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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/17/2015 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I use BSI 30 Minute Slow Cure Epoxy... I never measure but do a 5 count of each part into a plastic medicinal cup. Mix the crap out of it with a drill and piece of spinnerbait wire bent at 90 degrees. Then I dip the brush in DA and any bubbles will disperse. That is more than enough for 2 baits which is all i have time to do if I take my time. I will do the lipless as my 2nd of the two baits if possible. As the DA evaporates and the epoxy THICKENS, it does not "pull" away from the edges. I find the key to brushing epoxy on is to have enough on the brush, so it will "flow" as you brush it as opposed to the epoxy being "pulled" with the brush. A little more info here than needed to answer the question, but this is my process and works very well for me.
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    Latest project, been working on this for the past couple of days. Need some better water conditions and some hungry fish for final testing. Body carved from high density poly foam. Notice tie point is on the tail to pull the bait through the water like a natural crayfish in escape mode. Hook is a standard treble hook with the opposing barb cut off to minimize snagging. This may change based on testing. Claws are craft foam, we'll see how that holds up in use. Legs are standard spinnerbait skirt material, (four strands) Legs and claws are replacable if they get worn.
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    Salt shaker I am afraid to ask but how do you print on toilet paper ? Guess it works great for those finless browns. ; )
  6. 1 point
    I think a lot of these materials are too stiff, seeing as the flexibility is required over such a short distance, from one section of the lure to the next, just a few millimeters. I think there is a solution in a nylon thread, which I am holding in front of me. It is close to 1/16" diameter, incredibly strong. I cannot see a pike or a musky cutting it, may be fray it a little, but it is a compound thread and very flexible. As mentioned in several posts previous, fixing with glue and dealing with topcoats are the problems, with wicking. Diemai touched on one solution in post No17. Fitting small diameter plastic tubes in the lure sections and passing the thread through without bonding. The string is fixed at the front with a knot or crimp, passes through all the sections and back to the front through a second set of tubes and fixed. As long as the string is loose, the sections will find their own position. The sections are chamfered to allow for movement, as with all jointed swimbaits. I built a glued version of this idea 8 years ago and it worked very well with a very nice S-shaped action. I never got around to posting it or developing the idea further. Dave
  7. 1 point
    Yes they are solvent based. Respirator and ventilation will be needed.
  8. 1 point
    http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Application_Chart.asp Here's the comparison chart
  9. 1 point
    I think that is Solarfall. Not sure. He has posted here before.
  10. 1 point
    Here you have a excellent Nemo pattern painting tutorial on Youtube. Make sure to watch this guys other videos too cause he got some really cool tutorials. He makes a special kind of Nemo pattern. You should just use Orange and yellow.
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    I usually hit both parts of my D2T with my hair dryer in cold weather, so they become more runny and easier to squeeze out and mix. The resin is always thicker than the hardener, at least for me. An associated question. Is there an epoxy that will prevent me from dropping a freshly coated lure onto my garage's carpet strip? Hahaha
  14. 1 point
    As a supplier of blanks, I can't say anything bad about any of the guys that sell unpainted cranks as I have ordered from just about all of them and have had great experiences. The only suggestion I can give is don't go through wLure. All of their baits are KO's of KO's and the quality isn't there. You really can't go wrong with ordering from any of the guys on here.
  15. 1 point
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