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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/14/2015 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 2 points
    Acetone will melt the plastic Crab, but that isn't always a bad thing. A quick dip (in and out) in fresh acetone will clean any oils from the bait and will also smooth out sanding marks for a perfectly smooth bait. I've had trouble using this process when wanting to paint a "ghost" pattern as it can leave the plastic a little cloudy, but it works great for opaque paint jobs. As far as removing paint there have been discussions on everything from soaking them in brake fluid to using one of the table top sand blasting units. You might try doing a search for some of these threads since trying to describe all of them in one reply would take half a day to type. Most of the time I just use sandpaper and a little elbow grease, but I only do a few baits at a time and even then not many of them are repaints. hope this helps, Ben
  3. 2 points
    I've foiled a lot of wide-body square-bills, and also a lot of flat-body round-bills. On all of them, I've used the least expensive kitchen foil I can find. I want a foil that is both very thin - the cheaper foil is usually thinner than the name brand foil - and I want a foil that is VERY shiny. Sometimes the less expensive foil lacks the "shine" I want. If so, I try another brand. To cut the foil, I pull a suitable length from the roll, and cut a strip about 2 1/2 inches wide. Then, I fold the strip lengthwise, so I end up with a doubled strip that is about 1 1/4" wide (this applies to a bait that is about 1" tall). I then cut the strip into lengths that are a little longer than what I need for each bait to be foiled. I usually build baits a dozen at a time - sometimes more, and sometimes less, but usually 12. I trace my foil pattern onto one of the foil pieces and place that on top of a stack of 5 more of the doubled foil pieces. Then, using scissors I cut out 6 doubled foils. Since they're folded, I have one shiny left side and one shiny right side. If I'm foiling 12 baits I repeat the previous few steps so I end up with a total of 24 pieces of foil. Trying to cut more than 6 sets at a time usually results in the foil skewing away from the scissor edge, or the foil tearing. Now, it's time to apply the foil to the bait. My balsa baits have been sealed with D2T prior to foiling. For adhesive, I use Liquid Nails Projects. The one I use comes in a squeeze tube, not a cartridge (available from Lowes). First, using my finger, I apply an even coat of the adhesive to one side of the bait and hang the bait by the line tie. I apply the adhesive to only one side of all of the baits I want to foil, up to about 12 at a time. I then start applying the foil to the one side of each bait that has adhesive. The adhesive will not harden and will remain soft for quite a while. This is important because you want to be able to emboss the scale pattern into the foil. That's why I use this particular adhesive. It provides a soft surface for whatever knurling tool you choose to use. Like other members, I also use the handle of ratchet. I cut the handle off of a cheap ratchet that I found lying in the street. It turned out to be a Pittsburgh brand, which is sold at Harbor Freight. It is a really great knurling tool with sharp edges to the knurl. You really can't get a great looking scale pattern with a rounded-edge knurl. Anyway, the Liquid Nails Projects adhesive is water-soluble until it fully cures. I apply the foil with my finger and then use a wooden dowel, about 1/4 inch in diameter, to burnish the edges of the foil. Any adhesive that squeezes out from the edges of the foil can be removed with a slightly damp cloth. Once I get one side of each bait foiled I start over with the other side and apply the adhesive, then the foil. It is important to make sure you don't have excess adhesive on the shiny foil. The size of the foil is determined by the paint pattern. If you have a very thin paint stripe on top or bottom, you need a taller foil. A wider paint pattern means you can use a shorter foil. A taller foil means that you simply have to take more time burnishing the edges. Get as many of the wrinkles as flat as possible. Aluminum foil is soft and will thin out with the burnishing, leaving a fairly smooth edge. Now, it's time to emboss the scale pattern. Simply roll the handle onto the foil. The soft adhesive will allow the pattern to be easily transferred to the foil. You really don't want to deform a balsa bait during this step. And, by using this adhesive, you can also more easily foil a plastic bait. If you've ever tried to foil a plastic bait, you quickly learn that it is very difficult to get the scale pattern to be embossed into the foil. Same for a balsa bait that has been sealed with with epoxy or CA. The trick is the burnishing along the edges of the foil. Just about anything with a round edge will work. I just happen to prefer the 1/4" wooden dowel. I actually tapered the end of the dowel I use. It has a softly-rounded tip. As long as you don't leave a really "proud" ridge of foil, the later coats of epoxy and paint will hide the edges. After embossing, check for adhesive that might have squeezed out from under the foil. Wipe it away with your damp cloth. After foiling I apply a coat of D2T epoxy, before painting. You need to apply this coat thick enough to fill in the "scales" in the foil, especially if you are painting over the foil with maybe a translucent color. Then, you don't have to worry about the paint filling in the scales. If you are not painting over the foil you'll have a nice start to a very smooth finish. Tying to emboss the foil before applying it to the bait is a losing battle. If you're doing that because you can't emboss the scale pattern into the foil after you've applied the foil, you need to use a softer adhesive and emboss the foil on the bait. If you have questions you can PM me. I can also explain how you can build an embossing tool using a small section of the knurled ratchet handle.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Redneck engineered soda blaster
  6. 1 point
    Unless it's a suspending bait, I don't try to strip all the paint off - I just rough it up with 400 grit sandpaper, wash the bait with soap and water, then repaint. If you get acetone on the lip, it will cloud it permanently. I don't know of any solvent that will quickly remove the paint without also damaging the plastic underneath - including acetone. I have removed paint with a blow torch and it works quickly. But you need a fine touch to avoid setting the lure on fire, causing the lure to blow up, or melting/discoloring the lip. On a suspending bait, I just sandpaper off the paint. It takes time and destroys any 3D details but it's the safest way unless you have a media blasting booth.
  7. 1 point
    crab05. this depends upon what the baits made of. wood.plastic..metal ?
  8. 1 point
    He is using CAB paints. Full name of the brand is Cab coatings. It is a finish brand and it's NOT water based paints. I am using mostly Createx and Com art paints and I am also holding the lures in my hand (with gloves) while I paint them . Sometimes it gets fucked up but mostly it doesn't.
  9. 1 point
    That is the wonder of this site. You get to research what you are about to do and know almost all of the problems before you ever start. In other words this site allows you to figure out the problems before you ever actually have to have them.
  10. 1 point
    Make yourself a test bait, or use an older jointed lure, and try it on that. I always do a dry run and a test run, if possible, before I try something new.
  11. 1 point
    Yes it is. Great mold, definitely a great mold for the money.
  12. 1 point
    Too hot. Cut it down a little bit. I shoot mine 320-330.
  13. 1 point
    JSC, That has been my experience here in CA, too. I've interacted with our DFG/DFW now for almost ten years, and everyone of those folks I've met care about our fisheries. They are all wildlife biologists. In fact, most have been fishermen and hunters. The politicians, who pander to special interest groups for money, are the ones who talk out of their a$$'s, and propose all this idiot regulation. We have the worst deer management plan in the country. To protect Bambi's mom, management has not allowed doe hunting, and so they have created a huge imbalance in the buck/doe population, and our deer herds are dying of starvation. If our DFW were allowed to do their jobs without political interference, we fishermen and hunters would be a lot better off, and so would the wildlife in CA.
  14. 1 point
    Lure Parts Online and I sure other suppliers have the rectangular display containers that I use to package swimbaits and lures.
  15. 1 point
    they have them custom made from what I have found . sorry no better news for you. God Bless
  16. 1 point
    Drilled a couple of holes and attached a #2 Colorado blade to #7 Colorado Blade. Every 3-4 turns the blades click.
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