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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I have been playing with a stencil project for the baits that I make and for repaint purposes. first test prints so I am getting close, gotta thin the shell down and make the alignment tabs a bit thicker. What baits are you wanting to make stencils for?? K/O baits or for your own baits?
  2. 3 points
    also do not over heat
  3. 3 points
    Clear Nail polish. Hard As Nails
  4. 3 points
    Dave is an awesome man, living nearby I was blessed to be able to run to his shop and pick up small amounts of material when needed. I enjoyed great conversations and learned alot about his start and place in the business. He always made me feel welcomed and helped me with many thoughts or ideas. His illness did start to get the best of him and two major floods did not help. I still have many of his supplies and will regret not being able to go visit him to get more. Not for the supplies really but the visit which meant so much more.
  5. 2 points
    I have started receiving complaints from TU members about business owners, tackle supply retailers, lure parts companies and others spending time here in the forums with a single motive; selling TU members their goods or services. This message serves as notice to everyone that this will STOP here and now! TU is not a venue for ANYONE to spend time hanging out here, trying to sell their products to people. It is a place where people come to learn from other lure makers. Any company who has people here and is actively soliciting TU members, be forewarned that your accounts are in danger of being permanently banned! I don't take this lightly and you shouldn't either! So if you happen to be one of those people who has been becoming more active here for the sole purpose of trying to reel in new customers, put an end to it now. If you want to share your knowledge with others without mentioning your company and without offering to "help" them with their problem by offering to sell them something, then feel free to continue to to participate here. I will be keeping a close eye on this and TU members will also be watching and if they see anything going on that is outside of these guidelines, it will be passed along to me. Once again, accounts of guilty parties will be permanently banned if this continues after today!
  6. 2 points
    Stick to the USA mold makers, they are very aware of their designs and are good about making sure they don't violate any patents (if they do they are on the hook just as much as you are for making the baits) whereas the offshore mold guys don't care. USA patents don't apply to them and they just pass the buck on to the buyer.
  7. 2 points
    Yes, of course. For instance in Italy you can ask to raiteri@libero.it, in France there are https://breizhbaits.com/fr/ and https://www.pawispeche.com/index.cfm, in Germany you have https://www.bleigussformen-shop.de/Gummifische-giessen, in UK there is https://softplastics.co.uk/products_new.php, from Belgium https://www.brightbaits.com/index.php?route=common/home (really famous for his colorants and airbrushing colors) and finally https://www.lureparts.nl/nl/ in Nederlands, perhaps the first one in Europe who treated soft plastic ... and there are others more. Bye. Cami
  8. 2 points
    I do not own any that large but basstackle.com has several 4" and 5" models. strike kings website states the lobster is 4.5". Here is a 4"er that always caught my eye but I never pulled the trigger on it. The price is right at only $40 for a single cavity and $70 for double. They have a video showing its action as well. basstackle makes good quality molds. http://www.basstackle.com/product_p/705-1-1.htm
  9. 2 points
    X3 and also make sure you mix the colorant really well before adding to plastic. Many of the flo colors separate badly.
  10. 2 points
    I have found that I have better success with the fluorescent colors when I add them prior to heating the plastic.
  11. 2 points
    Sounds like too much colorant to me. I'd do another batch and only add a few drops at a time to see how it looks.
  12. 2 points
    Riverman has it right. DO NOT use acetone. It will attack the chains in the epoxy and weaken. It will also lift the paint off your lure. It's a polar solvent. NO Isopropyl alcohol either. Yeeks. Really bad. Denatured Alcohol in drops. It will not react is the biggest reason why. The bubbles are from mixing. Use a plastic stir stick, not wood also. There are many tricks to doing epoxy finishes on lures. Too many. https://www.google.com/search?q=isopropyl+alcohol+to+thin+epoxy&oq=isopropyl+alcohol+to+thin+epoxy&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.13327j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 GOOD read... https://epoxyworks.com/index.php/thinning-west-system-epoxy/
  13. 2 points
    And there are all kinds of people willing to see their tax dollars go to help China compete against US, I'm sure China appreciates your help. Then again maybe you didn't realize your tax dollars were helping China, well guess that's where message boards and the interblab come into play. Your example of a guy with a lathe is a good example, but of course has nothing to do with what I've been talking about concerning China competing fairly with US businesses. Not a lot of little old Chinese guys sitting in their basement with a lathe trying to compete with guys here in the US. You complained about China, yet it seems you're unwilling to look at the problem. China isn't the problem, our Federal government giving them an unfair advantage is the problem. But hey it's only US businesses that are affected, you know those guys that don't have a lathe in the basement knocking out one or two lures a day in their spare time. Have a good day.
  14. 2 points
    If there is one thing I've learned about message boards and the interblab. ...there is always someone who knows more than you. Or thinks they do. Good luck with your purchase. When your kids and grandkids can't find a job anymore you can sit and wonder why. Shipping is peanuts. If all you can compete on is price then I suggest you look for something else to do. I see plenty of guys with a lathe, drill press and a band saw jump into the wood lure market and sell $30 lures every day. Make a good product at a fair price and do it legit and people will beat your door down. Peace n hair grease. I'm out.
  15. 2 points
    You know I hadn't even thought of suggesting stainless TIG wire, and I have several tubes of it. I use it primarily for pull pins in lead casting molds.
  16. 2 points
    I had trouble in Canada here finding a store that would carry it, I ordered some .051" safety lock wire from Malin. Expensive (had to ship it), and it was to soft for my liking (should have got hard drawn instead of soft, but it would work just fine for most lures). I just came across Stainless Steel Tig welding rod! Cheap, straight as an arrow. Lots of different sizes and strong. I bought some .062 for my big lures. If you are making smaller lures, there are all sorts of sizes.
  17. 2 points
    The color will not be the same when you use the floating media. They are white. Just a warning.
  18. 2 points
    I use regular rustoleum primer for base coating. I dip batches of 100-200 at a time usually. Then I just paint with various water based acrylics and clear coat. Pretty much just like a small crankbait. Some clears you can mix the glitter in, others you can't. Since I use the same clear for all of my baits, I don't add glitter to it. If I want glitter on something I will put down a layer of clear nail polish and sprinkle the glitter in where I want it. The polish holds it on well, then clear coat as normal.
  19. 2 points
    Lol. I have the exact same routine.
  20. 2 points
    SHOW ME THE MILLION FIRST Small unmarked bills preferred. Everyone wants to be like Salty. I'll sell you my business for 1/2 of that. You too can then learn how to lose a half million bucks in the fishing industry. Further comments redacted because Curt would delete.
  21. 2 points
    There are tricks depending on if you prefer to work with surfaces or solid models. I tend to work with solid models, but sometimes the trick is to create a surface and use one of a number of methods to convert into a solid model either in itself or to be merge with another solid model. On the original LBS Shad I cut the scale pattern by creating an array of tiny arcs, and then mapping the lines to the surface for engraving. On another I literally sliced a scale pattern out of a solid model, and offset the resulting segments a few thousandths to create a 3D scale pattern. I have not yet found a way that isn't painstaking and tedious. Often I cut a gill plate, by making copy of the solid body model, slicing it, offsetting it, changing the angle, and deleting the duplicate tail. Sometimes it looks good. Other times it looks like a hack job and has the be redone 40 times to find a good look. I've spun a swimbait or other minnow model around so many times checking for things that will look stupid that the minnow puked all over my screen.
  22. 2 points
    My professional experience was aircraft and automotive CAD design. Naturally, I expected lure design to be easy after my extensive design experience. Boy was I wrong. Lure design on CAD is far more difficult. You can design something simple, especially if you let the CAD system's limitations define your design. BUT, to get exactly what YOU want is a lot more involved than I anticipated. And, that is just designing a simple shape, not including mouth, gills and fins, god forbid scales (which I have thought about but not tackled as yet)! Dave
  23. 2 points
    Same style we use. It works great.
  24. 2 points
    Z... Please let David know I think of him often and that he and his family are in my thoughts and prayers.
  25. 2 points
    I have posted this here because only searching minds would find it. Everyone who ever built his/her own lure, strives to come up with something original, game changing, name in lights, millionaire. There is nothing wrong with dreams, and they are actually possible. You do not need a doctorate or a PHd to have an original game changing idea. I am a perfect example; I have only a humble HND qualification in aeronautical engineering, but I figured out one of the massive enigmas; what the function of fish scales was. Unfortunately, I was not the first to make this discovery, but I did make it independently. I also have other ideas not fishing related that are not proven as yet. My point is that you do not have to be scientifically qualified to make life changing discoveries. As members of the relatively uneducated masses, we have the same level of imagination as the geniuses of this world. Without the constraints of conformity, we have no rules to adhere to. Being a scientist or an expert is a distinct disadvantage. All we have to do is recognize a problem, a deficiency, an improvement, or in our case, a different lure action that will catch fish. One of my biggest bug-bears is people who tell us that there is nothing new, it has all been done before, and you are re-inventing the wheel. This is just not true. I am continually amazed at what past lure designers have come up with, but only now, in this technological age, are we starting to understand how things work. Fluid dynamics is a BIG statement, the study of which requires a mathematical mind of a genius. BUT, the understanding of the basic principles only requires the viewing of a few YouTube videos, no math required. Search for ‘vortex’, ‘vortex street’, ‘Kármán vortex street’, view the videos and you will already have the knowledge required to invent your new lure. Every lure’s action can be explained by vortex technology. Understand vortex technology and you are on your way. ‘Trial and error’ has always been the way with fishing lure design, but it does not have to be that way. The chances of hitting on a solution with trial and error are infinitely small compared with having the simple knowledge of vortex technology. Vortices are the driving force behind ALL fishing lures. Figure out the basics (not difficult) and then apply the knowledge to what you want to achieve (or talk to me). Dave