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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    LOL! Paint patterns or schemes cannot be owned by any one person or company. I find it ironic that a custom painter is complaining about someone ripping off his paint scheme, when he is putting that scheme on knock-off lures ripped off from other manufacturers.
  2. 5 points
    The perfect topcoat is fish saliva..
  3. 4 points
    Hello, I don’t post near as much as I used to, but am still here every couple days. I saw the new thread about the JR Hopkins DVD and I started thinking about the past of TU. I wonder if we shouldn’t have a “Lost and Found” sticky for formerly active members? More to let us know they’re okay, and just not into building, or having a difficult time, or whatever. Similarly, perhaps we should have a “In Memoriam” sticky. I know we unfortunately have had multiple threads in the past about Members who have passed, but they’re hard to find if you don’t know to look. Maybe each could have a link to the thread (if there was one), a link to their posts (as a way of honoring their contribution to the hobby) and a comments section. Craig
  4. 4 points
    I cataloged all mine in a spreadsheet, printed out a list, had them closed on shelves with the number on the end of the wood handle showing so I could find it on my list, then looked for the number of handle. I had the shelves with numbers so I had location numbers on my list and still couldn't find what I was looking for when I needed a mold. so I put them on peg board .The pic of my molds takes up a lot of room but at least if can find what I am looking for. and while looking for a mold i'll see one that i forgot i had, so that is helpful.
  5. 3 points
    Let me see what we can do to make this happen.
  6. 3 points
    I have that mold & it shoots great. It's a great choice.
  7. 3 points
    No offence but painting is just that painting. I respect the talent with an airbrush but in the end it’s just decorating a lure that someone else made. There is only so many combinations and if you are matching natural feed things are even more limited Maybe I just don’t get it because my focus is on building and action more than painting. In the end if painting is what you base your business on and competition is hurting you it’s time to find something that makes you stand out from the others. It’s just how business goes Good luck
  8. 3 points
    The perfect top coat only exists where Rainbow farting Unicorns exist ..Nathan
  9. 3 points
    I think you will find, denting is a combo of gates and venting in hand molds. I have took my exact senco mold, and eliminated half of the venting and it dented to beat hell. I think this is the issue you will find with this mold is the venting is insufficient. Now we can argue about venting all day, But don't expect me to argue back, As I know what works for us..
  10. 3 points
    I made some rattles using brass tubing they sell in short lengths at Ace Hardware and other hardware stores. It is very thin wall and helps reduce the added weight of the rattle and still have the metal chamber. I learned it here or on another lure tutorial site. Cut the tubing with a hack saw the length you want the rattle chamber but do not cut all the way through. Now cut the tubing off about one tubing diameter past your first two cuts. Now you have one length of tubing with two cuts that are not quite all the way through. Cut the two end pieces length wise so that you can bend the tubing open and flatten the two end pieces with a hammer or pliers. Fold the flattened end piece over the end of your rattle chamber, put your rattles in, bend the other flattened end and you have your rattle chamber. Hope that makes sense.
  11. 3 points
    Custom-built Metal Cabinet. Stores about 160 Do-it Molds.I is HEAVY and I can pad-lock it. I took this pic back in January. I am going to have to make another one before the end of the year.
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    And we both know that in reality, the fish don't care near as much as we do... LOL
  15. 2 points
    I’ve had my best success with fresh made baits. If they are baits that have been cured before painting )2-3 weeks I have found that I have to clean the baits with denatured alcohol before I painted them or the baits would do just that.
  16. 2 points
    Smooth on at DICK BLICKS add some paint and free shipping. Wayne
  17. 2 points
    Always used Smooth on products, Mold Max 30. Price....cheaper than buying baits. If I buy the trial size 2.8 kit and make only 5 molds from it. So I have 6 bucks in each mold. I can easily go drop 10 plus on a crank so price per silicone mold already cheaper. I make like 3 cranks and pretty much paid for the entire 2 lb kit. I can cast a lot of cranks in that mold before it goes bad. If selling then the cost is just passed onto the consumer (pennies per crank in reality). Over the years this topic comes up off and on and I think the take home message is no real big cheaper solution out there. Best price ends up buying in bulk. If Hobby Lobby close enough can go with the high strength 3 and use the 40% coupon if small quantities are what you use.
  18. 2 points
    I'm usually a topwater freak and threw spooks, Cavitrons and ploppers. 4.5" - 5" paddletails are the most versatile bait I've found so far. Work them like a jig, throw them on algae mattes (better than frogs), slow roll or as wake baits. Give bass the time to eat them then hook set! For jigging a 6/0 x 1/8th oz swimbait hook on 7'6" Rainshadow MH w/telescopic handle and Lew's LFS #30 braid combo, for froggin' a 6/0 unweighted swimbait hook on 7'6" Shimano Sellus MH flippin stick and Lew's Super Duty #40 thin braid, slow rollin' or topwater VMC Drop Dead 5/0 3/32oz just about any 7' MH with your favorite reel and #20 braid. . Had some paddletails in colors I didn't think I would ever use. Changed them into colors I would use in the (usually stained) lakes and ponds of Iowa. They work! Used several colors of sharpies with gloves on. Blended colors by working with my fingers. Set colors by scrubbing in Dawn and warm water then set aside to dry. The colors used to be Clear Blue, Rainbow, Arkansas Shiner and Cooter Brown. Which one do you like? I used #18 to catch my PB a little over two weeks ago at a community pond that is surrounded by 4' grass and wild parsnip. It looks as if it doesn't get fished much for bass Got my boot stuck in mud while bringing it in. Strained my hamstring trying to pull the boot out. set my rod down while struggling with boot, fish flopped around and snapped off 10" of my flippin' rod. Crap! What I go through while hunting for big bass. Best I could tell it measured about 22" to 22 1/2" and still full of eggs. Limped back to my van hurting but happy.
  19. 2 points
    Yep, I bought some nail polish remover in a supermarket once, only to find out later that it had almond oil in it. That would have caused no end of problems if I hadn't noticed before I used it.
  20. 2 points
    Then quit. Or stop trying to sell your stuff on a public forum. While I agree it is B.S. to ape someone elses paint jobs, it is an inevitable fact of life when you post on a public forum with millions of users. I am a member of several groups on Farcebook and honestly, from what I have seen, the cream rises to the top as far a what sells and for how much on the auction pages. If people are truly copying your patterns and they are truly unique, you are free to use the "implied copyright" part of the law and hire a lawyer to send out cease and desit letters to everyone. Personally, if I notice someone posting a bait that was obviously inspired by my pattern, I take as a compliment and move on. The so-called "custom tackle" business has never been much of one, and the number of folks actually making a living at it is small, very small. So my advice is, paint for the joy of it, sell some if you can, and don't be all butt hurt. After all, I am sure that you, like everyone, started of copying someone else's work until you gained the skills and confidence necessary to become creative and produce your own.
  21. 2 points
    That is incorrect. An original paint pattern is just like a drawing, painting or photograph and carries an implied copyright. The problem lies in enforcement of it. Unless your paint scheme is truly unique and a large company like Strike King or Rapala is the one copying, enforcing you rights to the pattern you produced would not be economically feasible.
  22. 2 points
    I think it is a great Idea..I’ll look into it..Nathan
  23. 2 points
    But do you have lures you can’t even duplicate yourself lol I also don’t worry because I know people maybe able to create lures that look a like easily but it’s going to take someone with brains to re create the action
  24. 2 points
    I don’t have as much experience with them as some on here, but most commonly Polytranspar and Lifetone are used I believe. McKensie Taxidermy carries them all. Be aware that they come in both lacquer and water-based versions.
  25. 2 points
    I think there is room for everything. The idea of “custom” varies by individual, and there’s nothing intrinsically wrong with that. I think the difficulty comes when it marketed a a “custom bait” rather than a “custom painted” bait. I do think painters that copy should list the color as the color listed. For example, chartreuse with purple back should be “table rock shad” or “Hughsey TR Shad, or similar, not some random made up name. I think that would show a bit of respect or tip of the hat to the originator, even if you don’t know who it was). I don’t think there’s anything wrong with having a bait painted in a color not normally offered in that bait, like asking someone to paint a “Missouri Craw” on a Fat Rap. If you do it better, or cheaper than others, more power to you. If a fisherman has a belief that a custom paint job will catch him more fish, then it will. He’ll be expecting to get bit, pay better attention, use it more, etc. I personally believe that color can be important, but according to my research, fine detail doesn’t matter to most fish like bass on a moving bait, but depending on water clarity and color, light, depth and what the fish are keyed in on, color can matter. The exception would be slow moving baits like jerkbaits, suspending baits, etc. then they can get a longer look. To my mind, order of importance is depth>action>size>color. But I could well be wrong. My wife certainly tells me I am often enough, lol. out of curiosity Bassmaster, what kind of lure did you paint?
  26. 2 points
    My opinions on painting plastic lure blanks are well documented. I was even reprimanded by the TU management for upsetting paying advertisers. Reprimand is a bit strong, more of a 'please stop it' Strangely enough, people who attempt to copy famous, successful lures do not bother me in the slightest. I know that there is a lot more to copying a lure than shape alone. Most will fail but they will learn something about lures on the journey. In fact, I would recommend trying to copy a favourite lure in the learning process as many experienced builders also suggest. Those who can copy a commercial successfully have all the skills to produce their own masterpieces. I often wonder why they bother, but I guess it is a challenge. I was even considering writing a thread dedicated to reverse engineering a lure without destructive examination even though I have never done it before. I never view the gallery. I am not really interested in the current trends. I do not want my design ideas to be affected by what others are doing. Basically, body shape is a covering over the internal structure although it does have some functionality. Because I am not commercially competing I see no reason for secrets. I even received a couple of angry PMs for revealing design secrets that they had been cashing in on for years. However they need not worry, many read the articles but very few try the ideas out. The few that do are only producing lures for personal use. I probably got a bit off subject with this post, but there you go, I am rambling Dave
  27. 2 points
    Bassmaster - Part of this is down to the beauty of the internet. Anyone can learn a skill far quicker and efficiently than they ever could 20 years ago with hundreds of videos available on any subject. This makes many people who had to learn the hard way bitter on the whole subject. I came across this attitude when I first joined TU, I was told to put the work in. I think quick and efficient learning is a very good thing. The question that you should be asking is 'what is the definition of a custom lure'. For most people, custom means slapping a coat of paint on a cheap Chinese imported blank and selling it on Ebay. My definition of a custom lure; to design and build a lure for a single customer with a specific set of requirements, size, action, depth, shape and paint job. A design that is not or is no longer available commercially. Custom could well be just the paint job, but the customer would send you the lure and request a certain pattern and set of colours. If you obtain 500 blanks, paint them with a few of your own best patterns and put them up on Ebay, these are simply lures for sale, and definitely NOT custom lures for sale. I too am disappointed about the whole 'custom' thing. You, because now everyone can encroach on your 'custom' business. Me, because the whole art of lure design and building has been devalued to the point of neglect. Just like calligraphy, lure design is a dying art. I actually own an Iwata but have never opened the box, it has never seen a drop of paint. All my lures are painted white, purely for visibility, to allow me to examine the movement. If I ever bring a lure to market, which might happen soon, it will be painted black. As a compromise, I might make blanks available, probably not on second thoughts. I don't believe in paint as a fish attraction, I believe it is all about movement. Dave
  28. 2 points
    I used to know where that was, but somebody took my trail markers down.
  29. 2 points
    Ya what Mcluvin175 said, he drops his Mcchicken all the time and it leaves a oily spot...
  30. 2 points
    After you get the big stuff out, spray the inside with wd-40 and wipe them out with a paper towel or rag.
  31. 2 points
    Mines the same exact way, but i know where every single thing is too.
  32. 2 points
    The only things i'm seeing for myself that doesn't exactly suit me with the baitplastics plastisol is that it seems stretchier & softer in the same medium grade than the other 2 i've used. I think medium hard or even hard would cure that problem. I also think it is tackier when i first demold than the other 2 by far. It does cure good & clear for transparent colors & also lets the glitter show pretty easily for colors that aren't extremely transparent/ It's like anything else in that it has it's goods & bads. I like it, but am not yet completely satisfied with it so i don't know which brand i'll go with when i use it up. I may be to picky i don't know, but i do like lureworks an awful lot too.
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    Don't know how it holds up, but it's perfectly clear. Invisible you might say.
  35. 2 points
    Update: Made 6 sets last night injection at 290-300 and removing the worms after 3 minutes (instead of my usual 10) I didn't have one dent in my first 4 sets and only 1 out of 4 had one on my last 2 sets which I believe was due to the mold getting warm and me not waiting long enough to take them out....I'm going to go ahead and say my case and say I was injecting too hot and waiting to long to remove from the mold. Thanks for all you insight everybody.
  36. 2 points
    I use twisted wire hangars also. (Most of the time) With twisted wire hangars there is probably 3 or more times more contact for the epoxy and wood. Most of the time I also either drill my hangar or line tie holes all the way through. If it is too far, say with a tail hook, then I drill the hole deep enough for the hangar, then I drill a vent hole in from the top of the bait. Holding the bait, tail up, I start 30 min epoxy in the hangar hole, then I warm the epoxy with my heat gun and keep adding epoxy until it comes out the vent hole. It doesn't take too long because there is no air lock like there is with a dead end hole.
  37. 2 points
    The gate doesn’t look too restrictive. It’s almost as big as the worm judging from the pics. Not like some where the gate necks down to less than 50% of the worm diameter.
  38. 2 points
    check out angling a.i. They have a nice tube mold.
  39. 2 points
    Since bass hunt a lot by detecting vibrations with their lateral line, maybe the higher frequency rattles are felt more than heard, and that's why they still work.
  40. 2 points
    Add glitter first then add black slowly til it is just dark enough not to be smoke. Thin parts may still be smoke but you have to draw the line somewhere.
  41. 1 point
    A chinese Pie machine, Interesting.... Nothing like a zorn machine, except the advertised price.
  42. 1 point
    I designed and built a hinged lip lure for longer casting. It was a really fiddly build on top of a lot of time consuming carving. The design worked and casting distance increased significantly. I decided to really test it out with a monster effort cast. The reel bail-arm flipped shut mid-cast. The lure flew about 150yds, it was a thing of beauty. Moral - Always tie a new knot. Dave
  43. 1 point
    You have to use Archimedes to do this. It sounds difficult and highly technical, but it is really very easy. Actually easier than measuring the length breadth and width of a block of wood. The method is explained in the post Archimedes Dunk Test. Dave
  44. 1 point
    What do you mean by cad files? To make a mold of the jig? Are you looking for 3D step files to machine a Arky jig? You are going to need to get a hook in there somehow, so I'm thinking 2 piece. Lot of unanswered questions. Please elaborate more so I can help better.
  45. 1 point
    Warning! My whole jar went bad when I let it sit too long, because I thought it was empty.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Maybe I'm not looking at the right color, but I don't see red. I see black, chartreuse, and purple.
  48. 1 point
    I can’t be much help except to say I have some experience with peg boarding molds. I thought it would be a pretty good method of storage too. So I put up the pegboard, bought the 12 inch long pegs for it thinking I could put a bunch of molds on one hook. I did that only to find out more than about two to a hook will eventually sag and pull that pegboard out of shape because of the excessive weight. Then they will slide down and fall off the pegs.
  49. 1 point
    Or you could be like me. Add hardener, then find out it's too hard, then add softener, then too soft, repeat......
  50. 1 point
    If something is not usable why keep trying to use it to me that's a waste of time and money. I recently had that issue and I posted my problem on this site, I contacted the manufacturer and they responded immediately to my concerns and replaced what I had purchased at no extra cost.
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