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I do want to point out that I have some of those Bomber flat paints, and they are not that durable either. LOL OK, they are a flat lacquer, and better the a water based paint, but ........ just saying......... need to repaint a couple of the production lures now. LOL

Createx definitely won't hold up to being fished without a protective clear coat. Many of the older lures were painted with lacquer paints without a clear coat. I've never used lacquer paints myself, but have read several threads about it being done this way. Try doing a search for lacquer paints and maybe you'll find some of the threads I was referring to. good luck, Ben

Forget all of this water based paint. If I were you I would try shooting finger nail polish. Most of them are nothing but lacquer paint. Lacquers STICK! You can tell by reading the name or ingredients. The rest of them are urethanes. Stay away from anything with glitter in it. Unless the glitter is MICRO size. I like to use a #3 tip in my Paasche VL with glitters. A lot of times glitter can clog a tip. My Iwata doesn't like glitters. Shoot it straight on the blade with no prep. Then get some Sally Hansens Tough As Nails and clearcoat it when you are done. That stuff is straight clear lacquer. It will yellow, but it will take more than three years for it to happen. You will probably loose the spinnerbait by then. You can shoot the tough as nails through the airbrush. Thin everything at 3:1 for starters with acetone or lacquer thinner and shoot it between 25 and 45 PSI. You will have to play with whatever brand you buy to get it down. But the suggestions that I gave are a good place to start. With lacquer you could probably skip the clear coat. But clearcoats really brighten up the colors on the blade. Clean everything up with Acetone. Hope this helps. If you have any questions just ask. Skeeter

Use these syringes, and you'll always be correct: http://www.flexcoat.com/products/supplies-accessories/color-coded-syringes/ Drill a tight fitting hole in the top of each component bottle, and push the syringes in their component bottles so they fit snuggly. The nozzles are tapered, so you can find a bit that makes a tight fit about half way into the cap. To fill, hold the syringe tight to the cap and turn the bottle upside down. Now fill the syringe with as much as you need, flip the bottle back over to upright, and remove the syringe and squeeze the component into your mixing container. Since the syringe only touches one component or the other, it never needs to be cleaned, and you can leave them in the bottle tops when not in use.

I have been building and selling lures for a decade or so. I have had lures made in China, Mexico, and currently owned injection molds for multiple baits made here in the USA. You can make money at it but it's not easy. Most that jump in are gone within a couple years and many others make just enough to pay for materials and keep going. Lots of things make it difficult, one is offshore competitors, the Chinese copy everything and sell it for almost nothing. The other thing is sites like this one, when I started I spent literally weeks and hundreds of tests trying to figure out how to weight gliders, now you can get this same info online in five minutes. Videos on YouTube show you how to cut baits, weight baits, paint, clear, etc., the end result? Another "new lure company" every week. This information literally used to take years to figure out. The other thing is there are some very good big lure companies that make it hard to compete, they have their own engineers, their own in-house mold manufacturing, 3D scanners, 3D printers, paint rooms, staff, etc. Unless you have several million for start up its tough. However, having said all that, it is fun and after all these years I still enjoy it. It can be toxic with all the paints, clears, lead, wood dust, plastics, so one must be carful. I'm not saying it can't be done but it is extremely difficult...... to quote ACDC, it's a long way to the top if you want to rock and roll" Jed Edited by RiverMan, Today, 06:14 PM.

Here's my Barfish/ Yellow Bass. I use this basic color for myself. White base coat Transparent yellow back and sides down ~3/4 of the way down Pearl silver light covering, all over especially over the belly. gold on back and upper sides lay out several layers of masking tape that slightly overlap. use a sharpie to mark out out the horizontal lines. Cut out the lines. place the newly cut tape stencil over the side of the lure and spray over with black. Remove stencil and repeat on the other side. Spray the back lightly with black, just to darken it up a bit Sign the plug. Seal. Hope this helps. --George