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First I want to thank to Woodie, that Transtar is amazing, here are some follow ups on my clear coat projects Sprayed following baits with Harbor Freight airbrush, using following clear coats Envirotex, Devcon two ton and Acme A1 finish, all satisfactory, best one Devcon two ton 30 min Than yesterday I used Transtar True Finish, I got just about the same result that that I had with the above finish. The airbrush seemed to work fine, but was not getting enough of the clear coat medium, were the bait would look wet. I watched a video on u tube how to apply a clear coat to a car and I could see the wet look I should be getting, I went back to work I had a Paasche that I purchased when I first started painting but never used it, I fired that baby up, set up the pressure at 35 psi as per Woodie and I was able to adjust the nozzle on this brush and get all the fluid I wanted, the baits came out amazing The problem was not using the right brush. The Paache model that i used is H0611 single stage I also cleaned the brush as was stated by Bob Nite to take the brush apart and clean it thoroughly, and that is the only way to do it properly, this particular brush super easy to take apart, one little screw and the nozzle comes right out The mix ratio On the Envirotex I use denatured alcohol I add drops until the screwdriver will not hold drops of fluid, works for me Transtar I use a 4 to 1 ratio straight no reducer 3 coats with 10 minutes flash time between coats Now I want to try Bob's Nite S81, I finally came up with a way to tap the can with a valve, making it easy to dispense the liquid, posted a tutorial Woodieb8 you made my day Gino

If i remember correctly, which might be questionable...when I was pouring plastics, I took a spray bottle and mixed the HL powder with some DA and sprayed it right on the plastic. The DA evaporated and left the HL powder on the plastic.....might work pretty good on a hard bait. If it's a bit thick you might be able to just pull the needle back a hair......pulling the needle back might work for spraying clears as well.

If I were doing it, I'd play around with adding some hilite powder that I use for soft plastics to my top coat.

medical syringes are your problem, get some syringes for rod building and problem solved

This happened to me, it isn't the Devcon, it is the medical syringes you used...medical syringes use a lightweight silicone based lubricant on the rubber plungers..silicone is what caused the dimples so find some syringes to use that are dry and you wont have this issue...good luck.

I am getting to a point were I am seriously considering the investment. Lures is only a small part of it though, but outsourcing the printing is just too costly. I am toying with a new, light design of a bicycle frame, but to print it out, it would have to be in something like 16 pieces that plug together. But it is a prototype, NOT a saleable item. Having my own RP printer would open up a lot of ideas that previously would have been extremely expensive to prototype and so the ideas collect virtual dust. Dave

In theory. You should have fume hood evacuating fumes outside..full face mask with separate air source fed via hose that's suitable grade air to breathe..and gloves to handle both unreacted,and final reacted plastic ..as once pigments are added constant exposures of dyestuf is bad news..it builds up in liver..

The head of a plastics research department here locally that I was chatting with said,he banned vinyl plastics from his department..only plastic type that he viewwed as dangerous..we had this discussion.somewhere here before..even.phalate.free might have some phalates since most suppliers.are rebranding.and don't really know.how there product was made.. The head of a plastics research department here locally that I was chatting with said,he banned vinyl plastics from his department..only plastic type that he viewwed as dangerous..we had this discussion.somewhere here before..even.phalate.free might have some phalates since most suppliers.are rebranding.and don't really know.how there product was made..

Any time that you put yourself to airborne chemical vapors, I would say there is a issue. Won't hurt to wear a respirator with proper filters and glasses. After seeing things I am all for safety. I'll tell what an epoxy did to a guy. Make it short and sweet. He looked like the Pillsbury Doughboy. He was allergic to a chemical in the epoxy paint. It was cutting his airway off. Eye's close shut from swelling. Safety first, Dale

Lures are for the fish, colors are for the fishermen. That is a great looking bait but not worth that price point.

I have a bucket of saw dust and lead mixed together in the shed for about 6 years now. I can only guess it was from a hospital x-ray room getting built. It was given to me with several other buckets with good lead in it. One of these days, I will scoop it out a little at a time and dump into a bucket of water so the lead sinks and the wood floats to reclaim the lead. And before someone on a platform tells me, yes, I do know to make sure it's water free/dry before melting. I do care. If proper precautions are taken, I see no issue with cutting lead with a saw. Don't do it myself, probably will not ever do it. I know people that think we all are crazy for pouring lead, period. We learned to handle it right to minimize the hazard. Myself, I would not care to hear from one of them that "You just don't care". Proper precautions can be done for this method, and those that use them really do care.

Maybe a little oil from your fingers or hands? That will cause the separation or pits.....also if the epoxy is starting to set this can happen as it is pulled by the brush. I know you're not new at this but thought I throw it out there. It really needs to flow. i use epoxy as well and the working time is 2 at a time but can't take the odor of e-tex. One thing I do after EVERY bait I paint is spray it with something...whether it a flip/flop paint...flair tint, Polytranspar shimmer.... this covers all and any contamination. Also keeps your signature from smearing if using a Micron pen. @Mark.....if you dip your brush in DA after mixing the the epoxy to a froth (I use BSI) it temporarily thins it and all the bubbles are gone instantly and the DA evaporates. I use to exhale on the bubbles to degass but was always afraid to end up with a mouth full!

I have found that not mixing enough is usually the culprit. In our desire to keep bubbles down, we are sometimes too gentle. Mix the crap out of it, and then use a hair dryer to heat it, and your breath to p.o.p. the bubbles before you coat your lure. Here's what I would do: Mix up a test batch of the epoxy to see if it sets right. Put some of that test batch over the same paint scheme to you will see if it was the paint. If it is the epoxy, get some more epoxy that is good, and just put another coat over the bad. It should make it right.