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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/30/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Most of the major brands have a wide array of colors. It is hard to just single out one brand. SK has a lot of colors I like. 6th Sense makes some nice ones too. When I make a lure, the color just comes down to personal preference or perhaps to fill a hole in the color spectrum that I can’t buy elsewhere. I repaint some brand name lures with black or black with blue flake because that color is hard to find in a hard bait. At night, dawn/dusk, and in muddy water, black is usually a great choice. A lot of people use a certain color based on confidence. I think that becomes a self-fulling prophecy. Once you catch a fish on a lure, you get some confidence in it. When you have confidence in a lure, you will fish it more often, take more care with your cast targeting, retrieve speed, imparting any action, etc. I am probably more attentive when fishing a lure I have caught fish on and rarely miss a hook set. That lure then becomes more successful and one of my go-to baits through my subconscious actions and not really due to any extra detail level in the paint scheme. I tend to give up more quickly on an unproven bait or color choice. That unproven lure or color pattern may not get a fair chance to be successful. That is why the guy who uses the same craw pattern for 20 years catches most of his fish on it. He is throwing that lure way more than other options. In my area, we have no shad. We have golden shiners, yellow perch, bluegill, and smelt. You see more gold lures being used in my area as opposed to the sexy shad color. Gold with black back and orange throat is very effective because it duplicates most of the local baitfish. But, as Azsouth said, the opposite can also be true on a heavily fished body of water. If the fish see hundreds of the same color lure going by, some different color (even an unrealistic color) maybe more successful. I have used lures that ranged from incredibly detailed to cartoonish color schemes. Overall, I have not seen the detailed ones out perform the simple paint schemes. On a particular day, one may outperform the other. For example, in clear water with a slow presentation, the detail does probably help because the fish get a much better chance to see the detail. I admit that I do admire a great detailed paint job. But, I think the lure's action, diving depth, and overall color are more important than any realistic detail.
  2. 4 points
    Good reply Anglinarcher. My prey are bawal, a deep bodied very aggressive fish, which explains why I only need a belly hook. Dave
  3. 4 points
    Tough question for sure, and a lot of personal opinion is involved. Personally I think it depends on the size of lure, the type of fish you are after, even the type of lure you are making. I should take more time to explain myself on this, but this is the short version. (This could take a chapter of a book to explain) On species that are less aggressive, like many freshwater trout species, I find that the tail hook is important. On larger lures, lures that often work much better than people think, the trout will tail tug or test the lure first and tail hooks really up-the-catch rate. Still, when the fish are aggressive, the trout will hit the front and on larger lures a tail-only hook will miss the strike. On species that are more aggressive, the real predator species, or any species that is fired up, they are eating and an eating fish eats head first so that they can swallow the fish (presumed thing we are imitating) without the fins chocking (getting stuck in the throat) the predator. Even species that "stun" their prey first usually strike head first or center body, so hooks placed more toward the head seem to be the ones that hook up. On lures that invoke reaction strikes, the front to center hooks usually are the ones that hook up IMHO. On lures that are strait swimmers, ones normally used for neutral mood fish (based on active, neutral, or negative moods of feeding fish) the tail hooks are often the ones that take the most fish. On negative mood fish, fish you may need to put the bait on their nose and keep it there for a time, the strike may be at any point and hook placement is always a guess. I could go on and on, and the lines get blurred a lot: for every rule there is an exception, so I don't want to even start trying to say one is better than another, but.......... here is my best advise. On smaller lures relative to fish size (how small is small?), when fishing for aggressive fish, front hooks are probably all you need. On larger lures, relative to fish size, fished for feeding fish, front of center hooks are probably more important, but tail hooks help. On any lure fished for neutral or negative fish, especially larger lures, front of center hooks and tail hooks are important. And..... well you get the point. In my experiences, I have fished a lot of very clear water. In my area, trout, like Rainbow, Cutthroat, and Browns are a common target. I have watched them follow a lure for several feet and just keep picking at the tail. Without a tail hook catching them would be impossible. On the other hand, I have also seen the same fish just appear out of the dark and grab the lure by the front and than a hook front of center is critical. As for a single hook, when used for a tail hook it works fine for me. I often replace my tail hooks with a single hook to make releasing a fish easier. When used for a front of center hook the hook often lays along side the lure and does not connect with the fish. I have used trout as an example because I have so much experience with them, but I have seen similar behavior in species in the Gulf of Mexico, off the coast in the Pacific Northwest of the USA, Musky and Pike in Minnesota, and on and on. I think it was In-Fisherman Magazine that I first saw the explanation of aggressive, neutral and negative feeding moods of fish, but consider this concept when designing your lures. It might help some to answer your questions.
  4. 4 points
    I have two new lure building spreadsheet tools available: 1 - TU resin lure calc – Designed to help with the amount of filler (MBs) and ballast required to achieve the required buoyancy without having to resort to many trial and error builds. 2 - TU wood lure calc – As above but designed for carved lures (wood, PVC or other). Many members have the Ballast Calculator, an older tool. I feel that No2 above is a better tool for this job as it takes into account internal and external hardware as well as ballast. So if anyone requests the Ballast Calculator in future, I will deliver No2 above. If anyone wants these tools, PM me with your email address and I will send both. Dave
  5. 4 points
    As I do not build gliders or jerk baits, all that I can do is throw a lot of theory out there, to help you understand how the lure works. Understanding the theory helps the builder to design a lure to take advantage of the forces accordingly. Of course, experienced glider builders will have already figured this stuff out even if they do not know the reasons why their lures work. Experience is a valuable tool, theory only gives you a ‘leg up’ at the start. As you have already figured out, this is a very complex issue with multiple factors to be taken in to consideration. The apparent ideal solution for a lure to swim a long distance with efficiency is an arrow with all the weight at the front. But we already know that this would not work in water as it does in air because of the nose down attitude, like I said; multiple factors. Also, the super aerodynamic shape of an arrow is designed NOT to produce vortices. When we fire an arrow in air for maximum distance, we apply great force and we aim up at 45°, and due to air resistance, the arrow falls at 70°+. Target sports for darts and archery only use the top of the flight arc. Also the arrow is designed not to swing from side to side, a definite requirement of the lure. As for the lure; we want it to travel in a straight line as far as possible, then on the next pull, we want the same again only in a different/opposite direction (left/right). So, what causes this desired change of direction? The answer is vortices, my favourite subject. A waggling lipped lure generates a rapid series of vortices that cause the lure to waggle left and right. The sharp lip causes vortices to be created at a relatively low speed, and the theory of the ‘Kármán vortex street’ causes the vortices to rapidly alternate left/right. But still, the lipped lure requires a minimum speed to operate. The lipless glider still creates vortices but has a much higher minimum speed to create the vortex. The operation of the lure is to tug or jerk the lure. A single vortex is created and no more as the lure is already slowed below the vortex threshold. This swirling vortex sucks on the rear half of the lure body causing it to change direction. The next jerk causes the vortex to form across the back of the lure and sucks it in the opposite direction. As the lure slows down, that single vortex is still there, working on the lure, sucking it further around. This effect can be seen on multiple section swim-baits; a steady, constant retrieve causes alternating vortices that act on the rear of the lure causing that beautiful snake action. BUT, if you jerk the jointed swim-bait, the lure curls around even 90° and beyond. Check out the video, you can almost see the vortex sucking the lure around in the jerk sections with a little imagination. The above is the basic mechanics of what is going on. Now we have to figure out how to use the mechanics, the theory, to make the glider lure swim how we want. To start with, I use an analogy that I have talked about many times; Grab a 2 feet length of dowel in the middle in your fist. Rotate your wrist rapidly left and right. The dowel swings fairly easily. Now add ¼ pound of lead at each end of the dowel and repeat. The dowel is much more difficult to swing left and right. Now put the two weights at the center of the dowel and repeat. Once again, the dowel swings easily. This is the effect of inertia. We want the glider to change direction but we want to resist the continuing change of direction. The solution is to increase resistance to direction change by increasing inertia. By placing weight at the front and rear we increase inertia and resist the change of direction. But as always, design is a compromise. If the inertia of the lure is too great then the change of direction will be minimal or even nonexistent. You may end up with a straight swimming torpedo. Another feature is the depth of the lure body that the suction of the vortex acts upon. You may think that a deeper body with a larger surface area would resist the side movement, this would be incorrect at least according to theory; the suction force of the vortex acts on the side surface area of the lure, reduce the area and reduce the force. But yet again, design is a compromise. If you reduce your lure to a torpedo cylinder, no vortex will be created in the first place. If your lure swings excessively as it slows down then consider reducing the body depth. The reduced depth will also reduce resistance to forward motion. Once the glide motion clears the vortex, it will travel aerodynamically like a torpedo. We only require the vortex sucking effect at the initial tug of the lure, if the glider can swim clear of the vortex then it will continue in a straight line for more distance. If the glide distance is short and the lure continues to turn; reduce body depth and/or extend the weights to front and rear. If the lure does not change direction then no vortex has been created, you have a torpedo. You can add a flat to the top of the nose to help the vortex form, or increase the depth on the next build. Gliders need to naturally float horizontal, but the rest is a compromise between body depth and ballast distribution. Dave
  6. 3 points
    Possibly inspired by divine intervention or alien telepathic communication, you come up with a great idea for a lure. You spend several hours shaping the body. It comes out perfectly symmetrical. The lip slot is perfectly straight. You seal the bait and get the perfect ballast placement in your test tub. You drill the ballast hole and have no wood splintering. After installing the ballast, you re-seal the lure for added protection. You are so excited about your creation you decide to take the lure to the unfrozen portion of a small river on a cloudy dreary 30 degree day to test the action. You brave walking over slippery rocks to get to the shore, nearly face planting several times. The sun breaks through the clouds as you tie the lure on. You feel the warmth on your face as you make the first cast. The lure performs better than you imagined. As you watch the lure’s amazing action, a huge bass comes up from the depths and blasts your lure despite the lure being unpainted and the near freezing water temperature. You get no hook up because you are testing with bent over trebles to prevent a snag. You are ecstatic about all of the monsters that will fall to the lure when it is finished in all its glory. The action is so good that on the next cast a bald eagle takes a dive at the lure. You frantically reel the lure in to prevent the eagle from stealing your precious. After your lure’s lucky escape, you get back to the shop and wait for the lure to dry for painting. After resisting the urge to paint the lure too soon, you are finally able to continue your masterpiece. With great skill and effort, you apply an incredibly detailed paint job with gill plates, fins, scales, 32 different colors, perfect shading and blending, the works. It comes out flawless. The ghosts of Michelangelo and James Heddon appear before you and inspect the lure. They simultaneously say ‘sweet’ as they disappear. You wait for the paint to thoroughly dry. You put the lure on your turner. You mix the epoxy which comes out crystal clear and bubble free. You apply a nice even epoxy coat, not too thin, not too thick. You flip the switch on the rotisserie motor. The lure starts its graceful rotation. Then… Disaster. The lure turns 2 inches before it falls out of the holding clips because you did not set the clips securely. The lure bounces off the table and onto the floor. You are momentarily stunned. You pick the lure up and see that your clear coat is now a gelatinous mess encrusted with vilest shop debris. Saw dust, grit, hair, grease blobs, clipped off fishing line bits, even a small brad nail, yup, it’s all on your bait now. You start to feel grief, but you realize you can scrape off the epoxy and sand the ruined paint, repaint, and maybe salvage the situation. Then, like a lightning bolt from the sky, it hits you; the crushing weight of your own stupidity. You realize the fall also cracked the lure’s lip. Your only solace is cracking a cold beer and weeping in the corner. This is what the beer frig is for.
  7. 3 points
    I've tried the adhesive backs stuff.... like hvac tape and such - WAY thicker than the stuff I'm using. For something large or a flat side crank the HVAC stuff is not bad - but no where near as "flexible" for the really contoured stuff. I use a light spray of Super 77 - then press this thin foil down, working it with my fingers to get it as flat as I can over half the bait.... I then use popsicle sticks I've sanded/shaped to press and burnish it down into the details and rub flat the wrinkles as best I can. In some instances this stuff will rip if your a little too physical with it.... but if you look in the pics - on one of the tops I've added a few tiny piece to cover the rips and pressed it down - you can barely see it - I'm hoping with a shot of clear coat it will all be smooth before I start painting over it. I will admit - it dos seem to lose it's "shine" as it's worked.... but still has more reflection/bling than any paint I've used. I believe the thinner the material the better... I'll look into the candy foil - cost isn't an issue - more just finding the right stuff. J
  8. 3 points
    I understand experimenting to pass the time, seek better understanding of materials and procedures, or whatever. But I agree with Anglinarcher. It probably won’t result in a better bait than simply using one body material. Experience taught me that keeping things simple while building a bait results in fewer problems, less variability, and baits that work and catch fish.better. Just my opinion.
  9. 3 points
    I agree with alot of what JD_mudbug said - as well as others.... I feel with cranks - I paint because I love the hobby and want to enjoy what I fish with - plus it's fun to tell the guys I fish with I have something special for that lake they dont!! LOL!. But let's be honest - the Idea that I can paint/finish a blank better than Lucky Craft or Strike King is laughable. Granted - a true custom crank you design and build is a different discussion - but if we talking painting blanks from the internet - it's more of a hobby and enjoyment mixed with what I think works in my area. Some of my repaints are because I buy old school baits like Arbogast MudBugs and trying to find what I want at a price I'm willing to spend is super tough if not impossible... so I buy the roughest/cheapest looking ones I can find in the size I like and clean them up to repaint and get he finish I want. For what colors to paint - I base it on 4 things. One - what's worked in the past. Two is the small fish/bait fish in my area (Alwieve, perch, sunfish, etc.). Third is water clarity - some lakes are muddy like chocolate at times so I paint things "brighter" on a couple. Last - if one of the guys I fish with has been catching them on a certain color/scheme - I'll mimic that with a twist. Let's be honest - if your burning a crank or even just running it normally - does the fish really see that tiny scale pattern or the slight fade of translucent purple I added to blend the top to the sides? LOL. No way. Does it see the overall shape and bold shades of color - likely. I do take a little more time on things like jerkbaits where in the early spring I'm pausing that bait 20-30 seconds between movements - I assume some of those fish get a good look - so having something a little bit more subtle and realistic I think/hope can help - but again - I've caught fish on unpainted lures I was working on to figure out hook/ring combos... so maybe this color thing is a joke at times! J.
  10. 3 points
    Anglin, Thank you for taking the time to explain this. Fantastic post right there. I learned a lot. I'll use all of this as I move forward with my lure making. Thanks again! Most of the trout I fish for are 'stocked"....and I would think might not be anywhere as aggressive as a wild trout. This might be why the fish I catch are only tail hooked. Like you said, they are simply nibbling at the tail of the lure.
  11. 2 points
    I have been using super glue since the 70's, so this is kind of embarrassing to admit, but I just figured out how to keep the little silicone caps on my ZAP super glue from getting clogged with dried glue and then sticking to the glue nozzle. I took the same artists brush I use to apply the grease to my reel gears and put a light coating on the inside of the cap and on the shaft of the nozzle. Amazing, no more stuck caps!
  12. 2 points
    Sorry for the distraction, I shouldn't have done that. But I will say; don't be so judgemental to the homeless as you do not know their story. Most people are two or three bad decisions away from the streets. Be grateful for what you have. Issue closed, let's move on Dave
  13. 2 points
    I've read a number of your posts - I very much like your scientific approach!!! I'm mixing the epoxy in disposable plastic cups that are graduated in ml, like the type you'd find on the top of a bottle of NyQuil. I'm mixing it with disposable plastic sticks that look like sucker sticks. I'm applying it with disposable plastic brushes that are used by rod builders ($25/100). The compressor is fitted with not one, but two moisture traps. I always spray my hand first to make sure it's truly dry and empty. The gloves are single-use disposable latex that I got on Amazon. I found this post particularly interesting - https://www.crosslinktech.com/articles/fish-eyes-in-epoxy-or-polyurethane-coating.html as it talks about the actual reason that fisheyes occur, rather than the things that can cause them. That's what led me to the conclusion that it was likely the paint, since they seem to be happening mostly on the back of the bait, which was finished with a thick (many layers) coating of pearl black and is very slick (you can tell just by looking at it).
  14. 2 points
    , Bill, i know you never noticed, but this is a 12 year old thread that you've replied to.
  15. 2 points
    I'm seeing a common thread here in these posts. That is "new users" who seem to have posted only in this thread, but nowhere else on the site, solely to promote their products. If you are a seller of these types of blanks, please don't use forum threads to promote your products. If you have products that you'd like to promote on TU, please sign up for a monthly agreement to advertise. If you don't want to spend money to promote your products, you can add a free listing for your website here: https://www.tackleunderground.com/website-links/ Thank you in advance for your cooperation.
  16. 2 points
    I just posted a picture of two 3 1/2" squarebills I just finished. I've been laid up with bursitis in my left shoulder, so I can't do anything except make baits. I've already reorganized my garage and boat. Twice. Hahaha Here's a link in case the photo doesn't show:
  17. 2 points
    Yup darice metallic mesh. https://www.amazon.ca/Darice-2913-103-Metallic-Mesh-Silver/dp/B01MTLK35Z Just an example, I'm sure you can find it in most craft stores or online. Check our Jekyll Productions on youtube, she has a lot of videos about painting lures. And she has a few where she talks about how to use this mesh to get a really good result.
  18. 2 points
    Thank you AZ Fisher!
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    I use clear nail polish to keep my 3D eyes on my swim jigs.
  21. 2 points
    Hey TU Folks! I was making some silicone molds the other day and noticed up on a shelf that I have a ton of pigments that I rarely use. I've been tossing around the idea of a hard bait with plastic or rubber fins and was wondering: Does anyone know whether or not adding these (mica powder) pigments to clear silicone hinders the silicone's ability to set properly? I was thinking I could just order some clear silicone and add the pigments to make fins for hard baits. Have any of you ever tried this or have a better method of making fins? Thanks!
  22. 2 points
    Many thanks for the reply's guy's, So true Dave, Marlings quirky personality makes him very easy to watch but I think he's much smarter than he lets on. Cheers for all the feedback and I guess its just time at the workbench that matters now. I should have a couple progress shot's before long.
  23. 2 points
    Loved the video. Good personality, very entertaining with great skills. And, he followed up with water time. knowledge was shown in the conclusions regarding the weight distribution hampering the crank action, this all made perfect sense. Personally I cannot work like this; hacking two pieces of wood together not knowing if they will float or sink. I would have to do numbers first, but that is just me. Your plan is good, including some ballast adjusting options. I am sure you will have success. Dave
  24. 2 points
    Yes sir, I have found several color variations for the desert southwest, I did use mass produced colors as a starting point but tweaked the colors over the years, some are fairly close variations while others literally I have had people laugh at until they see how they catch fish. 5 different variations of the 1.5 just with paint, total about 20 different variations of the same bait with finish, snap rings and hooks. Sometimes it was as easy as just lightening up a color or 2 on a bait, Other times very bold colors instead. One of the main differences that I do is fade/feather my paint into the next color and add a highlight overall that can only be seen at direct angles. I am always pushing the limits of the baits with weight, multiple coats of finish, split rings and hooks size.
  25. 2 points
    I am not quite sure how they were made. I have multiples of some of those types of baits. On the some of the ones I have fished, the hook rash has gone through to the body. So, I can tell they are not printed decals. It looks like some base colors were painted, then some highlight colors painted in certain areas probably by stencil, then an ink stamp was used to make the fine details (scales/fins/lateral line/gill plate/ circles around the eyes), and on some color schemes then additional paint was applied in select areas on top of the fine detail. The fine details are typically black ink. Some of black details are so fine and crisp it looks like it has to be ink and not paint. I don't think they could do that type of printing in the 70s and 80s so I am guessing it is a stamp. The mud-bug for instance - painted brown on the back, then yellow painted in areas with a stencil, then the black carapace marks stamped? on there. The mud-bug bellies are either pearl or orange depending on the lure and black leg outlines stamped on.
  26. 2 points
    I fish with a lot of older lures. I got lucky back in the 80s and 90s and was able to get a couple of large stockpiles of old Arbogast, Heddon, Rebel, Bomber, Creek Chub, Bagleys, Storm, Manns lures . Some of those old lures have incredibly detailed paint jobs that rival today’s lures. Arbogast had the Seein’s Believin series. Bagley’s had the Small Fry series, Rebel had the Naturalized Series, etc. At the same time, those companies also made some very simple colors. My original Seein’s Believin Mud-bugs and my repaint Mud-bugs in black with gold glitter are in a battle for my favorite mid-depth crank bait. It’s been going on for 30 years. The paint scheme debate will never end. That’s one of the things that make the hobby great. 'Old' lures from the 80s: Mann's Leroy Brown Arbogast Seein's Believin Mud-bug Deep Wee R in Naturalized Perch
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
    This gets me real close to Yamamoto watermelon , 8 oz plastic add salt black flack 16 drops Lure Craft watermelon ( mite be 4-5 years old ? not sure if it matches the formula they have now ? ) it is not the same as they had before this . 8 drops lure craft root beer 2 drops lure craft black
  31. 2 points
    Hello anglers friends, greetings from Peru. It has passed long time since my last visit to the Forum. I hope you all and your families are doing well. After more than three years without posting any video of my work in my Youtube channel, I restarted again to work on one of my favorites hobbies which is lure making. I want to share the last lures that I’m making for trout fishing at my homeshop. I think that the passion and emotion that every angler who ties or make a wooden lure is the same. Our common dream is to catch our beautiful preys with something done by ourselves. This time, I want to talk and show these tiny balsa wooden lures made with the purpose to have fun when I go for catching trouts in the creeks located in Peruvian highlands. The Attila Trout Hunter is a tiny lure made of Balsa wood, about 1 5/8” length (4cm), 5/16 oz weight (3.2gr), fantasy and natural colours, armed with #12 or #14 Gamakatsu hooks, and small 3D homemade eyes. Something important to say, each lure is “one of a kind”. To have a plenty and pleasure fishing experience using the Attila Trout Hunter, it’s needed to use a good ultralight equipment (UL rod 5.5', 6-8 lbs line, 10-12 FC leader). In this way you can be accurate when casting these light lures, and when you catch a trout feel in HD the fight with those gorgeous fishes. Something to remark, given that I love the beautiness of trouts, I always do C&R. Therefore, before to use any of these lures, first I kill all hooks barbs. I invite you to watch my video using the below link, and please let me know your thoughts, and give me your comments and recommendations. Thanks, https://youtu.be/cnfk_dn9U-E
  32. 2 points
    I definitely appreciate what your saying Dave. Making masters is definitely a viable option and there a number of approaches from just printing the bait, to printing a half injection mould with the master still in it for each side. Surprisingly, injecting at approx 150 deg C / 302 F produces some great baits, with only the warping of the mould to contend with. Ill get 10 - 15 runs of baits through a PLA + mould before the mould starts to bow and get flashing on the baits. There are higher heat filaments available, but my poor little printer cant get the hot bed hot enough for the halves to adhere correctly. For rapid prototyping I definitely prefer just injecting straight into the plastic. When I can reprint a 6 slot mould overnight, the 2 or 3 days of work to make a pop mould is a bit beyond. Especially when i am testing 1 - 4 moulds a week when I get inspired
  33. 2 points
    I have the lurecraft & it doesn't take much to do you because it is pretty strong stuff.
  34. 2 points
    Unfortunately, the PLA melting point is roughly the same temperature that you are pouring, and so severe distortion is unavoidable. You need to find a printing material with a higher temperature tolerance. Distortion can be mitigated by load spreading plates and plenty of clamping. But you still have the problem of pouring into an insulating material with poor cooling qualities. I don't own a printer but class myself as a CAD expert seeing as CAD design has been my job for 35 years. Also, I am hard-baits and so not hampered by the extreme temperatures of the soft-bait pourer. The best that you can do IMO, is print a master and then cast it in POP or some other casting material that can take the heat. As far as hard-baits is concerned, my plan was to print a PLA negative mold to cast a positive mold in another material, designing the PLA negative such that the resulting positive was symmetrical, in other words, both mold halves were identical, so only one PLA master was needed. Unfortunately, the heat distortion from the exothermic reaction of POP or other cast materials made mating the halves impossible. With my financials being stretched and 3D prints costing $100 a time, I cannot throw money at a whim. However, I have a lure design on the go that needs building, and the replication accuracy required means that only 3D printing can give me what I want. I will have to design a positive and print both halves for pouring polyester resin. The design will have a ridiculous number of clamping holes and load spreading wooden plates. The design will help me to determine the minimum clamping required as I try various clamp configurations. I am trying to summon up the enthusiasm to hit the design again as lure wall thickness was a problem on my last attempt, giving incomplete pours. I really do need my own printer as this project is costing me way too much in 3rd party services. I know it makes fiscal sense, but I want to see some success before I commit. The beauty is that if the design is successful, I could take it straight to production injection molding on a grand scale with confidence. Good luck with your project. Dave
  35. 2 points
    Been doing it for a few months. I have a basic FDM printer, the ANET A2. I can print moulds and have them inject well with PLA at 0.1mm and 40% fill, but the moulds will warp from the heat over time. Its great for testing ideas, but you do end up with lines from the layers in the final bait. I know some guys who use resin printers, which can print even finer again and they say they get no lines on their baits, but i havent seen the baits close up to be sure.
  36. 2 points
    You could bend them with some nails. Put some nail in a board where you want them and then bend away. You may have to re-locate the nails a few times to get what you want, but it is cheap and easy. Also 24 ga. wire is easy to bend. Good luck and Welcome to TU.
  37. 2 points
    OK, I think that I have cracked the sink rate calculation. Because the plan view shape and cross sectional shape cannot be tabulated, I have used the lure volume and the lure length to calculate the dimensions of a cylindrical body and applied the sink rate formula to this compromise body. I have to say that the numbers look very good. All you have to do is enter the lure length, the lure weight and use ‘Archimedes Dunk Test’ to enter the lure volume. The green boxes show the percentage float (less than 100% = sinker) and the sink rate in inches. The tool is another spreadsheet. PM me your email address if you want to have a play. Dave
  38. 2 points
    I can get close by test floating a jerkbait in 60 degree water in my shop. My water gets colder than that, but I use is as a starting point. On the water, I can adjust the float/sink by using either monofilament, which floats, or fluorocarbon, which sinks. Close counts. As long as the bait moves very slowly, either up or down, at rest it will work. Having the patience to test in the shop is the key, because I start with a known quantity that I can adjust on the water.
  39. 2 points
    That's pike fishing for ya. Sometimes when I'm throwing big waling baits at pike they'll miss the bait by three feet or land on top of it and get snagged.
  40. 2 points
    If I am making a bait that I’m likely to lose a lot of, then fingernail polish is fine. If it’s a bait that I’m not likely to lose and will use overtime, then I powder paint.
  41. 2 points
    McLuvin is right. I get that on a lizard mold I have as well. You can try a couple things: Without messing with mold - try different temps - maybe a little hotter shot might let that air push out before closing up. Try different filling speeds.... maybe a slower push on plunger will allow air to evacuate easier before shutting off. I'd also try faster cause sometimes logic doesn't work in physics. LOL! If you just can't get those bubbles out with temp/speed/etc. you might need to mess with the mold. If I were to do it - I'd probably open the vents at the legs to push that air out a little easier. Maybe even score a few in between each leg at top of each rib . Sometimes bodies with ribs work great - sometimes they are just a PITA. You can probably use a utility knife to score the mold - you don't need a big cut to let air out... score with knife then wet sand a little bit with 400-600 sand paper to remove burr. If that didn't do it... I'd also think about filing a slight round on the edge where the bubble stops - which looks like right at the edge of the legs... might help that air "roll" around into the leg and out the vent.... I think you can probably get most of it out with process (heat/pressure/speed)... but some molds are just annoying. J.
  42. 2 points
    The testing of the ‘Lure Resin and Filler Calculator’ is completed. I am VERY grateful for the time, materials and effort that member ‘AndyUK’ put in on this project. Anyone who would like to test out the spreadsheet tool, simply PM me with your email address. Dave
  43. 2 points
    If you are just looking to take the shine off of the shiny lead jigheads to fish them and make them look more natural you can paint them with a permanent marker such as a black or brown sharpie . The paint job will rub off over time from rocks but if you bring the pen along you can touch up the bare spots . Not as good looking as paint but works surprising well in a pinch .
  44. 2 points
    Yes, welcome. Unusual for a new member's first post to have such impact (I hate the term 'newby') Dave
  45. 2 points
  46. 2 points
    Charge more???? LOL!! J.
  47. 2 points
    Fishorfie - I will not release the file until it has been fully tested. Dave
  48. 2 points
    Anglinarcher - AndyUK may well be a beginner when it comes to lure building, but he is certainly not new to engineering, and fully understands what I am talking about, otherwise I would not have embarked on this tedious and time consuming project. The idea is that I take care of the complexities of the many calculations, leaving the builder with a few measurements to make and a couple of numbers to play with. My 2DP scale is repeatable, and that is the most important factor, and yes, I have a certified 500g mass. I also have a250ml class-A HERMA graduated measuring cylinder, and with 1cc being less than 1mm I will be calling BS on your claim of 1/10cc. I stick by my claim that the best you can hope for is an accuracy of 1cc and add to that a tolerance of =/+ 0.5cc. Yes, the larger the sample the better the accuracy, we should always use the largest sample possible. The reason I went down to 2DP for my gram scale was that when I was experimenting with neutral buoyancy several years ago, I found that 1DP was right on the edge for a 1DP scale. We are looking for an accuracy of 1/200th of the volume of the lure to even getting close to the accuracy required, and as you know, there are tolerances with each measurement made; resin, filler, internal hardware, external hardware, ballast. If you are lucky then the tolerances will balance each other out, but that does not always happen. And then, you have top coats to deal with. For larger lures, even a 500g scale is useless for doing water displacement measurements. I am sure you will enjoy playing with the spreadsheet, and I will send you a copy once the beta testing is done. Dave
  49. 2 points
    I build baits from scratch and I was also a Glazier, never have had a bill fall out! as a matter of fact I have broken baits trying to remove the bill that I installed. Vodkaman is right about scuffing the slot!! I personally use a 1/16 drill bit. 1. Prep bills by drilling approx 1/2 of thickness or a little less on both sides and stagger divots from opposite side. 2. Spread whatever adhesive you use on the bill making sure it is in the divots you drilled, doesn't take much. 3. Attach bill to lure and let dry for 24 hours. 4. Try to remove bill without breaking lure or the bill.
  50. 2 points
    I am retired now, but unfortunately I spent my money on wine, women and squandered the rest. I once approached a large lure business with my ideas but did not even receive a reply, their loss not mine. I have worked hours as a contractor that would make your toes curl, but was paid well. Unfortunately my investment in my local beer establishment did not pay off. I have designs, but no money to develop. Investors welcome Dave
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