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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/14/2014 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Yep, as you can see, there are lots of options that work. Which you choose depends on how you want to process your topcoat/undercoat, how patient you are in letting topcoats harden, and how much you want to spend. For wood baits, I still like Devcon Two Ton epoxy after a dozen years of building lures. It's tough, hardens over night to a nice level, thick, beautiful finish. You have to brush epoxies on and it's recommended that you use a lure turner afterwards to keep the epoxy from sagging or dripping until it begins to harden. You can use Devcon both as an undercoating/primer and a topcoat. For plastic baits that don't require undercoating like wood, you just paint and topcoat so a thinner product like AC1310 (a solvent based concrete sealer) works well. My favorite is Dick Nite S81 moisture cured urethane but if you choose it, be sure to read up on all the handling and coating threads here on TU before choosing it. There is no cheap, easy to use, works-every-time, quick topcoat with optimum beauty and performance so you have to choose what to use, then learn its ins and outs, and maybe experiment with other coatings before you settle on the ideal product for your baits and the way you want to build them.
  2. 1 point
    Painted with createx, nice hard shell with d2t. ready to catch fish in the spring.
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    I'll give you some tips, I, like Cadman, use Worth blades exclusively but if you are buying from Barlows or Lure Parts Online be sure to ask which blades they use, I got an Order from Lure Parts Online and found that they were selling Lakeland blades and while they are good too, they don't match up in size to Worth. An example would be a size 4.5 in a Lakeland is a size 5 in a Worth so if you buy from Barlows or Lure Parts or any of those places, stick with them as each will carry a different manufacturer.
  5. 1 point
    Not to mention powder paint is next to bullet proof.
  6. 1 point
    I know everyone has an opinion, but I don't know how much easier it could be than using powder paint. I do beleive many people don't go to the step of heating the paint after dipping their bait, and it won't stay on very well without doing it. It is soo much easier, than what was offered years ago.
  7. 1 point
    Wrinkling is caused by either a solvent reacting with an underlying paint, or because the film strength of the top coat is so strong it pulls on the weaker underlying paint so hard it actually pulls it apart, like with crackle finishes. Air brush paint that is not properly dried is still weak. That goes for thick coats that never truly get heat set. Properly dried acrylic paint won't be affected by AC1315, in my experience. The same goes for other urethane coatings, nail polishes, and epoxy finishes. I've dipped all of them now, and had no wrinkling. I even rushed my paint job on a lure, going as fast as I could without skipping a step, just to see how it would be affected. Did I mention I'm not a very patient person? Hahaha Once I decide to paint a bait, I want it done as quickly as possible. For me, a well painted lure is a tool for me to catch fish, not a work of art. You can see that in my paint jobs. I dried each thin coat very well, though, because I was trying to eliminate any weaknesses that might give me a false reading. I have painted and dipped several plastic knockoff baits now, and there were no problems. I dip cleaned the baits in acetone first, shot on Wildlife, Wicked, and Createx colors, and then dipped them once in the AC1315. I hung them outside to drip back into the open AC1315 container, and then moved them into my garage, once they stopped dripping, to dry. I hit them with a hair dryer once they had lost the wet look. From start to finish, the process took two hours, with cleaning the air brush between colors and at the end, and the hour it took for the top coat to become dry/hard enough to put the hooks on. I fished them two days after they were finished, and one coat held up to grass, rocks, and some stripers. This is not the magic top coat, but it is a good one.
  8. 1 point
    Well only two I have used that I have found doesn't settle out are Bears Calhouns and MF plastic. But still you should mix with a drill and stirrer if your using 5 or 2.5 gal containers.
  9. 1 point
    I think you take submissions for a certain length of time but no voting until submission ends, then have a voting period.
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