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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/12/2017 in all areas

  1. I guess we should stop building lures all together... I'm sure every one of us are infringing on a patent of some sort Nonsense!... Make your swim baits... Sell them to your friends People sell drugs every day, pretty sure that's illegal too... Just don't go all Scar Face, stepping on the feet of Mexican lure lords and snorting kilos of plastisol... And I bet you'll be fine
    2 points
  2. Here is a crawdad I painted by wiping off the paint. I painted the blank base white and heat set. then I painted it pearl lime, heat set then I put some Windex on a paper towel and wiped off certain spots so it gets to the layer before it.Then I sprayed transparent red and wiped off certain spots. Then cranberry and wiped off certain spots, heat setting in between colors. then on top I dabbed black with a paper towel and wiped some off. Painted the claw tips blue and added the black spots with a Sharpe and clear coated. The last two pictures show the same technique with lighter colors.
    1 point
  3. OK, on the way into work this morning I thought I would pour some horsehead jigs tonight. Now I know people use foil etc for the swivel so you can heat and paint the jighead and keep the swivel turning freely, but I thought "there has to be a better way" and that way would be a tube form over the swivel. Now heat shrink would work but then you have to cut it off etc and other soft materials would melt with the heat. Hard tubes wouldn't work either. So here is my possible solution: pour some RTV silicone in a straw and let it cure. Cut it in lengths that will cover your swivel. Poke a hole through it lengthwise with a heavy needle. You can now slide it onto the swivel, heat up the bait, paint and then pinch the silicone to remove it. The main worry would be it will remove a bunch from the jig head itself too. The silicone can definitely handle the heat. Please discuss!
    1 point
  4. The advantage with using decals is that the glitter is held in a spaced pattern that you can place wherever you like.
    1 point
  5. +8" Gold foil wood Pikie Surfster Hybrid.. Sun Yellow over gold foiling, black scales on backbone, black scale for eye blush.. 4.7oz., thru-wired, D2T epoxy..
    1 point
  6. Bogbaits Green Mamba Rattle Snake Lure,these come in 6 inch and 8 inch versions,custom colored plastic and custom painted,these have a 3 ball Pyrex glass rattle inserted in the tail ,they also come in slow sinking and Floating version to give our customers the different options,realistic 3d Snake eyes add to the look of this Very Cool Snake lure,they have a crazy tail action when worked properly with the extra weight of the rattle in the tail.
    1 point
  7. Well first off let me say that the reason I got into jig/Tackle making in the first place was to find a way to make a better quality jig. I was buying these jigs from a local tackle shop and they just wouldn't hold up. I broke several of those saltwater jigs and at $18 a pop I wasn't happy. But the ones I build hold up and work great. So a key aspect for me is the pride I have in making the best jig I can make. And the best jigs have properly cured powder paint. I guess for me it is the pride I have knowing I put my best effort into it. I'll know I didn't do the best I could and that would bother me. Also If the paint on one ever did fail and the jig was working well I would not want to be wishing I had cured that killer jig that now isn't catching as well because the paint is flaking off. Like I said when I buy tackle I don't buy whats cheap I buy what works and is of good quality. I don't buy jigs that have paint in the line tie eye. Not ever going to happen no matter how well that jig works for others. Same for other issues of quality like uncured powder paint. If I knew jig A was Cured and jig B was not I would everything else being equal I would pay the higher price for A every time. Knowing that whoever made that jig put more time and effort into making their product better. They showed that they cared about quality. Besides It really isn't that much more in cost or hassle. Especially since I make so many large saltwater jigs that MUST be cured to hold up for more than a couple hours. SO I have the jig racks and toaster oven anyway so why not cure my small jigs as well? I guess I just put more pride into my tackle making and that makes me happy knowing that. Like I said use what works for you and what makes you happy.
    1 point
  8. I dip my brush in DA and shake a few drops in the mix to do 3 bass baits mostly because I want to thin the epoxy for a little thinner coating when working in a cool garage. It also extends the work time by a minute or two. After years of epoxying I've decided 3 baits on a batch of D2T was all that can be comfortably done before the mix begins to thicken, regardless of adding DA. Why push it, get in a rush and screw something up after all that work building them?
    1 point
  9. If your using the Wicked line of paints they recommend W200 transparent base at the link below. They also show their line of reducers on the same page. It's my opinion that your better off using the additives (reducers, transparent base, etc.) that have been formulated for the companies own line of paints since they know what goes in them. I can't give you any help with the UV product, but would imagine that you could contact the folks at Createx and they would be more than happy to advise you what would work with their lines of paint. good luck, Ben
    1 point
  10. With a 8 or 9 inch blank for scale-
    1 point
  11. Hi folks,for anyone interested I managed to come up with a sled/jig that gives me adjustment for width,angle and by raising /lowering blade also depth of slot. This gives me the range of angles I need but could be adapted for more. I haven't added anything to clamp the blank down, but down several tests just holding in position and so far so good. Here's some pics and thanks for letting me bounce some ideas about, .....glider
    1 point
  12. The only auto clears I've used were two part that had to be mixed at a 4/1 resin to catalyst ratio. If you mixed enough to dip lures in you would be wasting a LOT of clear coat. Ben
    1 point
  13. Curtis here's another tidbit. This is what works for me. I finally settled on this method a couple of years ago. It has helped me reduce the amount of jigs I carry and gives me the option of customization on the spot. Personally I have settled on 2.5 tabs for 90% of my fishing. Secondly, I do a full bodied skirt on all jigs now using the 2.5 tabs! Somedays the bass want bulkiness other days they want finesse. You never know until they tell you. By making my jigs full bodied from the get-go, if they want that great, good to go. If not, I turn the jig upside down let the outer layer fall down over the head and cut it off with a pair of scissors. Wallah!I now have a finesse jig. Always best to have too much skirt than too little. You can always trim down as much as you need. And as for trimming buy yourself a pair of hair thinning scissors. I have a pair that stay in my boat at all times. They do not cut evenly, leaving your skirt a ragged uneven look. This is what you want. Here's the same jig in the pic both were tied full bodied. The latter pic was shortly after I gave him a haircut with the thinning scissors turning him finesse style. Hope this may help.
    1 point
  14. No better way in my opinion. Make sure you have an explosion proof motor on you booth so you don't have a fire! And wear a good mask. I have used automotive poly from Napa auto parts for years. Its local and cheaper than most. My racks can hold up to 48 baits and sits or hangs inside the booth. The racks and booth will accommodate baits as long as 16" Dries in 15-20 mins. or quicker with a little heat.
    1 point
  15. Have been using lurecraft 500 for dipping tubes"which we like salt water plastic"Tougher for cutting tube tails" the best out their,Our two cents."for what it is worth. $62 a gallon ouch!!,Will alwayes keep a few gallon's on hand.We use these tubes on the border water's of canada"Zup's" always catch a few pike and walleye.fishing for smallmouth.By request for our friend's .Tried lure works cheaper"liked the price. but did not like. the plasticTares the tails when cutting"liked baitjunkies price and plastic!! but have to mix plastic to get what we wanted. bought some MF salt water love it love the price!Great for tubes !!!.No mixing use right out of the jug!!Just ordered several gallon's from MF. Fast Service,good folks to deal with .ordered some 464 a little cheaper than the salt water 40 dollars a gallon.Not trying to sell,not my sponsor.Just our two cents.Hope this helps.
    1 point
  16. Seems like a good solution to me Gliders. With all your blanks starting off with square corners a simple 90 degree cut at the appropriate angle in the block would guarantee repeatable results. Making the angled block one piece would also help ensure consistency. A simple spring clamp would work as a mean of attaching the work piece to the sled keeping things simple. Nice work. Ben
    1 point
  17. There is one advantage spraying has over brushing that I have found. With spraying you don't have to worry about bubbles in the top coat. For whatever reason I would occasionally end up with small bubbles when brushing a top coat. Most of the time these could be dealt with IF these tired old eyes saw them. So far I have not had to deal with bubbles in the top coat on any of the baits that were sprayed. Not sure why it happens, but sometimes one persons techniques don't work as well for someone else. Sometimes it could be something as simple as a difference in atmospheric conditions such as humidity levels. For example, when spraying DN I place my baits on a lure turner to cure. Bob has had adverse reactions in the form of paint wrinkling when placing DN covered baits on a lure turner. For some reason I don't have this problem. It could be that spraying ends up with a thinner coating than brushing so the DN doesn't stay in a liquid state as long on the sprayed baits. Staying in a liquid state for a longer period of time possibly gives the DN longer to react with the paint. Maybe it's a combination of heat and humidity. I'm not a chemist so this is only a guess on my part, but my procedure works for me just like Bob's works for him even though while using the same materials we apply them in a different manner. This is what some people fail to understand when asking for solutions to problems they're having. I don't know of anyone at TU who would intentionally mislead someone when it comes to answering lure building questions. It all boils down to the fact that there is no ONE way to build a lure. If there was only one way to do things it would get pretty boring around here and instead of a lure building forum TU would be boiled down to a list of rules. Every builder that has been around for a while knows EXACTLY how expensive it can get when trying different materials and techniques, but sometimes this is necessary to find out what works best for you. Ben
    1 point
  18. Jon Barlow has done a lot of work to find suitable alternative hooks and lists the hooks that fit each mold on his website. It's a really nice resource. Thanks Jon!
    1 point
  19. I use DN MCU too, and wanted a method that was similar to dipping without exposing my unused finish to ambient moisture. Spraying didn't appeal to me so using a soft brush, I just quickly flood coated the lures and hung them up to dry and drip the excess off the tails. Takes only a few seconds to do. It works fine and there's only a brush to clean up afterward. There is a little wasted finish from what drips off the lures, but no more than if I were dipping the lures directly in the MCU. Several TUers dip in KBS Diamond Coat MCU and say it's less sensitive to moisture contamination. My feeling is "why spray if you don't need to?" It's no faster and you don't have to worry about thinning the MCU, or about adjusting a spray gun or airbrush. If I were doing 30-50 lures a day, I'd probably just dip them in Dick Nite just like he does for his factory baits. You'd be using up the finish quickly enough that moisture contamination probably wouldn't be a problem. Jmho
    1 point
  20. Use this web site to play with mixing colors. It was shared just a few days ago on this website I think. This tool needs the 6 digit HEX value in this case #e8cf7c. You can also just click and play. http://trycolors.com/colors/e8cf7c/ It is set up to take you to the color that is close to the one that you are looking for. As a starting point try 5 parts yellow, 1 part Magenta, 1 part blue, 4 parts white. You can get small apps for any operating system and phones that allow you to move a cursor around your screen and measure the color under the cursor. Most tools will give you the RGB (red,green,blue) value of the color that is displayed on the screen. This next tool will convert RGB TO HEX, the HEX value is used with the link above to get the mix formula. http://www.rapidtables.com/web/color/RGB_Color.htm Keep in mind the color displayed on screen might be very different than intended color because of any miss adjusted equipment in the long path from source to your screen. Have fun!
    1 point
  21. This is what I have at the minute guy's , not to scale. The adjustment would be by moving back block with angle blocks attached using bolt and slot possibly, and maybe stops for different width slots. I know the right hand angleblock not strictly necessary but it would give support and ensure repeatability. This is just 1 option I came up with and does not include any means of angle adjustment or fixing to sled ,nor does it include a means of clamping blank to jig yet If necessary. Interested to hear any thoughts ,(was thinking Vman might have an opinion but he seems to have went soft !)
    1 point
  22. Lol, I'm an idiot. If you weigh the resin on a scale, you can simply reuse over and over the graduated cup you have now to measure the micro balloons.. craig
    1 point
  23. I cast with a teflon pin, remove the pin to store the head till I'm ready to paint, reinstall the pin for painting, remove the teflon pin and wipe clean as soon as the jig is painted. I cure my paint without having a pin installed and have never had to drill a hole out to install a weed guard! Hope that helps!
    1 point
  24. I agree Mark, a gifted lure designer for sure. I designed a similar bait to the above for a customer. He wanted the lure to sink level and have four easy to adjust at the manufacture stage for four rates of sink. This was a difficult design problem involving density and buoyancy calculations. I did solve the problem, and then I saw Ken's solution, The two were vertically identical. So I presume Mr H went through the same design process. As for the tail patent; it is basically a glorified paddle-tail formed to resemble a real fish tail. It spills off a Kármán vortex street which causes the tails' movement, the same as it does on a paddle-tail. There is no innovation here and I believe the same idea was used before the patent was issued. The guy knows lures well, but the fact that he drew the vortex diagram totally wrong, tells me that he knows little about vortex theory, and to call the tail a 'vortex tail' without understanding how vortices work, is a bit rich. MrHuddleston's extensive lure designing abilities are not in question, certainly not by me. Dave
    1 point
  25. You got me brother lol. I hate messing with electrical things. Don't know anything about your point, but that dimmer switch thing came to mind. I would think an electrical supply company would have something that wold work. You should have seen me trying to wire a train layout! Lights the size of a grain of wheat, counting how many there were and figuring out what resister to get.....no thanks! Glad my Daughter married an electrician last April!
    1 point
  26. I'd apply the same reasoning as Dauds to all of the details of bait making. There's nothing worse than building a bait that turns out to be a great one, then being unable to replicate it because you forgot where exactly you put the ballast weights, or what the finished bait weighed, or the angle you used on the lip, etc etc etc. and if you build more than one model bait, you WILL forget. I take detailed notes on every batch of baits I make and make frequent use of a digital scale, starting with cutting out the blank and finishing with the type of topcoat I use. And I note what I think about how the bait performs afterward. It will show you the way to improving your baits and how to replicate the good ones - and how to avoid making not so good ones!
    1 point
  27. smooth on mold star 30
    1 point
  28. Lure Craft has tons of open pour swimbait molds. http://lurecraft.com/
    1 point
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