Leaderboard

Mark, I've often had top water prop baits have their bodies spin, mainly on mass produced baits. The easiest way to correct it, that I've found, is to take a bell sinker and fasten it to the hook hanger on the lure body. You might have to experiment with the size of the bell sinker but 99 times out of 100 it works.

A few years ago I knocked out a large dent in a sheet steel motor housing, by dropping it in the sand outside my shop and beating it out with a hammer. Later I learned that an old trick for that sort of work is to use a soft leather bag filled with sand as backing.

d2t topcoat then 5/0 steel wool

Dave that is by far the only way I am going to find out what I need. I guess it all has to do with the type of plastic your using. I am using do it molds plastic right now but I am going to switch over to luckycrafts the next time I order i think I will get me a used small aquarium that will tell the story on what the bait does. I just needed like a starting point and I was curious what other folks was doing. I have a long way to go on pouring plastics but that is half the fun right !! ha ha. Thanks my friend for the help I will do just what you suggested. Pete

Use it to make an ice fishing rod.

Hey I was messing around with this idea last week and here are a few I made. I traced an oval shape onto a piece of aluminum cut it out leaving the line then I used a bench grinder to shape it to the line. A wire wheel removed sharp edges then I hammered the center on a padded surface with a ball peen hammer. This gives it the cupped shape. Find center and drill 3 holes . Done!

@ BrownPigs I've been making casting spoons and spinner blades from sheet metal for almost 20 years now , so I don't see any reason , why it should not be possible to make "jitterbug" lips in the same manner as well ! I haven't yet tried it for one major reason which is the line tie intergrated on top of the lip ,....... it would take a special rigid metal alloy to render this line tie sufficiently rigid against bending and also the entire lip twisting within .The lip has to be quite light in weight , so I would furnish it from 0,5mm thick stainless steel sheet or 1,0mm aluminium sheet , .......both of these materials , that are easily accessible to me , would certainly not fulfill my demands in terms of stability of the intergrated line tie . I have made some jtterbug style lures with commercially available lips of different sizes and weights , these lips were not much thicker than I would make them , but they were a lot more rigid in terms od bending and twisting within than I could make them with my materials . These lips were not that expensive , so I haven't bothered to try to make my own , .......but it definately is possible ! You need to make a plane marker template at first to mark the outline of the lip on your sheet metal , drive around it with a marker needle or a thin permanent felt pen . Cut out the rough outline with shears , ordinary ones should do with the above mentioned materials , for more rigid sheets it requires bench shears , .............but the small latch of the intergrated line tie and the indention between the two wings of lip at bottom would give you problems cutting with shears , might as well use a metal bladed jigsaw for those details . Afterwards you need to grind and file the outline to final shape and accuracy , break all edges thoroughly . Make yourself a beating template of hardwood , utilize your lip template again for the outline and take a small round chisel and/or "Dremel"with oval router bits and gouge out the lips cupping curve in the hardwood , smoothen that indention as good as possible . Now utilize a small plastic hammer to beat your lip cut-out flush into the indention of your hardwood template to achieve the initial cupping of the lip . After you might use a small ball peen hammer to achieve sharper and/or deeper cupping portions . Now your cupped lip would look rather ugly with plenty of bumps and blemishes on it and you'd want to smoothen it's surface . You would do that with your small ball peen hammer on a rigid and plain steel plate/anvil or similar , place your lip onto the surface and constantly hit the cuppings inside(exactly where the lip contacts the plate) with the hammer , a change of the angle , that you hold the lip onto the plate does alter the grade and direction of the cupping ,..........takes a bit of practice , but it definately works , ........the more often you'd hit the lip with the hammer , the smoother the surface would become . After you're finally satisfied with the looks and cupping of your lip , mark line tie and screw holes with a felt pen(you could have done that from the start as well , but mark the holes with a center punch not to loose the location whilst doing the cupping work), mark with a 90° center punch , so that your drill bits find instant grip and drill through , also carefully break the edges of the holes afterwards with a 90° countersunk or a bigger drill bit ! Mark and drill from the inside of the cupping , virtually the front of the lip , .........hold with one hand onto a scrap piece of wood on your drill press ans drill through . Good luck , diemai

Here is the equivalent for Mustad. Mustad compatible 32756 (Bronze) 32755R(ed) 32746BLN (Black Nickel) 32746BR (Bronze) 37746R(ed) 32755 (Gold) I believe they have all the sizes you want.