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I have started receiving complaints from TU members about business owners, tackle supply retailers, lure parts companies and others spending time here in the forums with a single motive; selling TU members their goods or services. This message serves as notice to everyone that this will STOP here and now! TU is not a venue for ANYONE to spend time hanging out here, trying to sell their products to people. It is a place where people come to learn from other lure makers. Any company who has people here and is actively soliciting TU members, be forewarned that your accounts are in danger of being permanently banned! I don't take this lightly and you shouldn't either! So if you happen to be one of those people who has been becoming more active here for the sole purpose of trying to reel in new customers, put an end to it now. If you want to share your knowledge with others without mentioning your company and without offering to "help" them with their problem by offering to sell them something, then feel free to continue to to participate here. I will be keeping a close eye on this and TU members will also be watching and if they see anything going on that is outside of these guidelines, it will be passed along to me. Once again, accounts of guilty parties will be permanently banned if this continues after today!

At a friend's school, a young lady investigated resistance to nail polish chipping as part of a science project. Below are the images of her presentation. I was impressed and though I would bring the findings to you guys for some professional feed back; which brand do you think is best? Dave

In the distant past I used to make rod grips from champagne corks, it's easy and nearly as good as the store bought grips (better then factory grips) - sound's stupid I know but at the price of cork here - believe me like everywhere else, Portugal is a long way from here, it's really worth making your own -------------------- Plus, making anything rather than buying it, for me is priceless????. As a lot of you would know it's a heap of work making a tutorial, so is anyone interested ??? The 'Melbourne Cup' is on in 2 weeks, so there will be heaps of Champagne, drunk women, and free cork (grips) round here - AND I am about to make my first rod in 20 years, cause I am sick of waiting for one I ordered 2 months back - Pete

Inconclusive, no muskies were used in the testing! Just kidding, nice comparison.

They swim with the hook in a vertical position (with the line tie at the front of the hook where the screw hitchhiker keeper is)

Hi , folks , Just made this video this morning , ......thought that I would share it in here , too . This is how I like to pimp my plastic grub and shad lures(though I do not pour my own) , ...a jigspinner often gives them the edge over "ordinary" plastics on leadheads . Greetz , diemai

Not necessarily. If I'm adding glitter or some sort of shimmer medium to the top coat the rotation on the lure turner can sometimes have the effect of throwing the glitter etc. to the outer edge of the top coat, particularly with thinner epoxies like e-tex, so I'll start with the glitter coat and then 8 hours later add a second clear coat. This might not be a problem on very slow spinning drying wheels. My motor is from a BBQ rotisserie and does a about 6 RPM (from memory). However, for totally clear baits I let them cure completely between coats. This is because if I do get some fish eyes occurring I can't be sure how bad the oil/dust/whatever contamination is and I wipe them down with alcohol after the first coat of epoxy. I usually end up doing 3 coats. Dont be nervous if the first or even the second coat dont look perfect just make sure you've brushed epoxy everywhere and the coats will build up.

Lower air pressure, thinner paints, finer consistent pigments (higher end paints), and a clean brush/needle. Working closer to the bait will also help but you need good control of your brush and low pressure. Stencils and working on at times technique in regards to angles you are spraying at will also help.

They look really good to me. I think those are definitely the eyes I will go with next as they just look better that most of the ones I have sourced from other places. I don't see the price as that bad either if I consider my time in making a bait.

I just looked at it. Long thin tails like that are sometimes hard to fill. Its not a matter of venting, but a matter of the fact that such a small strand of plastic doesn't carry much heat and the aluminum sucks it away to fast. People think of heat as temperature, but heat is energy, and a small volume of plastic (the cross section of that strand) will have less energy than a larger cross section of plastic like the body. Possible Partial Solutions: Opening up the vents might allow it to fill faster which might allow it to fill before the energy is all drained away, but then there is more likelihood of flashing up the vents. Running the plastic at a higher temperature nearer the scorch temperature might help fill because there will be more energy packed into that tiny cross section and the amount of surface contact between the aluminum and the plastic remains the same. It will take longer for the thick body to cool before you can demold. Getting the mold very hot before injecting might helps as there would be less difference in temperature and less potential to sink energy away. It will take longer for the thick body to cool before you can demold. Filling faster might help, but I have no idea what a Jacobs pot is capable of. Just for S&G have you tried hand injecting it? Really fast filling molds creates a fairly high shock pressure as the mold reaches capacity and often they flash worse. Kind of like shock breaking heavy braided line when you set the hook on a stump. If you get it figured out let us know.

What temperature, Nubs are usually to cold.

Call clear bags

I know this is an old topic, but I thought I would share my story: Just started building a coupla months ago, but quickly noticed the price and quality of cork grips and cork rings sucks. So, I bought 400 champagne corks off etsy.com for less than $50. See my first attempt attached. My intention was to sand down the irregularities, but I've decided to leave as is. The grip feels like a dream.

That is a great idea! It's on my project list for today!!! I'm going to use wire wrap, and coat with super glue. Just try not to get the hooks too hot, or they will lose their temper and soften.

I want to remind everyone that photos uploaded to ANY of the galleries here at Tackle Underground should not be explicit or crude. During the past few days we have had at least two different images uploaded for the contest that depicted male and female genitals and/or intimate body parts. This is NOT acceptable content. Some users reported this content and it has been removed, and rightfully so. These forums and this community are here for the good and education of everyone, regardless of whether they are 14 or 74, or even older than 74. Material should be posted with that in mind, keeping it clean and family-friendly. Parents have enough to worry about what their kids are seeing on the internet. Viewing images in a fishing tackle forum should not be one of those things they have to worry about. Your help with sticking to these guidelines is appreciated, and this will be enforced, going forward. Infractions of this type will result in warnings being issued. Thanks for your cooperation.