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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I wish to suggest to take what you have from this thread and move out on your own path and perfect a new process using the bits of information. Post your process here and asses any received critiques. You maybe very surprised at the final results. Yes it it is too bad that we tend to lose great information from history but I am only seeing great improvement in equipment and techniques all brought to us by guys and gals with a vision, the how to, and no fear of failure. Good luck and let the imagination run!
  2. 2 points
    I use Rod Bond epoxy paste. It has a very long work time of at least an hour which I use to evaluate the lip position and tweak as required. I usually build cranks in batches of 5-6 and Rod Bond lets me mix one batch of epoxy, insert all the lips, and fuss with them to my heart’s content. I also like that it will not run out of the lip slot like a liquid can.
  3. 2 points
    I tack my bills in place with the merest dab of superglue. If alignment is not perfect, the lip can easily be dislodged for another go. Once the alignment is good, I apply more superglue (runny) which is drawn into the joint by capillary action. The top coat of epoxy around the edge of the joint completes the installation. Dave
  4. 2 points
    Many rod builders like size A nylon thread which is the thinnest diameter. For stronger, I’d switch to larger Size E nylon thread and topcoat it after application with the durable topcoat of your choice (nail polish, superglue, epoxy, MCU, etc)
  5. 2 points
    When my hobby was building VWs and Audis instead of baits, it was always: Fast, Reliable, Cheap - Pick two. Cant knock anyone for wanting to save a buck though.
  6. 2 points
    Walking Dead - Now that is a very good suggestion. Dave
  7. 2 points
    You're putting too much into this process he did not have some breakthrough process in fact many that tried it have moved on to other methods, wish I still had the CD's I would send them to you for free as I moved on not long after getting them but trust me you will be underwhelmed at the process its flat out that simple, a few bent wires of you favorite diameter and length a few disposable aluminum pans a couple cheap hot plates and some patience as you won't be breaking any records in production Also keep in mind that most folks from that time period probably aren't even on the site any more Good luck!
  8. 2 points
    The random stripes on the brookie were made using the stuff Mayberry mentoned. I double masked with the grain oriented horizontally and vertically. I got it recently at Hobby lobby (Metallic tuule - I think is what they call it). Mdot uses this a lot also. I thought it would look cool and suggest the random curved lines on the back of this species. And Mark - I think it rates as at least 2/3 of a pun. PU
  9. 2 points
    Thanks Saugerman, I've been wood working since taking shop class as a kid. So carving was I guess the natural progression for some one who loves to fish. Lol it didn't happen overnight that's for sure, days and days of carving on a lure just to find out I've been carving a turd. My wife had me make a shadow box for all my duds.... aka the wall of shame, but she loves them. Thanks again and good luck
  10. 2 points
    MtrouTx, you really are a fantastic carver. Your bait looks great. I'm sure you will get the action as you want. I'm very jealous of anyone who has that talent. I have tried it, and i just don't have that ability.
  11. 2 points
    You keep asking for cheap, But quality and reliable, you got to realize 90% of the time they do not go hand in hand.
  12. 2 points
    Go to Hobby Lobby and buy the Alumilite Quick Set. You can get a 40% off coupon on their website that will knock the price down to around $18 or so.
  13. 2 points
    Ya man buoyancy and sink rate are a pain in the a$$. Since I started fishing salt water and changed my lure design to salt water I'm constantly having to check the salinity of my test tank. Which you would think not a big deal once your dialed in, but then a few days goes by and a pint or so water evaporates and you dont test the water.... and spend 2 days trying to figure out why your glide bait is a topwater now. I'm truly glad I could inspire someone to try something again that may not have worked before. And I'll let you know how the testing goes Wednesday. Best of luck bud.
  14. 2 points
    Because I have no access to micro balloons, I have no choice but to mold a pure resin. As all the resins are roughly the same specific gravity (SG) of 1.2 (water = 1.0), I decided to go with cheap and readily available fiberglass resin. Not an ideal material; brittle, toxicity issues, shrinkage, but with careful handling it sets in minutes, cleans up with emery easily, producing a very nice lure, keeping in mind that I do not sell. Because of the SG issue, I have no choice but to make my lure hollow by assembling two molded halves together in order to get the lure to float. I have the mold design 'down', but have not produced a successful mold to date due to making the lure wall thickness too thin, the problem being the soft silicone, again, I have to work with what is available locally. Your work on this lure has definitely inspired me to have another go, starting with some CAD design. If I can get the lure to float (on paper) I will take it to the next level of 3D printing a mold master. Dave
  15. 2 points
    That hinge looks a very close fit, and as Mark states; the slightest difference in fall rate or angle would cause the hinge to bind. I would shave 0.5mm off top and bottom hinge faces, to give a little extra tolerance. If that does not fix the problem, then loosen the pin hole a tad. After these mods, you will have to step it up, float test and adjust ballast so that both sections float (or sink) level with each other. Total freedom of the joint is essential for function. Beautiful lure. Good luck with it. Dave
  16. 2 points
    Beautiful bait! You are a really talented carver! The material you cast it from is probably of a different buoyancy than your wood master, so the two sections may have different fall rates, and may not fall level. That would put a bind into the hinge joint. I found that a really free moving joint is essential, since the water moving over the bait is not creating huge vortices (thank you Vodkaman Dave) at the speeds I typically swim a glide bait. I found those two things were key for me to get my glide baits to glide in an S pattern.
  17. 2 points
    if you live close to the boarder you can get a p.o. box and have your stuff mailed to it..you can have them email you when its put in the box and ready for pick up.... drive over pick it up drive back......no Canada post or gst….save big $$$$...if not find a friend in the states to help you out...
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Welcome to TU. I have built my own, and have plans available for anyone who wants them. If you're interested, PM me your e-mail address, and I'll send them out to you.
  20. 1 point
    Anytime, Thank you sir.
  21. 1 point
    Well short of any other description they are perfect, but they tend to be on the thin side so the're not a one size fits all, i like the thin tails as they move nice in little to no current
  22. 1 point
    If I remember correctly Bojon used a steel bread loaf pan on a hot plate. Stirring the hot plastic with a wood tongue depressor. Hope this picture helps. PS - Thanks Mark
  23. 1 point
    Flyswatter ! I saved my all my broken dobyns rods from the 2”-10” above the top of the reel seat down and hack saw at whatever length you choose . You then take a cheap metal / plastic fly swatter and cut to fit inside the rod blank you just had cut your desired length . Stick itside the rod . And pour hot glue inside the rod . To hold the fly swatter secure . Use lots of hot glue until your flush with top of the hole where your fly swatter Comes out . You can choose if you want to have a longer or shorter flyswater this is a pre made Verizon . But I build my own cause it’s easy and I already had the broken Rods . Save the guides off the main portion of the rod for replacments when you bend one or pop out an insert . Someday .
  24. 1 point
    do-itmolds.com zeiners.com lurecraft.com (they sell both RTV that they do in house and sell CNC from 3 makers) basstackle.com(as far as I know, the largest selection of CNC molds) linmar.com lonestarbaits.com (baitjunky.com) jacobsbaits.com bearsbaits.com ultramolds.com enforcermolds.com (Canada based company) highrockmolds.com lsbaits.com (lakesidebait molds) Peace my brothers
  25. 1 point
    There is a healthy variety of plastic and their unique characteristics lend themselves to different applications/uses. Following is a list of many suppliers. Yes, pricing will be all over the place, but some baitmakers keep a supply of several brands on hand for different baits. Many plastic suppliers will send a sample if you just pay shipping, so you can try different brands. Good luck in your search. BUSINESS NAME - URL - BRAND SOLD - SHIPS FROM ALUMILITE - alumilite.com - THEIRS (ALUMISOL) - KALAMAZOO, MI 49007 BAIT PLASTICS - baitplastics.com - CALHOUN'S - LAWRENCEVILLE, GA 30046 BARLOW'S - barlowstackle.com - M-F - RICHARDSON, TX 75080 BASSTACKLE - basstackle.com - M-F - PHOENIX, AZ 85027 CALHOUN'S - calhounplastics.com - THEIRS (CALHOUN'S) - CALHOUN, GA 30701 CHEMIONICS - chemionics.com - THEIRS (CHEMIONICS) - TALMADGE, OH 44278 DO-IT - store.do-itmolds.com - THEIRS (ESSENTIAL) - DENVER, IA 50622 JACOB'S BAITS - jacobsbaits.com - M-F - TROY, OH 45343 JANN'S - jannsnetcraft.com - LURECRAFT - MAUMEE, OH 43437 LURECRAFT - lurecraft.com - THEIRS (LC) - ORLAND, IN 46776 LUREPARTS ONLINE - lurepartsonline.com - M-F / ESSENTIAL / LC - SPRINGFIELD, IL 62704 LUREWORKS (aka I SPIKE IT) - ispikeit.com - THEIRS - BROOKLET, GA 30415 MAKE LURE - makelure.com - ALUMISOL - KALAMAZOO, MI 49007 M-F - pouryourownworms.com - THEIRS (M-F) - FORT WORTH, TX 76117 OZARK TACKLE - ozarktackle.com - UNKNOWN - PEVELY, MO 63070 POLYSOL - polysolpolymers.com - THEIRS (POLYSOL) - FARMINGTON, MO 63640 ZEINER'S - zeiners.com - M-F - WICHITA, KS 67211