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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Through wire is way too much overkill......use stainless steel wire and twist your own screw eyes and set with epoxy. No fish is going to pull the hook hangers or line tie out.
  2. 3 points
    Called hook snaps
  3. 3 points
    You are using the wrong kind of beads behind the clevis, that is one problem. The beads behind the clevis aren't just a spacer, they act as a bearing for the clevis to spin on. The second part of the problem is your design, you have the weight way to far behind the blade placement.
  4. 3 points
    Nice! That stupid virus can't stop bait building!
  5. 3 points
    I am not talking lures here, but bait fishing. I have caught many fish in excess of 9Lb right through to 12.36Lb. Because of the deep body shape of the bawal fish, it offers great resistance to the strike action. Also, because of the nature of the man made ponds, I have to apply a lot of pressure to stop the fish passing through the aeration pipes that pass down the middle of the pond. My conclusion from my experiences from line breaks, and always using the latest in knot technology, is that the fish is capable of exerting a pull of 4x its weight. In my early days of fishing, it was all about using as light a line as possible. I almost landed a 10Lb carp on 2Lb line, almost, but that was what was necessary to get the fish to bite in the over-fished waters. In the ponds that I fish now, I have to use 30Lb line, with the drag set low, and a rod with way too much action, and still I get snapped. Fish can apply a force of 4x their weight is a good rule of thumb. Good technique, drag control and a quality rod action can minimize this effect. I have caught these fish on my lures, see my videos, with no damage to my screw eyes. I have done static 24 hour tests way in excess of these numbers, and a few dynamic tests with weight drops. Providing your body materials are up to the job, home made screw eyes are fine. If you insist on using aircraft standard 5Lb balsa then yes, through wire is necessary, but dense balsa, 0.3SG plus woods, screw eyes are fine. Figure out what you expect from your lure and perform tests. It is not difficult to do and will give you confidence. Dave
  6. 3 points
    I fish Santee cooper where the big girls live.......8-9lbers are common in spring... have no issues..your drag should take care of the the amount of resistance a fish may have. Throw mine on 10lb-12lb fluoro have zero issues. At the end of the day it's balsa wood, it's weak......but so are Rapala lures
  7. 3 points
    Very ironic thinking that custom cranks historically was modifying through weighting commercial baits differently to perform for specific presentations or better. In my opinion learn to weight is the only way to go if you want to be able to build a variety of lures for different presentations and conditions. Most cranks and/or top waters will not function optimally without it as you simply won't be able to get the distribution correctly for it to preform. Drop a dozen different style cranks in a bucket and you will see they all sit with a different attitude. Take the KVD 1.0 in your picture. Have you looked at the weight displacement on it? Part of the way that lure functions will be do its stance in the water and weighting is the key. If you took the weight after the hook hanger in the belly and move it to the weight infront how would that bait perform. Dive quicker, deeper, decreased side to side displacement, quicker shorter movement, etc.. How about we move the weight to the tail, no weight, put all the weight in top/back of the lure.. It all can change the performance of the same bait. You could print it more solid in areas and try to get it balanced correctly but going to be hard to do. Would be easier to print in halves and add weight and glue or print half add weight and continue printing. Or print solid bait and have chamber to drill into and insert weight and seal chamber with epoxy.
  8. 3 points
    this tutorial is on this site. I had to google it I made several out of corian scraps I had laying around. Still use them today
  9. 2 points
    The problem is pics don’t show action. Let’s be honest it’s a pretty contest lol I still would like to see it if you succeed
  10. 2 points
    https://www.lurepartsonline.com/ The people entering are typically customers of the above, who own/operate the site. It is something fun they do for customers or potential customers just like keeping this site up and going. TU real issue if you are concerned with lack of activity, members, etc.. is that it did not change with the times as some members were very keen on this not becoming a video and picture laden site as they didn't wan't some sort of "social media site". Any guesses where most new lure makers get their information, what groups they join, you tube channels, etc... Additionally guys that run those can make a dollar or two and pick up sponsors and free gear so joining and doing stuff on TU not in their best interest typically unless it brings in enough viewers to their sites.
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    Ok depends on the size of trout you are talking. Around here trout can average as pan fry 12inch trout in some waters and other areas exceed 10lbs There is one flaw to single hooks for C&R trout fishing and that is eye hooking or brain hooking trout if the hook size is a bit big compared to the trout. In my opinion a barbless treble is better for solving this issue or run smaller singles but you will loose more larger fish on the small single I owned a U catch trout pond for 10years and got to see the results of different hooks, lures, and bait/hook combo’s if you want to run singles for C&R trout think of the size of trout and pick a hook with a gape that is just small enough that it limits brain hooking on the smaller trout you catch
  13. 2 points
    I have mixed feelings about this annual competition. I see the value of all-comers, so we can see innovation and new ideas. But I am not seeing innovation or new ideas, just same old. I would like to see the competition limited to members only, and with a limit of time served, say 3 months or ten posts. It would severely limit the number of entries, but I am for the site, and these outsiders are not contributing, just trying to take. I would be tempted to make member viewing only, but that would limit the prospect for new members. BUT! I have to constantly remind myself once a year, that TU is not an exclusive club. If it was, how would I have ever have qualified with no knowledge or experience, to become a member of this club. I say to all none members reading this, who have ever taken a knife to wood, sign up and contribute. As I discovered, you do not have to be an expert to contribute. Put forward an idea, get shot down, have that idea improved, generate another idea from the original, and such is progress. I am a living testament to this process. Winning a competition is small-fry, actually contributing to your fellow designers and builders is the real buzz. Dave
  14. 2 points
    Almost didn't see the spider haha...looks sick!
  15. 2 points
    You can also make or buy a stencil with little holes, maybe in different sizes, to speed the process along if you're doing a bunch of them. The trout patterns are definitely cool.
  16. 2 points
    Al, not to be an A$$, but I offer that when the sticky was started, a number of experienced members posted recipes. Within a year or so, the discussions and question posts began. Not sure how big a job it is to clean it up but it would be nice. Maybe as a moderator, you can just delete and not have to go into the HTML file and manually delete line by line.
  17. 2 points
    I don't remember what they are called either, but just buy stainless steel wire, in the diameter that you want or need. Make sure you match the clevis to the wire diameter, so it spins freely, otherwise it will bind.
  18. 2 points
    The one thing with this mess I actually have the two new designs I wanted done for this season complete and getting molded this week I might have to revisit my paddle tail hard bait or maybe another top water or glide/jerk bait At least this hobby can help pass the time
  19. 2 points
    here in Windsor Ontario. 3 cases of corons virus. .city and country on lockdown..pretty serious stuff if your a senior as we are.
  20. 2 points
    Finally got my mold. Its an alright mold but wasn't worth the hassle. Will not order from again.
  21. 2 points
    However, if you dip a polycarbonate or plastic lip in acetone, you may get a cloudy lip. Why not just brush it on where needed?
  22. 2 points
    Dip away. The acetone will flash off quickly and will not have any noticeably effect on the bond strength as very little epoxy will be exposed to the acetone in the first place and then only very limited duration as less then 30 seconds. Devcon for example lists acetone compatibility as poor... after 7 days immersion.
  23. 2 points
    If pike are around definitely use multiple coats. for my resin pour pike baits I use 3 coats and wood baits 4-5 coats. These are seeing non stop pike abuse and some big pike so probably more than you need 2-3 coats would be my choice
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    I just use a Sharpie fine point marker.
  26. 2 points
    But do you guys have enough TP to survive is the real issue
  27. 2 points
    MF produced brown Grape & if I'm not mistaken Bears got the colors from MF. Lureworks has chameleon but it's not as deep of purple as the original brown grape.
  28. 2 points
    Just understand what he wants to do. He want to expel as much plastic back into a presto pot and leave it in there till it is needed again. Never clean it out. And with two injectors. For me having it on my injectors is necessary because I do the same thing he wants to do. When you fill the injectors and shoot molds the plastic cools and becomes thick and sometimes jelloy. This causes you to need more pressure to expel the remaining plastic. Which in turn gets remelted with the plastic left in the two presto pots. If I did not need the tips to lock then I have the option to not lock them. But in my case I need to lock them. If you don’t have anything to lock them in then there is no option. He is sounding like he wants more production from his system he uses now and he can with some simple modifications.
  29. 2 points
    Ok first tip smooth on silicone is about half the price compared to Alumilite silicone in Canada. If I remember right the last 11lbs bucket was $160 I don’t recommend it but yes you can reinforce your silicone mold with a wooden box. I made the mistake of making a mold too thin when I first started making silicone hard bait molds. Bracing it with wood and clamps made it still functional. Thin molds suck and I no longer skimp on my molds Make a test mold out of POP to prototype and if you like it buy some more silicone and make a good mold is my advice
  30. 2 points
    There are solutions to this problem. 1 - don't throw earlier prototype molds away. Cut them up, shred, and add to the mix. 2 - Buy acetic acid cure silicone. Mix with water. Cure and shred. Add to mix. Dave
  31. 2 points
    All good I see advantages to both but had to pick on you a little is all
  32. 2 points
    This is turning into a good old Canadian debate. We just need to apologize before stating our points. Haha. Sorry I think thru wire is better. But I have also had a fish break right through a thinner wire thru wire. So I see your point. Sorry.
  33. 2 points
    I use 1 1/2 - 2 inch stainless steel.092 eye screws either cast into resin lures or epoxied into wooden lures I have not had any failures doing this. Fish between 10-20lbs are commonly caught on my lures. The largest was 60lbs+ chinook. eye screws of the correct size installed properly can handle some big fish If you believe that a fish may break the lure body it self then yes I would definitely go through wire
  34. 2 points
    In my crankbait building, I've found it helpful to think of a crankbait's actions as wiggle, the X shaped movement of the lure's nose and tail as viewed from above, and wobble, the amount the bait moves/rolls from side to side as viewed from the front. The bigger the X, the wilder the bait's side to side action, and the bigger the wobble, the more water it displaces on the retrieve. I need to add ballast to all of my PVC trimboard lures to get them to swim right. I typically use a successful commercial crankbait as a model, floating it in my 5 gallon water bucket to see how it sits at rest. I add ballast to my lures to achieve that same "angle of attack", and then , once I've gotten a lure to duplicate the commercial lure's performance, experiment from there. I've found that adding my ballast at the belly hook hanger's location, and as low as possible, give my the widest wiggle (X ing) because both the nose and the tail are the lightest and easiest to move when they have no additional weight, other than the line tie/lip, and tail hook and hanger. It also produces the most stable lure, one that won't roll over no matter how fast I retrieve it. Splitting the ballast, and installing it in front of and behind the belly hanger, dampens the wiggle. The farther apart the weights are, the more they act to deaden the wiggle, because they become counterweights. I've found that the higher the ballast is in relation to a line from the line tie to the rear hook hanger, the more the lure wobbles. In my crankbaits, I still put the majority of my ballast weight at the belly hook hanger, but I've found that by moving up to a third of the ballast weight about that line tie/rear hanger line, I can get more wobble in an otherwise stable lure. I'm afraid you'll have to just try stuff to really learn how to ballast whatever lure you're making. Of course, if you're smart like Dave, you can figure it out as you design your lure on the computer. I've never been able to do that, so trial and error has been my method. Everything I know about lure building I've learned here on TU, from people like Bob P and Dave, who have shared with me, and from just trying stuff to see how it works. Good luck, and let us know how you progress.
  35. 2 points
    @alsworms Yes, that speed test is universal, and will work based on your location. Another one I use is https://fast.com/
  36. 2 points
    The hooks are a part of the ballast weight system, so yes, you may get away with no lead inside the body. It all depends on the size of the lure and the width of the body. If you are 3D printing then presumably your lure is designed on CAD. This gives you an advantage to get the lure balanced correctly before you even switch on the printer. You can model every piece of the hardware and assign materials to all the parts. You can calculate whether the lure sinks or floats and by how much. You can even calculate how the lure sits in the water. Dave
  37. 2 points
    I made a stir stick to mix up my Dead On gallon jugs. Chuck it in the drill and mix away. Beats shaking the guts out of it. I used a 12” long 1/4” wooden rod with a groove cut up the center about an 1 1/2”. I then inserted a piece of plastic milk jug cut just shy the opening width and drilled pilot holes through the wood and plastic. Then I applied glue and used finishing nails as holding pins. All that’s left is to trim the corners up, cut the nails off, grind them down flush and wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol to remove any debris.
  38. 2 points
    Eastman03, there’s an art and a specific technique to using epoxy and it differs according to the brand. Envirotex Lite, aka ETEX, is quite different from Devcon Two Ton. ETEX is a pre-thinned bar top - decoupage epoxy while Devcon is a glue. As for applying heat, that also falls into the “art” category. Warming ETEX before brushing may be ok, though I personally don’t see a need for it. Heating an epoxied lure is also ok or maybe not. If you heat a freshly epoxied lure enough it will expand the air in the wood, forcing it out into the finish. So if you want to heat the lure, do it before epoxying. Also, a lure turner running in a box gently warmed by an incandescent bulb might work fine and shorten the cure time considerably. You can also use an alcohol burner passed quickly over fresh epoxy to draw out any bubbles (breathing on the epoxy can do the same). For me, heat is another variable and the fewer variables there are, the better I like it. The best technique I know of for epoxy, or any finish, or for any crankbait build step: have some patience. Haste makes waste. Measure and mix epoxy well and it will cure hard in its on time without further help.
  39. 2 points
    Thanks for all the input! I've cut off the boot for this one. I'll tub test it as is and see what happens, and if I'm not happy with the action I'll add a lip and test again. There's 1/8oz of weight in the tail section, which may over-stabilize it and prevent it from having much action. Hopefully by Monday I'll have some progress on this! @mark poulson "wind sock" is exactly what I was thinking the problem might be. @Hillbilly voodoo I'd love to see the one's you tried, as there's got to be a way to make this work. @Vodkaman Thanks for the math! That was a very precise way to break this down, and while I'm not particularly mathematically inclined it definitely communicated the point. Thanks all! This thread has been really helpful so far, and I appreciate all the different approaches and perspectives!
  40. 1 point
    I have never felt glue was ever needed on the bass jigs I tie. 210 flat waxed thread, and 4 half hitch knots. Snip thread and leave about an inch. Never had a jig fall apart.
  41. 1 point
    Every now and then I see that there's a new topic in the cookbook sticky so I open it up to see what's new. It seems like a lot of folks are going in there asking how to make a color and that ends up with a lot of messages back and forth. I would suggest that if you need help with a color that isn't in the cookbook that you ask in the regular part of the soft plastic forum and once you get the color dialed in you post the recipe in the sticky cookbook thread. Just my opinion though
  42. 1 point
    There are a lot of guys that have forgotten more about making inlines than I know and some of those have already made a few suggestions in this thread. One thing that hasn’t been discussed and one of the elements or variables on an in-line is the type of blade used. I noticed Kevin has used quite a few Colorado blades. On an in-line, a Colorado doesn’t spin well. The French blade or Indiana blade is a much better choice for inlines with a clevis. As suggested, they need to be sized correctly. Please look at Toadfrogs first post with the pics of his inlines. Notice how the end of his French blades would come about to the end of the brass weight on the in-line. That’s sized correctly. Now, I’m not saying you can’t make an in-line with just wire and beads because you can. I’ve had success using an Indiana blade and no weight.
  43. 1 point
    If you are talking about bubbles in the silicon mold there is one thing that definitely helps. When pourIng your mold only cover your master with a thin layer of silicone and stop. You will be able to actually see the bubbles form an pop. This only takes a few minutes to pass then you will be able to continue pouring. it makes a big difference and I kick myself every time I rush and forget this step. When I do this with a master that was clear coated master I get an extremely smooth mold cavity. You will still have bubbles in the rest of the mold
  44. 1 point
    I've found that hitting my black sharpie with a hair dryer helps it to not run. With red and chartreuse sharpies, they will still run, unless I shoot a coat of Createx gloss clear over them. When I dip and hang a bait by the nose with red sharpie gills without the gloss, the red bleeds down a little, and makes a neat bleeding bait effect. This old photo shows some bleeding on the right hand bait. At the time I was using AC1315 concrete sealer, and evidently didn't heat set the red well enough, because it bled a little. I did other baits at that time with more pronounced bleeding, but I evidently didn't take any pics. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/5484-5-inch-gliderwalkers/
  45. 1 point
    So after all they messing around with different ideas I have settled on this design. This is my first fully finished surface paddler.
  46. 1 point
    Basstackle every time. I have one of the ukraine 4 ounce twin injectors with blending block that i'd sale cheap, but you'd have to put new o rings in it & probably make a notch to remove the ends like Musky Glenn did his.
  47. 1 point
    Hillbilly try looking for "industrial paint and plastics" they carry smooth-on and I have seen micro balloons at their Calgary store. And as an FYI my Niece go her laser cutter I will get to play with it on the weekend and see if I can finally cut a clean lure lip.
  48. 1 point
    Just a thought...If you suspect your band saw is not cutting perfectly straight, could you cut the lip slot, then flip the bait over and repeat the cut from the other side? If that evens it up, compared to baits cut once, then you're probably right about it being out of kilter. If there's no change, that probably isn't the problem.
  49. 1 point
    Every case of ballast weight is different and depends on the density of the crankbait material and how you want the bait to perform. A good place to start is to closely examine a commercial bait you want to copy and make yours similar in terms of total weight, line tie and hook hanger placement, lip size/shape and angle, etc. In my experience, most commercial wood baits are ballasted with belly hangers molded into lead ballast plugs, which simplifies construction. In the above plastic bait that Travis posted, the same principle is applied with the ballast in front of and behind the belly hanger. Once you get a good performing copy of a successful commercial bait, you can experiment with that design in later baits to get some interesting variations,
  50. 1 point
    Yes:-) I brush it on and put on a turner which initially was the reason I went with kbs. One less thing to have to have/make. now that I got off my lazy bones and made one;-) I haven’t look back. I won’t bash Kbs as it’s a good choice. I used it on my restored pickup truck frame and it’s awesome stuff. In my experience the epoxy holds up against hook rash and bass teeth better. One coat of epoxy vs three coats of kbs dipped. Here’s one I made last month and I’ve used it heavily last couple of weeks. Not much if any hook rash. I’m an OCD kind of person I want the finish to be perfect and stay that way as long as it can. Stupid?!? Yes!!! It’s the way I am.
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