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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/12/2016 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Minimum time for me is 24 hours, but prefer as much time as I can let them sit which is sometimes a week or so. Like flattie said, if you don't bag them correctly they'll kink and bend regardless.
  2. 2 points
    @ pescabaits The two lures on top do not work , because the diving planes are too small compared to the body diameter and volume . Compared to the common added crankbait lips of metal and plastic mounted below the chin of a lurebody , these integrated diving vanes already do provide somewhat less and softer action to a lure , ...simply because they cannot generate so much leverage around the tow eye . And on these two lures the diving planes are so small and do not even pass over the belly diameter of the the rest of the lure body , so even less leverage can be generated , .......a diving plane should always protrude over the belly diameter , ..the more it does , the more leverage and the more action can be generated , ...to an extend , that the lure can even overturn and blow out , if either the diving lip is too long or the tow eye placed too high . The lower lure would certainlky come up with some kinda action , as the lip is longer and does protrude over the body diameter , .......but you have made the thickest body portion right behind the lip , .....this means , that the lure has it's greatest buoyancy in front , now the lip might get to sit too high and not shoulder into the water perfectly . You might try to add some ballast to the front body to overcome this issue , but I have learned , that any kind of belly ballast to such lures with integrated diving planes dampens their wiggling action more or less , ......simply because these lips do not provide as much leverage and do have difficulties with moving around added ballast . You must try to place the ballast deep into the belly right on the lengthwise center axis , right in the center of gravity , ......it should act neutral there and not affect the wiggle , but allow the front portion to hang deeper . Such lures and also banana lures with integrated diving vanes must have their greatest buoyancy in the center of body or slighly behind , ...causing them to float up horizontal or slighly head down , ...this way the diving vane shoulders nicely into the water and they should perform flawless . A shorter , egg shaped body of this type of lure would swim more irregular with a kinda "drunken" hunting action , but still wiggle within ,......a more elongated body would swim more stable , wiggle more regular and won't hunt as much ,....simply because a longer body has more guidance in the water , ......but remember , it is essential to let the diving plane protrude over the belly ! Good luck , Dieter
  3. 2 points
    Here's the simplest way I know to make a durable crankbait. Wipe a coat of Devcon Two Ton epoxy thinned with a little denatured alcohol on the raw wood. This waterproofs it and stops the grain from rising when hit with paint. Lightly sand it smooth after it cures. If you sand down to raw wood again anywhere, apply another coat of Devcon. You want a smooth waterproof surface to paint. No "primer". Shoot a white paint basecoat, then the colors. If you use aerosol paint, let it dry at least 24 hrs to get rid of the solvents. Brush on a topcoat of straight unthinned Devcon Two Ton. Rotate it. You can fish it after 24 hrs. You need to rotate the lure, or at least switch it head/tail every little while for the first hour that Devcon is curing. Using the Devcon for both under and topcoating keeps things simple. I use Size 2 split rings on 95% of my crankbaits.
  4. 1 point
    @ porkmeatballs I have only made a handful of swimbaits so far , always tried to let them sink at a horizontal level , but for no other reason but a natural appearance . But I figure out , that a slightly head-down sinking level might enhance a deeper running of the bait , .....though I'm not sure about that . All I know is , that down the single segments from front to rear the ballast per each segment should decrease , meaning that most ballast should sit in the first section , the second heaviest load in the second section and just a little or possibly no ballast in the third and especially the following sections down the rear . To let a swimbait do it's snaking motions , vortices down the flanks are generated by the first and biggest section , these vortices flowing down the flanks of the bait cause the second , third and following section to move sidewards to achieve the typical snaking action ,.......so if these rear sections would become too heavy due to added ballast , the vortices would come to lack sufficient power to move those heavier sections and the bait won't work well anymore . This is why the first section in front is usually the biggest and most voluminous section of the bait , ....it is the "engine" of the entire bait , so to speak , ......if any rear sections would be made as big and voluminous , the bait won't perform, ........well , apart from a two-section bait ! But I won't call such a typical swimbait , but some sort of a two-section glidebait , as it won't "snake" within, but come back in a wave pattern at constant pull or break out sideward on initial jerks . Greetings , Dieter
  5. 1 point
    Or you can take Bait Junky's worm, and with a simple snip, have a 9 inch, 8 inch, 7 inch, 6 inch . . . . You won't get a 10 inch worm out of a 9, 8, 7, 6, inch mold!
  6. 1 point
    To me , it's the nature of the business , that such lures rise to the surface on retrieve more or less , .....they are just not suited to fish depths beyond 10 feet . To keep them that deep at all, one must place more weight , possibly into the front and second section only(overweighting rear sections kills their snaking action) to let them sink at a rate of about one foot/second , ...second option is , in conjunction with more ballast , to place a more or less downward pointing diving bill underneath the chin . Also one should pause the retrieve now and then to allow the bait to drop back to maintain it's working depth. Good luck , Dieter
  7. 1 point
    I think I demoed Vectric 3D a while back and found it a little wanting. CamBam at half the price does basic 3D Cam (STL & 3DS only) and has lots of good tools to get the job done. Its a little wanting for high speed machining methods, like trachoidal milling, constant engagement, and rest machining, but even many of the more expensive programs only include those in their premium packages. Lots of guys make the jump to BobCAD, but I found BobCAD wasn't all that great for organic shapes. Its good for mechanical and geometric work. Fusion360 seems to be the one that's affordable (free to hobbyists, startups, and small business (under 100k)) with good HSM machining strategies and good 3D organic CAD, but it does have a pretty steep learning curve. As a hobbyist I'd either go CamBam ($150) and modest learning curve with a fantastic support forum, or Fusion360 with a pretty steep learning curve. For a long time I used ViaCAD ($200) and CamBam ($150). I also hear FreeCAD is getting a lot better, and they are planning a CAM module for it in the foreseeable future. Another thing you might find useful would be a cut simulator. Some CAD/CAM systems have them built in. I think BobCAD and Fusion360 do. I do not care for the one Andy at CamBam packages with CamBam. I found CutViewer to be difficult and inconsistent, and it has not been updated in a long time. CNC Simulator isn't bad, but I got tired of the constant renewals. I played with a free open source cut simulator called Camotics not that long ago. You have to jump through some hoops (not to bad) to get it to work right, but I've used it a couple times to show people approximations of what their mold will look like. Here is a really simple video I did a while back for somebody who was struggling on the CamBam forum. I skipped a lot of stuff in order to keep the video short. Its just intended to help somebody over the hump, not be a comprehensive tutorial.
  8. 1 point
    Thanks, Roger. I may get that Swimbait soon. Let me know how that cb400 fishes.
  9. 1 point
    yes i have this color from them and its 100% junebug and redbug. mix hot pink and red to get it.
  10. 1 point
    that should read still !!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    lol..got an old abu rod in locker just for this!!!!!!
  13. 1 point
    WHEN YOU GET THAT HOME PAGE click on change theme THEN FROM DROP DOWN MENU CLICK ON IP.BOARD MOBILE This should fix you up
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