Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/17/2020 in all areas

  1. If those are your first baits man you are well on your way! They look great. In my day job I am a network engineer so I can appreciate the fact that you used the two sides from an old computer case for your painting booth. That's awesome man:) You have for sure found yourself in the land of bait makers here. Everyone here is extremely helpful and listening to their advice will only make you better at this amazing hobby. There have been so many good tips provided here and I'd like to give you a couple as well. Just a couple of tips to make things easier for you I guess. I used to have HP
    4 points
  2. @Skeeter what I know that is different about it is that it was designed to have no toxic fumes because several well known lure makers had died of cancer and Joe, the guy that developed it, did so as a response to that. As far as anything about the product that makes it more suited to lure making I am not sure. It does work like a charm though. First time using it and I got the best, nearly flawless topcoat I’ve ever gotten:
    4 points
  3. Rubbish, the dolphin showed no interest in the lure what so ever! Just kidding, great work, looks amazing Dave
    4 points
  4. RPM - It must have been a huge buoyancy force to have that effect, as you stated. The other clue is the 'thumping' action. This is an indication that the lure is swimming at a very steep angle. The drag from the lip is very high but the down force is small. The optimum angle is around 45 degrees for maximum depth. This smaller angle presents less lip, so less thump but more down force. To achieve this, your tow eye needs to go further forward. Dave
    4 points
  5. This is a tale of multiple ‘happy accidents’ making a memorable lure. I have a bond with this lure that is tempting me to not retire it, even though it belongs on the wall now. My favorite lure is one I call Dicky Moe after the whale in a Tom & Jerry cartoon. The cartoon whale was the first thing I thought of when the lure was finished. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bttiQVVweJE It is all white, 9.75” long, and weighs 3.1 oz. without the hooks. The bait came out longer than expected because I forgot to take into account the joint gaps would add close to an inch of length
    3 points
  6. Sealing? NO Base coating? normally yes to get a good paint job.
    3 points
  7. A quick video highlighting a few modifications to my 10" WEN 3962 bandsaw http://rvbprecision.com/machine-tools-welding/wen-3962-bandsaw-modifications-walk-around.html
    3 points
  8. Selling baits... Few ways to go with depending on your goals. Identify your goals and do what best suits those goals. High end quality baits aimed at getting $$$$$, knocking out baits quick and selling numbers for cheap, are you trying to just break even, make money, etc.. Finally I will say do a search about Federal Excise Tax and fishing lures....at least be aware of Form 720 Part II No. 41.
    3 points
  9. There are a bunch of different types of lipless crankbaits. A flatfish is just one type of many different types of lipless cranks. The one in your pic was a common style years ago similar to the Heddon Bayou Boogie, Pico Chico, Storm Whiz Bang, Buckeye Shad Lipless Crank. Poe's also made a lipless back in the day similar to your pic. Although some of the older style baits are still being sold, that older style seems to have fallen out of favor since the Rattle Trap type baits gained in popularity. Your pic does have the line tie lower than most of the older baits. The pictured lure'
    3 points
  10. Why would you need to modify the mold? Do you want to use a different hook that might not fit? Are you wanting to change or add something? You only have to modify a mold if you want to use a hook that doesn't fit, or if you want to add a wire keeper or something else. I'll be honest, get a mold that you want that has all the elements you want without making changes. Don't worry about the hook brand, if you don't like a hook that the mold calls for there usually are alternatives and members here will let you know what fits. I say that because a lot of times a modified mold could get finicky and
    3 points
  11. Man.....what an INCREDIBLE thread! This is why I am here to stay. I want to learn and one cannot help but do so by watching you all converse about such topics. You have all proven time and time again to be very intelligent and deeply creative, each of you in your own right, thinkers and craftsmen. This is hands down the most helpful and knowledgable community on the Interwebs. I'd rather read threads like this than "Netflix and Chill" any day. Great stuff! I came into this hobby two years ago from a nearly zero woodworking background and because of everyone here I am making baits that I
    3 points
  12. I like double pin joints, this gives maximum freedom to the hinge as one joint has two pivots. Strength-wise, the load is distributed along the length of the pin, perpendicular to the pull direction, you would have to rip the lure in half to break it. There are so many joint solutions and I cannot say that any are particularly bad. Whether a joint will fail or not all comes down to your design; screw-eyes too short, area around pin to thin, inadequate sealing, etc. Hinges are all about free movement, even the slightest resistance to movement will cancel out the action. Rear facing V-
    3 points
  13. Amazing how efficiency picks up when using 18 molds.
    3 points
  14. Lots of good info and advice given here. It would take me a week to put my thoughts down on the subject in such a way that would be helpful. I have a tendency to talk in circles and am much better at building than explaining things. I don't have a physics degree or any knowledge other than what I've learned through many years of screwing up. My advice for any new builder is to try to duplicate an existing bait that is a known producer. Templates for different styles are out there if you look around online. My first builds were a Shad Rap profile that I was able to find this pattern for. B
    3 points
  15. 3 points
  16. So I finished my first batch. Thank-you everyone for the advice. Worth it's weight in gold. Quite happy with the way the run. Made MANY mistakes along the way. Not happy with how blotchy the epoxy set. I made a rotisserie, and hit them with a heat gun - but not the most ideal finish to be honest (30 minute epoxy). My eyes aren't the size I wanted - I had ordered some online, and are"6-8 weeks behind" on shipping. I had to pivot and get other ones - that don't fit the way I want. I used an avacado bag for the scales - my template didn't show up. I need a good firetiger template.
    3 points
  17. I've made several large deep diving lures that hit 25+ feet (obviously speed/how much line makes a different). These are trolling baits, 14" (plus 3" of lip) 12-16oz. I think the tow point makes a huge difference, how far up or down the lip or the body it is. It is the pivot of how much your lip can rotate "down" and pull the bait with it. Now I'm only speaking from making large lures, so I think there is more room for error or variances in weight and slight imperfections. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but how much does the actual weight of a deep diver make a difference. From my
    3 points
  18. For some reason, I could not post to this thread until now. I was getting Error code: 1S160/2 I have had some failures that should make any lure maker feel better about themselves: 1. I made a one piece glide/jerk bait out of a piece of wood. It looked like oak. I only put in a couple of small ballast weights. I did not test it before finishing. The lure sinks faster than a piece of lead. I drilled most of the lead out, touched up the paint, and it still sinks fast. In an attempt to re-purpose it, I added a line tie a third of the way down the back to vertically jig it, like a bi
    3 points
  19. I spent a little less than a year working in a lab at a metal and alloy plant while my wife was finishing up her masters wasn't a bad experience at all. My only knock was how dirty a job it was and that every morning when walking out to the car would have the finest "glitter" coating me. My wife used to joke I had been at strip club all night.
    3 points
  20. Amazing anyone has ever made a lure with the difficulty..........
    3 points
  21. My purpose in explaining 304 v 304L was merely to show the basic difference as it applies to lure building. I did not want to see a lure builder pay more or even the same for 304L, when its performance is a bit less than 304 in lure building. I was not trying to give a tutorial on welding let alone annealing a weld. Hence, 'the heating the crap out of it' non-technical term. I guess I should have put that in my post. My apologies. Dave, you are correct. Anyone doing welding should do their own research and not attempt to learn skills like that on a lure building forum. I didn't even hav
    3 points
  22. 304 is the most common stainless wire fortunately for us. Yes it is soft and it bends easily, again, fortunately for us. 304 also cold work hardens. This means that when you work it into a series of tight bends when making a twisted eye, the material automatically hardens, as you will discover if you try to unwind a tight set of coils. This again is in our favour. So, don't be fooled in to thinking that this material is too soft for our purposes. Once bent into the shape that we want, it automatically toughens up. When I have tested SS twisted eyes with heavy loads, there was di
    3 points
  23. So much good info already! Check out this video for a solid looking through-wire method. I think it lines up with what @eastman03 is talking about: A bandsaw is super helpful! I was able to pick one up on Craigslist for $20. They don't typically go that cheap, but don't think you can't find one if you look long enough. As for making and cutting lips, what thicknesses and materials do you all prefer? I know there's going to be a difference from a bass bait to a muskie bait. What thickness polycarbonate can be cut with snips?
    2 points
  24. Lots of great advice here already! I like hearing that you want to make thru wire, as a musky lure maker I agree! As far a lips, i like lexan. Could probably use a coping saw to get close (or jig saw), they are cheap and can cut rounded edges. Then files/sander to finish the job. A belt sander with the small disc sander attached would be extremely helpful! I use mine a lot. Ideally in the future, a bandsaw for sure. Through wire methods all have their pros and cons. Cutting the lure right in half can make the final product more seamless, as you can dremel or use a knife to hi
    2 points
  25. I use 1/4" and 3/16" lead wire, so all I have to do is drill that size hole, and super glue in the correct weight of wire. Here is one source, but there are others online: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bullet-weights-lead-wire?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Shop|Generic|AllProducts|High|SSCCatchAll&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4EtgIb3rOqrUGUiDN1LzC_kIEFWfbGsqSVf0GUJPMuyGigThCO48_rcaAlAbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
    2 points
  26. For awhile I was finishing rapid prototypes and using them to make silicone molds... and rapid prototypes have build lines all through it - so required alot of sanding. If you really want to super smooth - you'll probably need to use a auto primer (spray can is fine) and wet sand down in steps from 240 to a 1000 grit - even finer if your picky. Even at 600 grit you'll still see lines picked up with a silicone mold - silicone is unforgiving and is usually formulated to pick up the fine details. I'd wax/buff the hell out the to part create a layer of protection between the part/paint and
    2 points
  27. Fairly straight forward equation and several online calculators or if you have an experience with excel can whip it out. Volume of the hole (cylinder) is needed then you multiply by density. So the weight would be: Wt=[π⋅r2⋅h]⋅ d So all you need to do is substitute in your known variables. We know pi, r2 is equal to the diameter (simply the drill bit size used), h would be the height or in our case the depth of the hole, and finally d is the density of the material used to fill the hole.
    2 points
  28. My favorite metallic colors are: Wicked gold, Wicked silver, and Craftsmart metallic Titanium (if you can find it). But if you want true metallic shine, get some fingernail art foil in metallic silver and holographic silver. There are tutorials on this forum on how to do this. Metallic paints can be applied over a black or white base. The effects are quite different. A quick pass fine mist can also be sprayed over a completed paint job. It acts almost like glitter. Have fun
    2 points
  29. Hi everyone and thank you for taking the time to read my post. With the ice fishing season just getting started in my area (Saginaw Bay Mi). I thought I would try to make some soft plastic baits for ice fishing. I picked up a couple of maggot molds a few months ago to make baits for the Blue Gill we get in the canals in the fall. I thought I would try my luck at making a core shot maggot. This is what I came up with. The mold wasn’t made to do this and I didn’t do any modifications to the mold at all. They make core shot molds for worms, Ned worms, and paddle tails but I didn’t find what I was
    2 points
  30. You could also try double hooks on the belly like a Mustad 7982 or 7825. Owner and Gamakatsu make a double hook too. It seems like they would cause very little if any rash. I have seen them in sizes up to 5/0. I don't think heavy musky rings like Wolverines or Rasco XH or XXH would slide out. But if it looks like they might, you could use a piece of heat shrink tube on the shank. I have not tried them yet on hard baits.
    2 points
  31. Thanks, yea totally use the idea. I'm definitely not the first one to do this! Honestly, I don't exactly make lures just to sell, but I made a few of these as gifts last year, and they were super popular. So I made more this year, and sold more than I could make before Christmas. You end up reaching a MASSIVE demographic of people who would never buy a lure, but know someone in their life who loves hunting/fishing. It makes a great gift for any "man cave".
    2 points
  32. Try posting this in the Wire Baits forum. You'll probably get better ideas there. For lead ingots Ebay.
    2 points
  33. I tried that, years ago, but my ex-wife got pissed.
    2 points
  34. Wasn't saying it was a scam just I doubt it is much more than a repackaged product. I have come across the product on a few forums and some of the claims made by users should be highlighted on the site as it would really separate it from other similar products. However no real attempt has been made. I have no doubt the product works. I have used Etex Light, Devcon, Bob Smith, and several DIY bar top epoxies with out much issue either (only make bass baits). I wouldn't hesitate to try it.
    2 points
  35. There are no real claims on their "site" for a reason. Much of what one hears regarding the product are just guys making claims. Their site isn't really put together that well compared to most businesses/companies would put together. Guarantee if they had tested the product they would clearly have it listed on the site. Also will notice (may have overlooked it) that no SDS is on the site for the product. I think it is more likely a guy found a way to make some supplemental income and it is just a repackaged product with a markup. Perhaps something from Specialty Resin. https
    2 points
  36. https://trueglidelures.com/product/truecoat-quart-kit-2-16oz-bottles/
    2 points
  37. Shouldn't be a problem as you NEVER let ANY resin product touch your skin. If you can smell it then you need ventilation, mix it outside or use a fan. Dave
    2 points
  38. At the very least we would need more information on your bait. I tested some baits and did a YouTube video (my wife deleted my channel a few years ago) showing a jointed lure I did with just light pins molded into Alumilite White, with a foam core, lures. The pull weight was well over a hundred pounds for the two pins and the torque was well over 50. So, for that construction, a simple small pin molded in was more than enough. If I was making that bait out of Balsa, I sure would not expect that kind of result. So, depends, but through-wire is not always necessary.
    2 points
  39. Solid tip right there! I'll have to remember that if I ever use those. I have a bunch in a box but never used them before. But those are GREAT first lures! I can't build a crankbait to save my life so this is much better than I've ever done.
    2 points
  40. Yeah, I'm a solid 4-5 hours north of you yet, so everything here has been frozen for over a month already. Luckily, a friend of mine owns a restaurant/bar in a hotel, and his brother owns the hotel, so they let me use the pool late Sunday evenings if I need. I always be sure to patronize the bar for dinner & a beer to say thanks.
    2 points
  41. Molds are really the limiting factor starting out in my opinion. Everything else is secondary and really won't increase production by any meaningful amount in my experiences.
    2 points
  42. In addition, I need to re-evaluate my thoughts on the subject, as expressed in my reply to Travis. buoyancy obviously has more of an affect than I thought. This is what makes TU such a good learning environment. Thanks for the enlightenment RPM Dave
    2 points
  43. Mark yes they did, surprisingly they caught really large trophy bass. Last time I talked to the doc he said he caught at leat 10 over 6lbs with one close to 10lbs Thanks again. Rich
    2 points
  44. Dave heres something for you to ponder. Back this summer I had an opportunity to fish a trophy private lake owned by a local Doctor, avid fisherman who loves Handcrafted crankbaits and trophy bass. He asked me to build him a few special Big Bass Baits, so we decided on huge crankbaits. I built 4 total 2 square bills and 2 deep divers, Huge baits, I mean 4.25" L X 2" Wide bodies not counting the lips, one of the sqaure bills weighed just over 2 oz, and the other weighed right at 3 oz, the Deep divers both weighed over 3oz with one close to 4oz, sorry I dont have my notes in fron of me. The Squa
    2 points
  45. Mark - I will bow to experience never having built a deep diver. I have only shallow waters available to me. Deep divers are a complex lure, all about balance above and below the tow eye, so tow eye proportional positioning is everything. Deep diver theory needs to be a different thread, and all I can contribute is hypotheses, ideas. Dave
    2 points
  46. I did a video that compared lip shapes. The difference between square and round was very minimal, so I prefer square, they are easier to produce and alignment is easier to visualize. Dave
    2 points
  47. Hey guys, you can glue your diving bills in the matter of seconds using UV GLUE.It is even easier and faster if you have a hand torch to set the glue with. The UV rays pass right through the lexan like a window and set it..I doubt this will work on computer board lips..Nathan
    2 points
  48. In my post about getting the screw eye holes in the EXACT middle of the lure, I had mentioned a jig I made for use with a flush trim bit on a router table. It occurred to me that some folks might like to see it. So, here it is: Used 1/2" plywood for the base, and did the profile for the back of the lure on the band saw and then the belt sander. Drilled 5/16" holes, then used a forstner bit to recess the heads of the t-bolts so it would sit flat on the router table and the t-bolts wouldn't scratch things up. Used a 3/8" trim bit to rou
    2 points
  49. Easy.... You have to invest in machinery and tooling and take the human element out of it.
    2 points
×
×
  • Create New...
Top