I've foiled a lot of wide-body square-bills, and also a lot of flat-body round-bills. On all of them, I've used the least expensive kitchen foil I can find. I want a foil that is both very thin - the cheaper foil is usually thinner than the name brand foil - and I want a foil that is VERY shiny. Sometimes the less expensive foil lacks the "shine" I want. If so, I try another brand.
To cut the foil, I pull a suitable length from the roll, and cut a strip about 2 1/2 inches wide. Then, I fold the strip lengthwise, so I end up with a doubled strip that is about 1 1/4" wide (this applies to a bait that is about 1" tall). I then cut the strip into lengths that are a little longer than what I need for each bait to be foiled. I usually build baits a dozen at a time - sometimes more, and sometimes less, but usually 12. I trace my foil pattern onto one of the foil pieces and place that on top of a stack of 5 more of the doubled foil pieces. Then, using scissors I cut out 6 doubled foils. Since they're folded, I have one shiny left side and one shiny right side. If I'm foiling 12 baits I repeat the previous few steps so I end up with a total of 24 pieces of foil. Trying to cut more than 6 sets at a time usually results in the foil skewing away from the scissor edge, or the foil tearing.
Now, it's time to apply the foil to the bait. My balsa baits have been sealed with D2T prior to foiling. For adhesive, I use Liquid Nails Projects. The one I use comes in a squeeze tube, not a cartridge (available from Lowes). First, using my finger, I apply an even coat of the adhesive to one side of the bait and hang the bait by the line tie. I apply the adhesive to only one side of all of the baits I want to foil, up to about 12 at a time. I then start applying the foil to the one side of each bait that has adhesive. The adhesive will not harden and will remain soft for quite a while. This is important because you want to be able to emboss the scale pattern into the foil. That's why I use this particular adhesive. It provides a soft surface for whatever knurling tool you choose to use. Like other members, I also use the handle of ratchet. I cut the handle off of a cheap ratchet that I found lying in the street. It turned out to be a Pittsburgh brand, which is sold at Harbor Freight. It is a really great knurling tool with sharp edges to the knurl. You really can't get a great looking scale pattern with a rounded-edge knurl.
Anyway, the Liquid Nails Projects adhesive is water-soluble until it fully cures. I apply the foil with my finger and then use a wooden dowel, about 1/4 inch in diameter, to burnish the edges of the foil. Any adhesive that squeezes out from the edges of the foil can be removed with a slightly damp cloth. Once I get one side of each bait foiled I start over with the other side and apply the adhesive, then the foil. It is important to make sure you don't have excess adhesive on the shiny foil. The size of the foil is determined by the paint pattern. If you have a very thin paint stripe on top or bottom, you need a taller foil. A wider paint pattern means you can use a shorter foil. A taller foil means that you simply have to take more time burnishing the edges. Get as many of the wrinkles as flat as possible. Aluminum foil is soft and will thin out with the burnishing, leaving a fairly smooth edge.
Now, it's time to emboss the scale pattern. Simply roll the handle onto the foil. The soft adhesive will allow the pattern to be easily transferred to the foil. You really don't want to deform a balsa bait during this step. And, by using this adhesive, you can also more easily foil a plastic bait. If you've ever tried to foil a plastic bait, you quickly learn that it is very difficult to get the scale pattern to be embossed into the foil. Same for a balsa bait that has been sealed with with epoxy or CA.
The trick is the burnishing along the edges of the foil. Just about anything with a round edge will work. I just happen to prefer the 1/4" wooden dowel. I actually tapered the end of the dowel I use. It has a softly-rounded tip. As long as you don't leave a really "proud" ridge of foil, the later coats of epoxy and paint will hide the edges. After embossing, check for adhesive that might have squeezed out from under the foil. Wipe it away with your damp cloth. After foiling I apply a coat of D2T epoxy, before painting. You need to apply this coat thick enough to fill in the "scales" in the foil, especially if you are painting over the foil with maybe a translucent color. Then, you don't have to worry about the paint filling in the scales. If you are not painting over the foil you'll have a nice start to a very smooth finish.
Tying to emboss the foil before applying it to the bait is a losing battle. If you're doing that because you can't emboss the scale pattern into the foil after you've applied the foil, you need to use a softer adhesive and emboss the foil on the bait.
If you have questions you can PM me. I can also explain how you can build an embossing tool using a small section of the knurled ratchet handle.