Leaderboard

Yep - it's the particle stuff.... I've had a few tables made with it for 7-8 years so holds up fine for me. If you leave the edges raw - they can get chipped a bit - but I haven't had any real issues unless I hammered a corner directly. I wouldn't leave it unsupported - meaning making a makeshift table with saw horses at each end will cause it to slowly bow - but if you support it reasonably well it lasts a pretty long time... I like that I can screw down into it, drill holes to clamp - even hot glue something in place in a jam and not care too much about it. It's not as tough over the long haul as plywood/steel/etc.... but for the price and to have something that wipes clean (I use WD-40 on tough stuff and then Windex) if stuff is "glued" to it - I run a razor or chisel over the top to scrape stuff off.... its hard to beat. J.

Item 4431 at LurePartsonline.com

You can check the gasket around the door by closing the door on a dollar bill. If the bill is snug when tugged on then the seal is OK. You can buy radiation detectors for this purpose, but I don't think there is any government agency that certifies these devices so the manufacturer can probably make any claims they want to. Ben

I use broken rod blanks for spare guides as well. I also have added reamer grit to make a tool to ream out cork and foam handles. Broken rod blanks also provide the material necessary to extend handles or add overall blank length from the bottom. What else can you creative types think of?

Yep, that's what he said. MDF = Medium Density Fiberboard.

I buy the 3/4" 4x8 sheets of MDF with the very thin layer of melamine from Home Depot. It won't take direct heat very well - but it's nice and easy to clean - spilled/dripped plastic just wipes off it. It's cheap ($35) and double sided so you can flip it if it gets roughed up over time. Regarding the heat - I run my presto right on top - no issue - but I can't recall putting a heated pyrex on it directly on it as I usually use the silicone cups. No issue with hot plastic pouring/spilling on it - it takes that sort of heat with no issue - but I know from my glue gun / soldering iron - if you leave sustained direct contact heat on it - it will burn just like any other wood/MDF. J. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Melamine-White-Panel-Common-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-750-in-x-49-in-x-97-in-461877/100070209

You can find glow in the dark glitter here. http://www.bulkglitters.com/fine-glitter-fluorescent-bulk-glow-in-the-dark/

This is what I have been using Mark. I have been testing it from the beginning. I said that I would not say anything about what it was until I was confident in the product, until I was sure. I've been using it now for about 9 months. It has good results so far. It is not real glossy but that's what I'm looking for. It's very quick drying and easy to use. I spray it outside, then hang the lure up. I put multiple coats on in minutes. I protect the cuts and drill holes from water intrusion first before spraying. At this point I'm very happy with it. Take Care, Dale

Old school method is Naval Jelly. It is a mild phosphoric acid that can be dabbed on and quickly removes most metal oxidation. Available in paint department.

You need more brain food, like Rice Crispies - contains synapse. Dave

On my workbench which is carpeted, I have a 18" x 18" Glaze ceramic tile works very good and plastic don't stick to it. Not as cold steel and was only $2.50 at lowe's.

DaveMc1 - yes indeed, you are correct, to a certain extent. What actually causes the concentration of energy that results in a spark, is sharp edges and corners. So you can even get your sausages to spark, if you slice sharp edges into them. Metal simply makes things worse by allowing the electrons/energy to flow easier. The electrons concentrate at the sharp corners and spark. This is why spoons are harmless on the MW, they have rounded edges. Forks cause far more problems because of the tangs. Glitter is just perfect for sparking, with all its sharp edges. The example that I read of glitter causing the problem, has the metallic glitter glued as a decoration around the edge of a paper plate. Having the glitter suspended in plastisol may well be enough to absorb all the energy and no problem will exist. There is only one way to find out. Just keep your finger on the stop button for the test. All I can do is the research and then pass the information along to you guys. Practical experience will always count for more, and so if you guys say that it works, then that is good enough for me. Stay safe my friends Dave

Barlow's tackle lists some extra large skirts. http://www.barlowstackle.com/Lunker-Silicone-Skirt-Layers-P791.aspx

Baking soda blast them...

Hey Mark, What color are they and do you want to sell them? Ben

Get him to send you some of his baits and repaint them in colors of his choosing. Ben

Whatever works for you guys, i have microwaved aluminum chips in plastic more than once. Wasnt a issue in my micro. I have used aluminum based automotive pearl powders as well.

I'm not sure if this will help but Salty's has pike and surf kits of very nice quality just not sure he's got what your looking for? Other than that I have seen some nice sized wood blanks on ebay from a guy I think is in Poland they looked pretty nice.

Hi Mark, what do you think about these UV glitter http://www.hennings-gummischmiede.de/epages/78042013.sf/de_DE/?ObjectID=43606544&ViewAction=ViewFaceted&FacetValue_CategoryID=43606544 I have not tried them, yet, but they seem to be a great stuff. Bye. Cami

Here is how is round over crankbait lips. tools needed vice grips, washer or bushing, band saw or sander. 1. clamp lip to bushing or washer using vice grips. 2. shape lip with bandsaw or sander. 3. clean up with sandpaper. hope this helps. Todd

That is the gift of the globalization of trade, or, more accurately, the outsourcing of industry and jobs. I used to live half a mile from a Sears branch, and one day, as I was walking in there to shop, I realized that everything I was wearing, from my boots on up, was from Sears. That was in the early 70's, when most if not all of the stuff they sold was still made here in the U.S.. No more, obviously. It's kind of a vicious cycle. We want cheaper stuff because we no longer have jobs that pay well enough to afford better stuff. And industry provides cheaper stuff by manufacturing in countries with cheap labor and no pollution controls. Fortunately, as workers all over the world are paid more, they want a better standard of living, so, either their wages will go up, or industry will flee to another country with cheap labor. Just because workers in other countries don't have our education or standard of living doesn't mean they don't love their families and want a better life for them, just like us. Eventually they'll run out of poor countries to exploit. And the pollution from unregulated manufacturing will cause a backlash in those countries (think China and their filthy air) and force the governments to do something, or have their populations die. Funny how lots of other developed countries (Europe) seem to have avoided the worst of this, and protected domestic manufacturing. So, short story long, that's why your Craftsman pliers say China on them.

fishon-son, The size and type blank are a couple of the questions I am asking. What are some preferred sizes and types? Also the design is what is found in nature, small, medium and large bait fish. Designed for individual target species. Thanks for your advice. Vodkaman- No not made in China, made by hand in the U.S.A. from American components. Not made of plastic from injection mold. At this point it is a small venture. With just a few employees. My task is to make a better bait than all the others, most durable, best action and highest quality. Thanks for your suggestions.

I also placed an order with Shelts. I had the same experience as RP. Ordered 1.5, 1.5 med diver, little john shallow and the 110 all foiled. Just as RP stated all the baits showed up dumped in a small box all rubbing together. The foil was scratched on every bait except the 110's. Each 1.5 had a spot where the foil didn't cover on the side of the bait, every bait same spot. The 1.5's also had excessive glue from the foiling process on the nose of the bait, that will have to be sanded. The LJ's had linear scratches on both sides and a bad flat spot on the top of the head from grinding the plastic sprue. A pretty good flat spot at that, will be very noticeable without a lot of sanding. The 1.5 medium divers were bad as well. All had some sort of missing spots and poor foil overall. They also had a bad sprue on the top on the head that will require prep work. While the foil on the 110's was acceptable, some had glue drips on the head from hanging while drying. Hook hangers on a lot of the baits were bent and needed to be straightened. While bending some back the two plastic body halves started to separate. I agree with RP that these baits are rejects. I emailed Jack@shelts to tell him how disappointed I was with the quality of his baits I explained the flaws with each bait and why I felt that they were factory flaws. I also told him that the lack of any negative reviews on his website was a total manipulation on his part. If he were to state that these baits were factory flaws and that some had these blemishes that would one thing but to advertise that these are quality baits is a downright fabrication. In my email I asked for half my money back as most of these would wind up as key chains. He replied that while he could not refund my money he could send some non-foiled baits in the same models. Something is more than nothing I figured so I emailed him back to say "Send me what you think would make this right". I did receive another package with the stated baits. My initial order was about 100 foiled baits and he sent me another 41 clear baits in addition. While these obviously did not have the foil issues they had some of the same other problems, bent hangers, sprues not prepped and white stuff stuck to the side of the bait in the scale areas. He gets credit for getting back to me and attempting to make thing right. I have not gotten any wet yet so I can't comment on how they run or if they are able to be tuned. So my opinion is if you value your time and painting skills and want to produce the highest of quality custom paint jobs, these baits are not for you. I would have no problem if he advertised them as what they are, as blems. Even as blems, at that price I would fish them myself if they will run true. Most would probably be OK if you wanted to totally opaque them out, but if you want to do any transparent work, forget it! You get what you pay for could never be more true here. If you are into bargains and want to sell at the swap meet or make custom club key chains these would be great. I hope I haven't offended anyone here, that's just my take on his products and service. Happy painting and a great New year!

Use it to make an ice fishing rod.

Do not pour hot plastic on your leg.

Oh yes.....the significant other. I could go on FOREVER about that! Here's a good "don't" that pretty much says it all for the newbies....... Don't EVER invade her space or use ANY of her tools!