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I bought a pack of the 4/0 Strike King Hack Attack Heavy Wire Flipping hooks. (Here's what they look like: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Strike_King_Hack_Attack_Heavy_Cover_Flipping_Hooks_4pk/descpage-SKHAFH.html The 4/0 is the smallest size they sell, but it's a little big for the baits that I want to use it with. I'm wanting a hook like the Hack Attack Heavy flipping hook, but in smaller sizes. Other companies make a similar hook, but that I like. So, I took a look at the Mustad spinnerbait hooks that I use to build bladed jigs. They look a whole lot like the Hack Attack hook and, of course, they come in smaller sizes. I did check the eyes and they are pinched very tightly shut, so I didn't think 50 pound braided line I use would slip through the gap int he hookeye. However, I did find one that had a rough edge, which is no big deal when making a spinnerbait or bladed jig, but would be if they were used for flipping. But, they are bright silver and don't have a keeper. I may have to do some homespun engineering and experimenting. I took a 3/0 Mustad spinnerbait hook with me to the lake this morning. I snelled it and caught several fish on a plastic worm. Then, I noticed that the first 2 wraps had pulled into the tiny gap in the hookeye. When I got home, I mixed some JB Weld and used it to close the gap in the hookeye and cover any rough spots. Then, the JB Weld didn't set properly. I don't know if I didn't mix it evenly or if it was just too old to work. I took the JB Weld off the hooks and applied some 5 minute epoxy. It set up nicely and appears to be exactly what I wanted. I also thought about putting some shrink tubing below the hookeye that would block the tiny gap in the hookeye. I tried it on one hook. To make it work I would have to tie my line over the top of it. Probably not a big deal. But, I think the epoxy will work well enough that I don't have to fool around with the shrink tubing. Any other suggestions from you experts?

Try building one with cedar. The main thing to remember is to give the grain a little extra attention while rough sanding. If you don't, the grains of the wood will make small protruding lines. You can probably cut the amount of ballast by at least 1/2 (just a starting point). I think you would be pleased with the results.

The speed of the action is dependent solely on the lip width. The narrower the lip the faster the wiggle. For a tight action rather than a wide action, the coffin is a good choice. I tested various lip shapes in a direct comparison and the coffin was narrower than the others. Depth is just about finding the sweet spot for the tow eye location. Too far forward or back and you lose depth. No one can tell you where this is, you have to find it by testing. Examine pictures of similar baits and start there. A heavier wood will give a tighter action than balsa. But all you need to do is spread the ballast out on a balsa lure to achieve a tighter/narrower action. It would make more sense to use a heavier density wood. Dave

Limpnoodle, I sent you a pm

Your question is clear to me, but i think you have your answer in this post I had never thought about it until you mentioned it, but making the balsa dive would create much more load on your rod than a dense hardwood would Think of trying to sink a beach ball compared to sinking a big log

My business program does all that for me. Like Cadman I keep tabs in Plano boxes. As I buy new ones I add the amount to the appropriate item number in the program. Then as I sell a jig or spinnerbait/buzzbait the program subtracts all the components from inventory. I set the reminders to alert me when a components falls below the desired onhand level.

best advice DONT USE PYREX to pour with use a small 1 cup pouring pan (like mom used to use to make cakes with) stainless or alum. fill it up 1/4 or less Never OVER 1/4 you can pour 1/16 lines with very little practis. now before you run out and buy a measuring cup to erase any doubt, goto the kitchen grab a coffee cup or glass. fill it with water and try to pour a small stream. Next to impossible.. now take that same glass fill it up 1/4 full and pour. what happens is you want to be able to turn that pan almost 90 degrees before the plastic comes out other wise it will run down the side. Dont forget after each pour whipe off the tip of the pan use a chunk of dried plastic it works best. you can use your pyrex to heat the plastic up then pour in the pan after heated. Wall mart sells them very cheap. if they dont have a spout just take a pair of dykes and bend a small one in . you really dont need anyspout. if your hands are shakey, get a yellow pages phone book, lean up against the counter put the mold on the oopsite side of the phone book, rest your wrist on the phone book and pour away. it helps me alot when I have shakey hands.