 oz. and 1/8 oz. jigs pictured. I've read that the above linked alloy is about 85% the weight of lead. I've used the 3/32 oz. probably 95% of the time to get to my smallies at depths of 10' - 20'. What else? I've had no problem with the hook keeper loosening in this alloy, even in the 1/16 oz. head. Give the mold another coat of Drop Out after 3 - 4 dozen pours. From Wikipedia: "Bismuth expands 3.32% on solidification." Even though the Owner 5313, size 1/0 hook is far more expensive than the Eagle Claw "Lil Nasty," I prefer it because the points don't turn nearly as easily when retrieved through rocky habitat. That all may be more than enough for now so I'll close by once again welcoming you to Tackle Underground.
  10. 3 likes
    Lures have been coated with the polyurethane for decades. However, the advent of better epoxies, uv cured poly, and moisture cured urethane is a step up in durability, water and yellowing resistance. Some of the new stuff is better suited to hobby building than manufacturing for various handling, application, and time reasons so there are still commercial builders using polyurethane. In the end, only you can decide if the topcoat you choose is durable and waterproof enough for your lures. You have to build and fish them to find out.
  11. 3 likes
    It takes hard lead, to work best. I use lead with 6% antimony. when i try to use lead with less antimony I get more rejects. the fill gates in spin casting molds are thinner and hard lead allows the jig to break off of the spru instead of bending back and to break off. this leaves a cleaner breakoff point. I have used wheel weights but they on have about 1% antimony. learning curve is not bad but that depends on the complexity of the part you are casting. your slowest part of spin casting will be loading hooks. If you have 8 molds and 3 people loading molds you could pour 15,000 in 1 day. molds don't last forever. heat wears them out, so having 3 or more molds will spread out the heat a little and dumping out of the mold as soon as possible to try to keep the mold from getting too hot. the molds don't get very hot anyway. If you have 3 molds and 1 person loading hooks and pour all day the molds would not get too hot, as long it is not a 2 or 3 oz jig.
  12. 3 likes
    After struggling to find a comercially produced all-purpose bass jig that had all the innovative features I wanted at a reasonable price, I set out to create one. I wanted the screw lock trailer keeper of the strike king tour grade skipping jig, the hand tied reverse half-skirt of the greenish tackle skipping jig, the extra fine cut silicone and compact size of the ike mini flip, and the head shape and hook style of the 4x4 Randall Tharp jig. I started with a brand new do-it Model S bass jig, and got to work with a dremel for about 2 hours. The result, a jig that is equally at home skipping, flipping, hopping, and dragging, turned out really good!
  13. 3 likes
    fshng2-- I have probably bent around 500 lips over the past few years and have found ''rice oil'' to be the best (it has highest heat range so it smokes less), the oil needs to be about 182-1823 C ----------''Lexan'' (poly-carbonate) is solid up to about 180C and it starts to melt at about 186-188C. You can use a bent lip either way up too (concave or convex) which will give 2 different actions and depths, and out of one bib ''blank type'' you can make/have flat, concave or convex - Let us know how you go--Pete
  14. 3 likes
    Another way to fix bent plastics is to take a pot of boiling water and drop them in for a minute or 2. The temp of the water is below the plastic melt point but is enough to reset the memory from when they were molded. Once you pull them out lay them flat for a day or so and they will be like new.
  15. 3 likes
    I made several glide baits a while back that were modeled after the S waver, and carved out of PVC. I think the shape of your joint may make it more finicky. I made the joint, a V joint with the back of the front section the indentation and the front of the rear section the V shaped point, and adjusted my screw eyes to have the bait bend at the same angle as the original. I found that this joint, as opposed to square faces or rounded faces, started the swimming action at lower speeds than any other joint shape. Vodkaman Dave said it was the vortices action on the sides of the bait not being interrupted by the larger joint as the rolled down the side of the bait. I also found, thanks to the TU members, that the key for a good glide movement was to get both segments, tested individually, to fall at the same rate, and exactly horizontal, so there was minimal friction in the hinge joint. I tested them unpainted, and then painted and top coated them. I found that, with the biggest bait, the addition of the paint and topcoat interfered with the glide movement. I pulled the hinge pin out and opened the joint a half turn each on the screw eyes, and the glide was restored. A glide bait is, by far, the most challenging bait I've ever made, so keep plugging away and you'll get it.
  16. 3 likes
    Whenever I have trouble shooting with my air brush, I disassemble it completely and soak it overnight in Createx Air Brush Restorer (thank you Ben Siegel). It's amazing how much old paint there is in my "clean' brush. Here's the link to where I buy mine. It's second down on the left. http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=128 I put mine in a gasketed pickle jar, and it has lasted for a few years now. The old paint just settles to the bottom, without ruining the restorer. If I have a balky brush, or leave the paint in the cup a little too long, and don't want to stop painting to soak the brush overnight, I just wipe out what I can, wipe the needle, and back flush with water and a little dishwashing soap. Then I put some restorer into the paint cup, and back flush with it a few times. Another backflush with clean water, and, presto, I'm good to go.
  17. 3 likes
    I use floor tile wax as a release agent, only because I have a big tin of it. I apply with a rag and a quick blast with a blow torch to smooth it out. I never had a problem of splitting the parts, but if you forget the release agent, you will have to fight to get your masters back. Dave
  18. 2 likes
    I love BaitJunkys degassed plastisol. I'm fairly new to bait making still and tried a few other brands and when I got my first batch of Baitjunkys I was super impressed! I now have 10 gallons on the self and it will be the only plastic I pour going forward!
  19. 2 likes
    Btw, Thanks for the write up Mike, we enjoy solving problems and helping people out, regardless if its out product or not.
  20. 2 likes
    A while back I had been having trouble with my Badger 200 and 200nh airbrushes. (3 total) The problem was a systematic spitting of air. It was constant and speed of the pulses depended on how much air pressure was applied. I saw a video on you tube that helped me solve the problem. They stated that the packing around the needle was letting air bypass. I removed the needle, disassembled the airbrushes, took a drill bit that fit the situation and applied pressure with the blunt end of the drill bit. I reinstalled everything and now all three are working fine. No more pulsing. Maybe this will help some of you.
  21. 2 likes
    Mark so you're sayin....go bar hopping very late and get all the nails you want.
  22. 2 likes
    I misted the Createx Sunrise Yellow as well over the silver foil on the top. With the bottom bait, I misted Polytranspar Medium Green Bass over Createx Pearl Pineapple over the same silver foil....the top was misted over white stripes and the bottom has the black stripes over the misting. You can see how different colors under, over and the overspray as well can give different looks. Even the amount misted. I don't think you can make any two exactly alike if you tried. I have never yellow like BobP used but if he says it works....it works! There seems to be an endless way to achieve the same or similar results and variations of by layering colors...
  23. 2 likes
    I have a Bagley Bango Lure that is a simple Pearl Belly and Lavender Back. It is a fish catching sumbuck! It looks like "Hammered Dog Sh?t" I have glued and repaired it several times and it just keeps catching em. Once I had a 20 pound strper eat it and I chased that fish all over the lake to get my lure back when normally I would have just tightened down the drag and broke him off. I can do an exact match on about any bait made and have painted several old Bango Lures to match this one and the old one still catches twice the fish. I have had customers send me lures for custom painting and I would usually call the customer once I received them to "re-cap" what we were going to do to them. Several times I would have a customer say to me for instance...... " that Pop R you have there that is so chewed up is one of the fish catching-est baits I have ever tied on". I would reply " well why in the world do you want to paint it then"? "lets just do the minor repair it need and keep on fishing it"! They would reply....... " thats a good idea"! Sooooo ...... Survey says.......... if its chewed up and battlescared and still catching fish, and still serviceable and not taking on water, FISH IT! Regards, Blades
  24. 2 likes
    Thanks to all the guys who comment here on a regular basis and helped me in my last two threads. Although the imperfect mold is causing unwanted ribs in my Craws i thought id share just two color ways i've made. Green Pumpkin and my version of June bug, Also just finished up some white with silver flake but will wait for my "The Ripper" Mold to come in to shoot good quality photos.
  25. 2 likes
    Tried to get very close to zooms ruby red . The zoom is in the middle.
  26. 2 likes
    Wadsword, just so you know, the term "mushroom jig" is trade marked by Gopher tackle, you could end up on the wrong side of legal fees and licensing if you stay with that name. I know Zoom got a person I know for $26,000 for using the term "trick worm" and it didn't happen right away, they left him use it for like 6 years and then filed suite. I just wanted you to be aware of that, Gopher Tackle isn't Zoom but they can claim you hurt sales if they wanted to and you would have to end up getting a lawyer. My suggestion is you call it something other than a mushroom jig.
  27. 2 likes
    A wider boot and tapering all around the tail section(sides and underbelly) from the body to the boot solved the kick issue for me. And making the tail section between the boot and the body wider helped with making the tail swing side to side only and not doing figure 8s
  28. 2 likes
    I really don't get too caught up in matching things exactly and find overall color representation more important. White bass/shad/alewife etc... means white to silver color palette. Specific paint colors... I use mainly Createx bud don't pay too much attention to the name . More important is just being able to understand how to lay colors to get the look you are wanting. White bass really have a lot of color variation. You have some that have a lot of green/yellow hue, some very pale, some darker gray, iridescent green over steely gray with deep green stripes, etc... For something like juvenilles I typically spray the body white, Then I will take some light gray and mist the upper back from front to back. Then some metallic gray or silver and hit the back and blend. I will then add a little yellow/green near the heat and lighten up going towards the back. A little gold over spray (very light) near the front. Then with some black highlight the eye socket and to get the stripes. You can go black first then spray a metallic and then build on that also . No really right or wrong way just fire up the brush and remember you can always start over. As mentioned find a picture and just work or replicating what you see.
  29. 2 likes
    Plastisol makers have additives to make plastic harder/stiffer or softer. The hardener or softener from one brand will work in another brand from my experience.
  30. 2 likes
    Welcome to TU. IMO the best bait making forum on the net. FB groups included.
  31. 2 likes
    You could modify your master to include a fillet web, say 2mm thick, by gluing in a trimmed piece of lexan or acrylic. The web will start at the tail plate and run along the under body, gradually tapering out. This will prevent the fold-back, and limit the movement to side-to-side. Depending on the size of the lure of course; could be more or less than 2mm. The extent of the web will have to be experimented with, so it would probably be best to make it too big. You can then gradually cut back at the water's edge until you get what you want, then modify the master to suit. Yes, this means making at least another two molds, but this is all part of the development process for a new lure. The experience gained will help you on the next project. Dave
  32. 2 likes
    I found them and got samples, but they are horrible quality, lopsided and not worth the money or time.
  33. 2 likes
    After trying adhesive "gold" foil that turned brown (guess it was brass), I used adhesive aluminum foil and shot it with a little transparent createx yellow. Worked fine.
  34. 2 likes
    Many guys want to run the largest hooks they can on a bass bait and that often means switching to a short shank treble to avoid tangles. But it's not that simple. Most short shank's tines bend inward. That's good for avoiding hanging on cover but regular round bend hooks are better at hooking fish and that's why round bend hooks are more popular on open water baits like jerkbaits. And thin wire round bend hooks work better for fish with softer mouths than bass. In the circumstance you describe, I'd choose a regular round bend #6 treble, probably an Owner model. Upgrade to a #4 only if it doesn't tangle the hooks or hang up on the bait's lip. JMHO
  35. 2 likes
    Hi Guys, I recently tried my hands on making a crankbait with foil scales on it, I'm extremely happy with the result. Let me know what you think. I'd love to know if anyone else uses silver foil/tape as well and what technique they use.
  36. 2 likes
    That looks really awesome! Btw. What kind of wood do you use to carve? I havent made a foiled lure in a couple of years but when I saw your video I now want to do it again :)! I have tried many types of foiling techniques. I generally like to put the foil all around the lure so I can use the airbrush to make a smooth transition between foil and paint BUT I didnt have any picture of any lures when I did so haha! /David
  37. 2 likes
    Are you going to make a two piece silicone mold? You can use clay that you can melt and then pour to the center line of the bait and you will get a pretty awesome seam line. I recommend this clay cause it is high quality stuff I used for at least 5 years. Chavant NSP (Sulphur free). And you can reuse it as many times as you want.
  38. 2 likes
    But, even the "respirator" is debatable. Most Safety Data Sheets for Plastisol say it is NON-Toxic, unless you live in California LOL. It does have a smell though. If you are a small quantity guy, well you will have to determine this yourself. But, Driftwood gives a great lawyer proof answer. Personally, I don't use a respirator. I only use a face shield if I am injecting. I would consider it stupid to EVER GO with out gloves, they are a necessity. I only use a microwave and borosilicate glass to melt my plastic (current Pyrex is not borosilicate and the high heat changes can break the glass). Good advice Driftwood, "read, read, and read some more".
  39. 2 likes
    It does have something to do with drying. Although I let them dry 24 before Etex. However, I started to paint a few the other day but had to stop because guests showed up. It was 48 hours later before I started to finish and the paint was still moist as it would come off on my hand. I couldn't spray the polytranspar at first because of tip dry. I wonder if I caused this by adding glycerin?
  40. 2 likes
    Got to actually visit with Bear recently, we talked for an hour and it seemed he was glad to have a little company. His heart and desire are still with the shop but his health just is not letting it take place at this time. Prayers to him and his family, he is a good man and I have appreciated his hospitality and friendship for a few years. He helped lead this tight niche of an industry and maintained the ability to be personable and caring to his customers. Glad I got to see him and hear some Bear stories again. Heck I may have to go back to say hello next month.
  41. 2 likes
  42. 2 likes
    Locking pins! You will understand quickly should you not and get in a hurry expelling the leftover plastic.
  43. 2 likes
    For The Hobbist 1. Make your own packaging with thermoform plastic sheets. 2. This system can also be used to make molds masks for painting lures. http://www.widgetworksunlimited.com/Vacuum_Formers_s/35.htm
  44. 2 likes
    Sorry about that...fat fingers (or bad eyes!).
  45. 2 likes
    Eastman: I am from Ohio Vman and Dale: I am trying to do this right the first time. I would like a place to paint, a place to work, and another place to pour wire baits. I will keep yall posted on my progress. Right now it looks like I am probably 2-3 months away from getting a work space ready.
  46. 2 likes
    I did go buy another 7' fishing rod today. I'm a 72 year old kid that never got over a child hood of having to make do with one, half good fishing rod all the way through my teen years. Now that I can, kind of, afford a few extras, lures, reels and rods just make me sleep better at night.
  47. 2 likes
    Drill out the mold the diameter of your hook eye about 1/4 inch deep on both sides... Then over fill the holes with red rtv silicone and let dry. Using a razor blade to cut off flush with the mold. Now you can pour any hook you want w/o any flash.
  48. 2 likes
    I have to admit, this was a good read.. Ive been making molds for a couple weeks now and will be making my first pour this weekend.. I like learning from other, lol
  49. 2 likes
    Brushing the Bondo into the details first is key, even if you have to mix a second batch to pour over it to make the mold body. The second pour will bond to the initial detail Bondo.
  50. 2 likes
    I think this crankbait color recipe book is a great idea . It'll let members share what they know works and help the newbies with some color schemes they might take years to work out on their own . I think there ought to be a whole new catergory in the fourms for this topic ( Mr. Jerry if you please )